Quick cherry bomber mech mod HELP!!

[icharliex]

I need a quick simple bit of help.
I just ordered the playboy vixen mini subtank to go on my cherry bomber mech mod but it says you can use it on mech mods but not hybrid mods because of shorting.
Is the cherry bomber mech mod a hybrid??
Thanks,

 

[hogheadv]

No

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[hogheadv]

A true hybrid has no 510 connection. A faux hybrid has no center pin so the atty directly touches the battery. A cherry bomber has a normal 510 connection with a center pin

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[icharliex]

A true hybrid has no 510 connection. A faux hybrid has no center pin so the atty directly touches the battery. A cherry bomber has a normal 510 connection with a center pin

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Ok thanks for the help I had a rough thought on what a hybrid was and I was pretty sure a cherry bomber isn't one but better safe than sorro
☺ Thanks

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[SaintSkinny51792]

Speaking of safe and sorry, Be careful with that cherry bomber! if you touch anything conductive to the mod body and the metal on the atomizer it will start firing, even with the button locked! saw this on youtube today and im glad i never got the cherry bomber i was loooking at. not saying its a bad mod, I wouldnt know, Just thought you may want the warning

 

[icharliex]

Speaking of safe and sorry, Be careful with that cherry bomber! if you touch anything conductive to the mod body and the metal on the atomizer it will start firing, even with the button locked! saw this on youtube today and im glad i never got the cherry bomber i was loooking at. not saying its a bad mod, I wouldnt know, Just thought you may want the warning

Thanks for the warning, I am aware of this but I do only use my cherry bomber in certain occasions or when I'm around the house otherwise I would rather use a variable regulated mod and a subtank

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[SaintSkinny51792]

alright just wanted to make sure, seems like it could cause some serious trouble if your not lucky...

 

[valkarst57]

Speaking of safe and sorry, Be careful with that cherry bomber! if you touch anything conductive to the mod body and the metal on the atomizer it will start firing, even with the button locked! saw this on youtube today and im glad i never got the cherry bomber i was loooking at. not saying its a bad mod, I wouldnt know, Just thought you may want the warning

would buying the wooden cherry bomber fix this problem or is the problem on the inside of the mod?

 

[SaintSkinny51792]

would buying the wooden cherry bomber fix this problem or is the problem on the inside of the mod?

That wouldnt be an issue on the wooden. Wood is an Insulator so the electricity wont flow through the body like the metal one. there may be a metal box on the inside thats all ground (not sure) but that wouldnt cause the problem I was referring to, your safe bud!

 

[conanthewarrior]

A true hybrid has no 510 connection. A faux hybrid has no center pin so the atty directly touches the battery. A cherry bomber has a normal 510 connection with a center pin

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Hi there, sorry to sound Naive, but I understand a Hybrid has no 510 connection, and you say a faux hybrid has no centre pin to directly touch the battery-isn't this what hybrids do?

I have a much larger collection of regulated mods than mechs, and I don't own any hybrids, so I was just wondering the difference between a true hybrid and a faux hybrid.

 

[freemind]

Hi there, sorry to sound Naive, but I understand a Hybrid has no 510 connection, and you say a faux hybrid has no centre pin to directly touch the battery-isn't this what hybrids do?

I have a much larger collection of regulated mods than mechs, and I don't own any hybrids, so I was just wondering the difference between a true hybrid and a faux hybrid.

I think they have a case of "newbie with a case of I'm an internet expert".
There is no such thing as a faux hybrid.
A hybrid mod is a hybrid mod. Don't mind the ones talking out their ass. You find this often in the mech threads.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I think they have a case of "newbie with a case of I'm an internet expert".
There is no such thing as a faux hybrid.
A hybrid mod is a hybrid mod. Don't mind the ones talking out their ass. You find this often in the mech threads.

Ahh. I thought it was a little odd-I had never heard of a 'Faux' hybrid. So there is either a mech with a standard 510 connection(All my mechs), or one direct to the battery-a hybrid. No 'Faux' hybrids.

Thanks for clearing that up .

 

[conanthewarrior]

This thread made me dig out my most unused mech, and I am really questioning WHY it is my most unused.

It is a Abaddon, Dual parallel, and god, it hits the hardest out of all of my mechs! More so than my nemesis's, my tree of life and corsair 26650, it beats them all.
It was in a bag, I think I must of actually just forgot about it, but using it, has made me remember how fun a mech can be.

Not even a low build on it, a single coil fused clapton at 0.45, but it is chucking loads, flavour is great, and I think I have a new favourite mech . (Well not new, but you know what I mean lol)

I think you might see me a bit more in the mech section from now on due to this

 

[hogheadv]

Hi there, sorry to sound Naive, but I understand a Hybrid has no 510 connection, and you say a faux hybrid has no centre pin to directly touch the battery-isn't this what hybrids do?

I have a much larger collection of regulated mods than mechs, and I don't own any hybrids, so I was just wondering the difference between a true hybrid and a faux hybrid.

I have read, and I am not saying I agree one way or the other, but most people call a faux hybrid a mod with a top cap that has 510 threading but no center pin so the atty connects directly to the battery and a true hybrid as a mod that has no top cap and the atty connects to the tube using the treading that would normally be used for the top cap.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I have read, and I am not saying I agree one way or the other, but most people call a faux hybrid a mod with a top cap that has 510 threading but no center pin so the atty connects directly to the battery and a true hybrid as a mod that has no top cap and the atty connects to the tube using the treading that would normally be used for the top cap.

Do you have an example of such a Hybrid?
I think I understand what you are saying, but would this mean essentially that only the RDA that mech came with would work with it, as having no top cap and 510 threading would mean it would have to screw at the edges of the RDA?

I may be misunderstanding what you are saying, if I am I apologise, I just never have seen an example of this myself-I am more into regulated mods though, so I am not saying it is not possible, just I haven't seen one myself.

 

[hogheadv]

Do you have an example of such a Hybrid?
I think I understand what you are saying, but would this mean essentially that only the RDA that mech came with would work with it, as having no top cap and 510 threading would mean it would have to screw at the edges of the RDA?

I may be misunderstanding what you are saying, if I am I apologise, I just never have seen an example of this myself-I am more into regulated mods though, so I am not saying it is not possible, just I haven't seen one myself.

Yes exactly

 

[hogheadv]

 

[conanthewarrior]

Yes exactly

Ahh, cool. I haven't come across something like that-it is different, but I like changing around my RDA's quite a lot, so if I was to get a hybrid, it would be the type with a top cap, I think if the atty is directly touching the battery-it is a hybrid. Some may refer to it as a 'faux' hybrid like you say,I have no reason to doubt people do, but essentially, they work the same don't they?

I don't own a hybrid for the simple reason I don't feel the safest with the direct to battery connection, I would be worried I would not have enough of the 510 pin sticking out, and potential short issues.

I am probably worrying over nothing though, and would be fine, but I like to feel safe with what I am using if I am honest-today I have been having lots of fun after finding my Abaddon, I forgot just how fun a mech could be .

EDIT: I realise that actually, this type of hybrid would be the style I would feel safest using, as I know I can't change to a RDA with too little of the centre pin sticking out, causing a short.

I am going to look into these more, as I am really enjoying a couple of my mechs at the moment, and it makes a change from regulated mods.

 

[Zamazam]

I have a Vicious Ant Valkyrie, which it a true hybrid. Once piece tube with the RDA milled in, the only parts that come off are the top cap and the switch. Hits incredibly well and is a great flavor dripper. Not a cloud blaster, but a flavor master.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I have a Vicious Ant Valkyrie, which it a true hybrid. Once piece tube with the RDA milled in, the only parts that come off are the top cap and the switch. Hits incredibly well and is a great flavor dripper. Not a cloud blaster, but a flavor master.

Thinking about it-this is probably the sort of hybrid I WOULD feel safe using, as I know I can't swap to a RDA with too little positive sticking out.

I am more into flavour than clouds myself, don't get me wrong, I like a nice cloud, but if I had to choose, it would be less cloud with more flavour.
I will have to look into these style mechs more. What type of build do you tend to use in it?

 

[Zamazam]

I use a dual 3mm Tyger that comes in at .18, use a 30 amp LG HB2 in it. VTC4's too. You can get them now for a decent price for an authentic, I think you could score a new one for 25-30 quid if you looked around. The clones probably at 10-15 quid.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I use a dual 3mm Tyger that comes in at .18, use a 30 amp LG HB2 in it. VTC4's too. You can get them now for a decent price for an authentic, I think you could score a new one for 25-30 quid if you looked around. The clones probably at 10-15 quid.

That is not a bad price at all, I would actually pay 25-30 quid for a genuine mech, I always thought they was much more for some reason.
And nice man, I usually make my own coils but I recently got loads of ones I couldn't make, such as Tiger coils-they come in at around 0.35 each, 3MM, so probably would work out around the same resistance, I would check obviously though on a meter.

I don't own any HB2's-seeing as I am quite enjoying mechs, do you think they are a worthy purchase?
Also, sorry to ask you directly as I made a thread about it, but no replies, but what do you recommend to get my mechs working their best E.G cleaning connections ETC, as using my Abaddon clone today was so different to my other mechs, it had instant power and great production-is it possible to get my tube mechs working like this, or is it due to the Abaddon being dual parallel?

Thanks mate.

 

[Zamazam]

LG HB2's are True 30 amp batteries, but they are 1500-1600 Mah. If you have a bunch of VTC4's, or VTC3's those are also good. A .18 build will draw 23 amps at 4.2V, so a 30 amp batt is in order.

I have a bunch of HB2's, cycle through a couple during the day when I am sub-ohming with a dripper. They are great batteries.

 

[conanthewarrior]

LG HB2's are True 30 amp batteries, but they are 1500-1600 Mah. If you have a bunch of VTC4's, or VTC3's those are also good. A .18 build will draw 23 amps at 4.2V, so a 30 amp batt is in order.

I have a bunch of HB2's, cycle through a couple during the day when I am sub-ohming with a dripper. They are great batteries.

I do have some genuine VTC4's, so I can always use them for if I want to go low. I may need too.

I was just wondering really, on my dual parallel Abaddon, a 0.45 build is really chucking and full of flavour, a single fused clapton, which in perfect circumstances would be pulling around 39 watts and about 10.5A-but obviously conditions are never perfect.

I was wondering, if it is possible to get my 26650 and 18650 mods, performing anywhere near as good as the Abaddon, or is it simply due to it being dual parallel it is performing better?

Or is there a recommended solvent for cleaning mechs? Coming from the regulated world, into mechs, is a bit different-don't get me wrong, I have been doing it for a while, but didn't realise how good it can really be until yesterday.

If I am honest, they HB2's won't last me very long at all, so I think VTC4's will be my best bet, and I already have a few new ones, so thats a bonus too.

This is more of a safety question really-I always got told, by people who are very knowledgeable, that with a battery like the 25R, a couple of amps won't matter-although I don't really feel safe building to this. I know its specification, its pulse limits, but I still don't feel confident, so I think the VTC4's will be a better bet.

Thanks for your help man, Conan.

 

[Zamazam]

I keep my builds within the tolerances of the batteries constant discharge rate for safety. A cleaner I use on my mech's which removes oxidation and all the crud that builds up is called "Bar Keepers Friend" liquid cleaner (soft scrub) https://www.barkeepersfriend.com/

Just make sure to wear rubber gloves when using it. It is aggressive.

 

[SaintSkinny51792]

if your using copper ketchup will take the patina off in a few seconds... if you dont mind the smell

 

[Yellowhorse]

The MCV Cherry Bomber uses a standard floating pin 510 connector and is NOT a 'hybrid'. You are good to go.
Note: hybrid mods are dangerous. ANY high amperage mod that uses the battery contacts (positive or negative) to make (close) or break (open) the circuit is extremely dangerous and has FAIL written all over it. I wouldn't use a hybrid or any other mechanical mod that operates this way on a bet.

Vape safe.