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My DIY 7.4v+ Mod Builds - Enter the Fun

Shawheennn

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Main Part List:
Fatdaddy V4 22mm
18650 SLED
Hammond 1590BBK
International Rectifier 3034 Mosfet
15k 1/4w Resistor
A Random Button I had Because I ordered the wrong one
*Amazon links used to aid in longevity of link success in future


First and foremost, remember when building anything that it will blow up and you will die. Since 90% of these threads say that I wanted to just knock it out now so we can have fun and no one bothers us. Remember Charles Darwins theory of survival of the fittest? It applies to us too so do some research or blame no one but yourself on your extinction.

Great, now that that is covered let us begin!

Realistically my main goal for going more volts was so i can reduce amp output yet yield high watt results and maintain efficiency along the way and eventually fix form factor. I started with 18650 batteries because my other "subjects" have not arrived yet. This thread will be updated with the new projects.

The Hammond box is wayyyy overkill for size but I just wanted plenty of room to work with on my initial test one. Sorry if she fugly. I got side tracked and had to redo the entire build from my lack of focus.

A side note for wiring. I used 14 gauge (32 amps) stranded wire on the Positive to the 510 connector, the bottom of the SLED and then the rest I ran 18 gauge (16 amps) solid wire since whatever coming from MOSFET gets regulated. Next time I'll just use 18 gauge & 20 gauge (11 amps) to save space and be real.



ooooops didnt take 510 soldering pic...

Get your diagram knocked out for reference
2j1uf05.jpg


Drill Some Holes to fit button and head then check fitment
ke7o8m.jpg

2hi7ay0.jpg

2jd41ao.jpg


Get the Mosfet Ready. Resistor gets put on Gate & Source legs.
33morxz.jpg


Get that button ready (id do this ish last next time lol)
2hn1dw0.jpg


Get Sled Ready - This is SERIES so the - & + of the battery are sharing the bottom
33ttu95.jpg


This part of the Fatdaddy goes to the DRAIN leg
k4fsxt.jpg


Set everything up like a failure. There was no reason for me to be sloppy and do it like that :mad:
nfjas.jpg


Innards of the self destructing box - ghetto batteries cuz i live life on the ledge
io0r41.jpg


Coils! This one I just slapped together a .53 ohm build. 24 Gauge 9 wraps on a 4.0mm sized "bit"
9awhs3.jpg


Checkin Ohms (thats how i knew it was .53 sukka)
2agusch.jpg


Verify smoke with Cotton
oj2dy9.jpg


Verify wattage & Amps - For reference a 3.7v build would require OHMS of .14 @ 28 amps. pfft what a waste
1232r61.jpg



Cute
2eaump3.jpg


Heres a prelim video



I was bummed, it didnt explode. Everything worked like a charm and it hits like a champ. Realistically I want to settle between 80-90w, I feel at 100w its just a little to hot for me (im not a smoker). I have no taste buds so I barely ever vape for taste, more cloud play but this is definitely tasty still. Will make a .65 ohm (85w @ 12 amp) tomorrow.

Thats it. Like I said I will update with new builds and enhancements. Feel free to dump questions, theories and ideas in this thread. If you arent going to add something of value, please just watch the thread from sidelines. Safety concerns have been met to my minimum standards.
 
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Shawheennn

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Here is the next build. I went to the RC car life for answers. Enjoy (Little more pic heavy)

7.4v LIPO Build
Main Part List:
Turnigy 1600 MAH 20c Lipo Battery
Turnigy E3 Compact Charger
Hammond 1590B
International Rectifier 3034
15k 1/4 resistor
Varitube 22mm Top
XT60 Connectors
16 Gauge Silicone Wire
Momentary switch (i used a .45 amp one)

Gathering the bits and pieces
300wlg9.jpg

rbjqyt.jpg

qqwv13.jpg

2ivi8u8.jpg

15hos5d.jpg


Preppin wires that go to the switch and top. I soldered em like a T.
357k3g4.jpg

2i1guu9.jpg

2cyhpg.jpg


Dumped rubber coating on it

wi7jmb.jpg

2gy2ae8.jpg


Solder the XT Connector - and for future note this was overkill and hard to take apart lol
sy1nyb.jpg

be9fv6.jpg


Pre wiring it up
2q1gh2s.jpg


Button TLC
1ywd2a.jpg


Snipped the Mosfet legs & added resistor
iz0uc8.jpg

2i88zkp.jpg


Solder to Mosfet. Top goes to the DRAIN leg, SOURCE goes to the negative of the battery, Button wire to GATE leg. Remember, im using a .45amp button on this because the mosfet allows me to and save space.
1077y8j.jpg


The top was nice, spring loaded, low profile and beautiful hole for the post. hehe
25p1z15.jpg


.............
 
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Shawheennn

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Threw some double side tape down cuz yolo
fnd91x.jpg


Solder to top
142dmbp.jpg


Line up button
2mo8avt.jpg


Make button a slave
qxjw20.jpg


Insert top (flush, so clean)
20p3n6p.jpg


Innards of the exploding box that will never work cause its crazy
4h9xr8.jpg


Drop in the battery
2cicq6p.jpg


Ohms
2ppngv8.jpg


Calculate - this was my prior .53/.54ohm coil so i used it, it was 24 gauge, 4.0mm "bit", 9 wraps or so. Full battery is like 8.1v so ill just show that 7.4v life
vhcirn.jpg


Fire test
e8wyee.jpg


Finished
xfdi7q.jpg

o5dlbd.jpg


will revise later
 
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Minamus

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This is a series? just making sure becuase this is a perfect how to
 

Shawheennn

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yes series. Reason I did this was to increase voltage, lower amps yet produce milky clouds at a good wattage. Really keeps parts cool at a higher voltage.
 

Minamus

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Question. How did you mount the sled and isnt the copper parts contacting the case from the sled?
 

Shawheennn

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Dam how did you notic that. It was an old pic i was to lazy to post the updated insides. I just put double sided tape inside so i can easily stick things around while i work on it. On mobile, will update in a bit with correct image to help
 

Minamus

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Dam how did you notic that. It was an old pic i was to lazy to post the updated insides. I just put double sided tape inside so i can easily stick things around while i work on it. On mobile, will update in a bit with correct image to help
I just ment from the sled soldering pic that it would contact the case so did you tape it or something so it didnt short out? I'm actually ordering my parts so thats why i was wondering.
 

Shawheennn

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Ya, just insulate inside of case with foam or double sided tape.
 

Wabah58

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The spring of the 510 carrying all the load soldered like that, makes for a nice wick for your exploding box :p

Probably more of a spring collapse but there is always hope :O
 

Shawheennn

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Wait Im not following, what discrepency did you see?

That spring aided the fitment of the 510 RDA. Sits do beautifully. WhT am i missing lol
 

Wabah58

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Wait Im not following, what discrepency did you see?

That spring aided the fitment of the 510 RDA. Sits do beautifully. WhT am i missing lol

I try not to criticize on box building, but since that is going to be lipo and pushing 7.4 volts I wanted to say something about that. They way you soldered up that 510 to the cap, the spring will be carrying all the voltage, and will eventually collapse, you need to solder direct to the 510 pin. Let me get you a pic and post BRB.
 

Wabah58

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Member For 4 Years
In you picture you have soldered to that cap, the 510 pin never hits that cap, the spring is carrying your voltage, it is not designed to carry that much, but will work like that for 4.2 but voltage drop comes into play. The correct way and far less voltage drop is to solder directly to the 510 pin. View pic of correct way.

510.JPG
 

Shawheennn

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ahhhh dude thank you so much for that, that is the feedback I am looking for. I overlooked tf out of that portion. I havent used it at all, I was at the gym. Let me fix it up
 

Minamus

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Do you happen to have a link to the switch you used? i couldn't find the .45 amp you were talking about
 

Minamus

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Shawheennn

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i was out for a bit. back working on a few projects and new designs

Im bout to post a few new builds I just did that I fell in love with
 

Shawheennn

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Do you happen to have a link to the switch you used? i couldn't find the .45 amp you were talking about


Super late reply but I picked them up at frys electronics. I have been using 12mm plain buttons. EVERYONE loves the feel vs the fancy ones, go figure.

HERE <----- I ordered those and success. love em for simplicity and price. Due to the mosfet & resistor, there is no need for a high amp switch. find any you look, i search either the mm size in google and go from there and get ideas. ex. 12mm momentary switch
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Will do a better DIY for these since I had to order a few things. half assed build here lol

7.4v unregulated Hammond 1590G & A
Before I start, the 1590G is a perfect box size for the pocket

lay it all out
2rg0y3c.jpg


12mm button and fat daddy v4 low profile holes drilled
2uh8f42.jpg


snipping mosfet legs. this time I used IRL7833 since amazon had a good deal for a 3 pack. then add resistor
mwqxrl.jpg


keep lil jarvis in check with helping
j60dfl.jpg


Heatshrink makes everything look cleaner.
kbev7c.jpg

24ewfva.jpg


Tuck em in nice and snug. this was with an 800 mah because my 1600 will b here soon. ill post update with that in final build log
106m49h.jpg

b5nz43.jpg


Lookin good
origra.jpg

2dhy8eh.jpg

hwhesk.jpg

6ir2o7.jpg



charging
30sefl2.jpg


1590A
903c3n.jpg
 
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