Hey guys I just got an Ohmega Stacked 18650 beast of an RDA and the only thing I know is that I push between 7 and 8.2 volts. How do you measure the amperes so I can calculate the resistance? I'm currently running 24 gauge kanthol 12 wrapped dual coils and it runs pretty smoothly but I want to make sure I'mean getting the best resistance for the mod. The RDA doesn'the fit in an Ohm reader and I don'the know my amps. How do I calculate the current so I can put that and my volts into the Ohm's law calc?
Become a Patron!
Ohm's Law Missing Variables
- Thread starter RenThe10th
- Start date
It says 2.25 Ohms?
Edit- I forgot to change the Guage lol it Says .69 Ohms now, assuming I measured everything right, which is cool since I was looking for .7 lol Thanks a lot
It says 2.25 Ohms?
Edit- I forgot to change the Guage lol it Says .69 Ohms now, assuming I measured everything right, which is cool since I was looking for .7 lol Thanks a lot
The basics are pretty simple with Ohm's Law on a mechanical mod
Highest Fresh Charge Volts/Resistance (Your Ohm's)=Max Amps you will pull
Stacked or Series mods, the voltage is doubled and the CDR and Mah of the battery stay the same. Sony VTC4 2100mah, 23amps CDR as example, fresh charge on batteries off the charger is 4.2v, so, 4.2x2 in series we get=8.4v, 2100mah, 23amps CDR
23amps and 8.4volts in an Ohm's Law Calculator tells us lowest resistance would be 0.3652 Ohms, which will give an output of 193.2 watts
You can find free Ohms Law Calculators on both the Apple and Google stores, just need 2 of the 4 variables and the calculator does the rest.
On an RDA that has a proprietary connection, to get the resistance of your RDA, go down to Walmart, your Home Depot (Hardware store), and buy a relatively cheap Digital Multi-Meter, placing the meter into resistance reading mode for DC, red lead is positive so will touch the center pin at the bottom of the RDA, black lead is negative, so it can be placed anywhere on the outside base or threads of the RDA, pretty simple operation.
Safety here, though I listed above a resistance of about 0.37ohms, on a series mech the safest, lowest build you should aim for is about 0.56ohms which is 15amps CDR needed, and gives 5 to 15amps buffer in case of an "UHOH!" moment, and as well give safety room for battery wear and tear. Technically every re-charge cycle lowers the optimum Mah and C ratings of a battery, as well as high amp output stress lowers these 2 ratings as well, both ratings together determine maximum CDR, so 6 months down the road of heavy abuse, a 20amp CDR battery could potentially be only a 10amp CDR battery.
Stay Safe out there.
Using 3.0mm as the id core of the coil..
Resistance 1.108 Ω /2 = 0.554 Ω (dual coil)
Using 4.0mm as the id core of the coil.
Resistance 1.375 Ω/2 = 0.6875 Ω (dual coil) and rounds to.... 0.69 woot!
http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp
enter the values for your coil at the top.. ie 12 wraps and inner diameter.
below that, enter the number of strands and type and gauge of wire.
That will give the resistance of a single coil. Divide by 2 for dual coil.
I had to guess at 3mm for the ID, but you can enter whatever you used.
Last edited:
Oh fuck another newb on a Mech and a Stacked Mech at that!
took the words out of my mouth.
People selling these to newbies need throat punched and kicked in the crotch.
Considering no mention of batteries what do you want to bet he comes back with 40 amp some fuckery or 35 amp shits that do not actually exist?
Or re-purposed Laptop batteries or Trustfire/Ultrafire's from eBay!
Check out his post history ...............................
Fuck me running .............................................
He is a news video waiting to happen. I hope he doesn't blame vaping and takes accountability for using a mod well above his experience level.
Everything the OP is asking about is stuff he should already know before even touching a mechanical mod. He will probably be ok as long as he stays above 0.50 ohm and doesn't use the wrong type atomizers. All he needs is cheap batteries and a short + pin and he turns from a vaper into a statistic.
My advice to the OP... put that mod away for a year, start for 6 months on a nice regulated mod, then progress to a single cell non-hybrid mech if you want. Multicell mechs are an expert device, not for new or intermediate vapers. Flavor is better on a regulated mod anyway, since the voltage doesn't drop. Cloud builds are safer since the regulated mod keeps you from over stressing your batteries and keeps them from going POP.
I really don't see any reason to even use a multicell mechanical mod, unless you are competing in that bracket. And if you are competing, you need to know a lot more than just the answers to the questions you are asking.
Even worse.. that mod is a hybrid mod.. no 510 spring pin for safety.
Now just to give you an idea of how dangerous that mod is.. if your atomizers +pin is just a fraction of an inch to short, it will create a hard short and the batteries will instantly go into thermal run, heat up, and POP. A high quality battery will give you more time to get the batteries out of the mod and drop them into a sink or bucket or on the lawn, but once the battery goes thermal, nothing will stop it. It continues to fire even if you take it out of the mod. A hard short creates ZERO resistance, which is below the batteries internal resistance, once that happens, the battery becomes the resistor and keeps firing regardless of if you are pressing the fire button or if you dump it out of the mod. Cheap batteries heat up really fast and explode.
Mechanical Mod Disclaimer
Mechanical Mods are for advanced users, which requires knowledge of batteries, springs, firing pin adjustments, switches, and compatible atomizers. Mechanical mods can be difficult and dangerous if setup improperly. Please be aware before you buy.
Ref: https://www.vaporworld.biz/mods/ohmega-stacked-mod-v2-18650/
By the way... your coil determines the amps. You need to know how much resistance your batteries can handle and the max amps (CDR constant discharge rate) of the batteries. This is why we only recommend samsung, lg or sony.. the correct CDR is listed. Pulse rating is just a BS number and should never be used. You can pulse a 20A battery at 35A. Is it safe? HELL NO! Good batteries make it safer, but not 100% "safe".
Now, we all want you to enjoy vaping, but we don't want you to get hurt doing it. The best way we can do this, is by letting you know when you are putting yourself in danger and offering alternative suggestions. And of course, explain a bit of the "Why".
Just for an example.. I use a single cell mech and will build as low as 0.07 ohm, but I know what I am doing, I know the risks, I know how to reduce the risks and what to do if something goes wrong, and more importantly how to reduce the chance of anything going wrong in the first place. That said, I wouldn't TOUCH that mod on a bet.
Now that being said, if you want huge massive clouds, get a nice regulated mod and ask. On a reg mod, I can tell you how to make clouds to choke a horse. LOL.