nemesis fire problems

[ManOfManyMasks]

Been having some firing issues with my nemsis, my power is being drawin to my brass button conector making my fire button hot, now my top brass conector is barely receving power, im using two diff efest 18650s same problem with both, and im using a mephisto rda, ive tried changing coil builds still same result

 

[State O' Flux]

You have a continuity issue, likely with your mech switch assembly. When the mod heats up, particularly in the switch assembly, it's a indication that you have a substantial resistance, causing a "Joule heating" condition.

If you've not disassembled and cleaned the switch assembly... do it. Remove all tarnish and/or corrosion (if any) using what ever methods you have available. A pencil or pen eraser works nicely for removing tarnish from copper and brass contacts.
Check that your negative button contact extends above the switch battery resting shoulder when the button is pressed and that there's no battery rattle when the button is not engaged.
If you have a DMM, you can test the mod for resistance/conductivity... should be zero Ω. If you have an inline volt meter, you can test for voltage drop... another indicator or conductivity.

If you can't sort it out, or it seems uncorrectable, I would suggest raising the atomizer resistance a few tenths of an ohm at a time, until the switch cools down.

 

[ManOfManyMasks]

You have a continuity issue, likely with your mech switch assembly. When the mod heats up, particularly in the switch assembly, it's a indication that you have a substantial resistance, causing a "Joule heating" condition.

If you've not disassembled and cleaned the switch assembly... do it. Remove all tarnish and/or corrosion (if any) using what ever methods you have available. A pencil or pen eraser works nicely for removing tarnish from copper and brass contacts.
Check that your negative button contact extends above the switch battery resting shoulder when the button is pressed and that there's no battery rattle when the button is not engaged.
If you have a DMM, you can test the mod for resistance/conductivity... should be zero Ω. If you have an inline volt meter, you can test for voltage drop... another indicator or conductivity.

If you can't sort it out, or it seems uncorrectable, I would suggest raising the atomizer resistance a few tenths of an ohm at a time, until the switch cools down.

thanks you very much, once i get home ill check nd see what thatll do, but ive taken my mod apart and cleaned it an abundance of times the past few days to no avail

 

[ManOfManyMasks]

You have a continuity issue, likely with your mech switch assembly. When the mod heats up, particularly in the switch assembly, it's a indication that you have a substantial resistance, causing a "Joule heating" condition.

If you've not disassembled and cleaned the switch assembly... do it. Remove all tarnish and/or corrosion (if any) using what ever methods you have available. A pencil or pen eraser works nicely for removing tarnish from copper and brass contacts.
Check that your negative button contact extends above the switch battery resting shoulder when the button is pressed and that there's no battery rattle when the button is not engaged.
If you have a DMM, you can test the mod for resistance/conductivity... should be zero Ω. If you have an inline volt meter, you can test for voltage drop... another indicator or conductivity.

If you can't sort it out, or it seems uncorrectable, I would suggest raising the atomizer resistance a few tenths of an ohm at a time, until the switch cools down.

My only prob with the joule heating theory is that, there is no wires in the nemesis mod its tube mod