So i'm somewhat experienced with vaping but no expert. I just recently bought a new Plume Veil RDA and wrapped it. I also just switched to 24 gauge from 26 so the coils I wrapped were a bit larger than usual. I'm not sure the brands or names of anything else on my device but it is an unregulated mech mod. After vaping for about 15 min out of the box I hit it and after a heard a very loud crackling sound. This wasn't your average juice crackling off the coil it was much much louder. I was wondering if maybe it was because the coil touched the outer walls of the RDA. I'm not sure what to do or if i should stop vaping and rewrap coils or what. Could someone advise me? Ask about any other info if you need it.
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Very loud crackling sound. Worried about my mech mod.
- Thread starter VietGnome
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Without specific details of the build, Gnome... there's no way to determine if you've got an extremely high heat flux value, accompanied with a very low heat capacity and adequate wicking... or if you just experienced a miraculous improvement in your hearing.
Ok. I'll take a look at some videos and tutorials. Completely unrelated question, my friend got me really sketched about my mod exploding because I don't have any holes or ventilation to my battery and said that pressure could build up until explosion. Should this be a real concern of mine if i'm using and charging my batteries correctly and i'm not vaping below about .7?
One of the more important things about ohm checkers is in that they will uncover insidious things like worn insulators..that can create a dead short, and catastrophic failure. Vent gasses are rarely explosive, but DO need an escape route.
I didn't notice you mention if you have an ohm reader, if you know you're at .7 I'm guessing you do. If not, get one.
And if you don't mind the cosmetic aspect, strategically drilled holes couldn't hurt. I wish you knew what mod you had, almost all have venting in the switch. Try leaving the switch on and blowing through the top cap end of the tube, you'll know it has venting if air flows out. Try with a battery in, also. If you post pics, I'm sure someone here can identify your mod, and it's venting mechanism. Others can chime in on that. I do know if you think your battery is gonna vent, get it out of your mod ASAP, and get it somewhere as safe as possible.
Except efest are total shit.
Stop, forgot the mah look at the amp rating.
who gives a flying fuck about mah.
mah is the run time not the power of the cells, period and for sub ohm it means exactly fuck all.
when sub ohm you want the constant amp draw (for the safety) not the mah.
Efest is shit, in my book they are about equal or less than any battery with fire in the name.
Efests are fine batteries. I USE them. Everyone talks about them being rewrapped LG's. People are using LG's too.
The "35" amp rating is PULSE. They are 20 amp continuous draw batts.
I give a fuck about mah. If I could get 18650's with 4000 mah, I would be a happy camper. I can tell a difference in 2000 mah and 2500. So yeah, mah is important if you vape much.
The "35" amp rating is PULSE. They are 20 amp continuous draw batts.
I give a fuck about mah. If I could get 18650's with 4000 mah, I would be a happy camper. I can tell a difference in 2000 mah and 2500. So yeah, mah is important if you vape much.
when you sub ohm mah means exactly fuck all.
Pulse is an emergency state never build off that rating.
Efest is shit in a mech, it could be rewrapped unicorn dork for all I care it does not change the fact they have been outted for mislabeling their actual ratings for the batteries.
I sub ohm all day, everyday. It DOES mean something. It means how long my batts will LAST before I need to change/charge them. So yes, it DOES mean something. Especially to someone that is not beside their charger all day, or vapes WAY faster then a usb can keep up with.
I know what pulse ratings are. I'm not new to vaping. Some of us use a bit of that pulse rating, SAFELY.
You don't like Efests. great, we get it. I have been using them for MONTHS with no issue. Efest is not the ONLY ones to use the pulse rating for the specified rating on the battery. BFD.... Know what you are buying.
So don't run around shitting on ONE battery because you in particular, don't like it. MANY of us use them daily and they are fine batteries. We know what we are buying and how to use it. If you want to rip on something, rip on the Sony's. How many of those fucking things are rewrapped piles of dog shit? And sold at a MUCH higher price then a Efest.
I am digging the MXJO (Not having unwrapped one yet, I should not be surprised to find LG or Samsung lurking below the pretty yellow wrapper). I am using them in my single battery full mech boxes.
vape.queen
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Yeah I'm not a fan of efest batts either. If u can get your hands on some AW batts you will be in excellent shape.
JOLT74
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Gunna completely agree with this, amp rating is the most important thing about mod batteries and making sure the battery can handle your build
Though not as passionate as @BigNasty in my delivery, I agree with his message regarding Efest completely. Fuck them, I don't trust a company that does nothing but re wrap cells and then falsify the amp rating by advertising what truly is it's pulse. That is pushing on unethical IMO. I also purchased a Luc V4 which was faulty, completely different, but cemented my feelings on the brand.
Plus, assuming the Purple "35A" are actually re wrapped LG's, why not just get LG's, or Samsungs even? Authentic LG's are cheaper than Purple Efests, and they don't mislabel their capabilities in such a way that could really harm someone.
And I do care about MAH, it shouldn't determine your battery choice regarding safety or capability, but once you find your desired Amperage, I want the most MAH ideally. I know I've heard that as MAH increases, amperage tends to decrease. That was part of why VTC5's were so awesome.
GenuineCells on ebay is a very trustworthy source of batteries, I've purchased a bunch from him. Those Efest are most likely LG HE2's with new clothes, price out the two, and if you like em, I'd get LG's next time. Can never have too many batteries
Plus, assuming the Purple "35A" are actually re wrapped LG's, why not just get LG's, or Samsungs even? Authentic LG's are cheaper than Purple Efests, and they don't mislabel their capabilities in such a way that could really harm someone.
And I do care about MAH, it shouldn't determine your battery choice regarding safety or capability, but once you find your desired Amperage, I want the most MAH ideally. I know I've heard that as MAH increases, amperage tends to decrease. That was part of why VTC5's were so awesome.
GenuineCells on ebay is a very trustworthy source of batteries, I've purchased a bunch from him. Those Efest are most likely LG HE2's with new clothes, price out the two, and if you like em, I'd get LG's next time. Can never have too many batteries
I only use authentic Sony's and AW batteries, when I build low sub ohm coils I run the Sony VTC5's, 30A rating and 2600mAh. For builds higher than
.5 ohms I'll run my AW batteries. I have AW 1600mAh and 2200mAh batteries. The 1600's last longer than the 2200's with coil builds around 1 to 1.5 ohms. 1600's have a 24A rating and the new 2200's have a 20A rating. I only buy batteries from RTDvapor.com.
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.5 ohms I'll run my AW batteries. I have AW 1600mAh and 2200mAh batteries. The 1600's last longer than the 2200's with coil builds around 1 to 1.5 ohms. 1600's have a 24A rating and the new 2200's have a 20A rating. I only buy batteries from RTDvapor.com.
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Very well could be.
I had a sizzling when my spring welded in my kts clone.
Also when my nemmy nuked.