Which gauge wire and other newbie questions

[Model_A_Ford]

I've never made a coil. I already have the Crown RBA.

Was thinking about trying 316l but not sure what gauge, 24-26 ?

Do I need an ohms meter? I guess I don't understand the point of it.

I have read all about how the Crown RBA sucks. Is it even worth it to use this deck or should I not even bother?

Would I need ceramic tweezers? These are to compress the coil while it's hot?

 

[Huckleberried]

bump for ya, I've never built with SS

 

[UncleRJ]

What mod are you using?

I prefer using 24 AWG Kanthal.

 

[JERUS]

Ceramic Tweezers aren't necessary but can be nice to tweak the coil while it's not which can fix hotspots and what not.

If I had to have only one gauge I'd say 26g but I personally probably use the 24g the most.

Ohm Meter is something you need, however if you're on a restricted mod many have them built in, you can use that to start but it's an investment you'll want to make eventually and especially if you ever even think about using a mech mod.

 

[Model_A_Ford]

What mod are you using?
I prefer using 24 AWG Kanthal.

X Cube 2 in Watt mode

 

[JERUS]

You can use it for general building, just again eventually you may want to get an ohmmeter if you find yourself getting really into building. And do realize the XCube's reader will lock in, you have to pull the topper off and pulse the mod to get it to reset and realize that a new build is coming. It's a little funky like that, or at least mine is, maybe I screwed it up at some point fiddling.

Steam-engine.org

Use that to give you an idea on how to do things.

One thing, with SS it heats up much faster than Kanthal. Take that into consideration. Kanthal may be better at least to start with. If you want to go SS consider twisting, it basically ends up as a drop in 2 guages but heats up slower, so a twisted 26g is like a cooler 24g. I found this necessary when I went with SS, but then of course with an RBA you have to be aware of your limitations as to what thickness of wire it'll even fit.

There are "starter" packs out there that aren't a bad idea, but mostly Kanthal from what I've seen. But, they may not be a bad idea either.

 

[Model_A_Ford]

You can use it for general building, just again eventually you may want to get an ohmmeter if you find yourself getting really into building. And do realize the XCube's reader will lock in, you have to pull the topper off and pulse the mod to get it to reset and realize that a new build is coming. It's a little funky like that, or at least mine is, maybe I screwed it up at some point fiddling.

yeah, have to fire with no atomizer, then it will ask if new atomizer, then it will read the new resistance and it auto-locks.

I could see that getting a little tedious.

Steam-engine.org
Use that to give you an idea on how to do things.
One thing, with SS it heats up much faster than Kanthal. Take that into consideration. Kanthal may be better at least to start with. If you want to go SS consider twisting, it basically ends up as a drop in 2 guages but heats up slower, so a twisted 26g is like a cooler 24g. I found this necessary when I went with SS, but then of course with an RBA you have to be aware of your limitations as to what thickness of wire it'll even fit.
There are "starter" packs out there that aren't a bad idea, but mostly Kanthal from what I've seen. But, they may not be a bad idea either.

Kanthal may be easier to start with, maybe I'll just do that.

I would like to eventually try SS in Temperature control, but don't have the setting yet. It does look like I can change the coefficient in Ni and I wonder if it will work just to change that to to the appropriate stainless value? I'd have to remember that I have it like that when I change metal. Anyone know if it will work like that?

 

[JERUS]

Yeah I haven't messed with TC at all yet, just don't see a need. I do use SS but I twist it all and even helix it with some high gauge Kanthal sometimes to even further tweak the heat dissipation. SS heats up damn fast, not too fast for power setting usage like nickel but enough that it takes some work to dial it in perfect.

 

[Ramsay Bolton]

I've never made a coil. I already have the Crown RBA.

Was thinking about trying 316l but not sure what gauge, 24-26 ?

Do I need an ohms meter? I guess I don't understand the point of it.

I have read all about how the Crown RBA sucks. Is it even worth it to use this deck or should I not even bother?

Would I need ceramic tweezers? These are to compress the coil while it's hot?

One thing keep in mind with 316L wire is that more winds/wraps with be required
to achieve the desired ohm range compared with Nichrome 80 and Kanthal A1.
That is why JERUS recommended making twisted 316L coils.


Ex: 0.5ohm coil / 3mm inner diameter / All wire 24awg

This is an approximation.

Kanthal A1 (24 awg): 5 full wraps / 5/6 half wraps

Nichrome 80 (24 awg): 7 full wraps / 8/7 half wraps

316L (24 awg): 10 full wraps / 11/10 half wraps


For reference - 0.5ohm 316L:

316L (26awg): 7 full wraps / 7/6 half wraps

316L (28awg): 4 full wraps / 5/4 half wraps


Personally, I use 26awg 316L wire for lower ohm coils and 28awg
when I want a coil above 1ohm.

-

 

[Model_A_Ford]

Ordered 24, 26, 28, 30 gauge Kanthal and some cotton. I'll set the stainless idea to the side for now.

I'm looking at the Geekvape 521 master kit, looks like a decent kit? I'll probably wait until it's more available, it's still pretty new and I'm not seeing it for a good price yet.

Steam-engine is pretty awesome! I'd been on there before, but hadn't really looked at the coil builder.

 

[JERUS]

Doesn't look bad, though I'd go grab a set of toothless/flat needlenose pliers, the teeth can mess up your coil.

You don't really need all that but it's a worthwhile investment if you plan to get into coil wrapping.