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TCR settings you find work on the Realeaux RX200
- Thread starter OneBadWolf
- Start date
TFV4
Clapton RBA
single 304 SS 4mm spaced 0.22 Ohm
TCR 105
Clapton RBA
single 304 SS 4mm spaced 0.22 Ohm
TCR 105
With a .3 aspire triton coil in my Starre,108 seemed to work well. When I attached my Herakles plus with a .2 coil it was off so I need to mess around with it. I still need to find a good setting for the crown tank. I still would like to know what the actual SS setting is set for. Some places I'm reading 317L, others 316L. Can anyone confirm or clear it up?
very interesting...m1 @ 0650 works nicely...also used the same on the dna profile 8...trying very hard to like the crown coils, this is helping
A mem reg set to 0125 to match the SS mode performance with my 0.5 Crown head at 45w/440F.
Shouldn't work, I know... but it does. On mine.
EDIT: Since I just tested this for someone else, I'll add it here...
Same results using a Velocity Mini with dual 316Ls at 0.18.
Temp protect works the same in either mode, but the jacked up TCR of the mem slot may blow dry hit prevention. Don't know, don't feel like testing.
I have my TCR set so that even if the temp was set to 600 degrees it won't give a burnt hit. That lets me know the temp protect is working as it should...
What temp are you running that at?
Standard SS mode is supposedly set for 316L, I have a dual coil 7 wrap build with 316L SS in a Goblin that came out to 0.18 ohms. I'm running it between 500ºF
So many conflicting reports, I'd love to get a definitive answer
well, maybe the earlier posts and naysayers are right...maybe the temperature coefficient of resistivity is too flat on stainless steel and the 1000's of posts reflecting that are correct...maybe stainless steel isnt ready for temperature protect prime time yet...when you have to use another wire tcr to get it to vape to your standards thats just silly ...
just putting that out there for folks to consider...
yes its been done by manipulating the numbers, but, when you do that, your accuracy is out the window...
not trying to kick dirt onto your dinner plate, im just looking at reality, so far...
plus the chinese are less than up front with us customers as far as what they are doing...
Reading as I'm blissfully vaping on 304 SS in temperature controlled goodness.......
Could the problem be that Crown SS coils use 2 different types of wire, and if the leg portion of one coil is very slightly longer than another coil, might that account for the discrepancy?
Possibly. I don't care. I don't have a Crown tank, and I build my coils, don't buy them.
Spoiler. Of course its done by manipulating the numbers. That is how algorithms work, and what they are for.
Now, what I suspect is at the heart of your post. Accuracy. Accuracy of holding temp? I don't think there are many who will dispute that the RX does this very well on SS.
What I think you are referring to, is the correlation to the indicated temp.
Here's the deal. If you just want a consistant vape to your taste, adjust the temp to what you like, and the RX will maintain it.
If you want the temp " accuratly " caliberated, you will need to perform a cotton burn test, and adjust the TCR until at 420F it very slightly singes. Then, it is accurate. That is what I do, because I'm picky.
If I just moved the temp up and down, trusting my own taste as the determination of where it should be, functionaly, it works just as well.
Or maybe its a Chinese conspiracy. You should probably sell your RX. I'll give you 50% of new for it. Do you take Bitcoin?
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not looking to sell my rx, my sx mini, my dna200...i get along fine with them...
im a mouth to lung vapor, so the majority of the subtanks out there dont fit my vape style and i dont use them much...
was just pointing out the fact that a battery mod maker from china that uses 304 as their ss temp base and the factory across the street that makes the coil heads is using 316 with nr legs doesnt make much sense...the hobbyists are resposible for all the advancements made to date...
the mainstream vaper just wants to vape and not smoke...it took a decade for the hobbyists to get china to stop using ce4 plastic tanks and cheap silica wick...if your not going to support evolv, then the least you can do as a hobbyist is convince china to stop the bullshit games and get more serious...right...
not trolling and not badmouthing hobbyists...
just giving the mainstream vaper looking to expand his vaping a bit of insight into how new temp protection is and the problems that exist
I own a Realeaux DNA200 and am a member of the Evolve Early Adopters forum. Most of the members there are hobbyists. Evolve has likely sold more boards to Wismec than all the other mod manufactureres combined.
Evolve could have made the descision to commission JayBo to make the Realeaux for them, Wismec is not keeping him as a hostage in a missile silo in the PRC. ( I hope ).
I also have both a deceased RX AND a deceased DNA. I've examined both boards, and the RX shares some design features with the Evolve, but is massively different in many ways.
Evolve does not pay their robots who manufacture the DNA boards appreciably more than the Chinese do.
I agree the Realeaux iDNA200 s a better mod than the RX. I'd rather have 2 or three RXs for the money a DNA costs.
Do not blame anyone for Evolve's business descions. They could have done the same thing Wismec did. But they didn't.
Now, back to what settings are known to work, instead of starting shit, and saying it dosn't work.
As I have another SS TC vape that is nothing short of exquisite.
I wonder if someone has not done the update..... lolol
It was posted earlier that the ss crown coils run good with a tcr around 108...
LutherBlissett
Member For 4 Years
Has snickering always been a word, or was it invented because sniggering is racist?Are you snickering at me?
Not trying to offend. Genuinely curious about language and stuff.
LutherBlissett
Member For 4 Years
I have been trying to revive it ever since reading this: http://www.slate.com/articles/news_and_politics/fighting_words/2006/12/eschew_the_taboo.html
LutherBlissett
Member For 4 Years
It's by the late Christopher Hitchens. ...Very much worth reading, I assure you!
Try these TCR settings for the RX200:
Ni200 : 0520 (I ended up settling on 0580 and 440F/40watts for the Crown factory Ni200 coils)*
T1: 0350
NiFe30 : 0320
SS 304 : 0105
SS 316 : 0092
SS 317 : 0088
SS 410 : 0155
SS 430 : 0138
I found these on the net and copied them to notepad a while back. I can't remember where. I multiplied the actual TCR values by 100,000 to get these settings. Let me know how they work for you. TCR 0105 for 304 SS is the only one I've tried, but it works perfectly for me at around 420-450 F and 30-35 watts depending on the juice. However, I don't like a hot vape.
* update
Ni200 : 0520 (I ended up settling on 0580 and 440F/40watts for the Crown factory Ni200 coils)*
T1: 0350
NiFe30 : 0320
SS 304 : 0105
SS 316 : 0092
SS 317 : 0088
SS 410 : 0155
SS 430 : 0138
I found these on the net and copied them to notepad a while back. I can't remember where. I multiplied the actual TCR values by 100,000 to get these settings. Let me know how they work for you. TCR 0105 for 304 SS is the only one I've tried, but it works perfectly for me at around 420-450 F and 30-35 watts depending on the juice. However, I don't like a hot vape.
* update
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Great thread, thanks
Wire: 316L 26 gauge
Build: .3 ohm dual 9 wrap 2.5mm internal diameter on Velocity
TCR: 125
Temp: 420
Watts: 70
For me when the TCR is 120, temp protection is reached to quickly. With TCR 130 it takes too long to reach temp protection. I am using 70W because I like a quick ramp up. Anything below TCR 115 seems to reach temp protection before any vapor is produced. TCR 125 does it for me.
Wire: 316L 26 gauge
Build: .3 ohm dual 9 wrap 2.5mm internal diameter on Velocity
TCR: 125
Temp: 420
Watts: 70
For me when the TCR is 120, temp protection is reached to quickly. With TCR 130 it takes too long to reach temp protection. I am using 70W because I like a quick ramp up. Anything below TCR 115 seems to reach temp protection before any vapor is produced. TCR 125 does it for me.
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I have an iStick Pico and a Cuboid and have a .14ohm ni200 coil in my Mako Shorty. I've got the Pico set to 656 and the Cuboid set to 652 in TCR and at 48W and anywhere from 420-480F gives a great vape on both.
Setting the temperature and the wattage the same on the RX and using a TCR anywhere from 640-680 (tried 10 random settings in between just to get a feel) it was consistently weak. I realize I can just up the temp limit if need be, but I'd rather see if someone has another idea first...
Sorry if this isn't the place for questions versus a definitive "this is good"!
Setting the temperature and the wattage the same on the RX and using a TCR anywhere from 640-680 (tried 10 random settings in between just to get a feel) it was consistently weak. I realize I can just up the temp limit if need be, but I'd rather see if someone has another idea first...
Sorry if this isn't the place for questions versus a definitive "this is good"!
If you never see Temperature Protect while vaping (it is kind of hard without a mirror or somebody), you need to turn up the wattage. If you see Temperature Protect toggled on and off while vaping... well it is something else. I have four DNA200 mods and two RX200 and they are very close vaping Ni200 on TC between them. Say my chart says Ni200 is 620 for a TCR value. Where did you get your numbers? 620 should give you a warmer vape by the way. I just checked with steam-engine.org and it shows 608 for a TCR.
I was just fiddling with the TCR values based on a) the Pico and Cuboid books, which I have on me (but not the RX) and b) places I've read online and c) just by feel. The Pico and Cuboid books have a pretty large range for nickel, both say 600-700. All I really know is at the values they are set, those two devices are working great and as expected (hitting temp protection as expected).
It's the opposite with the RX, it's hitting TC too fast/almost immediately with the same coil/same settings.
So turning DOWN the TCR should give a warmer vape? I'll try 620 or 608 or both if need be on the RX and see what it does. I still don't totally understand why the other two would be working so well in the mid 650s and needing a fairly different one for the RX. I haven't fiddled with the TC too much on my RX yet; is there any chance there's something weird going on or if the chip is working as it should in wattage is that unlikely?
ed: 620 is definitely an improvement, still a little weak but much better.
It's the opposite with the RX, it's hitting TC too fast/almost immediately with the same coil/same settings.
So turning DOWN the TCR should give a warmer vape? I'll try 620 or 608 or both if need be on the RX and see what it does. I still don't totally understand why the other two would be working so well in the mid 650s and needing a fairly different one for the RX. I haven't fiddled with the TC too much on my RX yet; is there any chance there's something weird going on or if the chip is working as it should in wattage is that unlikely?
ed: 620 is definitely an improvement, still a little weak but much better.
@damndirtyvapes: Yeah I don't know why the Pico and Cuboid would work better higher. To be honest, figuring out the true TCR for a given wire is tough since manufacturing process is different and alloys could be different. Plus the wire size changes the real TCR too. So TCR values are really only recommendations and I think most of them assume you are using 26g wire.
As far the RX200 popping almost into temperature protect almost immediately. For most mods, that means the wattage is too high. But I have seen this with the RX200 only with SS wire and it could go into temp protect the instant you hit the fire button. You may get some heat or none at all. This is a bug somewhere and the temporary fix is to reflash the firmware (usually lower to back to the same version). That fix worked on both of mine, but then one of mine did it again like 2 weeks later. Reflashing didn't work that time and that one doesn't do TC anymore with SS wire.
As far the RX200 popping almost into temperature protect almost immediately. For most mods, that means the wattage is too high. But I have seen this with the RX200 only with SS wire and it could go into temp protect the instant you hit the fire button. You may get some heat or none at all. This is a bug somewhere and the temporary fix is to reflash the firmware (usually lower to back to the same version). That fix worked on both of mine, but then one of mine did it again like 2 weeks later. Reflashing didn't work that time and that one doesn't do TC anymore with SS wire.
@BillW50 at the moment I think the almost immediate temp protect was just a wrong TCR value, maybe. Right now it's basically doing the trick at 620. 608 didn't seem to be any better, not a big difference actually but I didn't keep it there for too long. Also, unlike what it sounds like you're saying, I was getting a reasonable amount of heat even when it hit temp protection quickly, it's funny that what feels like thin vapor and small production now is still often much more than what once was. (I've been vaping since early 2010.) It was just super weak and not a satisfying vape. I don't usually set my wattage very high even in TC... I was running at 50W when it was doing that. Based on how it's working now I think it was just the TCR being off.
For now I guess I just won't question the fact that the values are a bit different across the three devices. Like I said, it's the same coil so it shouldn't be a matter of differing gague in this case. Oh well, whatever, at least they're all doing the trick now Thanks!
So I guess I'll log this... 28g nickel in an RDA at 620 is working pretty well.
For now I guess I just won't question the fact that the values are a bit different across the three devices. Like I said, it's the same coil so it shouldn't be a matter of differing gague in this case. Oh well, whatever, at least they're all doing the trick now
Thanks!So I guess I'll log this... 28g nickel in an RDA at 620 is working pretty well.
So I haven't seen many people posting on use of kanthol with TC. I've seen a whole lot of don't do it, honestly.
However, I might have found a sweet spot.
I have a preference to longer pulls and kanthol, this can make things difficult with 'higher' wattage. As I want it to heat up quick enough to make the cloud I want (habits of inhaling right as I press the button) but also not fry my cotton. So my usual work around was .50ohm or so on about 50 watts. This heats it up quick but I was forced to start letting go / re-firing to get the exact feel I wanted. I saw that the code for running kanthol is 0002 so I worked with that and was able to come up with epic settings and being able to round to my favorable number. (hah)
Aspire cleito: .43ohm (kanthol)
TCR: 0005 (m3)
Watttage: 55.0W
TC: 115°c
Correct me if I'm wrong..
This heats the coil at 55 watts to a temp a ture of 115°c. Once it hits tha temp I get the temp protection reading, this holds the temperature at its current rate (115° based on the setting) so that the coil doesn't fry (makes sense for SS NI or Ti but kanthol?)
I feel like it's the sweet spot for the cotton itself not to burn up, at least for a long enough period of time to vaporize enough VG at a strong yet steady rate to fill mah lungs. But not burn through to the cotton.. and I don't have to let off the fire button to try and manually hold that sweet spot temperature.
At the very least it kind of acts as a warning. Although sometimes I've noticed that it will randomly put it back into wattage mode if I set my wattage too low in temp mode... thoughts?
However, I might have found a sweet spot.
I have a preference to longer pulls and kanthol, this can make things difficult with 'higher' wattage. As I want it to heat up quick enough to make the cloud I want (habits of inhaling right as I press the button) but also not fry my cotton. So my usual work around was .50ohm or so on about 50 watts. This heats it up quick but I was forced to start letting go / re-firing to get the exact feel I wanted. I saw that the code for running kanthol is 0002 so I worked with that and was able to come up with epic settings and being able to round to my favorable number. (hah)
Aspire cleito: .43ohm (kanthol)
TCR: 0005 (m3)
Watttage: 55.0W
TC: 115°c
Correct me if I'm wrong..
This heats the coil at 55 watts to a temp a ture of 115°c. Once it hits tha temp I get the temp protection reading, this holds the temperature at its current rate (115° based on the setting) so that the coil doesn't fry (makes sense for SS NI or Ti but kanthol?)
I feel like it's the sweet spot for the cotton itself not to burn up, at least for a long enough period of time to vaporize enough VG at a strong yet steady rate to fill mah lungs. But not burn through to the cotton.. and I don't have to let off the fire button to try and manually hold that sweet spot temperature.
At the very least it kind of acts as a warning. Although sometimes I've noticed that it will randomly put it back into wattage mode if I set my wattage too low in temp mode... thoughts?
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I VERY MUCH WISH TO REPLY REGARDING KANTHAL AND TEMP CONTROL.... TCR grants us the power to do this but calculating the TCR is very difficult. In C° TCR = R2 - R1/R1(T2 - T1)*10^-6. THIS FORMULA IS FOR RESISTORS OF COURSE AND IN A WAY that is all a coil is BUT it is more complex. The value under most circumstances is longer than 4 places post decimal point. In the chart above even Kanthal was listed as .00002 to round up to .0001 would be mathematical error to a magnitude of 10. I build wonderful things and could build even more and better if they would tell us exactly what formula they use to convert the 4 digits we put in for the TCR value and how they apply it in the code to control the temperature. Or if they let us do the math and then give us a chart to convert it to the 4 decimal places they allow us to use. I've turned Itaste 134b into LIGHTSABRES that can be used with the lighted tube on or off. My vapor stands use a hybrid of Neon but in flexible tubing and generate no heat. It's not LED or that would cause bright spots in the Lightsabre and vaporstands. I have other inventions like a temp sensitive tip top that has a tank and buttons to drop a little oil on the coil. I can build anything if they give me the math.
I always was led to believe that say Ni200 is 0.00620 from the chart. Which is the same thing as 620 TCR you enter for a value. And Kanthal would be entered as 002. Although the current state of mods will not be able to read the slight resistance change that small. Heck many have trouble with SS316 which is 092.
The application of the TCR value is simple...
For each degree increase, the resistance will rise by "TCR value" times "starting resistance".
That's in Celsius I believe.
The higher the starting resistance, the greater the rise per degree. And the easier for the mod to track.
Is that what you're asking?
Well, Dave's not here Man, to answer my question so I'd better tack on an addendum...
This is beyond any TC knowledge I've had need for but I'm starting to play with DNA mods so I might as well see if I can learn something.
The normal TCR value comes, I presume, from materials science analysis... yeah, the smart Johnnies in the lab coats. But... it produces a linear slope. Or does it?
Presumably, the custom CSV files for DNAs can produce a curved slope... to more accurately represent a proportional resistance response to temp increase.
(as the res rises the product of that TCR calc should rise faster... positive feedback)
Again... more accurate? Vapers say so. But why?
And how those are made... I haven't the first idea.
Were I interested, I would have a drink and a read-about on the Evolv forum.
Then start a thread if I couldn't find the answer.
Now that we've replaced Jim's original answer with an even more egregious one... let's see if anyone notices.
This is beyond any TC knowledge I've had need for but I'm starting to play with DNA mods so I might as well see if I can learn something.
The normal TCR value comes, I presume, from materials science analysis... yeah, the smart Johnnies in the lab coats. But... it produces a linear slope. Or does it?
Presumably, the custom CSV files for DNAs can produce a curved slope... to more accurately represent a proportional resistance response to temp increase.
(as the res rises the product of that TCR calc should rise faster... positive feedback)
Again... more accurate? Vapers say so. But why?
And how those are made... I haven't the first idea.
Were I interested, I would have a drink and a read-about on the Evolv forum.
Then start a thread if I couldn't find the answer.
Now that we've replaced Jim's original answer with an even more egregious one... let's see if anyone notices.
Yes you are absolutely correct. The TCR is not constant throughout all temperatures. And if you plot it, it's actually a curve and not a linear straight line. But mods don't care what the TCR is at -200ºF or 2000ºF for that matter. Vapers and mods only care about 200ºF to 600ºF range. Here most TC wire is sort of linear. Not perfect, but close enough to draw a straight line by using a fixed TCR value when plotted and be somewhat close. And that is how I understand most mods work with TC. Evolv goes one step further. Sure you could use just a TCR value like the rest. Or you can plot the true TCR curve as well for a more accurate TC.
I swear I can hear the Church Lady... "Well isn't that convenient."
We really are just lucky at least one aspect of "res as thermometer" is working for us and not against. Thank you, that's a little more data to throw on the pile.
I just still have to decide whether I care, other than academically.
BillW50 - I replied to you below... others might find my exhaustive research interesting and my newest inventions.
BELOW I DESCRIBED THE MANY OF THE NEWEST TCR & 1 MOD using TFR. I now own them all (except 1 not yet for sale) and have built some interesting things.
I've done a ton of research..... MY VAPOR FRIENDS THOUGHT I WAS NUTS DOING ALL THE WORK I DID AS ND BUILDING DRIPPERS THEN RTAs just for precise TC UNTIL I let them pick their favorite juice, figured out at what temperature the most flavor was given, let them try the nice warm full flavor puff then kept hitting the dripper till the cotton was long dry yet it never burned. THEY THEN SAW THE LIGHT!!!
BillW50: TCR CAN BE PLOTTED ON A "X" "Y" axis though to be truly accurate you need to plot "T" as well. Your numbers though must come from the chart that came with a MOD. Kanthal is 0.00002 because I can only enter 0.0001 to be as close as possible I am still off by VERY NEARLY a factor of 10... that's a huge margin of error. It forced my MOD to kick out of TCR & into Watt mode unless I kept the temp & watts below a certain level - all described below. I WILL TRY to insert a X,Y plot. The formula I've given before.
Sigelei 213, it's half price replacement .
The Sigelei FUCHAI 213 & how they make it half price... ( I don't yet own this MOD) The others I do.
Wismec Reuleaux 200s newest firmware. M1V4
Joyetech Cuboid w/firmware update 3.10
THE STORE I HATE sent me 25% off any mod on the 4th. I'll be buying
Vaporesso Target Pro 75W TC...
I should use it on a more expensive MOD but they have the chimney airflow, new wic (ccell) undisclosed porous material and are a manufacturer whose TCR I have not evaluated.
The math is very simple but TCR was never meant for mods... as I explain later it was designed for very sensitive resistors in electronics. (I guess you could call a coil a resistor but really it is an electric heating element and due to the passing of current resisted by the material used heat is a by-product (I used a dictionary to see if it is biproduct, byproduct or by-product) anyway the heat given off is explained precisely by Ohm's Law.
I tried to post the below to the SMOK Website, some things I addressed above but reviews of the available mods are below and what I've accomplished and 1 plan for next invention.
as I did not get my cupon for my TFV8 and upon opening it is see that the build deck is pre-fitted with Clapton coils. They only recently released the TF-R2 for us builders who wanted to make dual coil TC atomizers for our TFV4 as well as several pre built DC TC atomizers in SS or Ni. TF-STC2 for example...
I HOPE AND PRAY THEY DO A BETTER JOB AT TCR than the Sigelei 213, Wismec Reuleaux 200s , Joyetech Cuboid. (HAVE YET TO TEST I know that Sigelei is going to be selling a version that does the TCR calculations in degrees C° as it should be though it less exact and those will be half the price of the Sigelei 213. It will be called the Sigelei FUCHAI 213. So slightly less precise temperature control but half the price. AT LEAST SIGELEI GAVE 5 PLACES AFTER THE DECIMAL POINT FOR THE TCR VALUE. It didn't work worth a darn unless you preheated for .15 seconds at 75w to reach 490°F.... The Wismec Reuleaux 200s IS GREAT!!! IT HAS 1 HORRIBLE PROBLEM WITH ITS TCR. There are only 4 places after the decimal. I only had Kanthal A1 on hand. I did the math and the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance for Kanal A1 is 0.00002.... how am I to enter that. IF I enter 0.0001 I am off by VERY NEARLY a factor of 10 (a huge margin of error). I DID IN FACT USE THAT VALUE AS A TEST. If memory serves it was 32 mm so 26 or 28 AWG, I do remember I was (aiming for .20 ohm) on a dual coil build with 3mm legs, 5 wraps, I think it was 2.0mm or 2.5mm interior. The build was perfect on two different guages, ONE MADE BY SMOK, the other was the Coil Master 521 tab test stack. Anyway, I was successful and could go as high as 520°F but not above 71W or it would kick out of TCR and into Watt control. I can't fault it for dropping out of TCR but it wouldn't have to if they had provided 5 places after the decimal for the value, 6 places with the last being a letter is THE TRUEST VALUE YOU CAN ACHIEVE MATHEMATICALLY. No mod offers the space for a alpha character. Sigelei did not provide a chart for converting the correct math into what they wanted you to enter but I did find a place on their website where you could enter the true TCR Coefficient and it would provide you the value to enter, it also had a place to enter the Sigelei "math" TCR value if you had done it correctly in degree Celsius and you could enter that coefficient and it would give you the value to enter into your Sigelei 213 TCR. seems it would be easier to just do the math correctly and expect people who use the device to know how or not use the function. Wismec Reuleaux 200s comes with a chart in the manual with a list of metals but instead of giving you the exact TCR VALUE to enter it gives a VERY BROAD RANGE!!!! That is ridiculous as TCR is very precise. If you don't understand it TCR is very difficult. In C° TCR = R2 - R1/R1(T2 - T1)*10^-6.... it wasn't designed for vaporizer mods. It was designed for very temperature sensitive resistors in electronics. I guess you could call a coil a resistor. Really it is a electric heating element that creates heat through the (usually undesirable effect) of electricity passing through a substance with high ohm (resistance) creates heat. Ohm's law describes the effect and more. Even the Joyetech Cuboid has only 4 places and they used to give specific values for Metals but now also have a chart. It's new 3.10 firmware allows for 200 watt and now supports SS316. SORRY SUCH A LONG RANT BUT IF YOU ARE GOING TO BRING OUT SUCH A GREAT FEATURE THEY SHOULD NOT DO IT HALF WAY. IF THEY TRULY ALLOWED TCR I COULD TURN ANY CONDUCTIVE MATERIAL WITH A COMBUSTION TEMPERATURE HIGHER THAN THAT OF COTTON INTO A COIL. WITH THE CURRENT FIRMWARE ON THE MARKET I AM VERY LIMITED AS TO WHAT I CAN BUILD FROM. IF THAT WERE NOT THE CASE I COULD MAKE POROUS CLAY CONTAINING A VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF GOLD INTO A COIL THAT NEVER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND EACH TIME YOU CHANGED JUICE 3 PUFFS AND IT WOULD BE GONE, IF ANY JUICE HAD CONTAMINATES THAT CARBONIZED I COULD JUST USE S FIRM TOOTHBRUSH MUCH LIKE THE COUNCIL OF VAPOR PHOENIX TANK (WHICH IS INCREDIBLE BY THE WAY... JUST WISH IT HELD MORE) OHH... SO UPON PURCHASING MY TFV8 WITHOUT A CUPON I OPENED THE BUILD AND IT CONTAINS 2 CLAPTON COILS... WHY DID THEY NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL OR Ni200 as it is supported by more devices in TC. NO DEVICE SUPPORTS CLAPTON but after doing math maybe with TCR I can make use of those coils in TC TCR with Watt control.
DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO ROOT A WISMEC? I guess I could use my compiler to examine the firmware upgrade and slip in my changes that way but not the same as ROOTing the device. I'm not at all worried about the changes I know I make. I'm more worried about the changes that effect unseen routines. Mercedes changed a turbo and to this day are giving people very expensive deep cycle glass matt batteries due to a electrical issue it took them months to find, either Porsche or BMW changed the radio and still can not find why it is interfering with the windshield wipers. I don't want 3 18650s exploding inches from my face attached to a Pyrex tank with 600°F oil in it.
BELOW I DESCRIBED THE MANY OF THE NEWEST TCR & 1 MOD using TFR. I now own them all (except 1 not yet for sale) and have built some interesting things.
I've done a ton of research..... MY VAPOR FRIENDS THOUGHT I WAS NUTS DOING ALL THE WORK I DID AS ND BUILDING DRIPPERS THEN RTAs just for precise TC UNTIL I let them pick their favorite juice, figured out at what temperature the most flavor was given, let them try the nice warm full flavor puff then kept hitting the dripper till the cotton was long dry yet it never burned. THEY THEN SAW THE LIGHT!!!
BillW50: TCR CAN BE PLOTTED ON A "X" "Y" axis though to be truly accurate you need to plot "T" as well. Your numbers though must come from the chart that came with a MOD. Kanthal is 0.00002 because I can only enter 0.0001 to be as close as possible I am still off by VERY NEARLY a factor of 10... that's a huge margin of error. It forced my MOD to kick out of TCR & into Watt mode unless I kept the temp & watts below a certain level - all described below. I WILL TRY to insert a X,Y plot. The formula I've given before.
Sigelei 213, it's half price replacement .
The Sigelei FUCHAI 213 & how they make it half price... ( I don't yet own this MOD) The others I do.
Wismec Reuleaux 200s newest firmware. M1V4
Joyetech Cuboid w/firmware update 3.10
THE STORE I HATE sent me 25% off any mod on the 4th. I'll be buying
Vaporesso Target Pro 75W TC...
I should use it on a more expensive MOD but they have the chimney airflow, new wic (ccell) undisclosed porous material and are a manufacturer whose TCR I have not evaluated.
The math is very simple but TCR was never meant for mods... as I explain later it was designed for very sensitive resistors in electronics. (I guess you could call a coil a resistor but really it is an electric heating element and due to the passing of current resisted by the material used heat is a by-product (I used a dictionary to see if it is biproduct, byproduct or by-product) anyway the heat given off is explained precisely by Ohm's Law.
I tried to post the below to the SMOK Website, some things I addressed above but reviews of the available mods are below and what I've accomplished and 1 plan for next invention.
as I did not get my cupon for my TFV8 and upon opening it is see that the build deck is pre-fitted with Clapton coils. They only recently released the TF-R2 for us builders who wanted to make dual coil TC atomizers for our TFV4 as well as several pre built DC TC atomizers in SS or Ni. TF-STC2 for example...
I HOPE AND PRAY THEY DO A BETTER JOB AT TCR than the Sigelei 213, Wismec Reuleaux 200s , Joyetech Cuboid. (HAVE YET TO TEST I know that Sigelei is going to be selling a version that does the TCR calculations in degrees C° as it should be though it less exact and those will be half the price of the Sigelei 213. It will be called the Sigelei FUCHAI 213. So slightly less precise temperature control but half the price. AT LEAST SIGELEI GAVE 5 PLACES AFTER THE DECIMAL POINT FOR THE TCR VALUE. It didn't work worth a darn unless you preheated for .15 seconds at 75w to reach 490°F.... The Wismec Reuleaux 200s IS GREAT!!! IT HAS 1 HORRIBLE PROBLEM WITH ITS TCR. There are only 4 places after the decimal. I only had Kanthal A1 on hand. I did the math and the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance for Kanal A1 is 0.00002.... how am I to enter that. IF I enter 0.0001 I am off by VERY NEARLY a factor of 10 (a huge margin of error). I DID IN FACT USE THAT VALUE AS A TEST. If memory serves it was 32 mm so 26 or 28 AWG, I do remember I was (aiming for .20 ohm) on a dual coil build with 3mm legs, 5 wraps, I think it was 2.0mm or 2.5mm interior. The build was perfect on two different guages, ONE MADE BY SMOK, the other was the Coil Master 521 tab test stack. Anyway, I was successful and could go as high as 520°F but not above 71W or it would kick out of TCR and into Watt control. I can't fault it for dropping out of TCR but it wouldn't have to if they had provided 5 places after the decimal for the value, 6 places with the last being a letter is THE TRUEST VALUE YOU CAN ACHIEVE MATHEMATICALLY. No mod offers the space for a alpha character. Sigelei did not provide a chart for converting the correct math into what they wanted you to enter but I did find a place on their website where you could enter the true TCR Coefficient and it would provide you the value to enter, it also had a place to enter the Sigelei "math" TCR value if you had done it correctly in degree Celsius and you could enter that coefficient and it would give you the value to enter into your Sigelei 213 TCR. seems it would be easier to just do the math correctly and expect people who use the device to know how or not use the function. Wismec Reuleaux 200s comes with a chart in the manual with a list of metals but instead of giving you the exact TCR VALUE to enter it gives a VERY BROAD RANGE!!!! That is ridiculous as TCR is very precise. If you don't understand it TCR is very difficult. In C° TCR = R2 - R1/R1(T2 - T1)*10^-6.... it wasn't designed for vaporizer mods. It was designed for very temperature sensitive resistors in electronics. I guess you could call a coil a resistor. Really it is a electric heating element that creates heat through the (usually undesirable effect) of electricity passing through a substance with high ohm (resistance) creates heat. Ohm's law describes the effect and more. Even the Joyetech Cuboid has only 4 places and they used to give specific values for Metals but now also have a chart. It's new 3.10 firmware allows for 200 watt and now supports SS316. SORRY SUCH A LONG RANT BUT IF YOU ARE GOING TO BRING OUT SUCH A GREAT FEATURE THEY SHOULD NOT DO IT HALF WAY. IF THEY TRULY ALLOWED TCR I COULD TURN ANY CONDUCTIVE MATERIAL WITH A COMBUSTION TEMPERATURE HIGHER THAN THAT OF COTTON INTO A COIL. WITH THE CURRENT FIRMWARE ON THE MARKET I AM VERY LIMITED AS TO WHAT I CAN BUILD FROM. IF THAT WERE NOT THE CASE I COULD MAKE POROUS CLAY CONTAINING A VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF GOLD INTO A COIL THAT NEVER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND EACH TIME YOU CHANGED JUICE 3 PUFFS AND IT WOULD BE GONE, IF ANY JUICE HAD CONTAMINATES THAT CARBONIZED I COULD JUST USE S FIRM TOOTHBRUSH MUCH LIKE THE COUNCIL OF VAPOR PHOENIX TANK (WHICH IS INCREDIBLE BY THE WAY... JUST WISH IT HELD MORE) OHH... SO UPON PURCHASING MY TFV8 WITHOUT A CUPON I OPENED THE BUILD AND IT CONTAINS 2 CLAPTON COILS... WHY DID THEY NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL OR Ni200 as it is supported by more devices in TC. NO DEVICE SUPPORTS CLAPTON but after doing math maybe with TCR I can make use of those coils in TC TCR with Watt control.
DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO ROOT A WISMEC? I guess I could use my compiler to examine the firmware upgrade and slip in my changes that way but not the same as ROOTing the device. I'm not at all worried about the changes I know I make. I'm more worried about the changes that effect unseen routines. Mercedes changed a turbo and to this day are giving people very expensive deep cycle glass matt batteries due to a electrical issue it took them months to find, either Porsche or BMW changed the radio and still can not find why it is interfering with the windshield wipers. I don't want 3 18650s exploding inches from my face attached to a Pyrex tank with 600°F oil in it.