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I need LOTS OF HELP!

I bought a mech mod. I don't want an RDA because of all the work. What would be a good sub-ohm tank that I could use on my mech mod? I already hard shorted a battery and it vented. Don't want it to happen again, please help.
 

5150sick

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Throw the mech mod away right now after taking the battery out.
The mech mod is broken
.
 

RBVapes

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Agreed, with good high-powered regulated devices available for <$50 I don't see the point in taking chances with a mechanical!
 

CorallineAlgae

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I bought a mech mod. I don't want an RDA because of all the work. What would be a good sub-ohm tank that I could use on my mech mod? I already hard shorted a battery and it vented. Don't want it to happen again, please help.
It can be very dangerous to use subohm tanks with many mechanical mods. Some mech mods are fine to use with them while others can cause the battery to explode. Even if the one you have does work well with a subohm tank, mechanical mods aren't a good match for them. Regulated mods (like a Coolfire or VTC Mini) will always be safer and give you lots more options. Mechs are used by drip vapers who (hopefully) really understand what they are doing. It's difficult to make a dangerous error on a regulated device but it's pretty easy on a mech. Please consider switching to a regulated mod.
 
If I was to keep the mech, what type of atomizer would I get? Is a hybrid the one where the atomizer connects directly to the battery, if so then yes, I got a hybrid. Thanks for the help
 

Whiskey

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You really sound like your not very versed yet with Mech mods and tanks, and not knowing what a hybrid topper is , is even more dangerous. take the time to research about the vape gear before using theses types, or better yet , get yourself a Variable voltage set up to start off with. Just some friendly advice :)
 

smacksy

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If I was to keep the mech, what type of atomizer would I get? Is a hybrid the one where the atomizer connects directly to the battery, if so then yes, I got a hybrid. Thanks for the help
Run any RDA you like, as long as it has a protruding pin...I recommend not usig a hybrid mech but if you must use one make sure the RDA has a pin that sticks out at least 2mm or so to be safe..(protrudes)if not, the batt can hard short and go BOOM!..vape safe!

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

forza

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Seriously. This literally just happened to me. Like 2 days ago. I have mods and mechs. Didn't realize a hybrid was all that different. Nearly BLEW my hand off when I fired it.

Please be safe. I went over to my local vape shop and a very nice young man who looked about 12 to my really old eyes explained my new mod to me in depth. For several hours. It was very informative and he was very nice.

If you don't want to deal with the work of rda's you have two choices. Buy a regulated mod. There are many that are not expensive. Get an rda that works with your hybrid mech and take it to a vape shop. They will put a build on there for you and make sure you use it safely.

It's really not that much work tbh. I thought making my own coils would be a long and time consuming experience but after several builds I can knock one out in 5 or 6 minutes.
 
Thank you guys so much. You've been very helpful. I've decided to get an RDA. Which one should I get for a good price and a good base. I know flavor and vapor production depends on the build, so what should I get for cotton, organic Japanese, or something else? Also, any specific type of wire?
 

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raymo2u

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Ohm Meter, Ceramic Tweezers, Pliers, Coil Jig/Precision Screwdriver Set and some Flush/Angle Cutters
These are the main tools you will need for rebuilding.
 

forza

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Ohm Meter, Ceramic Tweezers, Pliers, Coil Jig/Precision Screwdriver Set and some Flush/Angle Cutters
These are the main tools you will need for rebuilding.
Or really, on a budget, an ohm meter, regular tweezers, nail clippers and a small Phillips head screwdriver (that tend to come with the rda you buy).

My builds aren't super magnificent or special, but their functional and safe.
 

raymo2u

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Or really, on a budget, an ohm meter, regular tweezers, nail clippers and a small Phillips head screwdriver (that tend to come with the rda you buy).

My builds aren't super magnificent or special, but their functional and safe.
Pliers and Precision Screwdrivers, and Flush cutters can be had for $6 together at Walmart, Ohm Meter can be gotten on Ebay for $10 (Semi Accurate), and Ceramic Tweezers from Ebay or FastTech can be had for $-$5....Thats budgeting and when he continues to grow he wont really need to buy anything.

That little blue screw driver sucks ass, My fingers are far too big to fumble with something that small, it also makes it much harder to tighten down anything as there is much less leverage. You can use the Precision Drivers as a Coil Jib but a Kuro Coil winder set is $3....not crazy by any means...

Ive maybe spent $30 total in tools since Ive started vaping and I havent bought a Coilmaster anything, Ive sourced cheap tools that do the job but Ive also found certain cheap tools break constantly and others can do the job better for a dollar or 2 more.
WorkBench.jpg

Precision Screw Drivers (Cheap and Sizes are Labeled)-$1 Walmart
Pliers (Needle nose and Normal-$1 Walmart
Ohm Meter (Semi Accurate)-$5.55 HERE
Flush Cutters-$8.69 HERE (The ones in the pic, blue handles, Ive broken 3 pairs, buy these instead...)
Thread Nippers (Better then Scissors)-1.32 HERE
Ceramic Tweezers(Get Round Nose)-$3.25 HERE
Kuro Coiler (Optional)- $6.99 HERE
Thats less then $20 for the Main Tools you will use for Building and Wicking...


I build "Fancy Coils" yes, but these tools will make anyone who rebuilds job easier and without killing their wallets. When people do end up going above and beyond looking for a warmer experience they will already have the tools to start with. Fancy coils or not these are the tools that you will up needing for rebuilding.
 
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forza

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I'm still a beginner and I use just regular 24g Kathal (about $4.00 for 100m) and organic cotton not necessarily Japanese.
 

CorallineAlgae

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For wire I highly recommend going with 26 & 24 gauge 316L stainless steel. It can be used in normal watt mode or in temp control on many newer mods. It's the most versatile wire option vapers have. Depending on how you like to vape and your gear, 28 gauge SS may also be useful.

Most people use Japanese organic cotton. Muji & Koh Gen Do are the most popular brands. I like both.

For juice it really depends on what kinds of flavors you like. For low cost juice, Vaping Watch has a line called Tmaxx No Frills Mils that has some first rate flavors for $6 per 30ml bottle.
 

raymo2u

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For wire I highly recommend going with 26 & 24 gauge 316L stainless steel. It can be used in normal watt mode or in temp control on many newer mods. It's the most versatile wire option vapers have. Depending on how you like to vape and your gear, 28 gauge SS may also be useful.

Most people use Japanese organic cotton. Muji & Koh Gen Do are the most popular brands. I like both.

For juice it really depends on what kinds of flavors you like. For low cost juice, Vaping Watch has a line called Tmaxx No Frills Mils that has some first rate flavors for $6 per 30ml bottle.
Im slowly working my way trying more things with SS wire, just gotta grab some more gauges and then I may try crazy TC builds...
 

CorallineAlgae

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Im slowly working my way trying more things with SS wire, just gotta grab some more gauges and then I may try crazy TC builds...
It's so good. I still like vaping in normal power mode on an RDA but for everything else it's SS in temp mode. Looking forward to hearing about your crazy TC builds. I've been sticking with completely normal builds lately. The only thing I occasionally do with SS is twist up 28 gauge. Everything else is basic 24 or 26 gauge spaced coils, either 316L or 304. So good. Can't wait for the 316L Clapton wire to get delivered. Hopefully it'll be here this week.
 

raymo2u

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It's so good. I still like vaping in normal power mode on an RDA but for everything else it's SS in temp mode. Looking forward to hearing about your crazy TC builds. I've been sticking with completely normal builds lately. The only thing I occasionally do with SS is twist up 28 gauge. Everything else is basic 24 or 26 gauge spaced coils, either 316L or 304. So good. Can't wait for the 316L Clapton wire to get delivered. Hopefully it'll be here this week.
Ive got some SS Coilheads, they taste great but slightly cooler then I enjoy on these, Im hoping a nice Fused Clapton in SS will be much more my style..As long as I can keep the resistance high enough it should be good!
 

JERUS

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SS heats up noticeably faster than Kanthal. I love it for simple builds (Pretty much always just slap together a twisted build lately) but I imagine if you're trying to sub SS in for Kanthal in a build that's already running <.2Ω it won't end well.

Works fantastic for me, twisted 26g, sometimes I'll Helix it with 32g Kanthal but not always, about 5 wraps and I'm right around that .2Ω mark I like for my Haze.
 

raymo2u

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SS heats up noticeably faster than Kanthal. I love it for simple builds (Pretty much always just slap together a twisted build lately) but I imagine if you're trying to sub SS in for Kanthal in a build that's already running <.2Ω it won't end well.

Works fantastic for me, twisted 26g, sometimes I'll Helix it with 32g Kanthal but not always, about 5 wraps and I'm right around that .2Ω mark I like for my Haze.
You can make the same builds with thinner wire, they wont be any less crazy but the resistance can be much higher. 24g 316L SS reads slightly less resistance then 22g Kanthal so If I were to make a 2x22K/36N80 Fused Clapton I would step it down to 2x26SS /40N60. The outer wrap doesnt register on Devices or the resistance readers in our intended range so they are not contributing factor, the core wire is the only material that matters with advanced coils.
Basically I would be using a 26g SS Parallel which isnt unheard of, its also a good thing I have order pending for a hOhm Wrecker G2 :)
 

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