Kanthal Specifications

[Durandal_Curry]

I'm looking to buy some kanthal wire for my Kangertech subtank mini. I've found some online for $10 at the most, bit I've been told by my dad that quality kanthal wire costs around $40 and above. According to him, anything less will break easily and won't last long. He say the overall quality isn't good. What's the price range I should aim for to buy good kanthal wire for my builds?

 

[madmonkey]

Hi @Durandal_Curry and welcome to VU! I am going to go out on a limb and assume you're new to rebuilding and so I have a few questions to ask you to make sure you're ready to even dive into rebuilding...think of it as a safety check list.... Do you have an ohm's checker box or a good multimeter to make sure you can check your resistance and that your screws are tight to the RDA or the pin is tight in a clearo coil if you're rebuilding that and it's not shorting out or the resistance is not jumping all over the place? Do you have the proper high continuous amp drain batteries that are rated to handle you're target resistance and a proper charger for them like an Efest LUC series or an Xtar or something better like a Pila? If the answer is no to any of these questions you need to get these things before you worry about getting wire....crap batteries or a crap charger for them isn't safe and building without an ohm's reader is even more dangerous as well.

If the answer is yes to all of the questions above than the best places to get Kanthal is from Tempco or Lightening Vapes....Tempco is more exspensive but is all American made....you're paying for that...both places have good kanthal and in my opinion they're the best place to get the wire we need from. Here's the links to both of them.

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/search.html?&category=Resistance_Wire&c=0003003 <---tempco
http://lightning-vapes.myshopify.com/collections/all <----Lightening Vapes. also, use the code "LV15" for a discount at checkout

Another thing is needing to understand the basics of ohm's law and battery safety as well as coil wrapping and wicking...the safety aspects are paramount. If you go threw a lot of my other posts you'll see I usually ad a series of links to other threads that myself and other's have wrote pretty much outlining all of the basic info to give you a good knowledge foundation to work from....I am going to do the same here and ask that you take the time and read through them....this isn't the first time I've answered this question and it won't be the last...I am always happy to do so and am grateful I can help and people want to learn things the right way...it's just easier to relink than retype...it took us a long time to figure and write these out and I hope they help you. Also, I am linking an ohm's law calculator and the Steam Engine coil building tool so you can plug in specifications and see how your coil will turn out in theory if you wrapped it in the real world...this is meant to be used as a reference guide to help and is no substitute for a real ohm's meter.

Good luck and please don't hesitate to ask anymore questions along the way. Cheers

http://thelocust.net/ohm/ <----ohm's law calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp <----steam engine coil building tool

and the links below are full of good info every new vapor should know
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138

 

[Durandal_Curry]

Hi @Durandal_Curry and welcome to VU! I am going to go out on a limb and assume you're new to rebuilding and so I have a few questions to ask you to make sure you're ready to even dive into rebuilding...think of it as a safety check list.... Do you have an ohm's checker box or a good multimeter to make sure you can check your resistance and that your screws are tight to the RDA or the pin is tight in a clearo coil if you're rebuilding that and it's not shorting out or the resistance is not jumping all over the place? Do you have the proper high continuous amp drain batteries that are rated to handle you're target resistance and a proper charger for them like an Efest LUC series or an Xtar or something better like a Pila? If the answer is no to any of these questions you need to get these things before you worry about getting wire....crap batteries or a crap charger for them isn't safe and building without an ohm's reader is even more dangerous as well.

If the answer is yes to all of the questions above than the best places to get Kanthal is from Tempco or Lightening Vapes....Tempco is more exspensive but is all American made....you're paying for that...both places have good kanthal and in my opinion they're the best place to get the wire we need from. Here's the links to both of them.

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/search.html?&category=Resistance_Wire&c=0003003 <---tempco
http://lightning-vapes.myshopify.com/collections/all <----Lightening Vapes. also, use the code "LV15" for a discount at checkout

Another thing is needing to understand the basics of ohm's law and battery safety as well as coil wrapping and wicking...the safety aspects are paramount. If you go threw a lot of my other posts you'll see I usually ad a series of links to other threads that myself and other's have wrote pretty much outlining all of the basic info to give you a good knowledge foundation to work from....I am going to do the same here and ask that you take the time and read through them....this isn't the first time I've answered this question and it won't be the last...I am always happy to do so and am grateful I can help and people want to learn things the right way...it's just easier to relink than retype...it took us a long time to figure and write these out and I hope they help you. Also, I am linking an ohm's law calculator and the Steam Engine coil building tool so you can plug in specifications and see how your coil will turn out in theory if you wrapped it in the real world...this is meant to be used as a reference guide to help and is no substitute for a real ohm's meter.

Good luck and please don't hesitate to ask anymore questions along the way. Cheers

http://thelocust.net/ohm/ <----ohm's law calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp <----steam engine coil building tool

and the links below are full of good info every new vapor should know
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138

Thanks bruh

 

[Durandal_Curry]

Hi @Durandal_Curry and welcome to VU! I am going to go out on a limb and assume you're new to rebuilding and so I have a few questions to ask you to make sure you're ready to even dive into rebuilding...think of it as a safety check list.... Do you have an ohm's checker box or a good multimeter to make sure you can check your resistance and that your screws are tight to the RDA or the pin is tight in a clearo coil if you're rebuilding that and it's not shorting out or the resistance is not jumping all over the place? Do you have the proper high continuous amp drain batteries that are rated to handle you're target resistance and a proper charger for them like an Efest LUC series or an Xtar or something better like a Pila? If the answer is no to any of these questions you need to get these things before you worry about getting wire....crap batteries or a crap charger for them isn't safe and building without an ohm's reader is even more dangerous as well.

If the answer is yes to all of the questions above than the best places to get Kanthal is from Tempco or Lightening Vapes....Tempco is more exspensive but is all American made....you're paying for that...both places have good kanthal and in my opinion they're the best place to get the wire we need from. Here's the links to both of them.

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/search.html?&category=Resistance_Wire&c=0003003 <---tempco
http://lightning-vapes.myshopify.com/collections/all <----Lightening Vapes. also, use the code "LV15" for a discount at checkout

Another thing is needing to understand the basics of ohm's law and battery safety as well as coil wrapping and wicking...the safety aspects are paramount. If you go threw a lot of my other posts you'll see I usually ad a series of links to other threads that myself and other's have wrote pretty much outlining all of the basic info to give you a good knowledge foundation to work from....I am going to do the same here and ask that you take the time and read through them....this isn't the first time I've answered this question and it won't be the last...I am always happy to do so and am grateful I can help and people want to learn things the right way...it's just easier to relink than retype...it took us a long time to figure and write these out and I hope they help you. Also, I am linking an ohm's law calculator and the Steam Engine coil building tool so you can plug in specifications and see how your coil will turn out in theory if you wrapped it in the real world...this is meant to be used as a reference guide to help and is no substitute for a real ohm's meter.

Good luck and please don't hesitate to ask anymore questions along the way. Cheers

http://thelocust.net/ohm/ <----ohm's law calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp <----steam engine coil building tool

and the links below are full of good info every new vapor should know
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138

Also, I have an Eleaf iStick 50 watts battery box, not sure if that meets any of those battery requirements.

 

[madmonkey]

Also, I have an Eleaf iStick 50 watts battery box, not sure if that meets any of those battery requirements.

the 50 watt I stick has an internal battery pack that can't be removed...but it meets the requirements...the mod will fire only within is specified resistance range...I can't remember what it's lowest is if it is .3 or .4 ohms...I just wrote that out because I didn't know what kind of mod you have and I would rather give too much information than not enough...especially if someone finds this thread because they have the same questions

 

[IX of XIII]

The minimum for the iStick 50w is 0.3 ohms

 

[madmonkey]

The minimum for the iStick 50w is 0.3 ohms

Thanks...couldn't remember off the top of my head

 

[IX of XIII]

Thanks...couldn't remember off the top of my head

I have 2 of them. I use the 0.3 atlantis v2 coils on my Silo Beast all the time.

 

[madmonkey]

I have 2 of them. I use the 0.3 atlantis v2 coils on my Silo Beast all the time.

I don't have a 50...i play musical mods sometimes with some of the people I've gotten into vaping ....i've used the mini and the 20 and 30, but not the 50...I know some of them had issues so I decided to wait on that one and told my friends to do the same

 

[OBDave]

The minimum for the iStick 50w is 0.3 ohms

I'm running my Arctic at 0.2 on one right now...

 

[Durandal_Curry]

the 50 watt I stick has an internal battery pack that can't be removed...but it meets the requirements...the mod will fire only within is specified resistance range...I can't remember what it's lowest is if it is .3 or .4 ohms...I just wrote that out because I didn't know what kind of mod you have and I would rather give too much information than not enough...especially if someone finds this thread because they have the same questions

My eleaf tells me the ohms.

 

[madmonkey]

My eleaf tells me the ohms.

I know it's got an ohm's reader built it but I was talking about the absolute lowest resistance the device is capable of firing. Also, even though your mod as an ohm's reader built in it's still a good idea to have a ohm's checker box if you're going to be building your own coils because they are more accurate and read in real time and not just as your mod is firing and will help tell you not only what the resistance is but show you if there is a short in some instances...safety features can fail on a mod and you can still have big problems....it's just safer and smarter to have an independent ohm's reader

 

[outwest]

The things I like about temco is that they have annealed kanthal wire, which is way easier to work with, and the wire is clean.

 

[madmonkey]

The things I like about temco is that they have annealed kanthal wire, which is way easier to work with, and the wire is clean.

I agree. I like Tempco, I pay more to get my wire from them...I think it's just better wire...they only time I go to Lightening Vapes for wire is when they have something out of stock and I don't want to wait six weeks for it so I'll buy a small roll from them....and then I haven't even used the last one I bought more than twice

Not all wire is created equal for sure

 

[IX of XIII]

I don't have a 50...i play musical mods sometimes with some of the people I've gotten into vaping ....i've used the mini and the 20 and 30, but not the 50...I know some of them had issues so I decided to wait on that one and told my friends to do the same

My first one I bought back in January. My second one is only about a week old. The issues with them I heard was with the first production batch. I haven't had any problems with the 2 I have

 

[IX of XIII]

I'm running my Arctic at 0.2 on one right now...

I just checked the website and it turns out the minimum is 0.2 ohms.

But to be honest, anything under around 0.4 won't allow you to set the device to 4.2 volts (the full charge of an 18650). At 0.3 i'd have to set it to the max 50 watts and get a voltage of around 3.8-3.9.

 

[IX of XIII]

Oops. Double post.

 

[madmonkey]

I just checked the website and it turns out the minimum is 0.2 ohms.

But to be honest, anything under around 0.4 won't allow you to set the device to 4.2 volts (the full charge of an 18650). At 0.3 i'd have to set it to the max 50 watts and get a voltage of around 3.8-3.9.

with a regulated device it's ok...you don't have to set it to 4.2 for it to be a great vape,,, it would be more than 50 watts if you did with a .2...and besides, with the efficientcy loss the mod is pulling the 4,2 volts probably anyways

 

[Whiskey]

Moved to rebuildable section