Nope.I have a couple more coming that you'll like. Did you see my latest "Shorty"?
BirchIs the white spacer between the mod and the top Micarta?
7 wraps/22g.....total of .19ohms
I build mine with the tops of the coils even with the screws and havent burned it yet...Thanks for posting this, I just got my Orchid in on Monday. Totally forgot that I needed to raise the coils up so they wouldn't burn the insulator.
I use 22g on everything.What diameter do you use? I tried to build 24 gauge once but it kept shorting on the walls.
Wicking is not effected. I prefer to have the airflow develop well below the coils, plus I do offset legs on my coils so they are centred...doing this places them farther from the posts and over the threads...so raising them up is necessary in order to prevent them from contacting the sides of the chimney.Does putting the coils up that high effect the wicking at all? I've got a v3 and usually put the coils about 2-3mm from the airflow. Been wondering if going higher up might help. Also, how do you wick your little beastie? I love these little guys, only my favorite flavors get to fill her up, so building better is a must!
As for wicking...the ends of the wick should just make contact with the build deck.....they are to be nowhere near the air holes, and there is no need for them to extend into the juice channels whatsoever. The last two items are the main reason why so many have leaking issues with the Kayfuns and Orchids.
I had issues initially, but found that just a little tip in/over the channels solved this, and keeping the wick fluffy around it kept it from giving me dry hits. Im gonna rebuild it later and try out just having deck contact. If you get a chance could you post a pic?Wicking is not effected. I prefer to have the airflow develop well below the coils, plus I do offset legs on my coils so they are centred...doing this places them farther from the posts and over the threads...so raising them up is necessary in order to prevent them from contacting the sides of the chimney.
As for wicking...the ends of the wick should just make contact with the build deck.....they are to be nowhere near the air holes, and there is no need for them to extend into the juice channels whatsoever. The last two items are the main reason why so many have leaking issues with the Kayfuns and Orchids.
I have done that same build with 24g @. .57omsMy similar build, except using 28 gauge and 14 wraps each on a 1.8mm screwdriver. (1.1 ohms)
Yes, the edge of the coil IS pretty close to the edge of the deck, but it was pushed a smidgen father over when I wicked it. Not worrying about wicking the channels makes it work.
It's a nice thing to build on.
As promised:I had issues initially, but found that just a little tip in/over the channels solved this, and keeping the wick fluffy around it kept it from giving me dry hits. Im gonna rebuild it later and try out just having deck contact. If you get a chance could you post a pic?
As promised:
Pre-Tuck
Post Tuck:
Note that air holes are unobstructed, and that no cotton is in the juice channels.
I do the exact same.. Screw putting it down the channels..As promised:
Pre-Tuck
Post Tuck:
Note that air holes are unobstructed, and that no cotton is in the juice channels.
Increased juice flow meets good airflow equals a lot of flavour and vapour production.Will try after this tank, will that help with flavor, Im not having dry hits?
Increased juice flow meets good airflow equals a lot of flavour and vapour production.
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you also need to account t for surface area of the coils in contact with the juice.To echo francis, if wicked properly the flavor is spot on at the right wattage.
How is the vape. The biggest con I have with the orchid is the lack of adjustable air flow. When I built a single coil it was far to airy.I posted this somewhere else, but I think it will help here. http://vapingunderground.com/index.php?posts/199637
Post your builds
<br />Dual chimney coil orchid. Single coil shown to be directly above air channels<br />
Done!Please refresh the pics Franco!