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Kayfun woes

Junksie

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Good evening, I have purchased 2 kayfuns over the past 2 weeks from local vape shops. Something odd I have noticed is no matter the build I use on them, I am unable to attain a resistance reading from them by either using a mod that reads ohms or the little black box that so many of us use for resistance reading. The only way to test the resistance is by using a multimeter. Am I doing something wrong? It is worth mentioning that none of the builds I use on these particular rebuildables would be considered sub ohm. I come in typically at around 1.2-1.4, they still fire on both mechanicals I have, a nemesis and a maraxus.
Right now, one of them inparticular is showing on the multimeter as 1.3, it will neither fire on my provari or my mvp 2.
 

Dhim

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When you build a kayfun you have to make sure the coils don't touch the deck at all otherwise it will cause a short. Also depending on the clone make sure the screw in the 510 connector is all the way in. I can almost bet it's one or the other.


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st_andrew

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Sounds like a short. Ok now that I actually read the post before this I believe Dhim is correct.
 

Hobby Kid

Brighton Boy
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If it's reading on his multimeter how can it be shorting? Perhaps the multimeter is out and it's lower than it says and the devices can't read that low
 

Dhim

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If it's reading on his multimeter how can it be shorting? Perhaps the multimeter is out and it's lower than it says and the devices can't read that low

The connection might be just touching. Attaching the MM might be moving it just enough to stop the short.


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Hobby Kid

Brighton Boy
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The connection might be just touching. Attaching the MM might be moving it just enough to stop the short.


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Maybe yes. And just to add to that, I check the screws on my RDAs regularly as they so work themselves lose sometimes. I don't know why. Maybe gremlins
 

tarnishedhalo

Member For 4 Years
I have several kayfuns and depending on the device it goes on I might have to unscrew the center pin on the bottom juuuust a little bit to get a connection.
 

GargoyleK1

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Maybe yes. And just to add to that, I check the screws on my RDAs regularly as they so work themselves lose sometimes. I don't know why. Maybe gremlins
That is caused by heat cycling.
 

ccbflo

Member For 4 Years
Ed
I have several kayfuns and depending on the device it goes on I might have to unscrew the center pin on the bottom juuuust a little bit to get a connection.
This^
I had to install a spacer on my kfl positive screw so the block would still be tight and get the right spacing for a connection. Before this I used a 510 shorty adapter.
 

Galaxyrider

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Good evening, I have purchased 2 kayfuns over the past 2 weeks from local vape shops. Something odd I have noticed is no matter the build I use on them, I am unable to attain a resistance reading from them by either using a mod that reads ohms or the little black box that so many of us use for resistance reading. The only way to test the resistance is by using a multimeter. Am I doing something wrong? It is worth mentioning that none of the builds I use on these particular rebuildables would be considered sub ohm. I come in typically at around 1.2-1.4, they still fire on both mechanicals I have, a nemesis and a maraxus.
Right now, one of them inparticular is showing on the multimeter as 1.3, it will neither fire on my provari or my mvp 2.

Aren't the Provari and MVP 2, both regulated? VV, or VV/VW? I use a Lavatube V1 and I have to maintain a 1.4 ohm threshold. I have been told that that is a good place for a Kayfun (Mine is a Kayfun Lite) Im sure if your not regualted.. 1.1-1.4 would be fine, but if you are regulated, I think that 1.3 will put you one notch out. Frustrating, I know, but that might be the problem. I have ordered a Sentinel M-16, and a Nimbus, but I still plan on keeping my KFL areound that 1-1.4 ohm area, my Nimbus, however, will be fitted with dual coils at least, and quad if I'm feeling both industrious and patient.. lol.. I have sampled a quad coil setup, and man.. thats sweet!
 

RoofMonkey911

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Good evening, I have purchased 2 kayfuns over the past 2 weeks from local vape shops. Something odd I have noticed is no matter the build I use on them, I am unable to attain a resistance reading from them by either using a mod that reads ohms or the little black box that so many of us use for resistance reading. The only way to test the resistance is by using a multimeter. Am I doing something wrong? It is worth mentioning that none of the builds I use on these particular rebuildables would be considered sub ohm. I come in typically at around 1.2-1.4, they still fire on both mechanicals I have, a nemesis and a maraxus.
Right now, one of them inparticular is showing on the multimeter as 1.3, it will neither fire on my provari or my mvp 2.
I would check the pins on provari and MVP. I know the MVP is known for pin sink. Check adjustment of the 510 pin on the Kayfuns as well.
 

Junksie

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Ed

This^
I had to install a spacer on my kfl positive screw so the block would still be tight and get the right spacing for a connection. Before this I used a 510 shorty adapter.
Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions, I will check on pins. I know I am not touching the deck on either device. The pin will be my next logical area to check. ccbflo, where did you get the spacer for your positive screw? Link perhaps?

Thanks again.
 

VapedCrusader

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I use my KF on my provari all the time.. and use it to read the ohms off of it as well.. if your KF has a extendable pin - try lowering it?
 

Hobby Kid

Brighton Boy
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@Junksie I was just wondering, try connecting your kayfuns to your vapes using a 510 adapter just to see if they fire
 

chris damron

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I had an issue where a tobecco kayfun was giving me a "shorted" message on all of my DNA 30 mods, and I couldn't figure it out until I realized a TINY piece of some sort of metal (probably kanthal) had found it's way into the air hole sitting below my coil. It was right near the top of the opening. I blew thru the side air hole to get rid of it, problem solved.
 

Chowder

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Maybe yes. And just to add to that, I check the screws on my RDAs regularly as they so work themselves lose sometimes. I don't know why. Maybe gremlins
As the coil heats up, the metal wire expands and then contracts again as it cools. The continuous expanding and contracting of the wire can do one of 2 things to cause the screws to be loose. (1) The most probable is that as the wire expands, it minutely backs the screw out by applying pressure between the base and the bottom of the screw head. Thus, causing the screw head to be lifted and the threads to back out to compensate for the pressure. Or (2) the less probable is that due to degradation of the wire due to heating, it loses minute amounts of material and loses mass. The loss of mass is noticed as a thinning of the diameter of the wire; causing a gap between the contact of the bottom of the screw head and the wire.


No matter which of these is occurring, the instance of loose screws in an electrical circuit is a common phenomenon and is well documented; even if the original work was done well. The following is from the ECRI Institute, though there is not solder in the connection, the same principal applies:

Terminal Screw Loosening

The most frequently reported problem is the loosening of terminal screws in plugs, resulting in loss of power and/or loss of ground continuity or overheating of the plug. This problem can usually be traced to tinned wires or to inadequate tightening. Tightening a terminal screw on a tinned wire exerts forces that cause "cold flow" of the solder. The wire-solder combinations relax and change shape, and the terminal screws loosen. This type of cold flow may also occur where solid, rather than stranded wire is used. Inspect incoming equipment for tinned leads on power plugs. If you find any, cut off the tinned portions and rewire the plug. Advise the manufacturer and ECRI so that we can help eliminate the practice of tinning wires.

Inadequate tightening occurs because some maintenance personnel do not know how tight the screws should be. Some manufacturers have recommendations on their installation instructions; we think that 10-14 inch-pounds of torque is adequate. We do not suggest using a torque screwdriver for each installation, but each installer should practice with one to get the "feel" of the required tightening torque.

Loose terminal screws may sometimes be detected by the "rattle test" (shaking the plug and listening for rattles indicative of loose screws). However, this test may not detect screws that are only slightly loose, and plugs should be inspected annually (coordinated with inspection of the equipment). We do not advocate routine disassembly, but disassembly may be necessary if the rattle test or ground continuity checks indicate problems.
 
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Junksie

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Thanks for all the advice comments, I tried the adapter HK, same deal. I am just going to chalk it up to an oddity. It still works so I guess its not really a huge deal. So, on with my life!

Thanks again!
 

ccbflo

Member For 4 Years
Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions, I will check on pins. I know I am not touching the deck on either device. The pin will be my next logical area to check. ccbflo, where did you get the spacer for your positive screw? Link perhaps?

Thanks again.
i just cut a slice of the bottom of a protank head insulator
 

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