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"Safe Batteries"

So I posted a little while ago about my build and was told about how to properly "marry" my batteries. I immediately went to my local vape store and asked for their best batteries. I wound up with a pair of Imren Purple "40A" batteries. After reading reviews of batteries by mooch I found out that these batteries are somewhat shitty, and only can safely handle 17A.

I am currently only hitting about 5-7A with my current builds so it doesn't really matter, but I have an orchid clone on its way and I am really loving the sub ohm builds I have been trying. I will likely be over 10A shortly and want to make sure that I have batteries that won't melt down on me.

The build I want to try in the orchid is dual 26 kanthal, down to about .5 ohm.

I am currently looking at the LG HE2. Are these batteries a safe bet for what I want to do?

On a side note, I see a lot of youtubers using a ohm meter to test their coils. My Fuchai reads out the ohms of my coil. Is this accurate enough, or should I buy the separate device?
 

ej1024

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Wassup it,
Get an ohm meter
Lg yellow,red are good
Samsung green is good
Effest purple good
Sony vtc 3,4 they good
I personally used this batts...
On a .5 you good to go bro..
Fuchai is accurate but you still wanna check ur coils with ohm meter... It's always about SAFETY IN VAPING BRO...
Good luck



Vape On
 

Lost

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I just ordered Samsung 25Rs from Liion for... wait for it... $5 each. These are batts that I've seen sold for $10 to $20 elsewhere (online/B&M).

I have not received the shipment yet, so technically, I'm not aboard the Liion fan-train yet. But why on earth would anyone buy a rewrap when you can get the real thing so cheap?
 

Angrygod50

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I just ordered Samsung 25Rs from Liion for... wait for it... $5 each. These are batts that I've seen sold for $10 to $20 elsewhere (online/B&M).

I have not received the shipment yet, so technically, I'm not aboard the Liion fan-train yet. But why on earth would anyone buy a rewrap when you can get the real thing so cheap?
That's why a lot of us here steer folks to Liion. Jon is also a well liked forum member.
 

zaroba

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Don't forget newer the Samsung 25R5 batteries as well.

(although i've never read any detailed charts on them so if they are worse then the regular 25R, feel free to correct me anybody)
 
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OBDave

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Don't forget newer the Samsung 25R2 batteries as well.

(although i've never read any detailed charts on them so if they are worse then the regular 25R, feel free to correct me anybody)
I thought those were the older "smurf" Sammies, with the 25r5 being the newer green ones.

Regardless, OP is good to go on the current batteries, though better informed for future purchases. I like an ohm meter for my builds because it keeps my mods honest and vice versa - if they can agree on my resistance great, if they're way off I know one has a problem and can troubleshoot before potentially vaping something dangerous. USA Ohm Meter is generally considered the gold standard in ohm meters if you don't have one yet...

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone
 

Bucky205

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So I posted a little while ago about my build and was told about how to properly "marry" my batteries. I immediately went to my local vape store and asked for their best batteries. I wound up with a pair of Imren Purple "40A" batteries. After reading reviews of batteries by mooch I found out that these batteries are somewhat shitty, and only can safely handle 17A.

I am currently only hitting about 5-7A with my current builds so it doesn't really matter, but I have an orchid clone on its way and I am really loving the sub ohm builds I have been trying. I will likely be over 10A shortly and want to make sure that I have batteries that won't melt down on me.

The build I want to try in the orchid is dual 26 kanthal, down to about .5 ohm.

I am currently looking at the LG HE2. Are these batteries a safe bet for what I want to do?

On a side note, I see a lot of youtubers using a ohm meter to test their coils. My Fuchai reads out the ohms of my coil. Is this accurate enough, or should I buy the separate device?
LG HE2, and HE4 are both good batteries. They test slightly below the Samsung 25R's
 

robot zombie

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I really wish vape shops would get on their shit with the battery suggestions. There's really no good reason why the battery you got should ever have been suggested. And is there ever was, they should have been able to tell you what the actual amp rating was. It scares me that this person seems to think that a "40A" efest is the best battery they have. This shit is just common knowledge enough that everyone in the shop should already know... ...if not for their own sakes, then at least for their newer customers, whom depend on them for reliable information. Picking batteries is such an easy thing to not fuck up. I just don't get it.

I say get your mileage out of the batteries you have... ...run them within their actual limits and snag a couple of pairs of one or two of the suggestions mentioned in this thread for when you get into high-drain use. Good batteries are one of the cheapest components of a vape setup, so you might as well get a bunch of the best ones you can. But at the same time, it would be a shame to toss those efests... ...they're perfectly good batteries even though they aren't what they've been sold to you as.

Can't really go wrong with Liion or illumn.com. Why buy efest when you can get the best for less?

I thought those were the older "smurf" Sammies, with the 25r5 being the newer green ones.

Regardless, OP is good to go on the current batteries, though better informed for future purchases. I like an ohm meter for my builds because it keeps my mods honest and vice versa - if they can agree on my resistance great, if they're way off I know one has a problem and can troubleshoot before potentially vaping something dangerous. USA Ohm Meter is generally considered the gold standard in ohm meters if you don't have one yet...
I love my USA Ohm meter. It seems pretty accurate and it's really consistent. Being able to read down to the thousandths really does make a difference. Meters that round to the tenths or hundredths can be misleading.

Ohm meters are just generally good to have. Even if your box can already do that, it never hurts to have something to compare it against. They're also handy tabletop building platforms.

But why on earth would anyone buy a rewrap when you can get the real thing so cheap?
A lot of people just don't know better. Many don't even know that they're using re-wraps. Others don't care. And then there's the fact that with the higher price point comes the illusion of greater value. I can see how the fancy, heavily-branded, pricier re-wraps might appeal more to the naive than an OEM battery with wrap that makes it look more like a part that you're not supposed to see than say, the batteries for a camera or TV remote. I mean, its MADE for vaping, right? RIGHT???
 

OBDave

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I just ordered Samsung 25Rs from Liion for... wait for it... $5 each. These are batts that I've seen sold for $10 to $20 elsewhere (online/B&M).

I have not received the shipment yet, so technically, I'm not aboard the Liion fan-train yet. But why on earth would anyone buy a rewrap when you can get the real thing so cheap?
Back in the day I even bought a couple pairs of purple Efests because I was just getting into mechs and the widespread education/condemnation campaign against fake battery specs hadn't taken off, so I legitimately didn't know any better - that seems to be how 90% of people end up getting into them, the other 10% are so defensive of their choices I wonder if they believe the Chinese marketing hype more than actual test results. I ended up using them in regulated boxes until they started to peter out, now they go in flashlights.
 

Lost

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USA Ohm Meter is generally considered the gold standard in ohm meters if you don't have one yet...

Can't remember if I mentioned already... I did get one. It was a lot more money than I wanted to spend. But every other brand was either panned by too many people, or I personally noticed that they were way off.

Accuracy seems pretty good so far, but I'll need to take it to the vape shop at some point for a bigger test. The housing isn't as tough as I thought it would be; it's only the 2 AA batteries that make it feel like it has any heft. I got a clear one, so I understand why they're so light... it's just a tiny chip and a 510 connector.

If I had to do it over, I'd email them before I ordered and ask for extra padding for the envelope. The top of the case has a non-critical crack in it.
 

OBDave

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Can't remember if I mentioned already... I did get one. It was a lot more money than I wanted to spend. But every other brand was either panned by too many people, or I personally noticed that they were way off.

Accuracy seems pretty good so far, but I'll need to take it to the vape shop at some point for a bigger test. The housing isn't as tough as I thought it would be; it's only the 2 AA batteries that make it feel like it has any heft. I got a clear one, so I understand why they're so light... it's just a tiny chip and a 510 connector.

If I had to do it over, I'd email them before I ordered and ask for extra padding for the envelope. The top of the case has a non-critical crack in it.
Appreciate the review - I don't spend a ton of time lurking the tech threads, but I've seen enough over time to recommend them (as I'm pretty sure I did for you). Lame to hear their shipping standards aren't up to par and can result in damaged product, but I'll definitely keep that in mind for future references - I'm still building on a $15 FT meter that only goes out to the hundredths - but I'm also never building below about 0.3 these days as I'm 99% regulated...
 

zaroba

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A lot of people just don't know better. Many don't even know that they're using re-wraps. Others don't care. And then there's the fact that with the higher price point comes the illusion of greater value. I can see how the fancy, heavily-branded, pricier re-wraps might appeal more to the naive than an OEM battery with wrap that makes it look more like a part that you're not supposed to see than say, the batteries for a camera or TV remote. I mean, its MADE for vaping, right? RIGHT???

I agree with this completely.
Kind of unrelated, but a lot of businesses do sneaky things like that to make money off people who just don't know better.
One can save a lot of money by avoiding the department that relates to what your trying to do.

Want velcro straps to hold wires together behind an entertainment center?
10 for $5 in the electronics department with flashy packaging.
But a roll of 100 costs less in the hardware department without the flashy packaging.
 

Angrygod50

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I thought those were the older "smurf" Sammies, with the 25r5 being the newer green ones.
OBDave is right they stopped the blue wrappers changed the chemistry a bit and there all green now. Same specs but some think the blue ones last a bit longer between charging. (I don't know)If anyone is interested there is a press release on Lightning vapes web site on the 25r page.
 
I really wish vape shops would get on their shit with the battery suggestions. There's really no good reason why the battery you got should ever have been suggested. And is there ever was, they should have been able to tell you what the actual amp rating was. It scares me that this person seems to think that a "40A" efest is the best battery they have. This shit is just common knowledge enough that everyone in the shop should already know... ...if not for their own sakes, then at least for their newer customers, whom depend on them for reliable information. Picking batteries is such an easy thing to not fuck up. I just don't get it.

I say get your mileage out of the batteries you have... ...run them within their actual limits and snag a couple of pairs of one or two of the suggestions mentioned in this thread for when you get into high-drain use. Good batteries are one of the cheapest components of a vape setup, so you might as well get a bunch of the best ones you can. But at the same time, it would be a shame to toss those efests... ...they're perfectly good batteries even though they aren't what they've been sold to you as.
...
A lot of people just don't know better. Many don't even know that they're using re-wraps. Others don't care. And then there's the fact that with the higher price point comes the illusion of greater value. I can see how the fancy, heavily-branded, pricier re-wraps might appeal more to the naive than an OEM battery with wrap that makes it look more like a part that you're not supposed to see than say, the batteries for a camera or TV remote. I mean, its MADE for vaping, right? RIGHT???

Thanks, and thanks everyone for your replies. I'm not super mad at the vape shop, I have a single battery 80w tesla that I use as a backup so extra batteries are good to have around, and as I've been learning more I've been accumulating a lot of them. I totally agree about how batteries are relatively cheap, and how its worth it to get good ones. I'm not rich or anything, but as someone who used to spend about 100 bucks a month on cigarettes, 10-15 bucks for a pair of batteries that wont vent or blow up in my face is a really small price to pay. Seems to be a lot of love for the 25r so those will probably be the next pair I buy. Also I've got an ohm meter on the way.
 

VapeMChance

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I use LG HG2's and Sony VTC4's (ahemmm I work for Sony so I gotta use the batts)

Anyway I thought that battery amp limits didn't really matter in regulated mods like the fuchai... I understand the importance in Mech mods and Ohm's law as to not push the battery to hard, but I thought that was part of the point of regulated mods. I have lots of mods that can go down to 0.05 Ohm I always assumed it was safe due to the regulated part... Am I wrong?!?!?
 

Lefty

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Depends on the limits of the chip involved. The largest amp draw on a mech is going to be when the battery is fresh. The amp draw with a regulated mod at a given wattage gets higher as the voltage of the battery falls - up to the limits set by the chip. So the battery should be equal to the limits set by the chip if you want to run it at maximum wattage until the mod tells you to replace it.
 

Angrygod50

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Usually regulated mods with single 18650 top out at 75 - 80 watts and dual battery mods in series are good to 130 -140 watts that's why DNA 200 and the RX200 use ether Li-po packs or 3 18650's to safely get to 200 watts without PWM. What Lefty said is right on, they will tax your battery at higher power but are much safer than a mech mod.
 

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