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New Builder Help - Mod Getting Hot

Hello!

I recently purchased a Tugboat V2 to start building coils on. Before this, I was just using a crown tank. I'm not using an unregulated mod, I switch between a VTC mini, Snow Wolf 200, and a RX200. I built a few practice coils, and on my ohm reader now, it's saying .17 ohms. Is that total (there's a coil on each side?) Is this safe? I've read so many horror stories and freaked myself out a bit :) I noticed my mods were getting a little bit hotter than when I was just using the crown tank. Any help would be appreciated!
 

Neunerball

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Hello!

I recently purchased a Tugboat V2 to start building coils on. Before this, I was just using a crown tank. I'm not using an unregulated mod, I switch between a VTC mini, Snow Wolf 200, and a RX200. I built a few practice coils, and on my ohm reader now, it's saying .17 ohms. Is that total (there's a coil on each side?) Is this safe? I've read so many horror stories and freaked myself out a bit :) I noticed my mods were getting a little bit hotter than when I was just using the crown tank. Any help would be appreciated!
Yes, the 0.17 Ohm, is the total. What batteries are you using in those mods?
 

Faceless Vapes

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Hello!

I recently purchased a Tugboat V2 to start building coils on. Before this, I was just using a crown tank. I'm not using an unregulated mod, I switch between a VTC mini, Snow Wolf 200, and a RX200. I built a few practice coils, and on my ohm reader now, it's saying .17 ohms. Is that total (there's a coil on each side?) Is this safe? I've read so many horror stories and freaked myself out a bit :) I noticed my mods were getting a little bit hotter than when I was just using the crown tank. Any help would be appreciated!

You don't really need to be concerned with the horror stories in this situation. You are using a regulated device. So it won't fire if there is a short. Just stick with regulated until you get more familiar then if you want to go unregulated having experience and knowledge is key! As far as the mod getting hot, is it getting really hot or just warm?
 
You don't really need to be concerned with the horror stories in this situation. You are using a regulated device. So it won't fire if there is a short. Just stick with regulated until you get more familiar then if you want to go unregulated having experience and knowledge is key! As far as the mod getting hot, is it getting really hot or just warm?

Well it's not too hot to touch, but it's definitely warmer than when using just the crown tank. Is that normal?
 

DED420

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Member For 4 Years
The lower the build, the warmer it will get, as the coils will produce more heat, in turn heating up all the surrounding area (RDA/Cap/Mod) especially after pulsing coils. Since pulsing the coils gets them red hot, they produce alot more heat than they would when wicked and juiced. Tanks are enclosed and surrounded by juice, acting as an insulator and not transmitting as much heat as an RDA will. Once you wick up and juice the build, it won't get nearly as hot when you start vaping it
 

DED420

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Flavor will require either Twisted wire, Braided wire, or some type of Clapton. Since you have 24ga, you could try Twisted wire, maybe a 5x5 Sleeper 2mm-2.5mmID since it's a 3 post deck. Sleepers aren't the easiest thing in the world to make, but produces pretty good flavor. I have a Twisted 20ga 4x4 Sleeper 3mmID @ 0.1ohm, running at 100W, and flavor is stellar :) (and it can cloud a room in no time too)

20151217_2104421.jpg
 

raymo2u

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The arent any true 40a batteries and the reason why your mod is getting hot is its putting too much stress on your batteries. This heat is causing your batteries internal resistance which makes them get hot and its a chain event that slowly lowers your batteries life cycles and capacity. Dont believe the wrappers when they say anything over 25a, and even then there is only a handful of batteries that even have that as a Continuous Discharge.
Grab some Samsung 25R's, LG HE2/3, LG HB2/4's or HB6's and you wont have heat issues with your mod. The lower you build and the more you ask of your batteries the more stress is laid onto them, make sure your batteries are really able to handle the load.

Here is a Chart of Manufacturer Specs and Real World Testing on most 18650 Batteries, open it in a new tab and either view it or save it to your computer for future viewing.
 

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Faceless Vapes

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Well it's not too hot to touch, but it's definitely warmer than when using just the crown tank. Is that normal?

Sounds like it might just be a bit of heat transfer. Make sure your coils arent super close to the outer portion of the rda. If they are close (Never touching) it might just be transferring heat to the rda then to your mod.
 

raymo2u

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.17 isnt that low and the Heat Transfer shouldnt be that bad unless hes not inhaling alot of air and the heat just radiates and get absorbed by the mod. If the mod get warm around the battery section then its the batteries, if it gets hot around the top and slowly creeps downwards its heat transfer. This should give you an idea of what to look for to get some more information about what going on.
 
.17 isnt that low and the Heat Transfer shouldnt be that bad unless hes not inhaling alot of air and the heat just radiates and get absorbed by the mod. If the mod get warm around the battery section then its the batteries, if it gets hot around the top and slowly creeps downwards its heat transfer. This should give you an idea of what to look for to get some more information about what going on.

Okay, maybe this then. It seems like it's hotter around the top and creeping down. There wasn't anything touching the sides of the RDA, but maybe their just too close... If it's a high ohm build though, it won't put as much stress on my batteries correct?
 

DED420

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I guess the main question should be "Is it a fully wicked and juiced build that's causing it to heat up, or was it just hot when you pulsed and adjusted the coils?" This will make the troubleshooting alot easier. Do what @raymo2u said, and check if it's heating up from the batteries, or from the RDA
 

robot zombie

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Okay, maybe this then. It seems like it's hotter around the top and creeping down. There wasn't anything touching the sides of the RDA, but maybe their just too close... If it's a high ohm build though, it won't put as much stress on my batteries correct?
When it comes to regulated mods, the wattage setting is what determines how much drain the batteries see. The batteries have to generate the wattage you set at their voltage under load. The device takes that raw power from the batteries and bucks the necessary amount of voltage down to the amount of current the coil needs to maintain the wattage you set at its resistance. On your mods, a .1 @ 100w pulls the same current from the battery as a .5 at 100w.

That's part of what makes them so safe. They can output more current than your batteries actually give them. What they do to power a .1 is nifty. At 8v, the batteries can generate over 150w of power for just ~20A. The device then takes a lot of that voltage and converts it to current to satisfy the draw of the coil, so that what actually hits the atty is 150w @ 3.8v and 38A. As long as you have good 20-30 amp batteries, you'll be fine with anything that it can fire.


And actually, lower-resistance coils can require less power and run cooler. It all depends on the mass of the coils. A dual 24g at .3 may require 80w of power to heat up, while a dual 24 at .1 wouldn't even need half of that power to heat up as quickly and will lose its heat more quickly.

If you're going by mech mod rules, wherein lower resistance means a higher amp load, more power, and thus more heat, then that seems counterintuitive, but it makes perfect sense if you think of it only in terms of wattage and coil size. A bigger coil needs more power than a smaller one.

When it comes to regulated power sources, the resistance only changes how the coils get their wattage. It doesn't change the amount of generated heat that one watt translates to. To go back to my previous example, 150w @ 8v and 20A does the same amount of work as 150w @3.8v and 38A.


Heat retention can be a problem with high-mass, high-powered builds. They take a lot of power to heat up quickly, but that also means the heat dissipates more slowly. The more mass a coil has, the more power it will need and the more heat it will hold onto.

If you want to get the heat retention down, you either have to use an RDA with more airflow/chamber space or build smaller coils. Try dropping down a gauge, decreasing the diameter, or taking a wrap out.
 
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