I got a IPV3 LI with 2 LG 3000mah batteries "brown ones" ....I'm using a Alliance V2 rda with 26ga tiger wire with dual coils and I got a resistance of .13ohms.....is that too low of a build on this mod I know in regular Kanthol mode its stable to .10ohms but don't to cut it to close to the capability of the mod just trying to vape safe.... Thanks for any help
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Quick question
- Thread starter DougieFresh
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The IPV3 is a series regulated box mod. The batteries are stacked, meaning it operates at a base voltage of 8.4v. The implications of this are major. What you're thinking of only applies to unregulated mods, where the coil directly pulls current from the batteries. Regulated mods are a bit more complex and do not operate like that.
Because of how that type of mod converts and transfers power, resistance doesn't matter. If the mod will allow you to fire it, then it is perfectly safe to run. The power it pulls and the power it gives are very different.
If you want to bear with me and hopefully learn something pretty nifty about your mod, then read on. If not, then skip to the last four paragraphs. Quick question, LONG answer. I will try to keep it simple for ya!
There are two distinct phases in the circuitry of your mod. Let's call them the "input phase" and "output phase."
The input phase comes first. The coil isn't yet part of the circuit during this stage... ...in fact there is no resistor in the circuit at all, so ohms law doesn't apply here. The batteries are essentially isolated from the coil end of things.
At whatever voltage the batteries are pushing, the device will draw the current it needs to give you the desired wattage (plus a little extra that the output circuit needs to function.) So, for example, if you set your IPV3 to 150w, then it will pull around 20 amps from fresh batteries (8.4v,) every time. Doesn't matter if your coil is 1 ohm or 0.1 ohms. That is what the batteries will provide, regardless of anything else.
This also means that as your battery voltage goes down, the amount of current the device will need to pull goes up. So if your batteries have dipped to say... ...6.5v, then they will now need to give 25A to hit 150w instead of the 20A that was needed when they were kicking out 8v.
The output phase is where the coil comes into play. That same 150w @ 8v that the chip has pulled straight from the batteries goes into something called a buck converter. A buck converter's job is to take voltage and turn it into current. Bear in mind that no more than 5-10 percent of the power is lost when the voltage is reduced by a buck converter - it merely changes form. When you go from 8v to 4v, the wattage doesn't change!
The chip takes a reading of the atty's resistance and tells the converter to allow the necessary amount of current to accumulate as per ohms law. So if you drop a .1 on there, ohm's law dictates that you must pump in 38A @ 3.9v into it in order to get 150w - the coil will always need to draw that much current at that exact voltage in order to hit 150w. And that is what the box will give.
Ordinarily, 38A would be far too much for any 3.7v 18650 lithium battery to handle, but fortunately, the buck converter makes it unnecessary to actually pull 38A from the batteries. Through it, the 166w your batteries give as 20A @ 8v becomes 150w as 38A @ 3.9V. Essentially, what it has done is used the batteries' excess voltage to get more current to the coil than the batteries are able to provide. This makes mods like yours pretty much idiot-proof when it comes to building. It is literally impossible to fry batteries with a coil on a functional series regulated mod.
It all boils down to your wattage setting, not your resistance. With that particular mod, wattage is what determines how much amp draw your batteries will see. Those LG HG2's of yours are fine batteries and certainly can handle up to 150w, but that's going to be pushing the limits of what they can take... ...increasingly more so as the charge depletes. You'll be maxing them out to the full 20A when they're fresh, while you'll be pulling 25-28 amps by the time they need to be changed.
Probably best not to go any higher than 130w with them. I wouldn't say it's super-dangerous to go higher, but it is going to tear into those batteries very quickly.
You'll get much better performance and lifespan at 125w and below. If you plan to use the max wattage often, then you would be better off with Sony VTC4's (preferably 3's,) LG HB2's, or Samsung 25r's. Though the VTC4's and 25r's are also 20A batteries like your LG's, they run cooler and generally tolerate high-drain better.
If you want to calculate amp draw and output for yourself, Steam Engine has a handy tool for doing so. Just use the "regulated" mode, set it to "wattage," put "8.4v" as the battery voltage, and plug-in the numbers. The light-blue table tells you what hits the atty, while the dark blue one tells you what is coming from the batteries. Lemme know if you need more help using it.
Because of how that type of mod converts and transfers power, resistance doesn't matter. If the mod will allow you to fire it, then it is perfectly safe to run. The power it pulls and the power it gives are very different.
If you want to bear with me and hopefully learn something pretty nifty about your mod, then read on. If not, then skip to the last four paragraphs. Quick question, LONG answer. I will try to keep it simple for ya!
There are two distinct phases in the circuitry of your mod. Let's call them the "input phase" and "output phase."
The input phase comes first. The coil isn't yet part of the circuit during this stage... ...in fact there is no resistor in the circuit at all, so ohms law doesn't apply here. The batteries are essentially isolated from the coil end of things.
At whatever voltage the batteries are pushing, the device will draw the current it needs to give you the desired wattage (plus a little extra that the output circuit needs to function.) So, for example, if you set your IPV3 to 150w, then it will pull around 20 amps from fresh batteries (8.4v,) every time. Doesn't matter if your coil is 1 ohm or 0.1 ohms. That is what the batteries will provide, regardless of anything else.
This also means that as your battery voltage goes down, the amount of current the device will need to pull goes up. So if your batteries have dipped to say... ...6.5v, then they will now need to give 25A to hit 150w instead of the 20A that was needed when they were kicking out 8v.
The output phase is where the coil comes into play. That same 150w @ 8v that the chip has pulled straight from the batteries goes into something called a buck converter. A buck converter's job is to take voltage and turn it into current. Bear in mind that no more than 5-10 percent of the power is lost when the voltage is reduced by a buck converter - it merely changes form. When you go from 8v to 4v, the wattage doesn't change!
The chip takes a reading of the atty's resistance and tells the converter to allow the necessary amount of current to accumulate as per ohms law. So if you drop a .1 on there, ohm's law dictates that you must pump in 38A @ 3.9v into it in order to get 150w - the coil will always need to draw that much current at that exact voltage in order to hit 150w. And that is what the box will give.
Ordinarily, 38A would be far too much for any 3.7v 18650 lithium battery to handle, but fortunately, the buck converter makes it unnecessary to actually pull 38A from the batteries. Through it, the 166w your batteries give as 20A @ 8v becomes 150w as 38A @ 3.9V. Essentially, what it has done is used the batteries' excess voltage to get more current to the coil than the batteries are able to provide. This makes mods like yours pretty much idiot-proof when it comes to building. It is literally impossible to fry batteries with a coil on a functional series regulated mod.
It all boils down to your wattage setting, not your resistance. With that particular mod, wattage is what determines how much amp draw your batteries will see. Those LG HG2's of yours are fine batteries and certainly can handle up to 150w, but that's going to be pushing the limits of what they can take... ...increasingly more so as the charge depletes. You'll be maxing them out to the full 20A when they're fresh, while you'll be pulling 25-28 amps by the time they need to be changed.
Probably best not to go any higher than 130w with them. I wouldn't say it's super-dangerous to go higher, but it is going to tear into those batteries very quickly.
You'll get much better performance and lifespan at 125w and below. If you plan to use the max wattage often, then you would be better off with Sony VTC4's (preferably 3's,) LG HB2's, or Samsung 25r's. Though the VTC4's and 25r's are also 20A batteries like your LG's, they run cooler and generally tolerate high-drain better.
If you want to calculate amp draw and output for yourself, Steam Engine has a handy tool for doing so. Just use the "regulated" mode, set it to "wattage," put "8.4v" as the battery voltage, and plug-in the numbers. The light-blue table tells you what hits the atty, while the dark blue one tells you what is coming from the batteries. Lemme know if you need more help using it.
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Thanks I understand it alittle bit better now but I vape at 45-65watts so I'll be definitely fine
Haha, absolutely. At that power level, the batteries you have now are one of two best options, the other being the Samsung 30Q.
nice explanation, thanks for sharing thatThe IPV3 is a series regulated box mod. The batteries are stacked, meaning it operates at a base voltage of 8.4v. The implications of this are major. What you're thinking of only applies to unregulated mods, where the coil directly pulls current from the batteries. Regulated mods are a bit more complex and do not operate like that.
Because of how that type of mod converts and transfers power, resistance doesn't matter. If the mod will allow you to fire it, then it is perfectly safe to run. The power it pulls and the power it gives are very different.
If you want to bear with me and hopefully learn something pretty nifty about your mod, then read on. If not, then skip to the last four paragraphs. Quick question, LONG answer. I will try to keep it simple for ya!
There are two distinct phases in the circuitry of your mod. Let's call them the "input phase" and "output phase."
The input phase comes first. The coil isn't yet part of the circuit during this stage... ...in fact there is no resistor in the circuit at all, so ohms law doesn't apply here. The batteries are essentially isolated from the coil end of things.
At whatever voltage the batteries are pushing, the device will draw the current it needs to give you the desired wattage (plus a little extra that the output circuit needs to function.) So, for example, if you set your IPV3 to 150w, then it will pull around 20 amps from fresh batteries (8.4v,) every time. Doesn't matter if your coil is 1 ohm or 0.1 ohms. That is what the batteries will provide, regardless of anything else.
This also means that as your battery voltage goes down, the amount of current the device will need to pull goes up. So if your batteries have dipped to say... ...6.5v, then they will now need to give 25A to hit 150w instead of the 20A that was needed when they were kicking out 8v.
The output phase is where the coil comes into play. That same 150w @ 8v that the chip has pulled straight from the batteries goes into something called a buck converter. A buck converter's job is to take voltage and turn it into current. Bear in mind that no more than 5-10 percent of the power is lost when the voltage is reduced by a buck converter - it merely changes form. When you go from 8v to 4v, the wattage doesn't change!
The chip takes a reading of the atty's resistance and tells the converter to allow the necessary amount of current to accumulate as per ohms law. So if you drop a .1 on there, ohm's law dictates that you must pump in 38A @ 3.9v into it in order to get 150w - the coil will always need to draw that much current at that exact voltage in order to hit 150w. And that is what the box will give.
Ordinarily, 38A would be far too much for any 3.7v 18650 lithium battery to handle, but fortunately, the buck converter makes it unnecessary to actually pull 38A from the batteries. Through it, the 166w your batteries give as 20A @ 8v becomes 150w as 38A @ 3.9V. Essentially, what it has done is used the batteries' excess voltage to get more current to the coil than the batteries are able to provide. This makes mods like yours pretty much idiot-proof when it comes to building. It is literally impossible to fry batteries with a coil on a functional series regulated mod.
It all boils down to your wattage setting, not your resistance. With that particular mod, wattage is what determines how much amp draw your batteries will see. Those LG HG2's of yours are fine batteries and certainly can handle up to 150w, but that's going to be pushing the limits of what they can take... ...increasingly more so as the charge depletes. You'll be maxing them out to the full 20A when they're fresh, while you'll be pulling 25-28 amps by the time they need to be changed.
Probably best not to go any higher than 130w with them. I wouldn't say it's super-dangerous to go higher, but it is going to tear into those batteries very quickly.
You'll get much better performance and lifespan at 125w and below. If you plan to use the max wattage often, then you would be better off with Sony VTC4's (preferably 3's,) LG HB2's, or Samsung 25r's. Though the VTC4's and 25r's are also 20A batteries like your LG's, they run cooler and generally tolerate high-drain better.
If you want to calculate amp draw and output for yourself, Steam Engine has a handy tool for doing so. Just use the "regulated" mode, set it to "wattage," put "8.4v" as the battery voltage, and plug-in the numbers. The light-blue table tells you what hits the atty, while the dark blue one tells you what is coming from the batteries. Lemme know if you need more help using it.
Very good explanation. Also a lot of mods will sense that your going to over draw the batteries and limit the power to a safe level despite what your telling it to do. Computers are wonderful things.
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