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Safe resistance for Dual Battery Mod

KoblinV3

Member For 1 Year
I got a dual battery 18650 regulated squonker. I'm running Samsung 20S' in it. I know if it was a mech the lowest with a single battery build you would want is .14. I'm wondering if it WASN'T regulated and was say a parallel mech what would my minimum resistance possible be?

From what I could tell it'd be .07 since the calculation goes 4.2v/30amps=.14ohms. So since it's hypothetically a parallel mod I'm pretty sure it would be 4.2v/60amps=.07ohms. I planned on doing about a .10ohm build in there. If I did do that build what do you think I'd be running for wattage? The build would be a dual 3.5mm 5.5 wrap spaced SS hex core clapton (30gx6/36g).

I know optimal wattage is somewhat subjective but to give you an idea I'm using a dual 3.5mm 6.5 wrap quad fused Clapton (30x4/40g) and 56 watts is perfect for me. I don't think I'd get anywhere near the 200w max but I haven't ran a build that low. I'm thinking it'd be under 150w for sure, probably under 130w.

I go for flavor over clouds but I have a good balance right now with those quad core claptons in the Rebirth RDA. I just find the wattage that tastes the best with the airflow set the way I want and that worked out to 56w in this case.

Yeah I'm trying to stay a step ahead and make sure I don't build so low that I'm overpowering my batteries. Pretty sure I can do 100w per battery though. From what I looked up I should be able to do 111w per 20S battery without pushing them super hard from doing 3.7v * 30A = 111w.

Got the calculations from here and someone else had posted the same technique for figuring out the max wattage per battery so I'm thinking that it's a pretty legit way to do it.

https://redd.it/3kogxd
 

zephyr

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I got a dual battery 18650 regulated squonker. I'm running Samsung 20S' in it. I know if it was a mech the lowest with a single battery build you would want is .14. I'm wondering if it WASN'T regulated and was say a parallel mech what would my minimum resistance possible be?

From what I could tell it'd be .07 since the calculation goes 4.2v/30amps=.14ohms. So since it's hypothetically a parallel mod I'm pretty sure it would be 4.2v/60amps=.07ohms. I planned on doing about a .10ohm build in there. If I did do that build what do you think I'd be running for wattage? The build would be a dual 3.5mm 5.5 wrap spaced SS hex core clapton (30gx6/36g).

I know optimal wattage is somewhat subjective but to give you an idea I'm using a dual 3.5mm 6.5 wrap quad fused Clapton (30x4/40g) and 56 watts is perfect for me. I don't think I'd get anywhere near the 200w max but I haven't ran a build that low. I'm thinking it'd be under 150w for sure, probably under 130w.

I go for flavor over clouds but I have a good balance right now with those quad core claptons in the Rebirth RDA. I just find the wattage that tastes the best with the airflow set the way I want and that worked out to 56w in this case.

Yeah I'm trying to stay a step ahead and make sure I don't build so low that I'm overpowering my batteries. Pretty sure I can do 100w per battery though. From what I looked up I should be able to do 111w per 20S battery without pushing them super hard from doing 3.7v * 30A = 111w.

Got the calculations from here and someone else had posted the same technique for figuring out the max wattage per battery so I'm thinking that it's a pretty legit way to do it.

https://redd.it/3kogxd


0.1 ohms is a good spot - going under 0.1 my be possible, but the lower you go, the less accurate standard ohm readers are - keep that in mind

You have the right idea :cheers:
 

zephyr

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Got to mention though that there's a lot more to parallel mech than just using good batteries and a safe resistance - the design of the mod, care and maintenance, how well it drains each battery at the same rate, not letting batteries discharge below 3.2 volts or so, keeping the battery wraps in clean shape, being careful of hard shorts or even shorting in the atomizer, and knowing what to do to break the connection as fast as possible in the case of autofire or shorting -

Cheers!
 

KoblinV3

Member For 1 Year

Thanks. Yeah so it does show .07ohms as well. Yeah I guess it was just more should I just double the amps that I was wondering but I knew that was right for parallel mechs so idk why I even asked that.

I should have asked what it would be for series because that's the one I wasn't certain of. Just because I'd remembered reading that it didn't matter whether the mod was a series or parallel mech in terms of the resistance (as in build higher for series) but they were talking about regulated series or parallel, not mechanical serial or parallel.

So yeah I got that part down now. Trying to see what people would run a .10ohm build at wattage wise. It shows the wattage as being super high either using ohms law or steam engine for a mech mod. I am running it on a regulated mod but still like 175w is so high.

I can't really do a Clapton on steam engine under the coil section to figure out what wattage equates to a 235 heat flux. That's what I'm going for. Feel like 175w would put me way over a 235 heat flux but at the same time I don't want to be way underpowering the coils. I guess I could always add a wrap or two to make it more reasonable.
 

zephyr

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If you look up Mooch's chart for the battery you have, you will see what voltage it actually puts out under a 30 amp load - well under 4.2 volts

Mech mods also cause some voltage drop as current passes through all the hardware

This info will give you a better idea of wattage with that resistance on a mechanical

175 watts is very high - is that what you're powering that build with? Wattage depends on what kinda vape you like, short hot puffs or longer warm puffs

As long as wattage is high enough to heat a coil somewhat quickly, the rest is preference.
 

KoblinV3

Member For 1 Year
Got to mention though that there's a lot more to parallel mech than just using good batteries and a safe resistance - the design of the mod, care and maintenance, how well it drains each battery at the same rate, not letting batteries discharge below 3.2 volts or so, keeping the battery wraps in clean shape, being careful of hard shorts or even shorting in the atomizer, and knowing what to do to break the connection as fast as possible in the case of autofire or shorting -

Cheers!

Didn't even think of the ohm reading's accuracy. Very good point .Yeah I was just doing the calculation using a parallel mech mod to build it so that it WOULD run onothose batteries if it was a mech. I don't want to run something my mod and batteries WILL do but shouldn't. Yeah I have a single battery Wismec which is a hybrid so it does have a bit of protection.

That's great info though I will definitely keep that in mind. The hard short stuff is kind of scary but yeah definitely gonna be more prepared cause of what you said. I didn't even think of autofiring and the fact that unscrewing your RDA is probably a lot quicker/more efficient than taking our your battery. Keeping me safe. :)


I get really concerned when my voltage drops and I'm like okay this has got to be pretty low considering how much I've been vaping it and it's always like 3.89 lol. Still charge them though just cause I want my batteries to last.

Yeah I finally got a heat gun and wraps/insulators. I got a new charger that's great but it tears up wraps way more easily than my other one so I've gotta be careful. I have like 6 to do though. One was brand new and it fucked it up really quick. That was because I didn't realize how forgiving my other charger was though (Golisi S2) in comparison.
 

KoblinV3

Member For 1 Year
Yeah the Wismec Luxotic I have is a single 18650 so I've never had to concern myself with these things haha. Same with my pulse X. Sick mod btw. I love how tiny it is. I got it so that I'd have a mod where the clone RDAs/small single coil ones look proportionate in size. Definitely works for that and it's portable AF

A .17-.18 build on it is perfect with my Narca/hussar/hadaly. Had to go back to parallels for these tiny RDAs specifically. I switched to claptons for everything else (larger sized RDAs) but with the tiny ones it just restricted my airflow too much.

Even wide open it wasn't getting enough and now with the parallel builds it's nice and consistent flavor wise. Before it was sporadically good and you had to inhale way too hard.
 
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KoblinV3

Member For 1 Year
If you look up Mooch's chart for the battery you have, you will see what voltage it actually puts out under a 30 amp load - well under 4.2 volts

Mech mods also cause some voltage drop as current passes through all the hardware

This info will give you a better idea of wattage with that resistance on a mechanical

175 watts is very high - is that what you're powering that build with? Wattage depends on what kinda vape you like, short hot puffs or longer warm puffs

As long as wattage is high enough to heat a coil somewhat quickly, the rest is preference.

Okay thanks for the info. Yeah so I guess the ramp up might be longer but I figure I might as well take advantage of the Samsung 20S' amps. I'm marrying the batteries to help with stressing out a single battery. Yeah I'll have to look at the chart and see what it puts out under load.

Got 6 VTC5D's coming in to help with longevity while still having decent amp output (25a). Had to get the Vapocell version though since they're sold out everywhere else.

$10 a battery! Worth it considering the VTC6As are like $8 a pop though IMO.
 

KoblinV3

Member For 1 Year
If you look up Mooch's chart for the battery you have, you will see what voltage it actually puts out under a 30 amp load - well under 4.2 volts

Mech mods also cause some voltage drop as current passes through all the hardware

This info will give you a better idea of wattage with that resistance on a mechanical

175 watts is very high - is that what you're powering that build with? Wattage depends on what kinda vape you like, short hot puffs or longer warm puffs

As long as wattage is high enough to heat a coil somewhat quickly, the rest is preference.

Yeah the build isn't going to be a parallel mech. I just used it as a way to build safely for my regulated dual battery squonker. I just didn't want to overpower the batteries.

As far as what vape I go for... I always shoot for whatever wattage equates to the best flavor. For me this always is coincidentally about the level of warmth I prefer. It's like upping the wattage IME improves the flavor (even the subtleties/complexities despite what I've read about people saying a cooler vape is more nuanced) up to a certain wattage and then after that the flavor starts to blend together and become vague and I start to lose certain notes/more subtle flavors.

So it's like increasing wattage improves to a point and then after that point it has the exact opposite effect on the flavor.

I find this doesn't start to happen until the vape is warmer than I like it anyway though so this ends up working out great for me.
 

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