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Subtank????
- Thread starter cordar
- Start date
Ok so you are either a dripper guy or a tank guy. Trust me when I say all the female vapers prefer a dripper guy lol. But honestly a tank is easier to deal with, it's for beginners who don't know how to build or people who enjoy vaping on the go and prefer a cleaner vape experience. (Less juice everywhere) RDA'S can be re built on and blow wayyy bigger clouds depending on your coil build. It's more fun in my opinion. But it uses way more juice than a tank also. It all comes down to personal preference. I drip, but I own a aspire atlantis 2.0 tank also. Keep calm and vape on bro.
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A Subtank is generally a tank that utilizes sub Ohm coils (< 1 Ohm), either replaceable or build your own coil(s).
A RTA (Rebuildable Tank Atomizer) can be a regular tank or a Subtank, depending on the coil's resistance. However, you have to build your own coil(s), thus the name RTA. It's also referred to as a RBA.
If the coil(s) you are utilizing are below 1 Ohm resistance, yes.
Just make sure, your device/mod can handle the resistance.
This female vaper prefers a flexible guy who can vape on anything with confidence. 
Also, keep in mind, OP, that an rta (rebuildable tank atomizer) is not really for beginners. The building space is quite tight so it's easy to short. Once you can rebuild an rta coil (like a Kanger Subtank) or deck (like the Zephyrus 4 post deck) the convenience of having your preferred build fed by a tank of fluid can't be beat. I prefer the Zephyrus because I can do a dual coil 24g to 30g build at whatever ohm reading I'm craving and it works flawlessly on my Sig 150, SX Mini or any of my 510 tube or box mechs. You just have to pair the build with capable batteries. I find that it comes very close to some of my rdas (rebuildable drip atomizers) for flavor and cloud production. It may even top a couple of them.
I also like my Starre and Herakles tanks with prebuilds when I'm in a bind and pressed for time.
Good luck!
Also, keep in mind, OP, that an rta (rebuildable tank atomizer) is not really for beginners. The building space is quite tight so it's easy to short. Once you can rebuild an rta coil (like a Kanger Subtank) or deck (like the Zephyrus 4 post deck) the convenience of having your preferred build fed by a tank of fluid can't be beat. I prefer the Zephyrus because I can do a dual coil 24g to 30g build at whatever ohm reading I'm craving and it works flawlessly on my Sig 150, SX Mini or any of my 510 tube or box mechs. You just have to pair the build with capable batteries. I find that it comes very close to some of my rdas (rebuildable drip atomizers) for flavor and cloud production. It may even top a couple of them.
I also like my Starre and Herakles tanks with prebuilds when I'm in a bind and pressed for time.
Good luck!
I don't mess around w sub ohm unless it's w tank n coils made for it
I know people who blew out mods w RBA and not even sub ohm lol
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I know people who blew out mods w RBA and not even sub ohm lol
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...No she doesn't.
Trying to wrap this all into a simple response...
The new "sub-tanks" are the latest generation of what used to be called clearomizers - tanks with replaceable coils that came built and wicked from the factory that you can unscrew and throw away when they're roached, replacing with a new store-bought unit or, for the intrepid, tear apart and rebuild at home. Some of them, namely the Kanger Subtank, come with screw-in units that are specifically made to be rebuilt at home. Most use coils with a resistance below 1 ohm, hence the "sub-ohm" or "sub-tank."
RBAs are "ReBuildable Atomizers" with tanks, as opposed to RDAs, or "Rebuildable Dripping Atomizers" without.You could build them to run sub-ohm, or at higher resistances, but the key is that you build them yourself, there's no option to buy a plug-and-play solution from the tank's manufacturer.
If you're using a sub-tank with the rebuildable attachment, technically you've got an RBA, though most would still consider it a sub-tank because it has a factory coil option.
The new "sub-tanks" are the latest generation of what used to be called clearomizers - tanks with replaceable coils that came built and wicked from the factory that you can unscrew and throw away when they're roached, replacing with a new store-bought unit or, for the intrepid, tear apart and rebuild at home. Some of them, namely the Kanger Subtank, come with screw-in units that are specifically made to be rebuilt at home. Most use coils with a resistance below 1 ohm, hence the "sub-ohm" or "sub-tank."
RBAs are "ReBuildable Atomizers" with tanks, as opposed to RDAs, or "Rebuildable Dripping Atomizers" without.You could build them to run sub-ohm, or at higher resistances, but the key is that you build them yourself, there's no option to buy a plug-and-play solution from the tank's manufacturer.
If you're using a sub-tank with the rebuildable attachment, technically you've got an RBA, though most would still consider it a sub-tank because it has a factory coil option.
My brother for starters whalla his RSST build blew out his 18650 batteries.
My kayfun once was somehow built
Where my red battery never took a charge again.
Here in lacey there's a store if u want proof I can get it!
My kayfun once was somehow built
Where my red battery never took a charge again.
Here in lacey there's a store if u want proof I can get it!
I don't mean Blow up in his face lol
I meant the battery took a dive it burnt out
This is what I mean where yeah I won't even attempt building I am what u call a "newbie" I wrap screw in two pins stick a coil cut fold done.
Only did on kayfun.
Hence why I love love my arctic and subtank lol
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I meant the battery took a dive it burnt out
This is what I mean where yeah I won't even attempt building I am what u call a "newbie" I wrap screw in two pins stick a coil cut fold done.
Only did on kayfun.
Hence why I love love my arctic and subtank lol
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I'm offended why would anyone say I'm lying?
I had an SID and a kayfun.
I had a kayfun built BUT the battery never once took a charge again.
I am unsure if my statement sounded wrong or if nobody ever had a battery take a dive due to a build.
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I had an SID and a kayfun.
I had a kayfun built BUT the battery never once took a charge again.
I am unsure if my statement sounded wrong or if nobody ever had a battery take a dive due to a build.
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I have an I stick 50 watt box mod and an atlantis sub ohm tank. I can fill it up with juice and out Lars about half a day on a fill.it's handy I can vapour and put it in my pocket. With the copper I have to carry a small bottle of juice.I guess there isn't much I the difference.I use the tank during the day and for a good strong hit I use the copper at night. The copper is a mutation v3 .I use that on an un regulated battery mod, chic hath get is brook he st the moment do I'm not using it much this weather. Hope that helps some little bit
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hey people i got my self a subtank nano and the glass has chiped and i cant understand why as is had amazing reviews so why would this happend iv done everything i was meant to do iv just upgraded from the kangertech aerotank v2 witch iv had no end of problems with im testing all kind of ecigs out i just cant get my head around how they can charge so much for somthing that just brakes in a day of having all help is true and welcome some please help as its doing my nut in i cant afford to keep paying out for this stuff im ament to be saving money and giving up smoking but buy the looks of this smoking looks cheeper ahahaha
No I just filled it up and when I closed it I chiped it no leak just chiped
yes i did but iv not put the new glass on yet
Okay, so you broke the tank putting it together wrong. You have the parts to fix it, but since you only did a little bit of damage you're still using the broken part, and from the sounds of it the device is working properly. Not sure I understand the complaint/question...
Yh it has a chip in the glass works fine but its annoying and also if I leave it about half hour I get a brun tast for a few puffs then its ok why is this
http://signaturetips.com/kanger-subtank-nano-mini-replacement-tank.html
i would so recommend this for for the subtank mini and the nano as they can crack and chip the glass easy
i would so recommend this for for the subtank mini and the nano as they can crack and chip the glass easy
That's a weird one, the dry hits after it's been sitting. I always poke a couple indentations in the cotton at the liquid ports in my OCC horizontal coil heads, I find I can't get them to wick properly or work above about 17 watts if I don't.