Just wondering what big hoopla is about temp control. I just ordered a subox to upgrade from my u20 and I see now a bunch of stuff with temp control.
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Great explanation!!! Thank you. I love Temp control and all my non temp control mods have been lonely lately.Adjusting a temp control mod works kind of the same way as adjusting any other mod, just has a few more prep steps needed. The main error people commit with temp control is that they tend to forget that both the coil and the mod need to be at room temperature for about 5 minutes before you prep to use it, then you really need to remember to lock the coils ohms reading before doing anything else.
The temp setting is for you to set the max heat you want feel your vape get to. That needs experimenting a bit, same as with any new mod really. If it gets to that temp too fast, it figures that your wick is dry and will shut off to prevent dry hits. The joules setting is kinda like the watts/volts setting, it tells the mod how much power you want going to your coil.
It's not hard but when you are used to regular setups, sometimes it seems like a bit of a pain to do all that. Once you get it working exactly the way you want it the consistent vape quality and not having to focus on keeping your wicking wet is well worth it.
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Oh, I forgot to mention that, while it's almost impossible to burn your wicking material with a temp control mod, you CAN still "boil" your juice in a tank if your temp is set too high for the juice you're vaping. For example, in kanthal setups, you'd generally use lower wattage/volts with fruit vapes than you would others. Same goes with temp control. If you'd normally vape at 450 degrees Fahrenheit, you might have to adjust downwards to 425 or even 400 degrees and if you take longer pulls you might also have to lower the joules setting too. Again, experimentation is key at first but once you get used to it you almost instantly know if you have to adjust your max temp or joules after a couple of pulls.Seems like it's worth it just for the burnt flavor
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I just started in TC also with the Evic VT and it's not fun. The damn thing keeps misreading the coils like crazy and vape is super hot because you never know where the res is. Lock feature doesn't work on VT , at least not with RBA's.
I hit mouth to lung with temp control just fine. You just need to tighten the airflow. It's not the volume of air you pull through a coil that cools it off, it's the speed of the airflow that counts. A mouth to lung hit with a slightly tighter draw pulls air through at the same speed as a lung hit with airflow wide open, cooling the coil at the same rate. Only difference is the vapor production, not the flavor, heat or nic hit. Of course, no matter what build you use, you'll always get more vapor from a lung hit because the vapor simply doesn't have time to dissipate in your mouth.The VT is super sensitive to builds. Anything amiss and it won't read properly. I run about 10 different RBAs on it, and they all work well as long as my build is perfect!
That said, I think TC is something to work your way up to once you have experience both vaping and building. And with TC if you do mouth to lung it won't work properly - it needs better airflow to give a hit at the right temp. At least in my experience!
Adjusting a temp control mod works kind of the same way as adjusting any other mod, just has a few more prep steps needed. The main error people commit with temp control is that they tend to forget that both the coil and the mod need to be at room temperature for about 5 minutes before you prep to use it, then you really need to remember to lock the coils ohms reading before doing anything else.
The temp setting is for you to set the max heat you want to feel your vape get to. That needs experimenting a bit, same as with any new mod really. If it gets to that temp too fast, it figures that your wick is dry and will shut off to prevent dry hits. The joules setting is kinda like the watts/volts setting, it tells the mod how much power you want going to your coil.
It's not hard but when you are used to regular setups, sometimes it seems like a bit of a pain to do all that. Once you get it working exactly the way you want it the consistent vape quality and not having to focus on keeping your wicking wet is well worth it.
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You're welcome. I tried to explain as simply as possible since this is a thread for newbies at temp control. There are articles with more precise, scientific, explanations but those just tend to overly complicate things and make people give up before trying because they think it's too hard.Thank you for this awesome explanation. I was clueless as to what TC was until I read this.
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In my opinion, temp control is for the distracted vaper, like myself, who doesn't mind a bit of hassle before starting to vape to avoid a nasty hit when my RTA is empty and I don't notice or I forget to drip often enough. However, vaping is very dependant on personal tastes so it's not for everyone.In my personal experience I've been very underwhelmed by temp control. I have an IPV 3 li and have built I don't know how many damn nickel coil builds at various resistances, id's, gauges, etc but every time I finally get one set in place, resistance locked, wicked, juiced etc, its like meh... A whole lot of work for something that is so minimally different (I hesistate to say better) than running regular kanthal which is much much easier to work with, imo.
Some people love the hell out of TC from what I keep reading, but for all the hassle its just not my cup of tea. With a properly wicked RTA I don't need to worry about dry hits so its kind of like whatever for me. I barely drip, other than to test my diy mixes so that's another thing, I'm sure nickel is great for RDA's if properly set up but again just not worth the hassle, for me anyways.
tl;dr: Temp control is great for some, not so great for others.
Machine screw!? Not really. I'm using the trick shown in the following video, in order to get even spacing. BTW, it also works with Kanthal coils.In my opinion, temp control is for the distracted vaper, like myself, who doesn't mind a bit of hassle before starting to vape to avoid a nasty hit when my RTA is empty and I don't notice or I forget to drip often enough. However, vaping is very dependant on personal tastes so it's not for everyone.
I do admit that building with nickle IS harder than building with kanthal, and I don't recommend anyone start with temp control by building their own coils. People need to use stock coils to get used to setting up their mod correctly first, THEN they can experiment and practice with RDA builds. It's vital for nickle temp control builds to have really SOLID connections and not all build decks can hold the wire steady enough to do it right which can be frustrating in the extreme when you first start. I actually tend to use the sort of build I used to do on my Squid RDA, putting the wire through the post holes AND pulling the tails up to wrap them under the securing screws for the best possible connection. Add to that the fact that contact coils are too hard to get working properly so you need to wrap on a machine screw to get perfect spaced coils (especially if building a dual coil which needs both coils to be IDENTICAL) and the much lower resistance that nickle has, forcing you to work with thinner gauges to get the right resistance.... Yeah, it can be a bit much to learn to build properly. I've had success with the 28g tempered nickle wire that Lightening Vapes sells though.
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The VT is an awesome ... AWESOME, unit to be used in power mode but in TC is way too much work just to get it going and TBH TC vaping is just not for me, too hot and thirsty.I was actually looking at Evic vt.
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The VT is an awesome ... AWESOME, unit to be used in power mode but in TC is way too much work just to get it going and TBH TC vaping is just not for me, too hot and thirsty.
Never noticed that . I run it right now with original Subtank , RBA one coil @1.3 AWG 26 and works like a champ at 14 W.Is VT still doing that 30w fire when you first turn it on? http://www.tasteyourjuice.com/wordpress/2015/06/25/evic-vt-heads-up/
That method works well enough for single coil builds but not so much for dual coils. I use that method myself if I'm sticking to single coils as it is easier. However, dual coils need to be perfectly identical to work properly in nickle coil builds so for that a machine screw is ideal to save yourself a lot of fussing with your coils.Machine screw!? Not really. I'm using the trick shown in the following video, in order to get even spacing. BTW, it also works with Kanthal coils.
True, but as long as you do things right and don't try to dry burn nickle, that 600° temp control ceiling keeps it safe enough. Definitely still much safer the cigarettes, lol. Besides, I've never even seen anyone really use a TC device on its highest temp because that's too darn hot!The other reason I don't use TC is because you need Nickel wire. Ni200,Ni201,or just Nickel, ( the earth's 24th most abundant element ) Oxygen is #1 followed by silicon. Um yea, distracted..well bluntly, Nickel is on the EPA's hazardous substance list. When heated, Nickel releases a chemical called (Nickel Carbonyl) that's one of the most toxic substances encountered in industrial Processes but it just being on the EPA's hazardous priority list deters me. Kanthal containing 3 elements ( none of them on that list either...) Iron ( used in cooking for a thousand years ) Aluminum ( we wrap our food in it ) and Chromium ( an anti corrosive ) We don't use Nickel in the kitchen for a reason. It leeches and becomes volatile at 671º, that's why all the TC devices have a 600º ceiling. Ok, someone kick me off my soapbox. lol