must be doing something wrong......

[chuckpie85]

So I have a full and mini subtank both started out top notch nothing could have been better then I had some issues with the full size and moved to the mini. I was having issues with the taste no flavor dry hits and I was roasting coils sometimes 2 in a day. So I thought maybe it was a bad batch of coils so I got some from a different vendor when I got the mini. So now I am having the same issue not wicking bad tasting etc. I read not to tighten the tank to tight as it could ruin the threads so now I'm just hand tightening it til it stops. There seems to be more air coming now but I'm afraid to over tightening the thing though. Is it possible that this is having a negative effect on the vaccum in the tank causing the coil to not wick properly? I've about had it with the kanger at this point and ordered the arctic because the maintenance is getting ridiculous on the subtank. Now I'm just trying to make it through til the Arctic arrives but I'm still extremely puzzled by this issue especially with how well the subtank line has been received. I appreciate any help in this manner

 

[Woodsman]

Many variables. Juice PG VG ratio. Watts/Volts. Overtightening the tank doesn't seem like an issue unless you really overdo it. Priming your coils with juice? Letting tank sit for a few minutes before vaping on a new coil? Have you tried the rebuildable deck that came with the mini? That might be worth messing with.

 

[chuckpie85]

Prime and wait every time I fill I'm only using between 16 and 20 watls and the juice is roughly 65 vg 35 pg. Never messed with rba deck more of a fill and go type a guy.

 

[Woodsman]

It's a mystery, all right.

 

[Woodsman]

Try taking apart and inspecting the innards of a coil. Some even rebuild the stock coil (videos show how).

 

[chuckpie85]

I will give it a shot worst case scenario I enjoy rebuilding and get good at it.

 

[Mike H.]

Theirs no reason a new coil wouldnt work if you are priming it correctly...is the first hit thats burnt ,or 3 or 4 hits into it?

You can tighten the tank snug..no reason to crank down on it as goes with most any tank...especially glass ones with metal tops and bases...If the o-ring is doing its job it wont leak.

Try taking primer puffs if you get a dry hit...put your finger over the air holes and suck a little....if this corrects your dry hit issue then your wick isnt wicking your juice properly....Also with these tanks wide open to excessive airflow, im surprised any of them wick at all as you have no vacume suction pulling anything back into the wick.

In any case, hope you get it worked out.

 

[chuckpie85]

This is happening all the time, doesn't matter if it was filled 10 minutes ago or 10 hours ago always seems to do it. Even when using a 50/50 juice which to my understanding shouldn't cause any sort of wicking issue. Recently I have been covering the air hole and taking a couple pulls with some success But that raises the question of why it's not wicking when it used to with no issues. Anything else that could cause an issue with the vacuum in thI'd thing. Also thanks so much for the help guys.

 

[Mike H.]

A mystery indeed....50/50 should wick in pretty much anything.

Im not sure which version of tank you have but some found wicking in one of them to pretty much suck...What some did to remedy the problem was drill the hole the juice wicks into to a larger diameter...maybe one size larger.

Also ,chances are the coils are fine and you can just re wick..some like to leave a small amount protruding past the hole

I dont have a definitive answer as to why it wont wick but these are some of the things people have done that claim to solve the issue.

 

[Tripster]

Sounds like what was happening with me with Aspire BDC's/BVC's and their tanks and the Silo Lite, no matter what I did...the coils would always taste burnt...I was using 50/50 juice as well. I am glad that Eleaf came out with their Melo Tank/Coils, have never gotten a burnt taste nor any complications whatsoever...just user error with forgetting to swap coils for different juices, so I got 2 coils that need a cleaning and they will be GTG. I don't have any remedies for this mystery myself other than going with a different tank/coil system, I would highly recommend the Eleaf Melo since it's $20 and the 5 pack of coils are $11 and the replacement top cap is $6.50...I'm a cheap vaper, lol!

Strange how this mystery happens, huh?

 

[Mike H.]

I forgot to mention that kanger supplied some of the tanks with what are known as bad insulators....no matter what you will get a burnt taste...Not sure if this might be the issue.

 

[Tripster]

I forgot to mention that kanger supplied some of the tanks with what are known as bad insulators....no matter what you will get a burnt taste...Not sure if this might be the issue.

So Kanger was slippin on QC?

 

[Mike H.]

So Kanger was slippin on QC?

Apparently....they fixed the issue but with the newer manufactured tanks....thos who were sold an older version will still have this issue and need to get the new insulators to resolve the issue.

I could be off base here as it may have been with the big subtank models and not the mini but i mentioned it as its what came to mind.

 

[Woodsman]

About time to move into RBAs and away from this manufactured stuff. I came across this tonight, and will eventually move into this and away from the replaceable coils: http://www.vapordna.com/Lemo-RBA-Rebuildable-Tank-Atomizer-by-iSmoka-Eleaf-p/rb0314.htm

 

[Woodsman]

It's an RDA but with a tank attached...

 

[Tripster]

Apparently....they fixed the issue but with the newer manufactured tanks....thos who were sold an older version will still have this issue and need to get the new insulators to resolve the issue.

I could be off base here as it may have been with the big subtank models and not the mini but i mentioned it as its what came to mind.

Alright, that sucks!

About time to move into RBAs and away from this manufactured stuff. I came across this tonight, and will eventually move into this and away from the replaceable coils: http://www.vapordna.com/Lemo-RBA-Rebuildable-Tank-Atomizer-by-iSmoka-Eleaf-p/rb0314.htm

I prefer just to fill and vape vs building coils and all that jazz...lol!

 

[Woodsman]

Prime and wait every time I fill I'm only using between 16 and 20 watls and the juice is roughly 65 vg 35 pg. Never messed with rba deck more of a fill and go type a guy.

Right...the Lemo won't work if you want the fill & go replaceable coil setup.

 

[Mike H.]

It's an RDA but with a tank attached...

The subtank minis are coiled tanks with an RDA attachement option to make them like a kayfun or a host of other RTA tanks.

 

[Woody_]

I shelved the Subtank mini for this reason. The problem is the floating center pin in the atty base. When connected to my mods that have floating 510 setups, it pushes the pin back up to the point that the resistance jumps around. One draw it's .5 ohm, the next could be 1ohm with a burnt hit. I've pushed the center pin down to make better contact with the mod but if I don't screw it in just right the resistance starts jumping around again. Extremely frustrating. The workaround is to screw the atty down to the point that it just makes contact with the mod pin and then just a bit more. But then you run the risk of it loosening.

Just wanted to throw this out there in the event this is causing you issues. Believe me, my coils are thoroughly primed and nothing is over tightened.

 

[chuckpie85]

Yes mystery indeed. The subtanks have officially been shelved and I've moved to the arctic tank. Best decision I've made the performance is night and day vs the subtanks. I'm a long time kanger fan but this has literally left a bad taste in my mouth too bad cuz just spent more of my hard earned money on more of their garbage coils. If you haven't gone arctic yet it's highly recommended.

 

[Slurp812]

The loose connection thing likely is the issue. The regulated mod would read the resistance wrong, and up the voltage to compensate, once the mod begins to deliver the higher voltage the resistance caused bu the crappy connection would effectively go away, and too much power would be applied to the coil burning that shit up! I have 2 mods, one fixed pin and the other spring loaded. No floating pins. So I haven't seen this. cleaning the crap off the pins on both the mod and tank may help, but it seems that floating pins on both ends can lead to crappy connections. Just thinking out loud here. So this is all IMHO...

 

[Woodsman]

Yes mystery indeed. The subtanks have officially been shelved and I've moved to the arctic tank. Best decision I've made the performance is night and day vs the subtanks. I'm a long time kanger fan but this has literally left a bad taste in my mouth too bad cuz just spent more of my hard earned money on more of their garbage coils. If you haven't gone arctic yet it's highly recommended.

Speaking of Bad Taste in the Mouth...

 

[Woodsman]

The loose connection thing likely is the issue. The regulated mod would read the resistance wrong, and up the voltage to compensate, once the mod begins to deliver the higher voltage the resistance caused bu the crappy connection would effectively go away, and too much power would be applied to the coil burning that shit up! I have 2 mods, one fixed pin and the other spring loaded. No floating pins. So I haven't seen this. cleaning the crap off the pins on both the mod and tank may help, but it seems that floating pins on both ends can lead to crappy connections. Just thinking out loud here. So this is all IMHO...

That would be a drawback for a VW mod. My 2.27 ohm coil is running at 3.19 volts, set at 4.5 watts. I could simply move my tank to my Provari and then vape at 3.2 volts. The Provari also reads the coil resistance, so the user simply chooses a voltage. I can see a problem running in wattage mode if the coil is read at, say, 5.49 ohms, and the mod is set at 4.5 watts...the voltage would jump to 4.97.
Still so much to learn.....................