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switch mod

IMFire3605

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Switch mod and the 18650 is a lg hg2 the brown one

Extremely low resistance build being chain vaped, yes the whole mod, atty, and battery will get warm, high amps and high watts = everything gets warm. More amps you pull from a battery, faster it warms up. More watts pushed through the coil, faster the atomizer gets warm. With those two warm items, plus the mod body is part of the circuit, plus thermal conduction, the mod warms up.

The switch mod if I remember right the battery vents are in the button/switch assembly, and the atty connection is direct to battery (no positive pin contact in the mod top cap). Lowest safe resistance for those LG HG2 batteries being tested as 18amp CDR, not 20amp CDR is 0.23ohms (18amps at 4.2v fresh charge. Recommended resistance is 0.42ohms (10amps at 4.2v fresh charge)). 0.23ohms will heat the batteries rapidly being at max amp pull for them, 0.42 is gentler on them, 0.23 or close to that, one miscalculation or inadvertent short/auto fire/pocket fire, there is no safety room, leading to higher risk of a battery melt down. I suggest religiously to Mech users, running a mech use 30amp batteries, only 3 of those, LG HB2/4/6 1500mah, alternates up to 28amps, Sony VTC3, 25amps Sony VTC5A, LG HD2/HD2C/HD4.


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IMFire3605

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
The atty is the swich mod rda and the resistance is .15 ohm

0.15, really 0.15 on a battery manufacturer rated at 20amps continuous and independently tested at 18amps continuous, and taking that battery to 29amps constantly, and you wonder why your mod is hot?

0.14 to 0.25ohms is in the play ground for a dual parallel mech box only, not on a single battery mod, there is not safety room for a mishap. Up your resistance to at least 0.42ohms for those LG brownies and get yourself some LG HB series 30amps, then go no lower than 0.25ohms. "DO NOT LISTEN TO YOUR BUDDIES AS TO WHAT IS REALLY SAFE" with pulse ratings or whatever bullshit They think they know. Pulse is only safe if you can keeps those batteries cooled via an active fan or liquid cooling system, not passive air.

Once above 50% of a batteries CDR without active cooling, you simmer and cook the battery insides, this alters their chemical structure, that alteration decreases their out put and mah, where when heavily taxed as you have done those 18amps are now aged to about 9amps after a month to 3 months. Geesh, can give a person a drivers license but does not mean they can truly drive a car. Retire that mech until you do your proper research and drill this formula into your head

4.2 volts fresh charge/resistance (your ohm's)=your max amps


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