Question about mech mod + rda - slow vapors?

[Fleshgod]

Hey everyone,

I just started using a mech mod and RDA. I love it so far but I have a concern with it. It takes a while for the vapors to actually happen, I have to hold the switch for a good 5 seconds before vapors start coming out. Does that mean the mod needs cleaning or something? I didn't clean the mod since I've gotten it.

My setup is:
Muertos mech mod (Copper)
Kennedy 22 RDA (Copper)
Sony VTC5 20A
Dual fused clapton coils at 0.42 ohms

Thanks a bunch!!

 

[Train]

With a mech, you trade off a quick response when you use a coil with that much metal to heat up!!
Personally, I'm lucky all my preferences work together: I LIKE the vape from a simple dual coil of pretty thin wire - and the instant heat I get on a mech with it. I HAVE claptons and regulated devices - I just don't like them as much.

Anyway - you either want to pop that Kennedy on something regulated - maybe with a "boost" kind of feature to kick it into gear, or try a lighter weight build.

For instance - with a 1-battery mech, I tend to run SMALL atomizers, and put in dual coils, often 27 gauge for about 0.45 ohms, or in something like a Narda, maybe a single 24 gauge - still nowhere near the MASS of dual fused claptons!

 

[Fleshgod]

Thank you so much for your great reply! That makes plenty of sense. I just find it kind of strange i see some people using alien coils in single battery mech mods and they get vape almost instantly. Maybe i just dont notice they hold the switch down before or something.

 

[Neunerball]

Thank you so much for your great reply! That makes plenty of sense. I just find it kind of strange i see some people using alien coils in single battery mech mods and they get vape almost instantly. Maybe i just dont notice they hold the switch down before or something.

First off, you didn't mention, the specifications of the Claptons you're using. However, unless you use low resistance wire for those Claptons, you will have a problem heating up those coils properly. Those people you see, know what they are doing, knowing Ohm's law, and their batteries. With proper knowledge/experience you can produce coils, that will perform to your expectations.
Safe, low resistance wires for example would be SS, Ni80.

 

[nightshard]

The simple answer is build lower to get higher wattage and faster ramp up time.
Using SS instead of Kanthal is possible.

At 0.42 ohm you're only getting 42W max which is not nearly enough.

Building down to 0.25 will bring you to around 70W max, which is still not optimal but getting there.

If it's still not enough, get some HB6s (30A) and build lower.

I'm for example using a pair of stagger fused 0.2 ohm 120W in my Kennedy24 (regulated).

 

[Fleshgod]

First off, you didn't mention, the specifications of the Claptons you're using.

Sorry I completely forgot to post the specs. So the claptons are 28G kanthal and 38G N80.

Thank you so much for the great replies everyone, it makes plenty of sense. I'm planning on purchasing some VTC4's and I have some alien coils here that are 0.21 ohms, should fire so much better from my understanding.

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

i see some people using alien coils in single battery mech mods and they get vape almost instantly.

Those people know what they are doing.

 

[IMFire3605]

Hey everyone,

I just started using a mech mod and RDA. I love it so far but I have a concern with it. It takes a while for the vapors to actually happen, I have to hold the switch for a good 5 seconds before vapors start coming out. Does that mean the mod needs cleaning or something? I didn't clean the mod since I've gotten it.

My setup is:
Muertos mech mod (Copper)
Kennedy 22 RDA (Copper)
Sony VTC5 20A
Dual fused clapton coils at 0.42 ohms

Thanks a bunch!!

There is a vast difference between a mech and a regulated. With a mech even at full charge on the battery at 4.2v, that is all the gas pedal you have, and this doesn't last long, median vape voltage from the battery is about 3.5 to 3.7v and platues from 4.2 at about 3.9 to 3.7 the longest. More mass of wire in your coils, the longer it takes to heat that mass up or you have to throw a lot of power at the coils, namely voltage or amps, regulated mods can ramp fast because they do it by constant voltage, mechs you have to use the latter, amps. This is where Fused Claptons, juggernaut wire, all your really intricate coil wires suffer with a mech, and a way to compensate is use thinner wire, less intricate wire, and a big factor, a high amp battery, namely a true 30amp, which there are only 3 true 30amps, LG HB2, HB4, and HB6, downside to them is they sacrifce mah (run time) for higher amps this is the balance manufacturers have to deal with, power or run time (energy density).
This is also where all those super thick wires start to nose dive, 24awg (precipice of balance), 22 and especially 20awg, again thicker your wire, that much more battery charge you waste ramping up coils instead of actual vape time. I can get a better vape of a dual parallel or dual twisted or dual basic single core clapton with 24awg or 26awg than most can with a triple core fused or staple fused clapton, about 40% more vape time over those super mass coils, more vapor time = more cloud in a shorter firing time . With a mech, larger coils does not = better vapor or clouds, nor does super low ohm, once you reach that balance point at around 0.3 to 0.25ohm efficiency and safety nose dive as well.

Single basic or single parallel/twisted in a small RDA, great little daily flavor machine.
Dual coil basic, parallel/twisted/basic single core claptons, good balance between flavor, efficiency, vapor
Triple coil = best flavor chaser build
Basic Quad Coil = king of clouding

Its about practice and experimenting, just remember with a single 30amp battery the safety threshold resistance is at about 0.25ohm, dual battery parallel mech box mod it is about 0.14ohm, dual battery series like the noisey cricket it is about 0.56ohm.

1) Mech being copper, good choice
2) RDA aslo copper, good for the conductivity, just watch the internal corrosion or patena inside if it is copper internally, if so I personally wouldn't use it
3) Batteries, to get where you are sounding to wanto to get, those VTC5 being 20amp are not helping, their newer iteration the VTC5A having 25amps and a strong voltage sustainability would serve you better, but nothing on the market in a single battery mech can match an LG HB6 in the quick rapid hard hitting category
4) Coils, on a mech remember this K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid), simpler the coil, the better when cloud chasing. **Stupid is not meant to be insulting or derogatory**

 

[Fleshgod]

There is a vast difference between a mech and a regulated. With a mech even at full charge on the battery at 4.2v, that is all the gas pedal you have, and this doesn't last long, median vape voltage from the battery is about 3.5 to 3.7v and platues from 4.2 at about 3.9 to 3.7 the longest. More mass of wire in your coils, the longer it takes to heat that mass up or you have to throw a lot of power at the coils, namely voltage or amps, regulated mods can ramp fast because they do it by constant voltage, mechs you have to use the latter, amps. This is where Fused Claptons, juggernaut wire, all your really intricate coil wires suffer with a mech, and a way to compensate is use thinner wire, less intricate wire, and a big factor, a high amp battery, namely a true 30amp, which there are only 3 true 30amps, LG HB2, HB4, and HB6, downside to them is they sacrifce mah (run time) for higher amps this is the balance manufacturers have to deal with, power or run time (energy density).
This is also where all those super thick wires start to nose dive, 24awg (precipice of balance), 22 and especially 20awg, again thicker your wire, that much more battery charge you waste ramping up coils instead of actual vape time. I can get a better vape of a dual parallel or dual twisted or dual basic single core clapton with 24awg or 26awg than most can with a triple core fused or staple fused clapton, about 40% more vape time over those super mass coils, more vapor time = more cloud in a shorter firing time . With a mech, larger coils does not = better vapor or clouds, nor does super low ohm, once you reach that balance point at around 0.3 to 0.25ohm efficiency and safety nose dive as well.

Single basic or single parallel/twisted in a small RDA, great little daily flavor machine.
Dual coil basic, parallel/twisted/basic single core claptons, good balance between flavor, efficiency, vapor
Triple coil = best flavor chaser build
Basic Quad Coil = king of clouding

Its about practice and experimenting, just remember with a single 30amp battery the safety threshold resistance is at about 0.25ohm, dual battery parallel mech box mod it is about 0.14ohm, dual battery series like the noisey cricket it is about 0.56ohm.

1) Mech being copper, good choice
2) RDA aslo copper, good for the conductivity, just watch the internal corrosion or patena inside if it is copper internally, if so I personally wouldn't use it
3) Batteries, to get where you are sounding to wanto to get, those VTC5 being 20amp are not helping, their newer iteration the VTC5A having 25amps and a strong voltage sustainability would serve you better, but nothing on the market in a single battery mech can match an LG HB6 in the quick rapid hard hitting category
4) Coils, on a mech remember this K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid), simpler the coil, the better when cloud chasing. **Stupid is not meant to be insulting or derogatory**

This was the response i was looking for. Thank you so much! I actually just went to a vape convention yesterday and I got myself 4 vtc4's and a 0.23 ohms alien coil and holy crap the difference is huge! It hits so hard and i get instant vape. Such a huge difference! Thanks everyone I appreciate all your feedback and advices!

Cheers!

 

[gbalkam]

First off, you didn't mention, the specifications of the Claptons you're using. However, unless you use low resistance wire for those Claptons, you will have a problem heating up those coils properly. Those people you see, know what they are doing, knowing Ohm's law, and their batteries. With proper knowledge/experience you can produce coils, that will perform to your expectations.
Safe, low resistance wires for example would be SS, Ni80.

I prefer NiChrome (80) to SS or Kanthal for just regular old day to day coils. You need less wraps with NiChrome so it tends to heat faster than SS. Kanthal has even more resistance so requires even fewer wraps than NiCh, so you don't get as much vapor. That is just regular old day to day vaping though, nothing fancy. Sometimes a single coil works better than dual on a mech as well. I tend to make my core larger to get more wick and juice while keeping a decent power output to the coil. Dual coil is going to be best but if power is a consideration, that single coil is going to heat faster.

 

[The Cromwell]

Hey everyone,

I just started using a mech mod and RDA. I love it so far but I have a concern with it. It takes a while for the vapors to actually happen, I have to hold the switch for a good 5 seconds before vapors start coming out. Does that mean the mod needs cleaning or something? I didn't clean the mod since I've gotten it.

My setup is:
Muertos mech mod (Copper)
Kennedy 22 RDA (Copper)
Sony VTC5 20A
Dual fused clapton coils at 0.42 ohms

Thanks a bunch!!

You need to drop down to .2-.3 range for faster ramp up and better performance.

 

[Neunerball]

I prefer NiChrome (80) to SS or Kanthal for just regular old day to day coils. You need less wraps with NiChrome so it tends to heat faster than SS. Kanthal has even more resistance so requires even fewer wraps than NiCh, so you don't get as much vapor. That is just regular old day to day vaping though, nothing fancy. Sometimes a single coil works better than dual on a mech as well. I tend to make my core larger to get more wick and juice while keeping a decent power output to the coil. Dual coil is going to be best but if power is a consideration, that single coil is going to heat faster.

I've tried Ni80, but for me it gives a taste that I don't like. Therefore, I mainly use SS316L, occasionally Kanthal. However, I think the OP understood the importance of how a certain wire heats up, and having enough wraps, in order to produce enough (or more) vapor. That's what I like about mech mod's, the challenge of building the right coil(s) for it. Every mech mod needs it's proper coil(s), in order to shine.

 

[MyMagicMist]

For instance - with a 1-battery mech, I tend to run SMALL atomizers, and put in dual coils, often 27 gauge for about 0.45 ohms, or in something like a Narda, maybe a single 24 gauge - still nowhere near the MASS of dual fused claptons!

* scribbles notes, makes short list for Temco purchases * I use the 28awg Kanthal fair enough for dual coils in a 22mm diameter Velocity deck. It normally takes just a wee second or two to ramp up. Now, if I've been hitting the vape a bunch it ramps up nearly instantly. At present each of my coils is reading in at about 1 ohm, that gets me about net .5 ohm. This setup seems to do well for me on one battery. If I use Clapton, I need to recall to only use single coil. One battery just will not push dual Clapton coils.

 

[gbalkam]

One battery just will not push dual Clapton coils.

Has anyone tried using a "kick" (regulates battery to push 4.2v until cut off when the cell reaches 3.4v)?

I think what people need to consider is that a mechanical is an advanced user mod. Most people will be much happier with a regulated mod as far as getting a really good vape is concerned.
Now I see the OP is new to mechs, so this advice.. never buy cheap batteries. SONY, SAMSUNG, LG and 25A or 30A will be better. Mechs like higher CDR regulated like higher MaH. This isn't going to be vital information at this point, but it soon will be. You are going to learn more about using mechanical mods (make sure you only use non-hybrid for safety) and the more you learn the more you will know.. Just have to make sure your batteries keep pace with what you know..

 

[gbalkam]

By the way, keep asking questions as you learn. The more you know, the more we can teach you. In other words, before you try "What happens if I..." ask first. And remember, your batteries, especially in a mech, are either your best friend or worst enemy, so choose your friends wisely. I (we) aren't just trying to make a few extra bucks for battery sellers when we preach on batteries. Batteries can be the difference between buying a new mod or spending months in surgery having your face reconstructed. One accidental hard short on a cheap battery is going to mean disaster. (and another reason I said use non-hybrid mechs) Non-hybrid have a floating 510 pin, like the regulated boxes do. IOW it keeps the negative on the atomizer from accidentally hitting the positive pole on the battery.

Pay special attention to 1:05 to 1:10.
Cause.. inexperienced user, improper mod (hybrid mod was used), improper tank (510 pin shorted) and improper battery. (it blew up rather than vented out)
http://globalnews.ca/news/2479197/alberta-teen-injured-after-he-says-e-cigarette-exploded/

The entire incident could have been easily avoided. But it does go to show why we preach about batteries and safety. You know $2 to $6 more spent on that battery would have saved that teens face. (not to mention, he shouldn't have been there in the first place, since he is under 18)

 

[MyMagicMist]

Has anyone tried using a "kick" (regulates battery to push 4.2v until cut off when the cell reaches 3.4v)?

I think what people need to consider is that a mechanical is an advanced user mod. Most people will be much happier with a regulated mod as far as getting a really good vape is concerned.
Now I see the OP is new to mechs, so this advice.. never buy cheap batteries. SONY, SAMSUNG, LG and 25A or 30A will be better. Mechs like higher CDR regulated like higher MaH. This isn't going to be vital information at this point, but it soon will be. You are going to learn more about using mechanical mods (make sure you only use non-hybrid for safety) and the more you learn the more you will know.. Just have to make sure your batteries keep pace with what you know..

Agreed and ensure you buy what I call butter rubbers. They are silicone covers for your batteries. You need to store them in these battery covers, and transport them in them in your pockets, bags.

I use two of the VTC4 by Sony as batteries. I also have two Efest I bought prior to awareness of their bad practices, one I use only in a volt meter now. I suggest using at least the VCT4 from Sony, they also now have VTC5 & 6 which I might later pick up.

You will also want to learn about battery head space and why it is a good idea to maintain at least 20% head space on a battery. I do not mind that I can only use single coil Clapton on a single battery mech. "It is what it is", no need to go trying to blow myself or others up. I agree that mechs take a bit of learning, a bit of erring on being cautious, having common sense.

Is it worth it to use a mech? Well, everyone has to decide that for themselves. I think it is because I can build the coil/s to suit what I like to vape. I also save money on not buying coil head assemblies that are disposable at best. A built coil could set up on my RDA could possibly last me three to six months, barring any serious physical damage, shorting. The Kanthal is dirt cheap to buy every now and then. I also feel & think I get a fairly decent vaping experience. All in, for me yes the trade off to use mechs is worth it.

ETA: You might want to explore the IMR Batteries site I'm linking to in this post. A few of us consider them to be a reputable vendor of batteries, chargers, cases and battery gear for mods, flashlights, battery operated devices.

 

[r055co]

I run mostly SS Fused Claptons on my Mech's, with a 4.2v Mech I recommend SS with 28g-30g SS core wires and 36g-38g wrapping wire around 0.2 ohms for dual coil. With a Single Coil build around 0.4-0.5 ohms

Nice responsive and satisfying flavorful vape.

 

[r055co]

Has anyone tried using a "kick" (regulates battery to push 4.2v until cut off when the cell reaches 3.4v)?

I think what people need to consider is that a mechanical is an advanced user mod. Most people will be much happier with a regulated mod as far as getting a really good vape is concerned.
Now I see the OP is new to mechs, so this advice.. never buy cheap batteries. SONY, SAMSUNG, LG and 25A or 30A will be better. Mechs like higher CDR regulated like higher MaH. This isn't going to be vital information at this point, but it soon will be. You are going to learn more about using mechanical mods (make sure you only use non-hybrid for safety) and the more you learn the more you will know.. Just have to make sure your batteries keep pace with what you know..

If you Vape under 20w a kick would be fine, anything over that a Kick can't handle it.

 

[r055co]

Since the OP @Fleshgod is a new to Mech's, here's my lecture -

1. Ohm's law, http://www.steam-engine.org/ makes it easy and there's even an app on it for Android
2. Batteries, fucking batteries, take good care of your batteries and know them!!!!!!!!
a. Avoid shit batteries like eFest who rewrap rejects with grossly inflated amp ratings. Stick with authentic LG, Sony or Samsung from reputable (not ebay or amazon) sources, great places to get authentic are from
http://liionwholesale.com/
https://www.imrbatteries.com/
b. Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"
c. Keep up to date with what Mooch tests and battery ratings, follow his posts on Facebook and his Blog
d. In Mod's with multipule batteries, marry them.
e. Get some battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to re-wrap batteries. Any nicks,tears or what ever don't be stupid and just re-wrap.
3. Don't build stupid low a good builder can chuck and get awesome dense vape from a good build. It's simple, with 20 CDR Amp batteries -
a. Single battery mod's you're fine with .2 ohms on up
b. Dual Parallel you're fine with .15 on up. Parallel you take the full CDR of one battery and you can add 1/2 the amp rating of the next battery
c. Series you double the voltage but you share the amp. So a series you build high with a lot of wire, no lower that .4 ohms.
4. Make sure you don't have any shorts. For an extra caution any new build I vape on a regulated mod for a few drips or with a tank about a 1/4 tank. This is to insure nothing wonky with my build or any shorts.
5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button and you pit it in your pocket (which I really don't recommend) insure nothing else is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front jeans pocket and blow your dick off ya know
6. Last but certainly NOT the least, keep it clean! Clean it when you first get it "before" you even use it and clean it on a regular basis.
a. Ultrasonics are a very good investment, got mine off Amazon for around $25.

 

[gbalkam]

Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"

Great post. Just wanted to add Sony LG and Samsung will not have a pulse rating. They don't need to add fake info to make sales.

Pulse rating is meaningless info disreputable vendors put on the battery to make it look "more powerful" but this is misleading. There is no set measurement of what a pulse is. 1 second? 5? 10? Since it isn't a defined value, the information is worthless. New mech users never need to worry about a pulse anyway. Their builds fall within the CDR anyway.

You might see some people saying to "pulse" the coil. This just means a quick fire to heat the coil for tuning / shaping. Basically it is just tapping the fire button to warm the coil.

Once you study ohms law a bit more, you will get a better understanding of why the pulse amp rate is bogus. Quite simply, you tell the battery how many amps it is going to draw when you fire it. So for example a 35A pulse limit on a 20A battery is bogus and not a safe build for new users, since it is 75% over the listed CDR. CDR is important because the higher the amperage you pull, the faster your battery heats up. The faster the battery heats, the greater the risk that it will vent or go boom.

 

[gbalkam]

I run mostly SS Fused Claptons on my Mech's, with a 4.2v Mech I recommend SS with 28g-30g SS core wires and 36g-38g wrapping wire around 0.2 ohms for dual coil. With a Single Coil build around 0.4-0.5 ohms

Nice responsive and satisfying flavorful vape.

LOL I couldn't even see a 36g wire to wrap it. I would need a brain surgeons surgical table to work on that. I think my twisted mind has kinked my eye stalks or something.

 

[r055co]

LOL I couldn't even see a 36g wire to wrap it. I would need a brain surgeons surgical table to work on that. I think my twisted mind has kinked my eye stalks or something.

Works great

 

[Fleshgod]

Hey guys, sorry it took so long to reply!

Thank you all for the amazing replies and advices. So i've been using my mech's for more than a month now, I am currently using my hanged + unholy mod/rda combo. Thing hits like a god damn freight train LOL. I currently have a 0.11 ohm build in there (some nice aliens) with VTC4. I feel comfortable-ish going down to 0.1 with vtc4's so far but that's as low as I'll go. @ro55co said that filipino mods are awesome and addicting, so I went and ordered my first parallel mod, the ballistic by MCV philippines with the warhead RDA by MCV philippines. I've heard most people go to 0.1 - 0.15 ohms on it. I need to get some new batteries for the mod to marry them. Some people recommend 25r's over VTC4's. It would be nice if VTC5's were rated at 30A instead of 20, but VTC4's are fine, they just die quicker. I was wondering if you guys had recommendations for which batteries I should get for that beast of a mod.

Thanks a bunch guys and cheers!

 

[Whiskey]

Even though multi topic here, moved to Mech mod area

 

[BoomStick]

Didn't notice anyone addressing your statement about not cleaning your gear. CLEAN YOUR SHIT! Should be the first thing you do. Take it completely apart and clean it. Then do it regularly. How often is something you'll have to determine based on how it looks when you take it apart and consider how long it's been since the last cleaning.

 

[r055co]

Hey guys, sorry it took so long to reply!

Thank you all for the amazing replies and advices. So i've been using my mech's for more than a month now, I am currently using my hanged + unholy mod/rda combo. Thing hits like a god damn freight train LOL. I currently have a 0.11 ohm build in there (some nice aliens) with VTC4. I feel comfortable-ish going down to 0.1 with vtc4's so far but that's as low as I'll go. @ro55co said that filipino mods are awesome and addicting, so I went and ordered my first parallel mod, the ballistic by MCV philippines with the warhead RDA by MCV philippines. I've heard most people go to 0.1 - 0.15 ohms on it. I need to get some new batteries for the mod to marry them. Some people recommend 25r's over VTC4's. It would be nice if VTC5's were rated at 30A instead of 20, but VTC4's are fine, they just die quicker. I was wondering if you guys had recommendations for which batteries I should get for that beast of a mod.

Thanks a bunch guys and cheers!

Sony VTC5A, great balance of amps and battery life, 25a and 2600 mAh.

 

[r055co]

Didn't notice anyone addressing your statement about not cleaning your gear. CLEAN YOUR SHIT! Should be the first thing you do. Take it completely apart and clean it. Then do it regularly. How often is something you'll have to determine based on how it looks when you take it apart and consider how long it's been since the last cleaning.

Already noted -

Since the OP @Fleshgod is a new to Mech's, here's my lecture -

<snip>
6. Last but certainly NOT the least, keep it clean! Clean it when you first get it "before" you even use it and clean it on a regular basis.
a. Ultrasonics are a very good investment, got mine off Amazon for around $25.

 

[gbalkam]

Hey guys, sorry it took so long to reply!

Thank you all for the amazing replies and advices. So i've been using my mech's for more than a month now, I am currently using my hanged + unholy mod/rda combo. Thing hits like a god damn freight train LOL. I currently have a 0.11 ohm build in there (some nice aliens) with VTC4. I feel comfortable-ish going down to 0.1 with vtc4's so far but that's as low as I'll go. @ro55co said that filipino mods are awesome and addicting, so I went and ordered my first parallel mod, the ballistic by MCV philippines with the warhead RDA by MCV philippines. I've heard most people go to 0.1 - 0.15 ohms on it. I need to get some new batteries for the mod to marry them. Some people recommend 25r's over VTC4's. It would be nice if VTC5's were rated at 30A instead of 20, but VTC4's are fine, they just die quicker. I was wondering if you guys had recommendations for which batteries I should get for that beast of a mod.

Thanks a bunch guys and cheers!

Nevermind what you "hear" most people do. You need to know what your batteries can do and how long they can do it for. Also most people build at double their normal resistance on a parallel. Ie.. 0.15 on a single cell, 0.3 on a parallel. Series stack voltage, parallel stacks amps. In other words, you have more amps to power your coil, so you don't need to build lower. .1 ohm on a parallel is like 0.05 ohm on a single cell. I'm new to dual cell mods, so I might be a bit off. I was looking at getting one, but decided not to after doing a bit more research.

 

[r055co]

Nevermind what you "hear" most people do. You need to know what your batteries can do and how long they can do it for. Also most people build at double their normal resistance on a parallel. Ie.. 0.15 on a single cell, 0.3 on a parallel. Series stack voltage, parallel stacks amps. In other words, you have more amps to power your coil, so you don't need to build lower. .1 ohm on a parallel is like 0.05 ohm on a single cell. I'm new to dual cell mods, so I might be a bit off. I was looking at getting one, but decided not to after doing a bit more research.

Depends on the battery, Sony VTC5A or a LG 30a is perfectly fine and safe with a 0.1 ohm build, he'll be drawing around 40a.

 

[BoomStick]

Already noted -

Reinforced then.

 

[r055co]

Hey guys, sorry it took so long to reply!

Thank you all for the amazing replies and advices. So i've been using my mech's for more than a month now, I am currently using my hanged + unholy mod/rda combo. Thing hits like a god damn freight train LOL. I currently have a 0.11 ohm build in there (some nice aliens) with VTC4. I feel comfortable-ish going down to 0.1 with vtc4's so far but that's as low as I'll go. @ro55co said that filipino mods are awesome and addicting, so I went and ordered my first parallel mod, the ballistic by MCV philippines with the warhead RDA by MCV philippines. I've heard most people go to 0.1 - 0.15 ohms on it. I need to get some new batteries for the mod to marry them. Some people recommend 25r's over VTC4's. It would be nice if VTC5's were rated at 30A instead of 20, but VTC4's are fine, they just die quicker. I was wondering if you guys had recommendations for which batteries I should get for that beast of a mod.

Thanks a bunch guys and cheers!

Additionally I wouldn't go that low on a VTC4, it's only a 23a battery. Lowest I go with VTC4's on a single mod is 0.18 "maybe" 0.16.

If you battery get's hot it's a bad sign, always pay attention to the heat of the battery!

 

[gbalkam]

Depends on the battery, Sony VTC5A or a LG 30a is perfectly fine and safe with a 0.1 ohm build, he'll be drawing around 40a.

Yeah, i tend to err on the side of caution on new mods. But then, I also take my battery out for a temp check every 3 pulls at least until I have 9 pulls on the build.

 

[r055co]

Yeah, i tend to err on the side of caution on new mods. But then, I also take my battery out for a temp check every 3 pulls at least until I have 9 pulls on the build.

yep!

Per Mooch with parallel you add the total amps of the batteries then take off at least 15%, safer actually to go 20%. This is for safety reasons.

For the general Newbie though it's best to recommend total amp of the first then 1/2 the amps of each of the consecutive battery/batteries. But @Fleshgod here has been doing their homework.

 

[gbalkam]

yep!

Per Mooch with parallel you add the total amps of the batteries then take off at least 15%, safer actually to go 20%. This is for safety reasons.

For the general Newbie though it's best to recommend total amp of the first then 1/2 the amps of each of the consecutive battery/batteries. But @Fleshgod here has been doing their homework.

Good that he did his homework To many lazy cloud jockies. lol. I used to be in another forum and members got all pissy because I wouldn't tell them the whole answer, some things you have to make the user look up and learn. It doesn't do them any good for me to know what the internal chemistry of a battery is, in regards to battery heating up. Or what the stress test on the battery is. They have to know how to find that for themselves.

 

[rolf 2]

nvm

 

[gbalkam]

Thank you so much for your great reply! That makes plenty of sense. I just find it kind of strange i see some people using alien coils in single battery mech mods and they get vape almost instantly. Maybe i just dont notice they hold the switch down before or something.

Did you notice them blowing out before inhaling? Also, they are using higher gauge wire, wrapped with even higher ga wire.Usually a 2 or 3 stand parallel to get resistance down and wattage up.

 

[Fleshgod]

Thanks everyone again, yeah I find it better to do your research before actually trying to make builds and see how much amperage the battery can draw, I don't wanna get blown up lol. It's like in school, you listen, but when you do homework or study, you make your own research which I find you learn more that way.

Anyways enough with the rant lol. I was wondering if you guys knew a reliable source to get VTC5A's? I would love to get my hands on some!

 

[gbalkam]

Thanks everyone again, yeah I find it better to do your research before actually trying to make builds and see how much amperage the battery can draw, I don't wanna get blown up lol. It's like in school, you listen, but when you do homework or study, you make your own research which I find you learn more that way.

Anyways enough with the rant lol. I was wondering if you guys knew a reliable source to get VTC5A's? I would love to get my hands on some!

Best place is your local vape shop, but they may have to order them in. You might be interested in this though...
http://vaping360.com/top-5-18650-batteries-for-vaping/
lots of info on batteries and some vendor recommended by Mooch.

 

[r055co]

Thanks everyone again, yeah I find it better to do your research before actually trying to make builds and see how much amperage the battery can draw, I don't wanna get blown up lol. It's like in school, you listen, but when you do homework or study, you make your own research which I find you learn more that way.

Anyways enough with the rant lol. I was wondering if you guys knew a reliable source to get VTC5A's? I would love to get my hands on some!

Best place I've found and where I source my batteries from are Imrbatteries.com or Liionwholesale.com they can be trusted. They also work with Mooch.

Best place is your local vape shop, but they may have to order them in. You might be interested in this though...
http://vaping360.com/top-5-18650-batteries-for-vaping/
lots of info on batteries and some vendor recommended by Mooch.

Disagree with your local Vape Shop, only for a select few most push pipe bomb eFest, Imren, etc. Not all but most and they are expensive. Local B&M I hang out at though sell only legitimate LG or Samsung, but they are the exception.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[gbalkam]

lol.. oh.. I only use one vape shop. I found a dependable one and stick with it.

 

[Fleshgod]

Best place I've found and where I source my batteries from are Imrbatteries.com or Liionwholesale.com they can be trusted. They also work with Mooch.

Disagree with your local Vape Shop, only for a select few most push pipe bomb eFest, Imren, etc. Not all but most and they are expensive. Local B&M I hang out at though sell only legitimate LG or Samsung, but they are the exception.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the links! Definitely gonna check those out! The local vape shop i usually go to only sell shitty efest batteries (40amps my ass ). The other local shop I go to sells 25r's and VTC4's, but I want some batteries that can handle my lower builds better like 0.1 ohms. I know VTC4's can take that but it's really pushing it, they tend to get a little on the warm side and arc.

 

[gbalkam]

Thanks for the links! Definitely gonna check those out! The local vape shop i usually go to only sell shitty efest batteries (40amps my ass ). The other local shop I go to sells 25r's and VTC4's, but I want some batteries that can handle my lower builds better like 0.1 ohms. I know VTC4's can take that but it's really pushing it, they tend to get a little on the warm side and arc.

Ok if they are arcing, you need to find out why. Arcing is the first warning of a battery going thermal. In other words, instead of current running from one end to the other, current runs to some where in the middle of the battery, changing the internal resistance and chemistry, and speeds up the electrons (since the internal resistance is lower) and cause more heat compounding the problem.

The 25rs and vtc4s will handle lower builds, but until you get that arcing in check, stay above 0.15. The lower you build, the more ramp up you need, so quite often a higher resistance build is actually better. For example, 15.5 ohm will get you a nice set of parallel claptons. two 26ga base wires on a 3.5mm id wrapped in 32ga stainless steel. Should be 5 wraps each coil. Total of 20 wraps. (10 per coil, since you use parallel wires) Adding a 6th wrap would be even better. I would rather suggest a build at 0.15 ohm than just set you loose playing with 0.1 ohm coils that are arcing. You could even use 28ga wire as your core, which would raise your resistance even more.

What I am concerned most about, is why is your build arcing? That is a real problem. Building good coils is the first step. All you need is your coil to arc, drop your resistance down to 0.00 ohms and end up going thermal. Dude, I'm serious here. I vape all day on a regulated mod, but I build competition coils on my mech. You just don't build that low unless your coils are perfect and you know your mod, atomizer and batteries inside and out. A 0.10 ohm build on a mech is an expert build, and since you are asking if this or that build is safe, I'm guessing you are not an expert. Don't take chances. You will get there eventually, as you learn more. Just don't rush into something that could be life altering. Look at that kid that ended up blind for life when his mod popped..

By the way.. competitions usually have different classes, such as single cell and dual cell mechs, and 100, 200, 300+ watt catagories. My 200w coils will stomp the hell out of a cloud beast. I'm talking like 44 wraps across 2 coils.. Half the problem is not choking on the cloud.

 

[gbalkam]

I run mostly SS Fused Claptons on my Mech's, with a 4.2v Mech I recommend SS with 28g-30g SS core wires and 36g-38g wrapping wire around 0.2 ohms for dual coil. With a Single Coil build around 0.4-0.5 ohms

Nice responsive and satisfying flavorful vape.

Just re-reading this thread. Try using NiChrome as your core wires. It heats faster than stainless steel, which heats the outer wrap faster. And it will raise the resistance a bit making your coil faster.

 

[r055co]

Just re-reading this thread. Try using NiChrome as your core wires. It heats faster than stainless steel, which heats the outer wrap faster. And it will raise the resistance a bit making your coil faster.

I don't like the taste of NiChrome, IMO SS has a much better flavor and it has an excellent ramp up and cool down. SS is very responsive on Mech's and provides excellent flavor. If I was a Clouds Bro then maybe Ni80 would be appealing, flavor is where it's it for me.

 

[gbalkam]

Deja vu.
Forgot it was you i mentioned that to before. I like the flavor from ss better, but I like the flavor from the NiChrome AND SS better. But that's me, and we all vape differently.

 

[gbalkam]

I'm vaping a coil at 0.38 ohm right now, single coil on a 4.0mm core. WHOOO HOOOO lol.. i can't even see my computer screen. Running 70-80w
You don't have to build low to get results.

 

[r055co]

I'm vaping a coil at 0.38 ohm right now, single coil on a 4.0mm core. WHOOO HOOOO lol.. i can't even see my computer screen. Running 70-80w
You don't have to build low to get results.

Nope, been thoroughly enjoying Single coils on my freshly built Ammit 0.28, Alpha One 0.41 and Kayfun V5 0.8 ohms tonight, all SS Fused Clapton.

Nice, tasty and the Ammit and Alpha One are both chucking some respectable plumage

 

[r055co]

On my Copper Tube Mech's of course

 

[gbalkam]

The simple answer is build lower to get higher wattage and faster ramp up time.
Using SS instead of Kanthal is possible.

At 0.42 ohm you're only getting 42W max which is not nearly enough.

Building down to 0.25 will bring you to around 70W max, which is still not optimal but getting there.

If it's still not enough, get some HB6s (30A) and build lower.

I'm for example using a pair of stagger fused 0.2 ohm 120W in my Kennedy24 (regulated).

Are you sure about the SS? Higher resistance wire heats faster, more 'friction' from the electrons passing through.
What I came up with is dual parallel claptons (5 wraps), with 28ga nichrome core (on a 3.5mm id core) and I wrapped mine in 32ga SS, since I can't even see anything smaller. lol. SS absorbs the heat from the core wire faster though. The resistance comes out to 0.235 ohm but if that is to low for comfort, add an extra wrap.

Here is the build..
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?mat=n80&p=roundmulti&s=dp&r=0.235&hfnw=72&str=2&awg=28&id=3.5

 

[r055co]

Are you sure about the SS? Higher resistance wire heats faster, more 'friction' from the electrons passing through.
What I came up with is dual parallel claptons (5 wraps), with 28ga nichrome core (on a 3.5mm id core) and I wrapped mine in 32ga SS, since I can't even see anything smaller. lol. SS absorbs the heat from the core wire faster though. The resistance comes out to 0.235 ohm but if that is to low for comfort, add an extra wrap.

Here is the build..
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?mat=n80&p=roundmulti&s=dp&r=0.235&hfnw=72&str=2&awg=28&id=3.5

It does not a Mech and that's the context of this thread