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vaporshark RDA coil setup?

vladtepes

Member For 4 Years
OK.. so I have a vaporshark.. and I have a Lemo and love it.. a while back I got a cheap RDA.. dual coil.. and tried to set it up and had nothing but issues.. whenever I run anything dual coil on my vaporshark I end up with like 1.5ohms ish... but I end up with a ton of wire and it takes for ever to heat up.. should I be going MUCH lower with a dual coil RDA? I am used to things like the Lemo or Kayfun.. what am I not understanding? should a RDA be like sub 1ohm 30 watts? I think I just need a push in the right direction here..

thanks as always..
 
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State O' Flux

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To obtain an adequate "heat flux" value (radiant coil(s) temperature)... a general rule is that for a given wattage, thicker wire requires a lower resistance and thinner wire a higher resistance... to stay within a particular heat flux range and APV current output values.

You can use the Steam Engine coil modelling software (see sigline hyperlink below - adjustable heat flux value is in the sixth line down in the results box) to 'build' your RDA for a 'desired' wattage output value... using the heat flux (radiant temperature) as one of the constants.

I'll provide you with 2 examples.
  • At 30 watts of output, a 28 gauge, dual parallel build consisting of a 8/7 wrap (2 X 67mm of wire - terminal to terminal) on a 2mm mandrel with a generous 4mm of leg length, will provide a 0.6Ω net resistance and a heat flux value of 222 mW/mm² (milliwatts per square mm)... which is in the yellow color code zone - slightly warmer than the median 'green' zone.
  • To 'prove' the statement made in my first paragraph... all else being the same, but using 30 gauge Kanthal (2 X 84.3mm of wire - terminal to terminal) to produce a 11/10 wrap coil with a net resistance of 1.2Ω - will provide the same heat flux as the thicker, lower resistance coil(s) of the first example... 222 mW/mm².
The 'appropriate' heat flux for an application can vary greatly... the greatest of variables being the personal tastes of the individual user. Some of the less subjective elements that affect what one might consider an optimal coil temperature are the juice blend, RBA air flow potential... including air inlet/outlet adjustments and duration/frequency of the draw.

As you didn't provide sufficient build specifics for me to develop what you might consider a satisfactory heat flux, the example I provided may be too cool or too warm for your personal tastes... so you'll end up playing with it.
 

vladtepes

Member For 4 Years
thank you.. this really started to help me think about it in more detail.. its not as simple as I thought... but you made me understand that while ohms.. and wattage is part of the equation.. the HEAT it is creating is more the true variable..
 

vladtepes

Member For 4 Years
To obtain an adequate "heat flux" value (radiant coil(s) temperature)... a general rule is that for a given wattage, thicker wire requires a lower resistance and thinner wire a higher resistance... to stay within a particular heat flux range and APV current output values.

You can use the Steam Engine coil modelling software (see sigline hyperlink below - adjustable heat flux value is in the sixth line down in the results box) to 'build' your RDA for a 'desired' wattage output value... using the heat flux (radiant temperature) as one of the constants.

I'll provide you with 2 examples.
  • At 30 watts of output, a 28 gauge, dual parallel build consisting of a 8/7 wrap (2 X 67mm of wire - terminal to terminal) on a 2mm mandrel with a generous 4mm of leg length, will provide a 0.6Ω net resistance and a heat flux value of 222 mW/mm² (milliwatts per square mm)... which is in the yellow color code zone - slightly warmer than the median 'green' zone.
  • To 'prove' the statement made in my first paragraph... all else being the same, but using 30 gauge Kanthal (2 X 84.3mm of wire - terminal to terminal) to produce a 11/10 wrap coil with a net resistance of 1.2Ω - will provide the same heat flux as the thicker, lower resistance coil(s) of the first example... 222 mW/mm².
The 'appropriate' heat flux for an application can vary greatly... the greatest of variables being the personal tastes of the individual user. Some of the less subjective elements that affect what one might consider an optimal coil temperature are the juice blend, RBA air flow potential... including air inlet/outlet adjustments and duration/frequency of the draw.

As you didn't provide sufficient build specifics for me to develop what you might consider a satisfactory heat flux, the example I provided may be too cool or too warm for your personal tastes... so you'll end up playing with it.


since you really appear to understand this well...
can you explain how twisted wire plays in? I just twisted 4 32g wires on a drill for a 1.5ohm coil...

when I look at the steam engine.... I am not sure what parameters to enter to determine heat flux
 

State O' Flux

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since you really appear to understand this well...
can you explain how twisted wire plays in? I just twisted 4 32g wires on a drill for a 1.5ohm coil...

when I look at the steam engine.... I am not sure what parameters to enter to determine heat flux

In "material and profile", to the right of the 'wire type' box, is the "profile" box... the default is "Round"... but if you click on the drop arrow, you'll see "Round, twisted/parallel". Click that.

Two new boxes will open... the first is "Twist pitch (lead/2)" and "Number of strands", with a maximum of four.
Follow the directions provided for determining the twist pitch value... the rest is the same.

"The distance between each "ridge" on the twisted wire. Use 0 for non-twisted wire (parallel strands). For improved accuracy: Count 10 ridges, measure their total width, and divide by 10."
 

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