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Uniform firmware for many devices - ArcticFox + NFirmwareEditor

Whocares

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Hello) Want to give you some information about custom firmware, some dude makes it. This firmware gives you TONS of features, like profiles, advanced TC, screen brightness control and a lot of.

Official site: http://nfeteam.org/ , Github https://github.com/TBXin/NFirmwareEditor/ https://github.com/maelstrom2001/ArcticFox

For using you should download NFE ToolBox (firmware updater and tweaker) and ArcticFox - there is firmware for flashing. There is exist nightly build (and release candidate) and stable versions, I use RC.

If you have a question - I'll try to answer)

Official Reade
NFirmwareEditor + NFE Toolbox
Supported OS: Windows 7 and higher.

Nightly build:

NFirmwareEditor
NFirmwareEditor is a firmware editor and updater for vaping devices from Joyetech, Wismec, Eleaf, Vaporflask, such as:

  • Joyetech: eVic VTC Mini, eVic VTwo, eVic VTwo Mini, eVic AIO, eVic Basic, Cuboid, Cuboid Mini, eGrip II;
  • Eleaf: iStick TC100W, iStick TC200W, iStick Pico, iStick Pico Mega, iStick Power, ASTER;
  • Wismec: Reuleaux RX200, RX200S, RX2/3, Presa TC75W;
  • Vaporflask: Lite, Classic, Stout;
  • Beyondvape Centurion
Сapabilities
  • Image Editor;
  • String Editor;
  • Patcher / Patch Manager;
  • Resource Pack(s) import / export;
  • Advanced Tools: Firmware ecryptor/decryptor, Patch creator, Firmware updater;
NFirmwareEditor – Main application window


NFirmwareEditor – Firmware Updater


NFE Toolbox
NFE Toolbox is a companion application, that was designed especially for the ArcticFox firmware.



Capabilities
  • ArcticFox firmware configuration Utility;
  • myEvic firmware configuration Utility has not yet been developed, but it is planned;
  • Device Monitor, compatible with both: ArcticFox and myEvic firmwares;
  • Screenshooter Utility, compatible with both: ArcticFix and myEvic firmwares;
  • Firmware Updater, universal for all Joyetech, Wismec, Eleaf, etc devices;
  • Automatic time synchronization when connecting devices, compatible with bot: ArcticFox and myEvic firmwares;
  • Automatic startup with Windows;
NFE Toolbox – ArcticFox Configuration Utility


NFE Toolbox – Device Monitor


NFE Toolbox – Screenshooter


Links
Donations:



I hope it helps somebody. :)


Why i created this: Toolbox is VERY cool stuff, but, in my opinion is very unpopular even in Russia. Also, it could be very hard for newbie. So, you can help this project)

I tried this stuff on 100W TC, because it have very unfriendly and long profile switcher, not I can manually set and edit coil resistance with accuracy 0.00x ohm (it helps for SS), can change voltage cut-off from ~3.3 to 3.0 vots, it shows clock, puff counter, live ohm-volt-amps and other things).
 
Last edited:

xpen

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I've just discovered and installed ArcticFox on my istick TC100W
I'm wondering what functions are directly available on the box itself, w/o the need to connect it to a PC...
So far long pressing the menu button (or 3 fire button clicks) netted access to the profile selector, but can't seem to find other built in functions...
Any pointers, or suggestions? Thanks
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Look in the settings and screen menus.... most option are selectable from the mod interface..... 2 clicks or hold fire and up to access menus

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xpen

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Well I've played some more with the toolbox, and found many settings to manage things on the box itself
Not the whole set of options, but probably all I might ever need while on the go (and then some...)
Thanks anyway
 

Whocares

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So far long pressing the menu button (or 3 fire button clicks) netted access to the profile selector, but can't seem to find other built in functions...
↑+fire (long) call Settings
↓+fire → stealth
long press Fn (on iStick 100) → profile selection

In menus:
↑+Fire→main screen
↓+Fire→previous menu level

In edit screen
↓ → next menu
↑ → edit current value/ lock/unlock resistance
resistance selection/long Fire → refresh resistance (in TC)

Also, you could correct and refresh resistance in TC on profile/resistance/short fire → correct
profile/resistance/Long fire → refresh resistance
 
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HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Do PI regulation setting do anything? I can't tell difference on my Pico75. ... Settings?

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Whocares

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    • From myevic readme
    • PID: A standard PID algorithm

      There is no "best" algorithm; it will essentialy depend on your setup and on your personnal taste. Test and experiment to see what fits best to you. The device monitor of the NFirmwareEditor is a great tool to observe the behavior of the algorithms with different setups and parameters.
      More algorithms may be implemented with time. Stay tuned.
  • Boost

    A parameter controling the Boost algorithm (see above).
    Set the limit, in percentage of the target temperature, at wich the Boost algorithm will stop speeding up the temperature ramp-up phase. The more the value, the faster the ramp-up time, but with a higher risk of overshooting the target temperature. High values are best with heavy resistances such as clapton builds, lower are prefered with light resistances such as single high gauge wire. Also, choosing the right power/wattage setup (not too high nor too low) will help prevent overshooting while keeping a fast ramp-up. You'll have to experiment to see what fits the best for your setup and personal taste.
    A long fire resets the parameter to its default value.

  • P, I, D

    The 3 parameters controlling the Proportional, Integral and Derivative part of the PID algorithm. You should familiarize yourself with the PID algorithm before playing with those parameters. Many papers exist over the internet on the subject.
    A long fire resets the parameter to its default value.
    Default values are (600,850,0). They are general-purpose values that should work in most cases, but may not be perfect and need to be tuned for any particular setup.
    Algorithm is implemented in its independant form.
    Sample time (50Hz) is scaled to one for parameters uniformity.
    Units: **P** is expressed in mW/°C, **I** in mW/°C/s, **D** in mW.s/°C.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
    • From myevic readme
    • PID: A standard PID algorithm

      There is no "best" algorithm; it will essentialy depend on your setup and on your personnal taste. Test and experiment to see what fits best to you. The device monitor of the NFirmwareEditor is a great tool to observe the behavior of the algorithms with different setups and parameters.
      More algorithms may be implemented with time. Stay tuned.
  • Boost

    A parameter controling the Boost algorithm (see above).
    Set the limit, in percentage of the target temperature, at wich the Boost algorithm will stop speeding up the temperature ramp-up phase. The more the value, the faster the ramp-up time, but with a higher risk of overshooting the target temperature. High values are best with heavy resistances such as clapton builds, lower are prefered with light resistances such as single high gauge wire. Also, choosing the right power/wattage setup (not too high nor too low) will help prevent overshooting while keeping a fast ramp-up. You'll have to experiment to see what fits the best for your setup and personal taste.
    A long fire resets the parameter to its default value.

  • P, I, D

    The 3 parameters controlling the Proportional, Integral and Derivative part of the PID algorithm. You should familiarize yourself with the PID algorithm before playing with those parameters. Many papers exist over the internet on the subject.
    A long fire resets the parameter to its default value.
    Default values are (600,850,0). They are general-purpose values that should work in most cases, but may not be perfect and need to be tuned for any particular setup.
    Algorithm is implemented in its independant form.
    Sample time (50Hz) is scaled to one for parameters uniformity.
    Units: **P** is expressed in mW/°C, **I** in mW/°C/s, **D** in mW.s/°C.

That might as well be writen in Martian.

What values and what do they do?.. I see 3 values a percentage P and I. Default for P is 1850 and I 300. What does changes to these do? Is it for TC only or all regulation?

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Whocares

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Simple, PID affect on how fast your device react on Temperature changing, I think. How much power your divice should increase. So, it works only on TC and any tc profile has his own PI setting. It works OK, I do not need to change it
 

xpen

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Member For 3 Years
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Am I the only one experiencing swapped + and - buttons in the AF menus on a TC100W?
Other than that little glitch this firmware works great, the customisable VW curve alone injected new life into this oldish mod
Next I'll try some TC... I never got along with any TC, on any mods/chips, but the extreme degree of possible customization is really tempting now..
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Am I the only one experiencing swapped + and - buttons in the AF menus on a TC100W?
Other than that little glitch this firmware works great, the customisable VW curve alone injected new life into this oldish mod
Next I'll try some TC... I never got along with any TC, on any mods/chips, but the extreme degree of possible customization is really tempting now..
Un check the check box....

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xpen

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Un check the check box....

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
Nope, if I check that checkbox the menus work properly but the +/- buttons get swapped as well.
Second thought: it's possibly depending on the display orientation... mine is set to read properly with the 510 connector to my left. Will try flipping it if I can be bothered doing so
Not much of a problem anyway, and the rest of the features is just great
 
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HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Nope, if I check that checkbox the menus work properly but the +/- buttons get swapped as well.
Second thought: it's possibly depending on the display orientation... mine is set to read properly with the 510 connector to my left. Will try flipping it if I can be bothered doing so
Not much of a problem anyway, and the rest of the features is just great

If problem persists you could try asking on the AF issues page. Maybe it's a bug they can fix in the code.

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Whocares

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Member For 1 Year
Nope, if I check that checkbox the menus work properly but the +/- buttons get swapped as well.
After changing your options dont forget upload new settings). I have TC100W too, it works well.

Also, long Fn button on devices which have it calls profile switcher
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Nope, if I check that checkbox the menus work properly but the +/- buttons get swapped as well.
Second thought: it's possibly depending on the display orientation... mine is set to read properly with the 510 connector to my left. Will try flipping it if I can be bothered doing so
Not much of a problem anyway, and the rest of the features is just great
So last night when I swapped batteries... my Pico75 "reset" to a default version. Some features missing this +- button issue. Everything seamed to work fine. Just different....

Anyway... re flashed mod this morning.... all back to normal.


I didn't shut off my mod before swapping batts.... cause??? IDK going to power down for swaps in future though.

This hasn't happen before at battery swap.... but my mod has glitched 2x on plugging or unplugging USB.... once using OEM fw it defaulted... the other it lost ability to communicate with PC.

If i can find the instructions for the re flash method I used for the comms error I'll post up.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Angrygod50

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I've been reading this thread with interest for awhile now. I put it on a Eleaf TC200W and it turned an ok TC mod into a good one.I'll be putting this on my other Joyetech mods. Chart is TCR SS316L. Good job to the developers.
I stick TC200W.jpg
 

xpen

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
So last night when I swapped batteries... my Pico75 "reset" to a default version. Some features missing this +- button issue. Everything seamed to work fine. Just different....

Anyway... re flashed mod this morning.... all back to normal.


I didn't shut off my mod before swapping batts.... cause??? IDK going to power down for swaps in future though.

This hasn't happen before at battery swap.... but my mod has glitched 2x on plugging or unplugging USB.... once using OEM fw it defaulted... the other it lost ability to communicate with PC.

If i can find the instructions for the re flash method I used for the comms error I'll post up.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
Firmware shouldn't be affected by abrupt power cycles/blackouts... actually there's no way to properly shut down these mods, their boards can be in 'sleep mode' but in the background they're still active, waiting for the user to wake them up by pressing a certain button sequence.
Either it's a bug in the firmware itself, or something is wrong with the board of your Pico IMO .
Other option, the previous flashing operation left some corrupted memory area somewhere in the firmware.
There's no way to tell, I'm afraid, other than reflashing it and seeing how it goes over time..
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Firmware shouldn't be affected by abrupt power cycles/blackouts... actually there's no way to properly shut down these mods, their boards can be in 'sleep mode' but in the background they're still active, waiting for the user to wake them up by pressing a certain button sequence.
Either it's a bug in the firmware itself, or something is wrong with the board of your Pico IMO .
Other option, the previous flashing operation left some corrupted memory area somewhere in the firmware.
There's no way to tell, I'm afraid, other than reflashing it and seeing how it goes over time..
I think it a hardware problem because I have had it happen with both Eleaf and AF fw.




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Whocares

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If i can find the instructions for the re flash method I used for the comms error I'll post up.
Try safe mode
Safe mode

How to get into this mode?
Very simple, you have to follow some conditions

  1. Unplug the USB cable if it was connected before;
  2. Remove all batteries from device;
  3. Press and hold "Plus" button;
  4. Connect device to PC;
  5. Now you can release "Plus" button;
  6. If you did everything correctly, then your device is in safe mode;
How to understand that the device is in safe mode?
Well, there are some obvious signs:

  1. The screen is off;
  2. The device does not respond to button presses;
  3. The device will be detected by the PC;
  4. Firmware version displays as "0.00";
  5. If you are using NToolbox - Firmware Updater, you will see that the "Boot Mode: is set to LDROM.
What is it for?
  1. Recovery after an unsuccessful firmware installation;
  2. To test the viability of the device;
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Try safe mode
Safe mode

How to get into this mode?
Very simple, you have to follow some conditions

  1. Unplug the USB cable if it was connected before;
  2. Remove all batteries from device;
  3. Press and hold "Plus" button;
  4. Connect device to PC;
  5. Now you can release "Plus" button;
  6. If you did everything correctly, then your device is in safe mode;
How to understand that the device is in safe mode?
Well, there are some obvious signs:

  1. The screen is off;
  2. The device does not respond to button presses;
  3. The device will be detected by the PC;
  4. Firmware version displays as "0.00";
  5. If you are using NToolbox - Firmware Updater, you will see that the "Boot Mode: is set to LDROM.
What is it for?
  1. Recovery after an unsuccessful firmware installation;
  2. To test the viability of the device;
That's it.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Whocares

Member For 3 Years
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Member For 1 Year
New update FOR AF

Main features: powerbank mode, new interface for small screen, clock-mode and LOT of improvements)
 

AndriaD

Yes, I DO wear a mask! I'm vaccinated, too!
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I noticed that the SX Mini M class or any other SX Mini was not listed... any plans to include those mods? I know my SX Mini M is a temp control mod (though I never use TC), and I did update the firmware from the Yihi site (though there were ZERO instructions, I finally figured it out!). Just wondered if you might include the Sx Minis.

Andria
 

Angrygod50

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I like the improvements but any idea on finding XML battery curves? I tried converting CVS files to XML but I get an error trying to upload them.

EDIT; Save your profiles before you do the update so you can load them back in.
 
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xpen

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I noticed that the SX Mini M class or any other SX Mini was not listed... any plans to include those mods? I know my SX Mini M is a temp control mod (though I never use TC), and I did update the firmware from the Yihi site (though there were ZERO instructions, I finally figured it out!). Just wondered if you might include the Sx Minis.

Andria
Unfortunately this firmware only supports (most) Joyetech, Wismec and Eleaf mods - as they're all based on the same processor/board
The chips Yihi uses are totally different, so they don't work with this firmware.
Here is a full list of what is currently supported: https://github.com/maelstrom2001/ArcticFox/blob/master/README.md
By the way, we're not the developers of this firmware, just users... Their official site is here: https://nfeteam.org/
 

xpen

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I like the improvements but any idea on finding XML battery curves? I tried converting CVS files to XML but I get an error trying to upload them.

EDIT; Save your profiles before you do the update so you can load them back in.
You mean the battery profiles, or the whole mod configuration?
 

xpen

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Member For 2 Years
Anyone here developed a custom battery profile for the Sony VTC5A they're wanting to share? Thanks
 

Angrygod50

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You mean the battery profiles, or the whole mod configuration?
I'm looking for battery profiles LG HE4, 25R and VTC5a XML format.

But the new firmware over writes the mod's profiles so you need to save them before updating
 
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HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
seems now the rx300 cannot be detect by the pc
Which version? ?... have you check on the fix on the AF Web site.... there were issues on the wismecs. Thought they were addressed... if your issue is new bug Developers want to know...

I know if you read through the posts there you will find procedures for getting PC and OE loader to re recognize the mod.

Oh and make sure the USB cable is a Good DATA ready one.

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