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Small rda/rta

CHIEFTANG

CHIEFTANG

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Just got a minivolt and was wondering if you guys could lead me in the direction to a small rda/rta to go with it. If you could post the name and a picture that would be great!!! Thanks for your time!
 
ej1024

ej1024

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CHIEFTANG said:
Just got a minivolt and was wondering if you guys could lead me in the direction to a small rda/rta to go with it. If you could post the name and a picture that would be great!!! Thanks for your time!
Click to expand...
Serpent mini
 
ej1024

ej1024

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7e75925a5b0508b261e6ae34c6e5f958.jpg



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roxynoodle

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Serpent Mini, Bachelor Nano, Pico clone.
 
r055co

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Goblin Mini V2 and either the Royal Hunter Mini or Freakshow Mini
 
Mikhail Naumov

Mikhail Naumov

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Lowpro or Lepton Micro if you really want to go as small as possible. Derringer, Royal Hunter Mini, Wismec Indestructible, Serpent Mini, Goblin Mini V2, Billow V2 Mini, Theorem, 22mm Avocado, Haze Mini series, Mad Hatter / Freakshow Mini.
 
Mikhail Naumov

Mikhail Naumov

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The Mini Volt has absolutely ass battery life, it's powered by an internal low-drain 18450. It's rated higher than it is, if you're above 20-25W don't expect more than a 1/3 of a day at most. It's a really tiny mod, but the battery in it isn't rated for subohming below like .6 in my opinion, it's like a 10A cell if I remember correctly. It's more of a novelty device than anything, I wouldn't use it as a daily driver, it's not got the best battery life and it's dangerous for sub ohming on.
 
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Iliketurtles

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Its 1300mah, it is useful for taking to the shops, movies or whatever when you don't wanna carry a bigger device.
 
Mikhail Naumov

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Most of the Mini Volt users I know favor the standard ohm (above sub-ohm) TFV4 coils with the TFV4 Micro tank. The 1.5 ohm (I think? Not sure as I don't use sub-ohm tanks at all) coil is rated up to like 20W (20W at 1.5 is actual a fair amount of power) and they've all told me they get 4-6 hours out of vaping on a setup like that. They love it, I'm a high wattage lover an I'm an overall brick of a person, if Bigfoot has a cousin it's probably me, Bighand. I don't know if it's the fact that I'm purebred Slavic or genetics, but instead of just having that one awkward part of your body larger than everything else (head, hands, feet, we all know people who just have that one feature(s) that sticks out) it hit me everywhere. So that's great for not looking like a top-heavy bobble head I suppose, but when it comes to small mods that your hand LITERALLY swallows like a python eating a rat, it's not fantastic. I find it uncomfortable to use smaller mods, because either I literally just vape outside of a closed fist, which makes firing the mod annoying, or I have to use like half my hand or less to hold it, which is uncomfortable. These two things, plus the low amperage, low rated battery have had me avoiding it, but if it's your thing tear that shit down until it breaks on you. I just don't personally like it.
 
B

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Coil resistance has nothing to do with battery current or runtime when using a variable wattage device and the statement about sub-ohm'ing being dangerous with this mod is also incorrect.
 
Mikhail Naumov

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I'm an electrical engineer there sport. When you're at 1.5 ohms, 20W on a device that's obviously going to be boosting it since it's single cell. That's a correct statement I made, look up the details of this mod and the battery used, it's not safe for sub ohming below the .5-.6 range over 20-30W. On the low voltage range, you're not going to get a ton of buck (step down) safety benefit out of a mod with only 4.2 max input power. So yeah, it's not an extremely safe mod, I know of three locally that have vented. The battery used in the Mini Volt is a VERY low drain battery, it's not a high drain battery like most 18650's. You literally made me laugh out loud when you said coil resistance has nothing to do with amperage draw and battery life because a mod is regulated. Do you remember that thing called ohms law? Voltage divided by resistance = amperage? Just because you throw in things like boost and buck doesn't change the entire system.

Let's put a hypothetical into play. Say this is a 10A battery. That's low drain. Say you're at 40W at the lowest it'll take, 0.10. This is going to step the output voltage down to 2V. The input voltage is 4.2V, but then there's sag internally, and it's probably going to drop below 4V. Maybe 3.8V or so. Meaning the input current is going to be slightly over 10A, probably 12A or so and your output current will be around 24A. Higher than the continuous output of the 18450 in here. Unsafe. Say you have a 1.0 ohm coil on here at 40W. It's going to boost it to 6.3V. Meaning the output current is going to be around 6A, but again, sag, so the input current is AGAIN going to be around 12-14A. Unsafe with a 10A battery. Regulation doesn't work miracles.

You step down the voltage and then the output current rises while the input (draw) current off the battery lowers. You boost it, then the output current lowers but the input current (draw) rises. This is great in multi-cell mods with high drain batteries, not so great in single cell mods using a low drain battery. In parallel setups you're sharing the overall load among multiple batteries, in series you're going to be drawing less amperage than you would at a given voltage than you would with a setup with less batteries. Meaning using a 4.2V single cell mod using a low drain 18450 with lower sub-ohm and 30-40W 1-1.5 ohm setups isn't exactly going to be safe. Yes regulation makes things safer, but no, it does not make things error-proof. They used a low drain battery in this mod.

EDIT: This talk of Mini Volts influenced me to dig up more on it. I was wrong, it's an 18450. That's even worse. Some people are claiming it's a tabbed 18450 lipo cell, I doubt that but it is possible. The point is, this is a 1,300mah mod with a 1,200mah battery in it. So they're liars, most are so that's not a big deal. The battery is NOT high drain though, I was and still am right about that. 40W or not, a mod firing down to .1 ohms with an 18450 on it? As I said, the fact that loads that low would definitely be buck-only with a 40W mod isn't going to make it much safer as it only has ONE cell, 4.2V. So again, I say, this mod is NOT safe to sub ohm on.

SECOND EDIT: I found it, it IS a tabbed 18450 lithium polymer cell.

http://hgb.en.alibaba.com/product/6..._lithium_polymer_battery_for_E_cigarette.html

I still cannot find jack shit on its amperage limit though, so I'm going to continue assuming it's around 10A.

I am not saying this is a bad mod or a ticking time bomb, I'm just saying I know of THREE cases locally where the internal battery has gone into thermal runaway on this mod. It's not using a high drain battery, you couldn't fit a high drain battery into a mod this small and still expect it to last more than 10 minutes on battery life.
 
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r055co

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I usually vape around 0.2 coils but for a stealth, very portable setup it functions very well. I build for this rig around 1.2-1.5 ohms and vape at around 20 watts. For what it's designed for it does the job.

Goblin mini v2 and Royal Hunter mini is perfect for it.

449ee4da91f3830f7bac98daab62b48e.jpg
734cf744f594055e724362acbb2d932d.jpg


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r055co

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MNaumov92 said:
I'm an electrical engineer there sport. When you're at 1.5 ohms, 20W on a device that's obviously going to be boosting it since it's single cell. That's a correct statement I made, look up the details of this mod and the battery used, it's not safe for sub ohming below the .5-.6 range over 20-30W. On the low voltage range, you're not going to get a ton of buck (step down) safety benefit out of a mod with only 4.2 max input power. So yeah, it's not an extremely safe mod, I know of three locally that have vented. The battery used in the Mini Volt is a VERY low drain battery, it's not a high drain battery like most 18650's. You literally made me laugh out loud when you said coil resistance has nothing to do with amperage draw and battery life because a mod is regulated. Do you remember that thing called ohms law? Voltage divided by resistance = amperage? Just because you throw in things like boost and buck doesn't change the entire system.

Let's put a hypothetical into play. Say this is a 10A battery. That's low drain. Say you're at 40W at the lowest it'll take, 0.10. This is going to step the output voltage down to 2V. The input voltage is 4.2V, but then there's sag internally, and it's probably going to drop below 4V. Maybe 3.8V or so. Meaning the input current is going to be slightly over 10A, probably 12A or so. Higher than the continuous output of the 18450 in here. Unsafe. Say you have a 1.0 ohm coil on here at 40W. It's going to boost it to 6.3V. Meaning the output current is going to be around 6A, but again, sag, so the input current is AGAIN going to be around 12-14A. Unsafe with a 10A battery. Regulation doesn't work miracles.

You step down the voltage in a 4.2V 10A mod and then the output current rises. You boost it, then the output current lowers. This is great in multi-cell mods with high drain batteries, not so great in single cell mods using a low drain battery. Meaning on lower sub-ohm and 30-40W 1-1.5 ohm setups, this isn't exactly going to be safe. Yes regulation makes things safer, but no, it does not make things error-proof. They used a low drain battery in this mod.

EDIT: This talk of Mini Volts influenced me to dig up more on it. I was wrong, it's an 18450. That's even worse. Some people are claiming it's a tabbed 18450 lipo cell, I doubt that but it is possible. The point is, this is a 1,300mah mod with a 1,200mah battery in it. So they're liars, most are so that's not a big deal. The battery is NOT high drain though, I was and still am right about that. 40W or not, a mod firing down to .1 ohms with an 18450 on it? As I said, the fact that loads that low would definitely be buck-only with a 40W mod isn't going to make it much safer as it only has ONE cell, 4.2V. So again, I say, this mod is NOT safe to sub ohm on.

SECOND EDIT: I found it, it IS a tabbed 18450 lithium polymer cell.

http://hgb.en.alibaba.com/product/6..._lithium_polymer_battery_for_E_cigarette.html

I still cannot find jack shit on its amperage limit though, so I'm going to continue assuming it's around 10A.

I am not saying this is a bad mod or a ticking time bomb, I'm just saying I know of THREE cases locally where the internal battery has gone into thermal runaway on this mod. It's not using a high drain battery, you couldn't fit a high drain battery into a mod this small and still expect it to last more than 10 minutes on battery life.
Click to expand...
I second that, if one wants to sub-ohm with a stealth rig get something that is designed for it like the Pico. Myself this is my sub-ohm compact rig.

e716f9d5494b0a09078e7c6e97ac3da2.jpg


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CHIEFTANG

CHIEFTANG

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MNaumov92 said:
I'm an electrical engineer there sport. When you're at 1.5 ohms, 20W on a device that's obviously going to be boosting it since it's single cell. That's a correct statement I made, look up the details of this mod and the battery used, it's not safe for sub ohming below the .5-.6 range over 20-30W. On the low voltage range, you're not going to get a ton of buck (step down) safety benefit out of a mod with only 4.2 max input power. So yeah, it's not an extremely safe mod, I know of three locally that have vented. The battery used in the Mini Volt is a VERY low drain battery, it's not a high drain battery like most 18650's. You literally made me laugh out loud when you said coil resistance has nothing to do with amperage draw and battery life because a mod is regulated. Do you remember that thing called ohms law? Voltage divided by resistance = amperage? Just because you throw in things like boost and buck doesn't change the entire system.

Let's put a hypothetical into play. Say this is a 10A battery. That's low drain. Say you're at 40W at the lowest it'll take, 0.10. This is going to step the output voltage down to 2V. The input voltage is 4.2V, but then there's sag internally, and it's probably going to drop below 4V. Maybe 3.8V or so. Meaning the input current is going to be slightly over 10A, probably 12A or so. Higher than the continuous output of the 18450 in here. Unsafe. Say you have a 1.0 ohm coil on here at 40W. It's going to boost it to 6.3V. Meaning the output current is going to be around 6A, but again, sag, so the input current is AGAIN going to be around 12-14A. Unsafe with a 10A battery. Regulation doesn't work miracles.

You step down the voltage in a 4.2V 10A mod and then the output current rises. You boost it, then the output current lowers. This is great in multi-cell mods with high drain batteries, not so great in single cell mods using a low drain battery. Meaning on lower sub-ohm and 30-40W 1-1.5 ohm setups, this isn't exactly going to be safe. Yes regulation makes things safer, but no, it does not make things error-proof. They used a low drain battery in this mod.

EDIT: This talk of Mini Volts influenced me to dig up more on it. I was wrong, it's an 18450. That's even worse. Some people are claiming it's a tabbed 18450 lipo cell, I doubt that but it is possible. The point is, this is a 1,300mah mod with a 1,200mah battery in it. So they're liars, most are so that's not a big deal. The battery is NOT high drain though, I was and still am right about that. 40W or not, a mod firing down to .1 ohms with an 18450 on it? As I said, the fact that loads that low would definitely be buck-only with a 40W mod isn't going to make it much safer as it only has ONE cell, 4.2V. So again, I say, this mod is NOT safe to sub ohm on.

SECOND EDIT: I found it, it IS a tabbed 18450 lithium polymer cell.

http://hgb.en.alibaba.com/product/6..._lithium_polymer_battery_for_E_cigarette.html

I still cannot find jack shit on its amperage limit though, so I'm going to continue assuming it's around 10A.

I am not saying this is a bad mod or a ticking time bomb, I'm just saying I know of THREE cases locally where the internal battery has gone into thermal runaway on this mod. It's not using a high drain battery, you couldn't fit a high drain battery into a mod this small and still expect it to last more than 10 minutes on battery life.
Click to expand...

What is a safe range then? From what I read I gathered that nothing is safe.
 
Mikhail Naumov

Mikhail Naumov

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Realistically, I'd say going as low as .5 wouldn't hurt up to 40W, but I wouldn't go hard below that at 40W because it's an 18450. 18450's aren't known for their high amperage capabilities, even tabbed li-po 18450's. There's only so much chemistry you can fit into a space that small. Hell, there's DNA40's that are only SLIGHTLY larger than the Mini Volt out there that are much safer for sub-ohming. That being said, 40W is not an ideal amount of wattage for sub-ohming to begin with, but what's less than ideal than sub-ohming with only 40W of headroom is sub-ohming with 40W of headroom using an 18450.
 
Mikhail Naumov

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I don't trust any iStick that's older than the 100W TC due to MANY reports of them bursting into flames when juice leaked into the USB port.
 
r055co

r055co

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MNaumov92 said:
I don't trust any iStick that's older than the 100W TC due to MANY reports of them bursting into flames when juice leaked into the USB port.
Click to expand...
That was my first rig that got me off the Stinkies. Worked great, worked great as a backup and I Vaped it forward to my brother and is still working great.

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roxynoodle

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Yeah, I have istick 50Ws still in use that were from the first run.
 
ej1024

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