Strange problem with box mod? help?

[snoodles]

Ok so basically i bought a Hammer of God box mod clone about a week and a half ago give or take, the mod worked great it was an amazing vape and batteries lasted forever. Well one day i went and redid the coils on my mutation X v4 it was just a basic build just two six wrap coils of 24G kanthol and it came out to be about .25 which is what i smoke at regularly, I went to go and fire the coils to compress them and the mod fired for maybe a second then just stopped firing completely. I took my RDA and put it on my slojo and it worked fine and even tried multiple different RDAs on the hammer of god and none of them will fire at all. Does anyone have any idea why it would just stop firing like that? The insulator is still intact and i cant seem to find anything wrong with it. any ideas?


Also the built in volt meter will turn on if there is no RDA attached the second an RDA is attached it wont even show a reading.

 

[TF Vaping]

Check inner connection on the bottom of the 510 if you haven't already.

Don't look under the Bridge

 

[snoodles]

the inner connection is solid, it only cuts
out when i attach an RDA

 

[TF Vaping]

Im trying to find pictures of the inside and I can't, I imagine its function is mechanical besides the volt meter which would just be wired in to the 510. I have a Dimitri that works on the same basic idea and had terrible problems setting it up with pins and all. Can you post a few pictures?

Don't look under the Bridge

 

[snoodles]

 

[snoodles]

sorry for the double but yeah those are the internals.

 

[snoodles]

a shot from the other side

 

[TF Vaping]

Does it have an auto adjusting spring loaded pin in the 510? To me it seems like the rdas pin is what is causing a break in continuity, which is why your voltmeter is going out. At first I was thinking switch because clones aren't known to have good switches but now I'd place blame on the 510.

Don't look under the Bridge

 

[Zamazam]

Possible connection issues with the wires/cold solder joints or a blown mosfet, or poorly soldered connections to the switch and or mosfet.

 

[snoodles]

Does it have an auto adjusting spring loaded pin in the 510? To me it seems like the rdas pin is what is causing a break in continuity, which is why your voltmeter is going out. At first I was thinking switch because clones aren't known to have good switches but now I'd place blame on the 510.

Don't look under the Bridge

no it does not have a springloaded pin

 

[TF Vaping]

I would assume a weak connection on the pin then, now why it worked before hand I don't know but I know my Dimitri would do the same thing. Are the solder joints firm?

Don't look under the Bridge

 

[snoodles]

Possible connection issues with the wires/cold solder joints or a blown mosfet, or poorly soldered connections to the switch and or mosfet.

if it is the mosfet is there anyway to replace it? Ive never dealt with something like this before that i couldnt figure out.

 

[snoodles]

I would assume a weak connection on the pin then, now why it worked before hand I don't know but I know my Dimitri would do the same thing. Are the solder joints firm?

Don't look under the Bridge

they seem to be pretty solid, but i did notice when you tighten or loosen the pin in the 510 the entire lower part of the connector that has the wires soldered to it would spin, but as far as i know this is a common issues and shouldnt effect the operation of the mod in anyway.

 

[TF Vaping]

they seem to be pretty solid, but i did notice when you tighten or loosen the pin in the 510 the entire lower part of the connector that has the wires soldered to it would spin, but as far as i know this is a common issues and shouldnt effect the operation of the mod in anyway.

I just don't know bud, haven't messed with the mod, what is the solid connection from the collar on the 510 to the battery plate? And reading what the guy said earlier, does that box even have a MOSFET? If you have a multimeter you could check a few points on box to see where the power stops.

Don't look under the Bridge

 

[Zamazam]

Take a multimeter and set it for dc volts. Positive (red) probe on the center 510 pin, negative (black) on the 510 base, it will take a bit of fangeling, but press the fire switch and see if the 510 is getting power. if it is, then your issue is with the 510 pin/connector. Look at the center 510 positive connector, is is smushed down to where the little o ring is deformed or slightly covering the center 510 positive pin?

 

[snoodles]

Take a multimeter and set it for dc volts. Positive (red) probe on the center 510 pin, negative (black) on the 510 base, it will take a bit of fangeling, but press the fire switch and see if the 510 is getting power. if it is, then your issue is with the 510 pin/connector. Look at the center 510 positive connector, is is smushed down to where the little o ring is deformed or slightly covering the center 510 positive pin?

I just did that and it wont even fire, it does the same thing that it does when i have an RDA attached, so i would just assume the 510 isnt getting power?


Edit: sorry i am a moron, i had it set for amps not volts -.- but yes the 510 is getting power and it is reading correctly

Edit2: so i messed with the 510 pin and i got it to fire, but it is barely firing takes about 3 seconds to even produce a minute vapor, plus with the multimeter it was only getting about 1.1 volts

 

[snoodles]

Bump

 

[VAPEROXX]

My HOG V2 is an authentic, but the 510 pin on mine is adjustable and moves a bit when an atty is removed or installed. Have you checked for proper adjustment of the 510 pin?

 

[VAPEROXX]

Also the clones and authentic V1s are known to spin the entire 510 connector if an atty is over tightened, which can cause a bad solder connection at the 510.

 

[andyl]

Man everything about the internals on that box is wrong. I doesn't have a mosfet btw. It's a mech switch going straight to the 510. The soldering is really poor also which 80% of the time is why these clones fail. The other obvious thing is because it's a mech switch oxidisation builds up very quickly at the contact point which will cause intermittent faults followed by complete failure. If you haven't got it sorted yet I would personally rip iit apart and start again or at least clean the contacts. And I hate hot glue it's such a corner cutter.

 

[VAPEROXX]

Ok so basically i bought a Hammer of God box mod clone about a week and a half ago give or take, the mod worked great it was an amazing vape and batteries lasted forever. Well one day i went and redid the coils on my mutation X v4 it was just a basic build just two six wrap coils of 24G kanthol and it came out to be about .25 which is what i smoke at regularly, I went to go and fire the coils to compress them and the mod fired for maybe a second then just stopped firing completely. I took my RDA and put it on my slojo and it worked fine and even tried multiple different RDAs on the hammer of god and none of them will fire at all. Does anyone have any idea why it would just stop firing like that? The insulator is still intact and i cant seem to find anything wrong with it. any ideas?


Also the built in volt meter will turn on if there is no RDA attached the second an RDA is attached it wont even show a reading.

I cleaned the firing button/510 washer on mine with a metal fingernail file to fix firing issues due to arcing corrosion. The authentics get this about once a month, and it's a very easy fix.