Safe?

[crazysgt]

Was gifted my first mech. Authentic Penny mod with Authentic plume veil. My son built a dual parallel 26g kanthal @ .15 ohms. Powered by a Samsung 25r, this thing safe? Or should I use the Sony VTC4s? Kinda partial to my face. Also, as far as tanks, they ok to use on this mod? Anyone know of a copper 22mm tank? Thanks and Merry Christmas to ya!

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

.15 is as low as I go when not using TC, still get a hot button sometimes with an authentic 20amp continous current 18650.

I only put the VTC4/5s in when Im going that low, though I only have LGs besides that so unsure of the Samsungs.

 

[crazysgt]

Yeah, seems like it may be a bit over the range of the Sammies, may have to grab some LG's @ 35 amp rating along with the VTC4's just to be safe.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

Yeah man, maybe see if your Son is able to throw in a .3 build, I dont find much difference flavor wise, you get better battery life by a small amount, and I use LGs with .3 no problem.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

Steam oHms calculator will be your friend if you're planning on building on Mechs! Ill link it for you.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp

 

[Robert B]

Yeah, seems like it may be a bit over the range of the Sammies, may have to grab some LG's @ 35 amp rating along with the VTC4's just to be safe.

I've used 25r @ .14ohms with no problem. The samsung has a high pulse rating, and at .15ohms, you aren't going to be taking that long of a hit anyway. Like others have said, you will probably enjoy a .2 or .3 just as much.

According to Mooch (battery guru), the LG HB2, HB4 and HB6 are the only true 30amp continuous discharge batteries he's tested. And that includes the VTC4. Nobody makes a 35a CDR battery as far as I know.

What a nice gift. You have one heck of a Son !! Not a big fan of the Plume, but thats one mod definitely on my bucket list.

Any tank should not be problem since it's not a hybrid style mod.

 

[OBDave]

I wouldn't touch a build under 0.2 ohm with someone else's 20 amp battery - the 30 amp VTC4 (provided they're legit, lots of counterfeits of those) is safer, but 0.3 or higher is probably still better starting out.

Do you know how to vape your batteries down to 3.7 volts by feel, or do you have a multimeter and use it religiously?

Here's my thread for beginners using high-powered mods, particularly mechs - please take a look when you've got 15 minutes or so and get back to me here or through PM with questions....

http://www.vapingunderground.com/th...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/

 

[crazysgt]

I wouldn't touch a build under 0.2 ohm with someone else's 20 amp battery - the 30 amp VTC4 (provided they're legit, lots of counterfeits of those) is safer, but 0.3 or higher is probably still better starting out.

Do you know how to vape your batteries down to 3.7 volts by feel, or do you have a multimeter and use it religiously?

Here's my thread for beginners using high-powered mods, particularly mechs - please take a look when you've got 15 minutes or so and get back to me here or through PM with questions....

http://www.vapingunderground.com/th...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/

This is where I take great caution. Honestly, I take about 20 hits off a fully charged battery, then swap out with one from the charger. I have though checked them with a Fluke a time or two just for grins. As well as the ohms on each build. Thanks for the good read too!

 

[OBDave]

This is where I take great caution. Honestly, I take about 20 hits off a fully charged battery, then swap out with one from the charger. I have though checked them with a Fluke a time or two just for grins. As well as the ohms on each build. Thanks for the good read too!

I could usually get more than 20 hits off a mech battery, but I was vaping 0.3-0.5 ohm then - as long as you're not dropping much below 3.6 (3.7 is really ideal) before charging you're good. So is Fluke - I've got a $30 unit from Sears...