Hello, just signed up here. I have an IPV D2 with a Sense Herakles Tank with the .6 ohm coils. I'm interested in getting into RDAs and I have NEVER made my own coils before. The RDA I want is a Lone Wulf RDA in Copper. As I was looking for tools needed for RDAs I saw that I needed to purchase an OHM reader. My question is, my IPV D2 reads ohms so would I need to still buy an Ohm Reader? I plan on making builds between .2-.4 ohms (since the IPV D2 only reads down to .2) and I am also wondering if it is safe for me to use an RDA with my IPV D2? Here is the link on what I plan to do with my coils.
. Also what watts would you run at with a .2-.4 ohm build? I go up to 60-75w with my .6 since I use max vg 0 nic juice but I was wondering if those watts are necessary with an RDA with the .2-.4 build? I have an IMREN IMR 3500mah 30A battery. Thanks so much I know I asked a lot of questions.
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RDA with IPV D2 (some questions)
- Thread starter MaxxxxVape
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Bean8379
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If your device reads ohms, you don't need an ohm reader. Most regulated mods nowadays do read ohms, so you usually only need an ohm reader if you have a mech mod. If your box has a 510 connection, I am pretty sure you can use just about any atty that is 510 threaded. I haven't gotten into Clapton coils or anything advanced like that myself yet, but the simple coils where you're just wrapping one strand of wire around a tool are pretty easy, you'll get better with practice. I use either a 2.4mm Philips or a 2.4mm drillbit, and although I've been told by people on here that you should use diagonals, I've been using nail clippers to clip the ends of the wire and that's been working fine for me. I prefer to build my coils, pulse/tweak them until they are glowing pretty much evenly from end to end, then check the ohms. I vape high vg and I don't tweeze the coils together while hot, I've read that this helps the juice penetrate the coil and wick better. I just tweak and twist the coil till it flows evenly, sometimes I squeeze it with a pair of pliers after firing, but I wait till its not glowing at all to do so. Once I've pulsed/tweaked and read ohms, then I wick and juice it up. This is just what's been working for me, I know some others may not agree but in my limited experience so far I'm happy with the way I've been doing things.
I don't want to overreact and be the one to rain on anyone's parade but I must deliver a warning. Not that you're gonna "blow your face off" or anything, but I would not believe that battery's rating.
There is NO Imren battery of 3500 mah that is capable of delivering 30 amps continuous! Not one. And that is your warning.
Efest, Imren, TrustFire, UltraFire, BestFire (anything with 'fire' in the name) are only battery re-wrappers. There are few actual battery manufacturers. Less that reputable companies will rewrap them with their own ratings. Pulse ratings may be used as a continuous discharge rating, making them potentially 'less than safe' should any problem arise.
Dammit, there ain't no free lunch!
There is NO Imren battery of 3500 mah that is capable of delivering 30 amps continuous! Not one. And that is your warning.
Efest, Imren, TrustFire, UltraFire, BestFire (anything with 'fire' in the name) are only battery re-wrappers. There are few actual battery manufacturers. Less that reputable companies will rewrap them with their own ratings. Pulse ratings may be used as a continuous discharge rating, making them potentially 'less than safe' should any problem arise.
Dammit, there ain't no free lunch!
I was actually wondering if it was rewrapped...just bought LG HG2 so I also have 3000mah 20A