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Is sub-ohming even needed on a regulated device?

conanthewarrior

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Hi people. Hope your all OK.

I am currently running a 1.8 Ohm Single coil in my RDA, as I am waiting for some nautilus coils to arrive (I did remake my own. But during that I lost the piece of metal that stops juice getting in your mouth, this time I will keep it and just rebuild).

Now, I understand building lower was necessary in Mechanical mods to draw more watts from the battery, but in a regulated device you can control that. I have tried turning the watts up on my 1.8 ohm coil, and even that makes a mini fog machine!

So, my question is, is it actually neccessary in a regulated device? The best coil I built for vapour production so far was 1.1 Ohms, not under 1 Ohm. I built many from 0.4 up to 0.9, but this 1.1 thing beat them all.

I know in mech mods sub ohming draws more watts, but what about regulated? Anyone here find better results with a coil that is above an Ohm in their regulated devices?

Would be nice to discuss your preffered coil resistance, see if there is a preference, and what wattage you use them at too.
 
Most of the older VV/VW regulated MODs would not fire below about 1.3 Ω, so it's difficult to make a comparison.
I've made a bunch of low resistance coils for my mechanicals in the past (down to about .3 Ω), and never really liked them for my style of vaping (I like a tighter draw and don't like a real hot vape), so my preferred resistance for the mechs is about 1.1 -1.2 Ω . Yeah, I could blow massive clouds, but the flavor suffered, and I'd fry cotton wicks in no-time, and dry-hits were killing me with the lower resistance coils

I'm just now getting into the world of Temperature Control (bought an Evic-VT recently) and for me it's been a revelation. I can run a .13 - .15 Ω coil for INSTANT response and still not burn the wick, and can dial in my preferred vape temperature. Once you figure out the settings for your sweet-spot , it's a whole new world....problem is, I don't want to go back to my mechs or VW MODs!

JMHO....
 
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conanthewarrior

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Member For 4 Years
Ahh, temp control mods. Are they very good then? I did just quickly build a coil that was dead on 1 Ohm, that was denser than the 1.8 coil I must admit. I need to take my grandfather to the doctors, when I come back I am going to try some more tests.

I can only go down to 0.3 though, which is still pretty low isn't it? I know there is people making 0.09 coils, but they are quite the exception(I expect, I could be wrong as that is essentially a dead short, I wouldn't feel safe going that low. What batteries would be safe for a build that is that low? I use 25R's at the moment( I use them in my torch aswell, I got myself a convoy s2 and its a demon blinder lol, got a mount coming for my bicycle as it is mid sized, takes 1 18650 and on medium it lights up the whole road and I get about 3 hours runtime before low battery blinking starts at 2.9 volts).

What do the super low builders use as batteries? And I guess they use more Mech mods than regulated, I feel unsafe in that world though and feel safer regulated.
 

Nancy_Bout

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I loved vaoong at 1.5 ohms on my kayfun lite!
I need new kanthal wore I stopped trying to build.
It was a beautiful thing lol
I do enjoy sub ohm cause I get flavor and vapor w prebuilt coils.
In my busy little life it's such a convenience and I only started building a few coils.
Only way to improve is to keep at it!
Ordering some 28g now
 

DickyT

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Ahh, temp control mods. Are they very good then? I did just quickly build a coil that was dead on 1 Ohm, that was denser than the 1.8 coil I must admit. I need to take my grandfather to the doctors, when I come back I am going to try some more tests.

I can only go down to 0.3 though, which is still pretty low isn't it? I know there is people making 0.09 coils, but they are quite the exception(I expect, I could be wrong as that is essentially a dead short, I wouldn't feel safe going that low. What batteries would be safe for a build that is that low? I use 25R's at the moment( I use them in my torch aswell, I got myself a convoy s2 and its a demon blinder lol, got a mount coming for my bicycle as it is mid sized, takes 1 18650 and on medium it lights up the whole road and I get about 3 hours runtime before low battery blinking starts at 2.9 volts).

What do the super low builders use as batteries? And I guess they use more Mech mods than regulated, I feel unsafe in that world though and feel safer regulated.

While the 25r's are fantastic batteries. To error on the side of safety, I would not use the same batteries in a torch that I use in my mod. What mod are you running? If it is a 2 battery mod then this is essential. You want the pairs of batteries married and only used together. Also with batteries used for vaping it is safest to not run them below 3.5v.

25r's are fine for .3 builds. I use them and LG HE4 on .2 and .3 builds. With a 20 amp continuous rating on them, they are safe to .20, but I like to not push limits with things that can explode in my hand and face.

I highly advise that you have your set of torch batteries and your set of vape batteries. Even if they are the same make and model, keep them seperate.

The guys going .09 and lower terrify the crap out me. To do this with any degree of safety you want VTC 3,4,5 and real ones. You also want them in a parallel mech, which keeps volts the same but doubles mah and amp capabilities.
 

Eric DeCastro

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'm running a KBOX at .4 ohms it doesn't need to be but I have wanted to have big, long coils so in my orchid, I did dual 28g parallel coils and even with an 11 turn coil (22 toal) it is a tight fit in my orchid. To achieve 1ohm coil setup I would have 40+ turn and would not fit and just take way too long to heat up. I already have to fire it before I inhale just to heat the coils up.

also some people only have one atomizer for two mods one regulated, one mechanical. So you won't have to rebuild when switching mods.
 

GrayVaper

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I'm stuck at .26-.34 sub ohm. I generally get a warm vape, but not too warm. I enjoy tons of flavor and vapor on my Derringer, Mutation X v3 & v4, Vertex v2, etc. when I use my Sig150 I never usually vape over 45 watts. Mostly I use my mechs though.
I just got an MCV Fat Man RDA with a really wide copper drip tip. I'm still trying to find the right build for it. Super wide bore tips take some getting used to.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
While the 25r's are fantastic batteries. To error on the side of safety, I would not use the same batteries in a torch that I use in my mod. What mod are you running? If it is a 2 battery mod then this is essential. You want the pairs of batteries married and only used together. Also with batteries used for vaping it is safest to not run them below 3.5v.

25r's are fine for .3 builds. I use them and LG HE4 on .2 and .3 builds. With a 20 amp continuous rating on them, they are safe to .20, but I like to not push limits with things that can explode in my hand and face.

I highly advise that you have your set of torch batteries and your set of vape batteries. Even if they are the same make and model, keep them seperate.

The guys going .09 and lower terrify the crap out me. To do this with any degree of safety you want VTC 3,4,5 and real ones. You also want them in a parallel mech, which keeps volts the same but doubles mah and amp capabilities.

It is only a single battery regulated device I use, but what are the dangers of using the battery in 2 different devices? I had not heard of this, and not been warned on any of the torch forums (Im on 2) have mentioned any danger either.

I just want to know the real reason, as funnily enough I should have an extra 25R coming through the post today, I could keep that just for the torch if it is really dangerous.
 

conanthewarrior

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Member For 4 Years
I'm stuck at .26-.34 sub ohm. I generally get a warm vape, but not too warm. I enjoy tons of flavor and vapor on my Derringer, Mutation X v3 & v4, Vertex v2, etc. when I use my Sig150 I never usually vape over 45 watts. Mostly I use my mechs though.
I just got an MCV Fat Man RDA with a really wide copper drip tip. I'm still trying to find the right build for it. Super wide bore tips take some getting used to.

Hi grayVaper, if I build that low I always just get burnt tasting, nasty pulls. If I build a little higher, I get nice clouds, they might not win a competition but they are close, and I get the flavour aswell. That is one of my main reasons of vaping, flavour as I don't use nic, clouds come second, and I find it relaxes me( I quit smoking 8 months ago, maybe this reminds my brain of how a ciggarette relaxed me so has the same effect? only guessing)

But my device only goes up to 30 watts, and if I go that low, even 0.5 tastes nasty to me, 0.7 is about the lowest I can go and still genuinely enjoy my vape, this is on an el Cabron RDA, which I think is great with all the different drip tips, but I find I get the most flavour with my thinnest bore drip tip (smaller than the one that comes on the El Cabron, but if I fancy clouds I use the delrin or metal wide bore for fun).
 

zaroba

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
All depends on the wire and wattage.

Yes, you can build a higher ohm coil and get a lot of clouds from them by upping the voltage. But then you run into issues of the coil getting too hot and vaporizing the liquid faster then the cotton can wick it, or cooking the juice too much, or the thin wire breaking. With lower ohm coils, the wires are generally thicker, and these problems are eliminated. The thicker wire wont over heat as easily and can support greater currents without breaking.

My normal setup is 0.14 ohms @ 75 watts on my Sigelei 100.
 

DickyT

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It is only a single battery regulated device I use, but what are the dangers of using the battery in 2 different devices? I had not heard of this, and not been warned on any of the torch forums (Im on 2) have mentioned any danger either.

I just want to know the real reason, as funnily enough I should have an extra 25R coming through the post today, I could keep that just for the torch if it is really dangerous.
With a new 25r coming, keep that one for the vaporizer, not the torch. The current battery has already seen dual duty, so I would run it in the torch.

There is a reason that for dual batt mods we marry the pairs and only use them in the one device they are married for. The reason is safety. Batteries can vent, venting inside a vape can be catastrophic. Being in your hand and at your face, this can get ugly.

When batteries are used dual purpose this chance increases. I don't care what forums and blogs say, all batteries have some type of memory. It may not be a charging memory like NiMH batteries, but it is there. They will adjust to the way the load is pulled from them. Torch being constant, vape being pulse.

Odds are nothing will ever happen on a shared cell if you build safe, but why take the chance? Even in a single unit, if you marry a single battery to your single battery mods, this chance of venting is greatly reduced. And with safe builds, should a battery fail, you will have the time to know something is wrong and drop the damn thing before it gets ugly slip near your face.

Just a reccomendation from a guy that has been playing with various batteries in all types of devices from slow discharge to rapid, for over 35 years.
 
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Pauly Walnuts

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All depends on the wire and wattage.

Yes, you can build a higher ohm coil and get a lot of clouds from them by upping the voltage. But then you run into issues of the coil getting too hot and vaporizing the liquid faster then the cotton can wick it, or cooking the juice too much, or the thin wire breaking. With lower ohm coils, the wires are generally thicker, and these problems are eliminated. The thicker wire wont over heat as easily and can support greater currents without breaking.

My normal setup is 0.14 ohms @ 75 watts on my Sigelei 100.
Exactly.
Under very few circumstances will my builds ever go above .7, and most are under .5. Why, because I prefer 24-22 gauge nichrome.
28-30gauge kanthal is dead to me, so low ohms are the result.
 

zaroba

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
There is another aspect to low ohm vaping as well.

Some people may find thinner gauges (26, 28, 30) too delicate to work with and prefer the thicker gauges, and thus often use low ohm builds.
Some people may find thicker gauges (20, 22, 24) too hard to work with and prefer the thinner wire, and thus often use high ohm builds.
 

Pauly Walnuts

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There is another aspect to low ohm vaping as well.

Some people may find thinner gauges (26, 28, 30) too delicate to work with and prefer the thicker gauges, and thus often use low ohm builds.
Some people may find thicker gauges (20, 22, 24) too hard to work with and prefer the thinner wire, and thus often use high ohm builds.
I personally dont mind how the wire wraps, I go where the max flavor is. 24-22ga nichrome 80 is where the flavor is using most rda's and my lemo2. 28ga nichrome for the protank and kayfun.
 

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