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Sony 18650 nc1 in Sig 100w plus

Hi. I've searched the web for some guidance on battery. But it's kinda hard to find a trustworthy vendor in Malaysia.

So here it goes. Few days ago I just got my mod. With a in pack batt branded "best fire". Was afraid of safety issue. Hence gone down with a quest to get a safe batt. And I've ended up with Sony 18650 nc1 with the following spec:

Sony 18650 NC1 2900mAh High-drain Battery- 4C 10A

Now my question here is. I'm using my mod with a horizontech atty. what's the safest setting for me and my mod with this battery?

Also I'm still using the best fire battery that comes with the mod with the following written spec:

3.7v 35A.

Is it safe? Or should I discard it?
Thanks to the community in advance for giving me advise.
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
10 amps for the sony battery is no good! And I'm dump the other one too - sorry.

Can you not find something like the Samsung 25r?
 

Mike H.

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You never mentioned what ohm your coils are...This is the most important deciding factor as to whether or not its safe.
 
Mine is using BTDC (Bottom Turbine Dual Coil) either 0.2 or 0.5 ohm.

Would like to know the safe wattage range without injuring myself and the mod.

Samsung was my first choice. But there aren't much trustworthy vendor over malaysia. Worst case scenario, I'll have to get one here.
 

Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
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Use this calculator: http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm

To be on the safe side, 40 Watts would be the max with a 10amp battery and the .5 coil, 18 Watts with the .2 coil ( won't produce much vapor)

Forget using the bestfire battery, it's a re-wrap of a low grade cell good only for flashlights.

If you can find them LG HE2 and LGHE4's are decent batteries, IMREN also has some good batteries - look for the ones 30 amps upwards, you should be able to find them locally, look for R/C hobby stores or electronic parts stores.
 
Kindly correct me of I'm wrong. Sig 100w plus runs with 2 series batts. Will this double the wattage?

I still have a few .2 coils left with me. What's the worst case that will happen? It will fry the coil? Or worse?
 
Am I reading this correctly. With the series battery. I get a reading like this from the calculator. Meaning I can have a max of 80watts with a 0.2 coil?
 

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Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
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No, it doubles the voltage, and shared the amp load somewhat with 2 batteries. You are still limited to 10 amps by the limitations of your battery, If you run the batteries past their safe amperage limit, you will damage them and possibly cause them to fail and vent. If you are using a sigelei 100w mod, you need good 20 amp batteries at a minimum to be safe, 30 amp batteries to be safe. Your coil won't fry, but you won't be able to push enough watts to get the .2 coils to produce any good vapor at 18 watts (with 10 amp batteries).
 

Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Am I reading this correctly. With the series battery. I get a reading like this from the calculator. Meaning I can have a max of 80watts with a 0.2 coil?

What you put in the calculator shows 20A total, than means 2 of your 10 amp batteries in parallel, not series like the Sigelei. 2 batteries in Series have the same amperage limit as a single battery, you are just doubling the voltage. Make sense?
 
Wow…awesome insight!!! Thanks!! This has more information I needed compared to nights digging the web.

Now…where can I purchase a pair of authentic Samsung 18650 25r from online vendor that ships to Malaysia for a reasonable price?
 

Number3124

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I can't help you with finding a vendor who will ship to Malaysia, but here are the batteries I will recommend. If you can find them for a reasonable price (between $8-$10 USD [I'm afraid I don't know the currency of Malaysia]) and reassurance that they're the real deal and not fakes buy them.

LG: HE2 and HE4
Samsung: 25r
Sony: VTC3, VTC4, and VTC5

I'd only get the VTC3 if you can't find anything else. They have low capacity (1,600 mAh). However, they are able to push 30 amps without flinching and will let you get the most out of your mod watts-wise. The VTC4 will also push 30 amps without even slowing down and also have a decent capacity (2,100 mAh).

The 25r, HE2, and HE4 are all basically the same battery. 20 amps MCD, and 2,500 mAh. They'll go all day long and should be able to let you max out the wattage.

The VTC5 is sort of the holy grail. It's 20 amp MCD, but it's 2,600 mAh. It can max out the wattage (granted it'll be straining unlike it's 30 amp MCD brothers) and will go longer than any other battery on the list. It's also the single most counterfeited battery on the list so buyer beware.

I'd look for the LGs or Samsungs. Good hunting.
 
well...just got my Samsung 25R, am testing the volt supply see if its stable, how do i know if its fake or original? what are the consequences? i don't mind a shorter batt life, but i do mind about my own safety and my mod's well being.

also on the side, im running on a 0.5coil, but the reading on my mod shows im running on .2?? this got me confused, any advise here?
 

Jon@LiionWholesale

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
well...just got my Samsung 25R, am testing the volt supply see if its stable, how do i know if its fake or original? what are the consequences? i don't mind a shorter batt life, but i do mind about my own safety and my mod's well being.

also on the side, im running on a 0.5coil, but the reading on my mod shows im running on .2?? this got me confused, any advise here?

Hard to know if it's fake or original without specialized equipment. But if you check your batteries and see if they're getting hot that should give you comfort that they can handle what you're making them do. Just check them as you're vaping for a little bit until you're comfortable. You should be able to easily hold the battery in your hand.
 

NemesisVaper

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There are a few things to check but one of them requires you remove or at least cut the wrap at the negative terminal.

The wrap should be see through enough to see serial numbers, two lines, one of four characters (numbers and letters) and one of 5 numbers. Further down should be another mixed 4 character serial . Under the wrap that covers a small portion of the negative terminal there will be a character stamped into the terminal. Could be
any character, it changes.
The more easy to see characteristics should be a positive contact with three legs, and the insulator ring should appear slightly glossy compared to say an LG HE4, which looks more papery.

As Jon said the only true way is proper analysis and these features could all be cloned if they wanted to. Only an indication of their being genuine.
 

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