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Just dug out my 'broken' sig 30. It now works.

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
hi people.As you know, mt sig 30 packed up and would not put out over its minimum wattage. I tried everything inside, found a bare wire, covered that in tape, and still no luck.

It just popped into my head you can choose dc-dc or PWM mode. I went into DC-DC mode, and it worked! I then went back to PWM Mode, that also worked. Maybe this reset something in the chip?

My fiancee is sticking to the 50 as is used to is now, but now I have a small, 30 watt device I can also use.

I can't believe I did not try that before. But it is working through the full range now. I hope this lasts, as I like the mini.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
It even works at higher resistances, god knows what happened. My fiancee was lucky-I got her a sig50 as replacement lol! But not having the 30W mini is cool, I like the small size, and if I build higher i can use like 14-16 watts and still get a lovely tasting vape. I think a dual micro coil build is called for tomorrow, I will have the IPV to play with, and the old sig.

The 5 mode memory is annoying though, I go to up the wattage and it goes to the next setting. I have to remember to go DOWN first before going up.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Ok, its back to the grave. worked for about 30 minutes properly, then started outputting low again. I think if I needed a emergency vape that will do the job.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I have made friends with a man who works in a different vaping shop to what I normally use, he phoned me the night I received the D2 to see what I think and that it is working. I think that is great customer service.

He knew every board in every mod, and seemed quite knowledgeable, just this one thing might be wrong.

He said with these chips, they say they can go down to 0.3, and they can, but only for a limited time. If it was used at say 1 ohm and above it would last much longer, and I was using a 0.3 when it stopped working. He said it just seems to fry the chips, most returns they get are with the minis being used at their minimum. I asked if this would effect the sig 75 or the D2, he said it shouldn't as they are designed for TC, so are actually built to go that low.

Could there be any truth in this? We had an hour long chat today, and he is a great bloke. He was testing some "jizzfan" batteries that he received a sample of, I sent him to youtube and said 'ahh. I guess they definitely are not what they claim. I did know more about batteries, which made me quite proud :p, he thought the LG HE2 was a 35 amp battery, I explained it is pulse, but not constant, It is only 20 constant, but as you are using regulated devices it does not really matter and they are fine for that, he was saying mods are now kind of relegated to history, with mods that can go down to 0.1 and even lower, and the safety features, I explained I was getting a mod to use, he said just be careful of shorts and such.

So, is it possible this is what happened to my sigelei 30 mini? It will work for about 30 minutes if I change to dc, vape, then to PWM, it works across the range. But after around 30 minutes, it goes back to minimum output. Slightly annoying as it was a great sized device, I may actually get another due to what it is, a cheap, 30 watt All day vape, that I can use low wattage devices on and get a full days battery. The D2 is doing a fine job of that though at the moment, 14.5 Joules/watts with kanthal using the workaround, battery lasts longer than in the Sig75.
 

Robert B

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
What atty's are you using? Sound like what can happen if the coils are not screwed down tight, or the 510 contact pin on the atty is loose.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
In the real world though, I vape for around 10 minutes an hour. I can continue using it fine. I think it is when it gets warm, something goes wonky in the chip and stops it working. I am using a 0.6 Ohm dual micro coil at 14 watts, and it is great for flavour. It is a great device, with an intermittent problem. But seeing as it only happens after around 30 minutes, and once cool again is fine, I am going to still use it.

So, I currently have 4 Regulated mods I can use. I am currently into trying to get the biggest cloud from the lowest power and flavourchasing.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
What atty's are you using? Sound like what can happen if the coils are not screwed down tight, or the 510 contact pin on the atty is loose.
All differnt attys have the problem, but I have not checked the pin inSIDE the mod. 2 Seconds and I will.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Well, it was a little gunked up, now clean as a whistle(never understood that term. They are covered in bacteria from blowing into it lol). The spring connection is still springy though. I will let you know if this works. If it does I will be very happy, as it only lasted me 3 months, the charging port broke after less than one month!

Lucky I usually charge externally in a nitecore, or `i would of been buggered till I got my next mod ,the sig 150 I beleive as I beleived I needed more power. For cloud chasing I did, but flavours are much more fun, so now the max the sig gets used at is 50 watts, I did use it at 70 with a triple coil build the other day, but the main thing I like is the battery life.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Right, last night I used it for 45 minutes chain vaping to try to replicate the problem. I couldn't.

Today, I am going to push it a bit higher and see if my theory of when it gets warm it cuts out is correct, but for now it is working fine at 5-20 watts.

If I thought it was broken and turns out it was a dirty 510 connection inside, Robert B can slap me lol. That is after I have slapped myself.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I replicated the problem. I used it at 25Watts, problem returned. I simply switched it to DC-DC mode then back to PWM and it is working fine again.

Someting is up with the chip, but when I get the problem just switch modes back and forth once, and that sorts it until it happens again.

I think if I left it in DC-DC mode the issue would not happen. Is there any dangers of using just DC-DC mode instead of PWM on the Sig30 Mini?
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Just to let everyone know, this fix still works. I am using it right now, at 20W with a lemo V2. It hasn't even done the wattage drop today, but when it does, I know how to sort it. I guess my chip has a mind of its own lol.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Oh yeah, I meant to add, I think it always had a problem. It could only ever power a single 26 Gauge wire, now it fires duals fine, with loads of vapour to match. I must of got a bad one out of the batch, pure bad luck really. I just don'e know wether to use it in `dc-`dc mode or leave it in standard PWM. The problem seems to not happen in DC-DC mode.
 

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