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Requesting A Temp Control Users Guide

UncleRJ

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Hey one and all.

Temp controlled APVs seem the be the next big thing now.

I may even consider getting one myself.

We have had members generate some pretty damn good tutorials on other subjects so I am asking one of our VU Temp Control "Guru's" to generate a tutorial on the subject for all of us folks that are looking into getting a temp controlled device or have one and are not quite sure how to use it and have not asked.

Please make it as detailed as you like including how to build atomizers complete with gauge recommendations.

While this is not a contest, the best written tutorial will have his or her name put in a drawing for a date with Classwife as she seems to be having difficulties with the usual matchmaking services.

Per OBDave's comment, the VU member submitting the Very Best Tutorial does not have his or her name put into the drawing. Now you have incentive to do your very best work!
 

OBDave

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Don't you mean anyone that half-asses their post gets thrown into the drawing? Winner can just go complain that @VaporJoes sucks because they never get any free stuff...

Really, I'd be interested in reading something like this - TC is a ways off for me (so is any new mod at this point, with 3 arriving in the last 2 weeks), but it'll definitely be a consideration next time I go shopping.
 

UncleRJ

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Don't you mean anyone that half-asses their post gets thrown into the drawing? Winner can just go complain that @VaporJoes sucks because they never get any free stuff...

Really, I'd be interested in reading something like this - TC is a ways off for me (so is any new mod at this point, with 3 arriving in the last 2 weeks), but it'll definitely be a consideration next time I go shopping.


Good Point and I have edited my original post. The best tutorial does NOT have his or her name added.
 

Neunerball

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I think it's too early for having real Gurus, since this technology is too new.
 

UncleRJ

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I am starting to think that no one here wants to go on a hot date with Classwife.

Lets try this, everyone that does not submit something worthwhile has their contact information sent to her.

Those that do go into a kind of Classwife Witness Protection Program and she won't be able to track you down even if she tries.
 

Smoky Blue

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I am starting to think that no one here wants to go on a hot date with Classwife.

Lets try this, everyone that does not submit something worthwhile has their contact information sent to her.

Those that do go into a kind of Classwife Witness Protection Program and she won't be able to track you down even if she tries.


umm she doesnt like me, Uncle, and won't play nice :(
 

UncleRJ

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umm she doesnt like me, Uncle, and won't play nice :(


And just for you Miss Blue, if you don't get busy and find someone to help us with this project, I will pay someone up to $2 to hack your computer and permanently install a naked picture of classwife as your screensaver!
 

Smoky Blue

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And just for you Miss Blue, if you don't get busy and find someone to help us with this project, I will pay someone up to $2 to hack your computer and permanently install a naked picture of classwife as your screensaver!


omg!! nooooo:eek: I will be blinded and wont be able to mix up fantastic juice!! :oops:
Cant you at least find like a hot hunky guy or something?? I send you some juice!!! :D
 

f1r3b1rd

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Not really sure what y'all are wanting to know in this thread...
I'm an early adopter to TL, and only use kanthal when im wanting that massive high power vapes from a dual parallel coil.

For one though a huge misconception...it is not temp control, it's temp limiting. There is no thermostat, its basically not letting you above the temp you set.

Also, ni200 is used, because it has a linear relationship of resistance to temperature. I'm other words as temperature increases so does resistance at a predictable pace. So, essentially the board is matched to
The load and from there can predict (with some cool boring math) what the temperature of the coil is by constantly reading the load.
On the yihi boards a minimum load of 0.05ohms is required while on the DNA 40 a 0.11ohms is required. The DNA will fire below that but it is not advised by the evolv gods.
From what I've seen and experience a 3 sometime or 3.5 inner diameter coil seems to work best on both.
The DNA tends to work best for me in the 0.9-0.13 range and the yihi board between 0.6-0.9
The ni200 can be quite a challenge at first... But quickly becomes the norm,
A few things with it.
do not dry burn it, ever. Clean it with an alcohol wipe(good excuse to get hooters)
28g tempered ni200 from stealth vape is a wonderful easy to work with material
if you don't want to go that route 26h is another great one to use.

Some are twisting it but I'll let them fill that in, im a purist and don't have experience there
 
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f1r3b1rd

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Doing my part to not get pictures
 

madmonkey

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Just like @f1r3b1rd ...not wanting pictures as well I will do my part to ad too it but he pretty much covered the basics.

Nickel coils, just like any other, take time and practice to get the hang off. I have an early DNA 40 release that has bugs in it and doesn't correctly read the coil heating/resistance ratio level correctly. It will limit the coil very quickly giving a cool yucky vape at first but if I take my atty off and screw back on real quick while it's still warm and tell my DNA that it is a new coil it will fire quite nicely and do what it is supposed too. I have tried spaced coils and microcoils in 28 and 30 gauge Ni200 wire from Lightening Vapes and Tempco coming out in the .12-.16 range for resistance. I have used a 3.2 mm drill bit and even a 4 mm with mixed results till I figured out my board was demented like it's owner and we started getting along fine :D

When I first started wrapping these coils I hadn't read that you were supposed to not dry fire them, but I had read that you're supposed to clean them with alcohol as apposed to torching them (yes, sometimes I even need schooling and to pay more attention to those who know better, I am still learning too :) ) and I found that once you wrap a coil if you just quickly pulse it once or twice it would help it hold it's shape better and easier to wick as nickel coils are very flimsy and if you try and pull too much wick threw or the right amount too fast it can deform them quickly if not careful. I wouldn't pulse them over and over again or for several seconds. I have probably made 20 or so nickel coils and a few I wrapped just to pulse to see if the way I was winding them was evenly spreading heat threw them and there were no hot spots or if microcoiling nickel was even possible. Most of these were never wicked or vaped on...they were used for educational purposes to get a feel for the wire itself...something I recommend anyone starting to work with Nickel does as it is quite tempermental and far less forgiving than Kanthal or Nicrome is.

I also made these practice coils so I could see the temperature/resistance relation in action....as the coil heats up the resistance increases several times it's original reading and drops down just as quickly as it cools....I don't remember the exact numbers off the top of my head and since I can't vape and read my screen at the same time very well it would be just as good as me guessing...but if I remember right the practice coils jumped from like .16 to .76 or something close to that and dropped back down as quickly as it rose set at 25 watts with the temp limiter set at 400 degrees.

Honestly I've only gotten one good micro and one good non micro coil out of them and I don't play with it much to be a "geneous" or even "well informed" on the subject as my rDNA 40 has become my daily driver with my Subtank and my DNA 30 with my Kayfun or my old Provari with my Nautilus as my second one as I just can't vape one flavor all day and until I have the money to order the Subtank nickel coils from vaporshark to come pare I am waiting for my PVA 40 to come with the newer, bug free, DNA 40D version 4 chip to really dive into messing with temp control....but I am full of information of how not to make the coil as you should be able to tell from above...and sometimes knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what to do....at least in my world it works like that :D

It's going to take a little more patience than it does learning to work with Kanthal to get the hang of so like I said, I would cut and clean several pieces of wire, practice wrapping coils in different diameters above 3 mm in your gauge of choice and the first few I wouldn't wick, just put in your atty and see how they fire...once you've got a feel for your spacing or lack there of then wrap a coil and wick and juice it before you fire it because once it's fired it will temper and change your coil...you'll be done working with it once it's fired. I did try and torch a piece of nickel and wrap with it to see how well it would work and although it wrapped into a coil it didn't seem to want to fire right once wicked...I have no logical explanation for this, just my observation....

I hope this is enough to avoid my name from being put into the "drawing"...that is a prize I am sure I am not the only one that is scared of "winning" around here :D
 

Neunerball

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Just like @f1r3b1rd ...not wanting pictures as well I will do my part to ad too it but he pretty much covered the basics.

Nickel coils, just like any other, take time and practice to get the hang off. I have an early DNA 40 release that has bugs in it and doesn't correctly read the coil heating/resistance ratio level correctly. It will limit the coil very quickly giving a cool yucky vape at first but if I take my atty off and screw back on real quick while it's still warm and tell my DNA that it is a new coil it will fire quite nicely and do what it is supposed too. I have tried spaced coils and microcoils in 28 and 30 gauge Ni200 wire from Lightening Vapes and Tempco coming out in the .12-.16 range for resistance. I have used a 3.2 mm drill bit and even a 4 mm with mixed results till I figured out my board was demented like it's owner and we started getting along fine :D

When I first started wrapping these coils I hadn't read that you were supposed to not dry fire them, but I had read that you're supposed to clean them with alcohol as apposed to torching them (yes, sometimes I even need schooling and to pay more attention to those who know better, I am still learning too :) ) and I found that once you wrap a coil if you just quickly pulse it once or twice it would help it hold it's shape better and easier to wick as nickel coils are very flimsy and if you try and pull too much wick threw or the right amount too fast it can deform them quickly if not careful. I wouldn't pulse them over and over again or for several seconds. I have probably made 20 or so nickel coils and a few I wrapped just to pulse to see if the way I was winding them was evenly spreading heat threw them and there were no hot spots or if microcoiling nickel was even possible. Most of these were never wicked or vaped on...they were used for educational purposes to get a feel for the wire itself...something I recommend anyone starting to work with Nickel does as it is quite tempermental and far less forgiving than Kanthal or Nicrome is.

I also made these practice coils so I could see the temperature/resistance relation in action....as the coil heats up the resistance increases several times it's original reading and drops down just as quickly as it cools....I don't remember the exact numbers off the top of my head and since I can't vape and read my screen at the same time very well it would be just as good as me guessing...but if I remember right the practice coils jumped from like .16 to .76 or something close to that and dropped back down as quickly as it rose set at 25 watts with the temp limiter set at 400 degrees.

Honestly I've only gotten one good micro and one good non micro coil out of them and I don't play with it much to be a "geneous" or even "well informed" on the subject as my rDNA 40 has become my daily driver with my Subtank and my DNA 30 with my Kayfun or my old Provari with my Nautilus as my second one as I just can't vape one flavor all day and until I have the money to order the Subtank nickel coils from vaporshark to come pare I am waiting for my PVA 40 to come with the newer, bug free, DNA 40D version 4 chip to really dive into messing with temp control....but I am full of information of how not to make the coil as you should be able to tell from above...and sometimes knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what to do....at least in my world it works like that :D

It's going to take a little more patience than it does learning to work with Kanthal to get the hang of so like I said, I would cut and clean several pieces of wire, practice wrapping coils in different diameters above 3 mm in your gauge of choice and the first few I wouldn't wick, just put in your atty and see how they fire...once you've got a feel for your spacing or lack there of then wrap a coil and wick and juice it before you fire it because once it's fired it will temper and change your coil...you'll be done working with it once it's fired. I did try and torch a piece of nickel and wrap with it to see how well it would work and although it wrapped into a coil it didn't seem to want to fire right once wicked...I have no logical explanation for this, just my observation....

I hope this is enough to avoid my name from being put into the "drawing"...that is a prize I am sure I am not the only one that is scared of "winning" around here :D
ERROR: Memory overflow... :) I'll have to read that again, when I'm not as tired.
 

LetTheLuckRoll

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Just like @f1r3b1rd ...not wanting pictures as well I will do my part to ad too it but he pretty much covered the basics.

Nickel coils, just like any other, take time and practice to get the hang off. I have an early DNA 40 release that has bugs in it and doesn't correctly read the coil heating/resistance ratio level correctly. It will limit the coil very quickly giving a cool yucky vape at first but if I take my atty off and screw back on real quick while it's still warm and tell my DNA that it is a new coil it will fire quite nicely and do what it is supposed too. I have tried spaced coils and microcoils in 28 and 30 gauge Ni200 wire from Lightening Vapes and Tempco coming out in the .12-.16 range for resistance. I have used a 3.2 mm drill bit and even a 4 mm with mixed results till I figured out my board was demented like it's owner and we started getting along fine :D

When I first started wrapping these coils I hadn't read that you were supposed to not dry fire them, but I had read that you're supposed to clean them with alcohol as apposed to torching them (yes, sometimes I even need schooling and to pay more attention to those who know better, I am still learning too :) ) and I found that once you wrap a coil if you just quickly pulse it once or twice it would help it hold it's shape better and easier to wick as nickel coils are very flimsy and if you try and pull too much wick threw or the right amount too fast it can deform them quickly if not careful. I wouldn't pulse them over and over again or for several seconds. I have probably made 20 or so nickel coils and a few I wrapped just to pulse to see if the way I was winding them was evenly spreading heat threw them and there were no hot spots or if microcoiling nickel was even possible. Most of these were never wicked or vaped on...they were used for educational purposes to get a feel for the wire itself...something I recommend anyone starting to work with Nickel does as it is quite tempermental and far less forgiving than Kanthal or Nicrome is.

I also made these practice coils so I could see the temperature/resistance relation in action....as the coil heats up the resistance increases several times it's original reading and drops down just as quickly as it cools....I don't remember the exact numbers off the top of my head and since I can't vape and read my screen at the same time very well it would be just as good as me guessing...but if I remember right the practice coils jumped from like .16 to .76 or something close to that and dropped back down as quickly as it rose set at 25 watts with the temp limiter set at 400 degrees.

Honestly I've only gotten one good micro and one good non micro coil out of them and I don't play with it much to be a "geneous" or even "well informed" on the subject as my rDNA 40 has become my daily driver with my Subtank and my DNA 30 with my Kayfun or my old Provari with my Nautilus as my second one as I just can't vape one flavor all day and until I have the money to order the Subtank nickel coils from vaporshark to come pare I am waiting for my PVA 40 to come with the newer, bug free, DNA 40D version 4 chip to really dive into messing with temp control....but I am full of information of how not to make the coil as you should be able to tell from above...and sometimes knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what to do....at least in my world it works like that :D

It's going to take a little more patience than it does learning to work with Kanthal to get the hang of so like I said, I would cut and clean several pieces of wire, practice wrapping coils in different diameters above 3 mm in your gauge of choice and the first few I wouldn't wick, just put in your atty and see how they fire...once you've got a feel for your spacing or lack there of then wrap a coil and wick and juice it before you fire it because once it's fired it will temper and change your coil...you'll be done working with it once it's fired. I did try and torch a piece of nickel and wrap with it to see how well it would work and although it wrapped into a coil it didn't seem to want to fire right once wicked...I have no logical explanation for this, just my observation....

I hope this is enough to avoid my name from being put into the "drawing"...that is a prize I am sure I am not the only one that is scared of "winning" around here :D
Do you think that the trick with get atty warm remove and replace quickly will work with ni200 occ? I will try and get back with an answer.
 

f1r3b1rd

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It should work in theory
 

LetTheLuckRoll

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i dont think i like the ni200 occ coils just dont produce very well . They do work but not as good as the normal occ coils.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Where is your temp set? Mine is at 510 for an Atlantis ni200
 

f1r3b1rd

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Bump your power by 5w and set your temp to 530.
And let it sit for a few minutes to cool off,
 

LetTheLuckRoll

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I also was told that the ignition temp of cotton was 410 .that don't matter as much with a tank i guess
 

f1r3b1rd

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I was told that gasoline is flammable but I can put a match in it and were all ok, haha

It'll be fine dude, the cotton is wet, lmao
 

f1r3b1rd

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I know :). honestly 550 is really my spot for the Atlantis,
You gotta play with these things till you find what you like.
And anything that someone on ecf told you, just throw it away in the garbage, -except battery safety stuff.
But all that you must do this or you will due nonsense is cat people talk.

If you're on a DNA... TL- between 30-35w and 500-550 degrees seems to be the fun spot with a subtank
 

LetTheLuckRoll

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never been to the other site it was a friend from work. I am alot happier with the ni 200 coils now thank you.
 

f1r3b1rd

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No worries!!!!
 

f1r3b1rd

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galv5Il.gif
 

krashkrieg

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I know :). honestly 550 is really my spot for the Atlantis,
You gotta play with these things till you find what you like.
And anything that someone on ecf told you, just throw it away in the garbage, -except battery safety stuff.
But all that you must do this or you will due nonsense is cat people talk.

If you're on a DNA... TL- between 30-35w and 500-550 degrees seems to be the fun spot with a subtank

Thanks!, I just started using a kanger ni200 .15 coil this weekend with my IPV4.
Seems that your tip of raising the temp and and I lowered my Joules worked!
Running 520 @ 30 Joule and it's better.
(You still really need to stick a needle through the center of the cotton to keep 70/30 wicking properly)

Now if Arctic would only come out with NI200 coils!
 

f1r3b1rd

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Thanks!, I just started using a kanger ni200 .15 coil this weekend with my IPV4.
Seems that your tip of raising the temp and and I lowered my Joules worked!
Running 520 @ 30 Joule and it's better.
(You still really need to stick a needle through the center of the cotton to keep 70/30 wicking properly)

Now if Arctic would only come out with NI200 coils!
I've heard that on the kanger, I use Atlantis and don't have wicking issues with 80/20.
But glad the power and temp setting trick worked for ya!
 

madmonkey

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Do you think that the trick with get atty warm remove and replace quickly will work with ni200 occ? I will try and get back with an answer.

I think it works with MY "special" version 1 DNA 40D board....as with pretty much all things vaping, your milage may vary. I have yet to try the prebuilt kanger heads...although they're on next months shopping list....but since I only have used nickel builds on drippers I can say this is how I got it to work for me as I wanted to try the "410" dry wick theory and test it out. I could set my temps to much higher levels and the limiter wouldn't kick in nearly as much but for me it felt like it was kind of defeating the purpose of temp limiting in the first place if I had to turn it up so high I hardly noticed it at all....when I started trying to "trick" my poor poor, senile, little DNA 40 I got much longer and better vapes of a saturated wick at a lower temp setting and the limiter would kick in more and more as the wick dried out, as apposed to when I put a fresh cold coil on it and would get about a half second vape off a saturated wick before it would kick in and I'd be vaping at 2 watts wishing I had waited another month before my curiouscity got the best of me...like I said, my situation seems to be unique to me...like so many other of my idiosyncrasies seem to be :confused:
 

Mattp169

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ok
i was looking for info on Temp control maybe this is the thread

If you get a mod that is TC do you have to use special coils such as the Ni 200 i see mentioned above?
 

Neunerball

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ok
i was looking for info on Temp control maybe this is the thread

If you get a mod that is TC do you have to use special coils such as the Ni 200 i see mentioned above?
Yes, you do, if you want to utilize the TC feature. Otherwise, using it in "normal" mode, you can use the wire, that you've been using so far.
 

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LOL...damn either I'm too old or too lazy to come aboard for this ride! I've been trying to keep up with all the "new stuff" but I guess the temp control just isn't necessary for my "vape wheelhouse". I'm perfectly content with a 30 watt mod with my old V2 Kayfuns between 15-25 watts. Just doesn't make sense to me why everybody is so ready to jump to what seems like such a PITA (different wire for coils, constant fiddly adjustments depending on your atomizer..etc). I knew it wasn't for me when Busardo's review started sounding like a differential equations class about 5 minutes in...LOL I'm glad if this new tech makes things safer for the "clouds bro...clouds" set...but it just sounds like overkill for me....and really just about all of my friends who vape. Maybe I'm just not educated enough. One of these days I'll go to a shop and try one...eventually...lol
 

5150sick

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The ni200 kanger heads aren't bad at all.
I honestly think they are shooting themselves in the foot because if the wick never burns then why would you need to replace the coil?
A single coil head has lasted me almost as long as an entire 5 pack on my other non temp control mod.

I am very afraid that some asshole is going to start selling them for regular setups and someone may get hurt.

I am also afraid that some asshole is going to see "0.15 ohms" on the box and think they will get massive clouds with their mech.
 
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f1r3b1rd

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The ni200 kanger heads aren't bad at all.
I honestly think they are shooting themselves in the foot because if the wick never burns then why would you need to replace the coil?
A single coil head has lasted me almost as long as an entire 5 pack on my other non temp control mod.

I am very afraid that some asshole is going to start selling them for regular setups and someone may get hurt.

I am also afraid that some asshold is going to see "0.15 ohms" on the box and think they will get massive clouds with their mech.
Darwinism at its finest.
 

5150sick

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I got really, really lucky with the Kanger Ni200 coils.

I had bought a 5 pack off of a guy on eBay and a few minutes later his listings got taken down because of eBay's shitty TOS.

He messaged me and offered them to me for cheaper than I usually get the regular ones for.

So I ended up buying 2 more 5 packs for $30 and told him about VU hoping he would bring his great deals on the rest of the stuff here.

I have no idea if he took my advice or not.
 

f1r3b1rd

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I've still only tries a subtank, pretty happy with thr Atlantis ni200 coils. But I normally run an RTA still.
Still, I'd say you got damn lucky on eBay. The last few times I bought from their I've gotten hosed. Clones sold as authentic or general garbage.
 

madmonkey

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The ni200 kanger heads aren't bad at all.
I honestly think they are shooting themselves in the foot because if the wick never burns then why would you need to replace the coil?
A single coil head has lasted me almost as long as an entire 5 pack on my other non temp control mod.

I am very afraid that some asshole is going to start selling them for regular setups and someone may get hurt.

I am also afraid that some asshole is going to see "0.15 ohms" on the box and think they will get massive clouds with their mech.

I've been reading threw that data sheet on the nickel wire. Thank you big time for finding that @5150sick big time! I swear sometimes you're reading my mind...I've thought about that as well with the nickel coils being sold prebuilt...But it's just like when sub tanks first came out. there's always the risk that someone will get a mech and the wrong battery and try and run something like an Arctic with a .2 coil on an old AW or a Ping Samsung that came with the old Evics....There's risk with all vaping. Remember when dual coil "super low" resistance dual coil cartos came out and there were the warnings all over about not using them with certain eGo's and stick batteries';

At least with the factory nickel coils they aren't super easy to find. You have to took for them a little bit...true, they're not hard to find either...but just like China started making high powered regulated devices more accessable temperature limiting chipsets are slowly trickling out and we have to have faith that temp limiting rigs will have the same overall low incident rate that sub ohm gear has.

And in regards to using nickel to vape with in general we're taking a completely backwards approach to it than we did with Nichrome and Kanthal wires...that is that there were factory coils with standard resistance wires and then we took them and built our own. Then we built lower and lower till we could go lower no more. With Nickel it's the other way around. The first temp limiting chips came out and there was no factory builds for them to be used with so we had to build them ourselves out the starting gate. This led to much more hands on research and learning to use and education about what we're working with as a result. The learning curve isn't nessicarily steeper, just different. And so by the time factory coils were built the first of us to use them either had hands on experience working with nickel already or was able to at least have access to the preliminary videos and forum feedback on building with it and more information was available.

As much as I am a realist I would like to have a little faith that there won't be too many incidents with TC gear....it's still a little too new and different, even for the speed that things move in the vape world. Plus, because of all the hands on work required to review it in the beginning I am hoping that even shops that normally might not normally sell with discression will not just hand these out without explaining the basics of what they are and how they work. Here's hoping we'll have a better grasp overall on it by the time it's considered fully "mainstream" in the vaping universe.
 

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