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problems with ipv6? help!

blake782

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
hey guys, just wondering if anyone else is having any structural issues with their ipv6

for the first few weeks it worked wonderful and i loved it, however, I am now having some problems with it. As you can see from the two pictures below, on one side of the box, the blue shell does not meet the steel base snugly, and as a result the device misfires and even leaks sometimes. the other side seems to fit snugly and fine/

I have not dropped it, and it is in perfect physical shape otherwise. Please let me know if you guys have any idea how to fix this or if its just defective and im screwed, as i imagine the customer service from China is going to be crappy. Thanks for any help
 

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skt239

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Member For 4 Years
There should be a warranty card inside the box. Call or email them.
 

blake782

Member For 3 Years
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yeah about to, just imagine that is a longass process and was hoping for some kind of quick fix
 

Paratech

I forgot
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I can see how it could cause it to misfire but don't understand how it's cause your tank to leak.
Anyways, my speculation would be the two screws in the top are either lose or stripped.
In the event they are just lose, you have an easy fix.
If they are stripped, with luck that'll be corrected or replaced if you choose to return it under the recall.
I'm curious.
 

skt239

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Member For 4 Years
Considering the recall they have going, you might have to wait a while to get it repaired. Hopefully it's just loose screws like @Paratech mentioned.
 

blake782

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Member For 1 Year
yeah prob the o-ring i guess on the atlantis since nothing else fixed it up top - screws look okay to me, and there isnt one that looks like it directly hits the area where it is loose. i would try to tighten but sadly i lack a .2mm screwdriver or whatever this thing would take
 

heateris

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
KMG is the warranty service center for Pioneer in the US, very nice people and easy to work with.

http://www.kmg-import.com/ipv-warranty-service-center.html


I sent my 6x into KMG for the recall. It was super easy, the whole process took exactly one week. I can they are very nice and the process was simple.

They just straight replaced my unit. The new one has the reverse battery protection, stronger door, and a three click to lock all the buttons. No way to lock the adjustment buttons. I'm real glad I sent it in. It's a much better device now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I sent my 6x into KMG for the recall. It was super easy, the whole process took exactly one week. I can they are very nice and the process was simple.

They just straight replaced my unit. The new one has the reverse battery protection, stronger door, and a three click to lock all the buttons. No way to lock the adjustment buttons. I'm real glad I sent it in. It's a much better device now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there any way you can check your unit to see if the TCR is working correctly? On mine it doesn't. It doesn't matter what TCR number for SS316L I put, it does not regulate the temp at all. The best way to test it is to dry fire a coil. Mine just glows red every time.
 

heateris

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Is there any way you can check your unit to see if the TCR is working correctly? On mine it doesn't. It doesn't matter what TCR number for SS316L I put, it does not regulate the temp at all. The best way to test it is to dry fire a coil. Mine just glows red every time.

Sure, but I basically have zero experience with temp control. The only temp wire I have is SS 316L 26/32 clapton. If you give me the the exact coil specs (ID, # of wraps, etc) and device settings (Joules, temp, TCR, etc) I'll happily test it for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sure, but I basically have zero experience with temp control. The only temp wire I have is SS 316L 26/32 clapton. If you give me the the exact coil specs (ID, # of wraps, etc) and device settings (Joules, temp, TCR, etc) I'll happily test it for you.


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Thanks heateris, I appreciate it. The coil specs doesn't really matter. As long as you're using the SS 316l clapton wire the test will work. So, first set it to Manual TCR then put in a TCR of 0092 and the Joules to lets say 30 or 40 and temp to about 460. Lock the resistance by holding down both the wattage up and down buttons. Don't add cotton to the coil and then just fire the mod. If the TCR mode works it should prevent the coil from heating up to point to where it glows and it will show "dry coil, No liquid" on the display.

On my unit It doesn't matter what temp or tcr or joules I set it to. Even after I lock the resistance the mod just keeps firing the coil to where it glows red. It never shows the "dry coil" message. After doing more research it seems that this problem is on most if not all of the first batch units.
 
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heateris

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No problem. My stuffs at work, so I'll do it in the morning. IIRC, I have one tank with a dual SS build. I think it's about .3 ohms. Think that's too high?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks again @heateris. That build will work fine.

I'm just trying to decide if I should go through the hassle of returning mine for an exchange. I vape temp control most of the time and the fact that it doesn't work on mine is killing me.
 
Last edited:

chuckpie85

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I'm following this because I just discovered I have the TCR issue as well. Really hoping the recall resolves it. Cmon @heateris please make my day.
 

heateris

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks again @heateris. That build will work fine.

I'm just trying to decide if I should go through the hassle of returning mine for an exchange. I vape temp control most of the time and the fact that it doesn't work on mine is killing me.

So it heated the wire in TCR mode. I switched over to SS316 mode and it said no liquid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So it heated the wire in TCR mode. I switched over to SS316 mode and it said no liquid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks again for doing the test. That totally sucks though. It seems that there is no hope in getting this damn TCR thing to work. So I guess all they fixed in the new batches is the Reverse battery protection and added in the 3 clicks to lock the device.
 
Kind of an old post, but I figured out a fix for the gap between the top cover and case on the IPV6X. Remove your batteries and your tank. Take a T5 screwdriver and remove the two screws on the top. Pull the top cover off slowly as there are wires connected. Inside the case you will see one more screw. Tighten screw or optionally remove the screw, put some the thread lock on the screw then tighten. Re-assemble and it will be fixed... unless the screw or the hole is stripped.
 

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