.07 is way too low for a parallel box. You would want either a triple or quad parallel box for that, but even then, it's more current than you probably want flowing through the circuit. You're looking at resistance low enough to be considered a short.
Theoretically, a good pair of 30A batteries could handle it. It just isn't considered wise because you leave yourself no safety margin. They will fail if anything goes wrong such as a short in the device or a battery giving out. Straining them repeatedly can reduce their capacity and increase overall operating temperature pretty quickly - they can only withstand that for so long... ...and how long is "too long" is impossible to know without taking measurements..
Electrically, there are a lot of variables that you can't account for, as well... ...all sorts of things that would be minute under normal circumstances become a big deal when super-subbing. They're the sorts of things that you won't see in the numbers. Electricity and chemistry can do some funny things when you have a largely unimpeded current flow coming from a lithium battery.
I really doubt that the gains are worth it, either. After a certain point, you're losing a lot of power to battery sag (the more current gets pulled, the more voltage you lose.) The actual wattage you see will be much lower than calculated, meaning that the coil is actually choking for power compared to a smaller, lower-current one, which is receiving more power per unit of mass.
Now, as the voltage drops, current does too (perhaps even to acceptable levels,) but that's no longer the issue. The resistance is so low that calling it a short isn't an exaggeration. The current drops because the battery is actively being being ripped wide open. They aren't meant to toss current without something significantly restricting that current flow in front of them. Things get rather unstable and volatile when your load is too close to the internal resistance of the battery itself.
And that's not to mention that the mass of the coil simply becomes too much for the space it is in - it starts retaining unacceptable amounts of heat. All of that heat has to go somewhere and ideally should move as quickly as possible so that it doesn't accumulate from hit to hit. As the coil grows larger, it takes longer for the heat to dissipate. The bulk of it creeps into your mod, where it stays for a good while.
And that's a factor too. High current isn't the only cause of venting. It's really the heat. Batteries vent when their operating temperatures go beyond a certain point, so pulling a lot of current from batteries in a hot enclosure increases the likelihood of a catastrophic failure. A battery's CDR is largely determined by what temperature is reached with such and such load placed on it. Just below the current level that makes the battery too hot is its max CDR.
There are better ways to get that kind of power, just not with that wire and that mod. Super-subbing is arguably the worst way to go about it because of the risks involved and the performance loss from working your batteries much harder than they're meant to. If you just wanna knock on the door of 200w, a .35 build on a series mod will just get you there for just 25 amps of current, which at least leaves you with SOME headroom. It's a truer 200w than regulated 200w, which are PWM.
Of course, you'll have to use wire that has a higher resistance... ...and a lot more of it. But it will perform much better. With thinner wire, you can squeeze in a ton of surface area for that heat to distribute across and it will have less mass, meaning it heats up AND cools down quicker. It's also more power efficient, meaning the returns you see on each watt will be increased.
If you wanna go stupid high-power, go for a quad-battery series-parallel mod. Two series pairs wired in parallel, meaning double voltage AND double headroom. A well-made one can actually get you beyond where you can get super-subbing and do so safely. You can really go crazy with it. A .2 will yield 350w for 42A. Wouldn't recommend that at all, but the capability is there.
All that being said, I wouldn't recommend using either of those without a good bit of experience and knowledge under your belt. It's important that you know exactly how everything shakes down. Don't take this the wrong way, but if you have to ask these questions, then you probably aren't ready to be messing around with any of this stuff. Stick to what you know for now. That's the golden rule.
I'm glad you asked instead of just going through with it - that was the right thing to do, but that is nonetheless the truth. These things are important to discuss, but talking about it is one thing...
I have an RX200, and a Cuboid. Both limit me to .1 ohm, the Fuchai will drop to .05, but the one I had died after 3 months so I probably won't do that again.
Regulated devices handle current differently. A .1 on a regulated mod doesn't translate to the same battery load as it would on a mech. Regulated mods run in series and use a buck converter to exchange the extra voltage for current. It only draws as much current from the batteries as it needs to generate the wattage going to the coils.
As an example, let's say you're running a .1 @ 150w on a dual battery regulated box. For it to first generate the power, it will pull just shy of 20A @ 8.4v from the batteries. The buck converter then feeds the atty nearly 40A @ 3.9v. It gives the coil the 40A it needs to run at 150w as per ohm's law, but doesn't take current that the batteries can't handle. This is why you can safely super-sub on a regulated box. It's not drawing as much current as it's dishing out.
