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Is this a rta/rba/rda?

RatRacer

a touch oɟɟ
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It's a tank, that takes coils.
If it has a rebuildable coil, then that's the RBA. (premade coil housing to build in)
RTA: rebuildable tank atomizer (no premade coils)
RDA: rebuildable drip atomizer
 

Markw4mms

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The part of it with the eliquid tank is fine, the other is a big no-no in the board, though.
 

John Starz

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yea I'm talking about the one for Eliquid, I have no use for the other tank, sounds like its an RBA. ty guys for the input
 

John Starz

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It's a tank, that takes coils.
If it has a rebuildable coil, then that's the RBA. (premade coil housing to build in)
RTA: rebuildable tank atomizer (no premade coils)
RDA: rebuildable drip atomizer
ty for the info
 

HondaDavidson

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RBA stands for Rebuildable Base Atomiser.. This type includes the Genesis tanks, RTA tank like Kayfun ect , RDA drippers and the clearomisers with a rba head. Basically anything without premade coilheads.

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gtrovil

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I thought RBA was simply Re-Buildable Atomizer. But ok.

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Rabbit Slayer

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then I suppose you didn't bother looking at the tank for Eliquid. I can care less for the other tank it came with, serves me no purpose.
I did and it is NOT a rebuildable anything it is just a subΩ tank
 

Scratch88683

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then I suppose you didn't bother looking at the tank for Eliquid. I can care less for the other tank it came with, serves me no purpose.
No, it is not a rba. It is not a rta, and it is not a rda.
There's nothing R about it because it's not rebuildable it takes pre built coils. Also the battery it comes with is basically out of date its only 20 watt battery it seems like it's not meant for sub ohming. You should probably do some research on vaping in general...
 

Scratch88683

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I thought RBA was simply Re-Buildable Atomizer. But ok.

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Rba can probably be called both. It's just a broad terms for anything rebuildable I personally don't really use the term I'd just say rta or rda
 

John Starz

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No, it is not a rba. It is not a rta, and it is not a rda.
There's nothing R about it because it's not rebuildable it takes pre built coils. Also the battery it comes with is basically out of date its only 20 watt battery it seems like it's not meant for sub ohming. You should probably do some research on vaping in general...

ty for the info, recently got into all this vaping stuff and with alllll these terms/mods/tanks gets a tad bit confusing, was wondering because the pre built coil I had, I ruined and had to build a new coil with what was it kenthal wire 24g for the .5 Ohms I needed. I read somewhere anything under 1.0 Ohm was considered sub ohm but idk.
 

Scratch88683

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ty for the info, recently got into all this vaping stuff and with alllll these terms/mods/tanks gets a tad bit confusing, was wondering because the pre built coil I had, I ruined and had to build a new coil with what was it kenthal wire 24g for the .5 Ohms I needed. I read somewhere anything under 1.0 Ohm was considered sub ohm but idk.
Yea anything under 1.0 ohm is sub-ohming but what I am saying is a 20 watt mod isn't really meant for it you can still do it but the coils can handle a lot more then 20 watts. For a beginner I would suggest atleast a 40 watt regulated mod if not 100 watts depending on if you think your going to want to start advancing more into the Vape world. You can find out a lot of information on these forums or just ask and I'm sure someone will help you no matter what your question may be.
 

HondaDavidson

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Yea anything under 1.0 ohm is sub-ohming but what I am saying is a 20 watt mod isn't really meant for it you can still do it but the coils can handle a lot more then 20 watts. For a beginner I would suggest atleast a 40 watt regulated mod if not 100 watts depending on if you think your going to want to start advancing more into the Vape world. You can find out a lot of information on these forums or just ask and I'm sure someone will help you no matter what your question may be.
For a beginner 20 watts and builds of .8ohm and higher is plenty low enough. Just because all the new stuff today is built to run at levels considered dangerous just 2 years ago. Doesn't mean you need to run at those levels.

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John Starz

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For a beginner 20 watts and builds of .8ohm and higher is plenty low enough. Just because all the new stuff today is built to run at levels considered dangerous just 2 years ago. Doesn't mean you need to run at those levels.

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when re-building my coil I usually just stick with .5 - 1.0 ohms mainly because that's what my mod can handle, but even at these sub ohm levels I still get a good flavor/vapor production. not to sure what the difference is with low watts like vaping at 15 watts compared to others vaping at higher watts like 50. to me wouldn't vaping at those higher watts burn threw more liquid? do you get better flavor and vaper at those high watts/voltage?
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Falls under "non of the above" category and not worth the money.
 

Scratch88683

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when re-building my coil I usually just stick with .5 - 1.0 ohms mainly because that's what my mod can handle, but even at these sub ohm levels I still get a good flavor/vapor production. not to sure what the difference is with low watts like vaping at 15 watts compared to others vaping at higher watts like 50. to me wouldn't vaping at those higher watts burn threw more liquid? do you get better flavor and vaper at those high watts/voltage?
It depends on the vape you like. If you are mouth to lung vaping then you don't even really need to sub ohm. If you are direct to lung with a lot of airflow then you want lower ohms. Yes you will go threw more juice. Most of the tanks being made now are designed for sub ohm. Honestly the best way to start is with one of those ego batteries with the cheap clearomizer and then graduate from there but if you think you are going to stick with vaping I'd skip that step and invest in something good or you will end up wasting money by upgrading slowly. Like when I first started I upgraded like 3 times in a 2 months started with a clearomizer with an ego battery ($20- $30) then I bought a eleaf istick with a goblin mini v1(80$) then I bought a ipv 3 li 200w with a troll rda($140) now all those prices were from my local store if I had bought online it would have been cheaper but I wasted about $110. That's why I'm saying the 20w mods is not very practical with today's vaping unless your just trying to mouth to lung which is not my cup of tea but might be yours. Especially if you are planning on using a dripper 20 watts will not cut it.
 

John Starz

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It depends on the vape you like. If you are mouth to lung vaping then you don't even really need to sub ohm. If you are direct to lung with a lot of airflow then you want lower ohms. Yes you will go threw more juice. Most of the tanks being made now are designed for sub ohm. Honestly the best way to start is with one of those ego batteries with the cheap clearomizer and then graduate from there but if you think you are going to stick with vaping I'd skip that step and invest in something good or you will end up wasting money by upgrading slowly. Like when I first started I upgraded like 3 times in a 2 months started with a clearomizer with an ego battery ($20- $30) then I bought a eleaf istick with a goblin mini v1(80$) then I bought a ipv 3 li 200w with a troll rda($140) now all those prices were from my local store if I had bought online it would have been cheaper but I wasted about $110. That's why I'm saying the 20w mods is not very practical with today's vaping unless your just trying to mouth to lung which is not my cup of tea but might be yours. Especially if you are planning on using a dripper 20 watts will not cut it.
Yea I'm totally a mouth to lung,i rather just skip the first couple of steps and find a mod/tank best suitable for that. tyvm for the reply
 

HondaDavidson

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Scratch has bought into the hype and fell for the propaganda.

I use mechanical mods. Capable of over 80 watts and as low as .2ohm. I rarely build lower than .7ohm. I only go that low if feeling adventurous and do a dual coil. Where I might go as low as .5ohm. I use between 6 and 10 ml a day. I can make a bigger cloud than my SIL. He runs lower ohm and many more watts than me.

Yes running higher wattages on high surface area coil uses more juice. Note i said wattage not ohm. Because it's the watts and amount of metal in the coil not ohms that consume the juice.

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JERUS

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Scratch has bought into the hype and fell for the propaganda.

I use mechanical mods. Capable of over 80 watts and as low as .2ohm. I rarely build lower than .7ohm. I only go that low if feeling adventurous and do a dual coil. Where I might go as low as .5ohm. I use between 6 and 10 ml a day. I can make a bigger cloud than my SIL. He runs lower ohm and many more watts than me.

Yes running higher wattages on high surface area coil uses more juice. Note i said wattage not ohm. Because it's the watts and amount of metal in the coil not ohms that consume the juice.

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The bolded can't be said enough. Resistance is important on mechs to get the wattage you need, but on regulated it's not nearly as important as surface area, wicking, and airflow. I have a 1.11Ω setup that rivals my .08Ω setup for clouds and flavor. It's not quite as good but it's very close, enough to prove to me that resistance and wattage isn't what gets the effect, it's far more surface area and composition of coil.
 

Scratch88683

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Scratch has bought into the hype and fell for the propaganda.

I use mechanical mods. Capable of over 80 watts and as low as .2ohm. I rarely build lower than .7ohm. I only go that low if feeling adventurous and do a dual coil. Where I might go as low as .5ohm. I use between 6 and 10 ml a day. I can make a bigger cloud than my SIL. He runs lower ohm and many more watts than me.

Yes running higher wattages on high surface area coil uses more juice. Note i said wattage not ohm. Because it's the watts and amount of metal in the coil not ohms that consume the juice.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
I haven't bought into any hype. I clearly stated it depends on how you vape. If I build a fused clapton at .3 - .7 ohm guess what it will work very poorly at 20 watts. If I build a .7 micro coil yea it will work but I don't use simple coils anymore and a lot of other people don't either. All I am stating is I wouldn't pay $70 for a 20 watt regulated box mod with a shitty sub tank. I would buy something capable of a lot more power because if he ever wants to experiment with anything like claptons or drippers ( and I still run my drippers at around 90 watts even with a .7 micro build) again it depends on what you are looking for. If you want clouds and vapor production with fast ramp up time you want low ohms with high watts. Yes it helps having surface area as well surface area has nothing to do with resistence or watts. But it's fine I'm done with this conversation if you want to run a higher ohm build with 10 watts have fun with that.
 

John Starz

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Learning more about mods i wouldn't pay for that either but I got it for free, I can't really complain. I'm new to all this to. I am wondering if this low wattage has something to do with the harsh taste during inhal. Even with a new coil. Current vaping at 3.8 volts/23.00 watts at .6 ohms. Meh I'm learning as I go, quality of eliquid has something to do with it I'm sure.idk was just a thought. Tyvm guys for your thoughts
 

Neunerball

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Learning more about mods i wouldn't pay for that either but I got it for free, I can't really complain. I'm new to all this to. I am wondering if this low wattage has something to do with the harsh taste during inhal. Even with a new coil. Current vaping at 3.8 volts/23.00 watts at .6 ohms. Meh I'm learning as I go, quality of eliquid has something to do with it I'm sure.idk was just a thought. Tyvm guys for your thoughts
The harsh taste can come from either Nicotine, PG, or the flavors.
 

Neunerball

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tyvm for that info, il try a 1.8% nic next time.
I'd start using a liquid with less PG, rather than Nicotine. However, if you feel like not having a lot of Nicotine craving, you can do that.
 

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