weird performance issue with my king II clone

[2c5000]

hello, i am having strange (new to me at least) stuff happening with my king II clone. basically i bought some magnets for the switch and have been experimenting with mag quantity and mag/spring combinations. anyway, depending on the setup at the time, sometimes when i engage the switch i can feel the switch button get hot pretty quickly. and if i put my ear up to the switch i can hear an electrical/static sound... is this normal?

i cant figure out if its because of the way i have the switch set up or not. its sort of hit or miss with the hot switch. i can always hear the sound.

ok so after saying all of that i would like to share the specs of my rig. king II clone, igo-w, red efest 18350 pushing a .8-.9ohm coil. any ideas? should i be hearing this sound? should the button be getting hot like this? this is a new mod so im not sure if its the mod or how im using it.

any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[State O' Flux]

Assuming you've tried other batteries with the same result, eliminating the battery itself as the issue, you have a point of high resistance... probably the button/button collet contact itself, causing the overheating condition.
Clean all the parts thoroughly and put the button back to original configuration - would be a place to start.
If you don't own one, obtain a DMM so that you can test for continuity and resistance... as well as battery voltage.

An inline 510 voltmeter can also be handy to observe voltage drop with a load. Although you can't directly compare your results with others, you can establish a baseline for your mods.

 

[2c5000]

thank you! when you say try dif batteries do you mean a dif brand/size? or just a dif cell of the same kind? i have a few of the red efest 18350s and have been experiencing the same issues with them all.

i do not have a multimeter but know a few people who could lend o e to me.

i should be ok pushing a .8ohm coil with the red efest 18350 yeah...?

also i am a big fan of the 18350 form factor... what are the top of the line 18350s available?

 

[State O' Flux]

thank you! when you say try dif batteries do you mean a dif brand/size? or just a dif cell of the same kind?
Well, either or really... just a few different batteries, to confirm that it's not a faulty battery with a higher than spec internal resistance. I run into it in maybe 1:30 batteries.
i have a few of the red efest 18350s and have been experiencing the same issues with them all.
That would be an indication it's the mod... not the battery.
i do not have a multimeter but know a few people who could lend o e to me.
They can show you, or test for you... you're looking for resistance above 0.0Ω... and all it takes is a few tenths of an ohm, because under load is when it's most obvious.
i should be ok pushing a .8ohm coil with the red efest 18350 yeah...?
Sure. That's about a 5a draw at 4.2v, so no big deal.
also i am a big fan of the 18350 form factor... what are the top of the line 18350s available?

AW and Efest probably make the best 18350s

 

[pdxvapes]

Yo 2clicker! Good to see you here, hope you're doing well='3

 

[2c5000]

Yo 2clicker! Good to see you here, hope you're doing well='3

well hello there. thanks for the warm welcome! only one question... do i know you?

 

[pdxvapes]

well hello there. thanks for the warm welcome! only one question... do i know you?

You do not! But I know you, I've lurked every single post you've made on two other vaping-innovation related forums.

 

[2c5000]

You do not! But I know you, I've lurked every single post you've made on two other vaping-innovation related forums.

lol. well i know what one of them is! i hope i have been helpful.

to stay on topic i would like to add that after removing some of the stuff in the switch, that the king II is not having the issues anymore. it sounds weird, but after getting a mag kit for my king, i ended using magnets AND the spring. i know it seems as if it defeats the purpose of the mags, but it felt really nice so i went with it. that was 4 mags and the stock spring. i now have two mags and the spring in there and it is also very nice and not getting hot.

so in short i believe that i was clogging up to much of the vent space in the switch...? causing it to heat up...? i dont know

 

[KamenRider]

Anytime your switch gets hot immediately after firing, STOP! Either there's a hard short occurring and/or the battery is on the verge of thermal runaway due to amperage load beyond the battery's capability.

Yeah, those eFest red label 350's are not meant for low resistance setups. At 0.8 ohm you're asking that battery to pull about 5A at around full charge (4.1V). It's hard to find the actual specs for that battery but I do know that 18350's in general simply aren't capable of the higher amperage loads of their larger cousins. Size does matter.

As a point of reference, the older eFest red label 18650's top out at around 6A or 7A (black label eFest go to 10A). With that in mind I would assume that their red 18350 is probably about half that for its maximum amperage rating.

Grab the purple eFest 350's if you absolutely need to stay small. The purple ones are rated to 10.5A

Vape safe!

 

[2c5000]

Anytime your switch gets hot immediately after firing, STOP! Either there's a hard short occurring and/or the battery is on the verge of thermal runaway due to amperage load beyond the battery's capability.

Yeah, those eFest red label 350's are not meant for low resistance setups. At 0.8 ohm you're asking that battery to pull about 5A at around full charge (4.1V). It's hard to find the actual specs for that battery but I do know that 18350's in general simply aren't capable of the higher amperage loads of their larger cousins. Size does matter.

As a point of reference, the older eFest red label 18650's top out at around 6A or 7A (black label eFest go to 10A). With that in mind I would assume that their red 18350 is probably about half that for its maximum amperage rating.

Grab the purple eFest 350's if you absolutely need to stay small. The purple ones are rated to 10.5A

Vape safe!

thank you for the advice. normally my coils are 1.2-1.5ohm. however i am looking into a super short mech. the 4nine in 18650 mode isnt much longer than my king in 18350. anyway, i want to go to 18650s but its gotta be short.

any recommendations?

 

[pdxvapes]

thank you for the advice. normally my coils are 1.2-1.5ohm. however i am looking into a super short mech. the 4nine in 18650 mode isnt much longer than my king in 18350. anyway, i want to go to 18650s but its gotta be short.

any recommendations?

Stingray X just came out, and I believe it's only about 3mm taller than the 4nine, however it comes with a hybrid cap, which may very well make it come in even shorter than the 4nine. I'll have to measure it when I get it!

 

[iLLwiLL]

Did you check the contacts on your king 2? Mine came copper plated and when it started rubbing off I had similar problems with hotspots

 

[KamenRider]

May have found a solution (at ECF, of all places, lol).

Some of these King 2 clones in satin finish have the switch interior covered in the same matte satin finish as the outside. This particular coating seems to be a very poor electrical conductor and is part of the reason why switches on these mods are getting hot. Looking at FT I can see that there's now a matte satin finish version that has bare threads and contact area for the switch, as opposed to the earlier version which had these areas coated.

Since a mech is really just one big electrical circuit any area creating resistance will create heat as the flow of electrons is impeded. In the case of the King 2 with the satin finish, it's the finish itself that seems to be the main culprit as it's been slapped all over the switch assembly. If you can dismantle the switch and sand off the coating on the interior portions this should help.

As for a small 18650 mod, the 4nine is arguably the smallest one out there but it has its own quirks which the operator needs to be aware of. Since the 4nine is a semi-hybrid in design, there's no 510 pin. Rather, there's a hole in the top cap where your atomizer's positive pin would make direct contact with the positive contact of your battery. The issue here is that of a possible hard short if your atomizer pin is recessed and nearly level with the exterior contact threading. If the pin does not protrude from the threading (which acts as the negative) both positive and negative surfaces could potentially come into contact at the same time when they meet the battery. Not good.

Not saying the 4nine is bad, just saying that due to its design a little more vigilance is required for safe usage. I plan on picking up one of the clones in the future myself.

 

[2c5000]

Stingray X just came out, and I believe it's only about 3mm taller than the 4nine, however it comes with a hybrid cap, which may very well make it come in even shorter than the 4nine. I'll have to measure it when I get it!

ill have to check that out. im not a fan of logos on mods though. thanks!

Did you check the contacts on your king 2? Mine came copper plated and when it started rubbing off I had similar problems with hotspots

its still too new so its not that, but i will keep an eye on it.

May have found a solution (at ECF, of all places, lol).

Some of these King 2 clones in satin finish have the switch interior covered in the same matte satin finish as the outside. This particular coating seems to be a very poor electrical conductor and is part of the reason why switches on these mods are getting hot. Looking at FT I can see that there's now a matte satin finish version that has bare threads and contact area for the switch, as opposed to the earlier version which had these areas coated.

Since a mech is really just one big electrical circuit any area creating resistance will create heat as the flow of electrons is impeded. In the case of the King 2 with the satin finish, it's the finish itself that seems to be the main culprit as it's been slapped all over the switch assembly. If you can dismantle the switch and sand off the coating on the interior portions this should help.

As for a small 18650 mod, the 4nine is arguably the smallest one out there but it has its own quirks which the operator needs to be aware of. Since the 4nine is a semi-hybrid in design, there's no 510 pin. Rather, there's a hole in the top cap where your atomizer's positive pin would make direct contact with the positive contact of your battery. The issue here is that of a possible hard short if your atomizer pin is recessed and nearly level with the exterior contact threading. If the pin does not protrude from the threading (which acts as the negative) both positive and negative surfaces could potentially come into contact at the same time when they meet the battery. Not good.

Not saying the 4nine is bad, just saying that due to its design a little more vigilance is required for safe usage. I plan on picking up one of the clones in the future myself.

mine is indeed from FT, but the threads are not matte. they are just reg threads. ill have to check the switch assembly when i get home.

and i think i have decided against the 4nine. thinking about an MMVapors Nano now...

thanks everyone!

 

[derichio02]

I had the same problem. I had to sand my bottom pin. It had a high point and wasn't making a good connection. Hits like a beast again now

 

[2c5000]

I had the same problem. I had to sand my bottom pin. It had a high point and wasn't making a good connection. Hits like a beast again now

do you mean the copper hex head screw in the switch?

 

[derichio02]

Yes

 

[derichio02]

It had visible hot spots on it and wasn't making flush contact. I lightly LIGHTLY sanded it and the hot button went away

 

[2c5000]

It had visible hot spots on it and wasn't making flush contact. I lightly LIGHTLY sanded it and the hot button went away

i dont see any hot spots on there, but i do see where the corners of the hex head stick up farther than the center of it.

after removing 2 of the 4 mags i had in there the problem has gone away. i will likely give it a light sanding still though.