Kanger 1.8 dual coil

[blipt]

Ok so I bought a 5 pack today. The first one I tried didn't work out so great so I took it out the second one worked better but tasted burnt after 2 to 3 hits is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?

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[Heather]

What mod are you using? What setting do you have it on? V&W?

 

[blipt]

Itaste clk 1280 and an emow tank set on 3.8v

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[Heather]

Itaste clk 1280 and an emow tank set on 3.8v

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Did you let the coil soak for a while? Put it in and wait about 10 minutes before using it?

 

[blipt]

Negative...primed a few times then let it rip

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[blipt]

It's the wrong coil it has a smaller bore than the original ....oh well I wish people that sold coils @ cloud 9 knew more than they did....

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[Heather]

It's the wrong coil it has a smaller bore than the original ....oh well I wish people that sold coils @ cloud 9 knew more than they did....

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I have not used those coils. I believe that they are the new organic cotton ones (that has the small chimney). I think you have not let the whole coil get soaked before you fired it. That would result in the burned taste. Put a new one in and let it sit like 10 minutes before you use it. IMHO

 

[blipt]

Ok

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[blipt]

No matter what the coils taste like ass I'm bout to just swap over to aspire

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[madmonkey]

Those coils are so hit and miss for those tanks...I bought a 5 pack of them for my Aero Mega and every one of them was garbage...I even let one soak over night and got a dry hit on the second hit....all their QC seems to be going into the subtanks because I've had such better luck with those...you can try poking threw the holes on the sides of the coils to kind of fan out the wick to help it soak faster because the ends of the wick are just pressed up against the holes and it kinda chokes the juice flow...but your best best is rebuilding them if you know how or upgrading to a sub tank or a Nautilus or Atlantis or something like that...sorry you're having such shitty luck...I feel your pain

 

[Angel Cigs]

I agree with madmonkey. It is a hit or mess. May soak it longer and see if the same result. If so contact the vendor.

 

[Whiskey]

Moved to correct area

 

[blipt]

I bought another set this time it was the correct "aero tank" coils the first one burnt up in 2 days on day 3 with second one it's actually working great although my vape has lost all taste Wtf?

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[madmonkey]

I bought another set this time it was the correct "aero tank" coils the first one burnt up in 2 days on day 3 with second one it's actually working great although my vape has lost all taste Wtf?

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I don't say this often...but if the rest of your coils give you as much shit as the past few have I would give up and suggest you get either one of the Subtanks if you want to stay with Kanger and buy a pack of the 1.2 ohm coils so you can use them with your CLK or just buy and Aspire Nautilus or Nautilus Mini and a pack of BVC heads....as much as I've always liked Kanger's stuff because of how easy it is to rebuild and customize the Nautilus BVC coils blows away any of it's comparable counterparts from Kanger (the aerotank, emow, genitank series, evod 2, T3D, protank 3's) If you're not into rebuilding or sub ohm'ing than the Nautilus with BVC heads (not the older style BDC, those were just as much crap as the Kanger's in my humble opinion,) is pretty hard to beat and since they're becoming "older" tech you can usually find BVC nautilus heads for 10 bucks or less for a 5 pack most places online.

Sorry you're having such shit luck with your coils, but I can't say I am surprised. I wish you better luck and happier vaping in the near future

 

[Zamazam]

I agree with Madmonkey, the Nautilus is the way to go with cotton heads, 1.5 Ohm or 1.8 Ohm. The key is to drip a few drops of juice into the top of the coil and then thread it onto the base and atomizer and let sit for 10 minutes. It will be a night and day type of vape with the Nautilus if you get one. I've been vaping going on 5 years and the Nautilus is one of the few standard Ohm tanks I still use on my provari. It simply performs and is not to expensive for replacement heads.

Start at low watts and work your way up. I use mine at 12-15 watts with no burned taste at all.

 

[blipt]

Yea I'm hoping to upgrade the the aspire sub ohm mod....I think that's what it's called it has a battery in the bottom of it. And hopefully along with a rda...the terminology is still new to me.

On a side note I have a fluke meter I use for side electrical jobs it has an ohm meter built in could I use it to ohm out the coils I build

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[BoomStick]

Not sure exactly which aspire mod you're talking about, but tanks usually do better when you have a variable power mod to run them with. Especially tanks that use pre built coil heads.

If your fluke reads ohms to the 1/100th it will be fine. Most multimeters only read to the 1/10th. Not accurate enough for building coils.

 

[blipt]

http://www.aspirecig.com/products/MOD/mod185.html talking about that one

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[Zamazam]

It's a good battery, fixed voltage at 4.19 fully charged. they are inexpensive, but you need an additional charger for them which you will have to purchase.

 

[blipt]

I am honestly debating building my own coils but I don't want the battery to blow up....it's kinda scary I don't want to do it wrong and end up in the ER or at worst my wife collecting the insurance money.

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[BoomStick]

If you check the build with an ohm meter before you use it nothing will blow up. People build their own stuff all the time. Get a regulated mod, good batteries and build within the mods range and you'll be fine.

 

[RobbieR]

I started with a Kanger Emow that used those Dual Coils and I always had problems with them. I was lucky to get 3 or 4 days out of one. I think you would be better off with an Aspire for a Non Sub Ohm tank.

 

[madmonkey]

Yea I'm hoping to upgrade the the aspire sub ohm mod....I think that's what it's called it has a battery in the bottom of it. And hopefully along with a rda...the terminology is still new to me.

On a side note I have a fluke meter I use for side electrical jobs it has an ohm meter built in could I use it to ohm out the coils I build

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I agree with the other's above about getting a little box ohm's checker....fluke meters are awesome and I wish I had one...but if you're model doesn't check ohm's out to the hundreth or more (x.xx or more for example) you still need an ohm's checker...and those are only accurate with in +/- .02 to .04 depending on the model so build at first with that in mind and always build .02 higher than you're shooting for to be safe till you know how accurate your's is for sure to be safe.

The battery you're talking about is the Aspire CF sub ohm battery if I understand you right. Those are good batteries but I've seen reviews on write ups saying that the little regulation chipset in them isn't always the best and the output on them is simular to a mech mod where it starts out around 4.2 and drops the closer you get to needed to recharge the battery. I don't have one so I can't say personally but I thought it was something worth mentioning to keep in mind. I hope you get a better setup that makes you happier soon. Best of luck to yah.