Best fasttech mech clone

retrox · Jul 13, 2014

You're not going to see an increase in flavor from your KF with a mech as opposed to a regulated device. Since the KF isn't really known for performing well at sub-ohm ranges, an effective build on the KF doesn't require the unbridled power that a mech supplies.

That said, I prefer mechs because of the compact form factor using 18350/490 batteries. I also don't like fooling around with digital displays and menus and 3 clicks on 3 clicks off and all that... I like to press a button and get a vape.

Daniel · Jul 13, 2014

Retrox, Ok, so you're saying I'm gonna be better off staying with the variables then. Ok, no problem. I don't have the patience for a dripper, I just wanna fill up the tank, se my wattage and go. Having to refill the dripper every couple of minutes is too much work for me, and trying to do it while driving a truck is just totally out of the question...lol. Thanks for the advice my friend...

steamer861 · Jul 13, 2014

I thought this too I used to run my KF's at 1.3 Now I run a parallel coil at .6 and the flavour is intense

The vapour production is still not that great and juice contusion is way higher
I run both Mecs and DNA's I like the DNA's a little better A more consistent hit thru the battery life and the usb charging port are 2 definite advantages

I don't go lower than .6 So DNA's are better IMO

retrox said:
You're not going to see an increase in flavor from your KF with a mech as opposed to a regulated device. Since the KF isn't really known for performing well at sub-ohm ranges, an effective build on the KF doesn't require the unbridled power that a mech supplies.

That said, I prefer mechs because of the compact form factor using 18350/490 batteries. I also don't like fooling around with digital displays and menus and 3 clicks on 3 clicks off and all that... I like to press a button and get a vape.

retrox · Jul 13, 2014

Interesting, I've gone down to .5 with a KFL (macro coil) and didn't note any substantial difference flavor-wise. It was definitely a warmer, more intense vape, and I have noticed that some flavorings benefit from additional heat. I do tend to vape more "delicate" flavors in my KFLs though, so maybe that's why. My tobacco vapes go into the TOBH or Nimbus at around .5, and they sing like angels. I'm waiting for the new SX chipped devices to drop before venturing into DNA land. A Provari Mini is the only regulated device I own.

KFL is a great topper to complement regulated devices, so you should be good to go, Daniel!

StrappedKaos · Jul 14, 2014

On a side note.... I have three KFL's and could not get what I wanted from them but no doubt they are great. I use my origin/aqua now for when I drive as the aqua is the only dual coil I use even with all my drippers. I know odd ball out.

cordar · Jul 16, 2014

great info here!!!!! What mod would you recommend that has 510 and ego threading? thanks

Cramptholomew · Jul 16, 2014

StrappedKaos said:
On a side note.... I have three KFL's and could not get what I wanted from them but no doubt they are great. I use my origin/aqua now for when I drive as the aqua is the only dual coil I use even with all my drippers. I know odd ball out.

You need a Fogger. True story.

cthulhufan · Jul 16, 2014

Hobby Kid said:
Can I say NOT the Maraxus (remember that. It's hype went quiet pretty quick). It hit hard for a whole day

Guess it depends on which clone you get. My particular Maraxus was a wonderful unit that lasted many, many months of hard use with minimal voltage drop and just plain "did right by me". Now that I have my REO, it is in storage as a backup but I will never complain about it because it was just fantastic.

MEENMAN83 · Jul 16, 2014

Shenxi Panzers and Atomic RDAs are VERY good....they are better than the originals. They have taken the time to master the threading on their blackhawk by not coating them, I honestly think they made the MCV originals as their engraving and coatings are a perfect match

VapingCuban · Jul 17, 2014

StrappedKaos said:
In case anyone was interested, I bought an aluminum private v2 and threads strips and that was dang almost a year ago. Next was a brass m16. If they are the same as before I pulled the silver plated bottom contact from private and put in m16, the contact does not screw in all the way down but just so close that it shortens throw but still very safe. The positive is by far one of the best designs and all should use it, spring loaded so never swapped private positive post. I did how ever drill positive to have a small hole in center and poured silver into it and coated it with 99.5% silver. That was first smelting project and now even my paragon has prototype silver pins. For the money the m16 is perfect starting mod and is bullet proof, upgrade to silver pins and it still gets use by me a year later and many mods in collection

Do you have a video of this melting project to get the silver plated? Or where did you learn to do this? Wow

VapingCuban · Jul 17, 2014

Cramptholomew said:
Hmmm. FT GP Paps Brass, or the FT Stingray X... It's time for a new order, and I'm stuck between the two. On one hand, "Paps, best bang for your buck", on the other, "look at that Stingray X. BUT no one's reviewed it yet", and I'm a little wary of that recessed top... Ugh, I hate decisions.

Get the gp paps no question about it!

StrappedKaos · Jul 18, 2014

I learned thru making jewelry, It have a smelter and you can buy 99.5% or better silver beads/Blocks on ebay or other sources.
I used a copper tube and flared one end and then sanded it to fit the delrin piece perfect with a little slide in order to accommodate the sliver plate, it's only a couple skins thick so not to thick at all. I then took the copper hollow tube and used a dremel to rough the inside up and then set that in a mold with sand in order to limit my sanding needed. Melt the silver and remove the top skin what I will call a tin. I then apply flux inside all the copper to help it adhere to. Then pour silver half way, use a torch to heat outside of copper so it help settle the silver evenly. A repeat till it has a full "head: on it and over the flare, then I sand it to sit flush. using a torch on the top and bottom of the created pin in order to keep it flat/flush on a molecular level.
It is not that hard but attention to details make it a better option then solid copper in a sense. Coating is similar method and requires electrical current to do it cheaper and easier, you can look that up also on ebay. I have always enjoyed creating and re-engineering stuff so it is all in good fun to me. Next is to insert a copper thread insert into it and plate it so I have the ability to adjust it.

Soulkarve · Jul 19, 2014

Spike64 said:
Agree with you on the aluminum ones....a similar mod was the 11 dollar aluminum and brass Private V2 clone I picked up some time back from FT...the aluminum threads stripped out badly after a few days with very little usage...It's pretty much an 11 dollar paperweight these days....lol

Funny thing about those Private V2s. I had heard about that problem shortly after I got mine around nine months ago. I however have not had that problem and it has been one of my best mods.

Chris Mc · Jul 20, 2014

I enjoy my SS nemmie from fasttech. Had to fix the threading on the firing button with electrical tape because it was to loose and literally falling of its threads. Other than that no real complaints. I'm considering buying the brass 4nine and a Quasar to match. Thoughts? Anyone rocking that combo?

Chowder · Jul 23, 2014

Daniel said:
Hey everyone!
I've been seriously thinking about getting a Nenesis, but I don't know much about how hard they hit or if I would even like it. I've been using an Innokin SVD, & a Cool Fire 2 grenade, both are variable. I understand they are totally unregulated mods, and unprotected, that's not a problem, the question comes in as whether a full mod would be good for me. I'm a taste freak, and have to have a good taste coming from my juices.

So, I guess I need to go to my vape shop here in town, and experiment with one, & just see how I like it. I was told that without a doubt, drippers are the way to go, but I tend to disagree. I love my Kayfuns, and will not give them up, so what do you guys think? Should I just stay with the variables & be happy, or is a mech mod all it's cracked up to be? Thanks guys, I really appreciate you all!

Daniel

In either case, it really depends on the quality of the build and wicking. That being said, I do tend to get more flavor from my drippers. However, it is not necessary to by a mech specifically for dripping. You can use a dripper on a regulated APV with really good results. Try to get a cheap dripper (IGO-L/W, Stillare clone, etc. usually around $10) and try it on your regulated. Of course you are limited on the coil(s) you can put into a dripper on a regulated mod by the ohm rating of the APV. If it's something that works for you, then I highly suggest an all brass, telescoping, M-16 clone instead of the Neme. It tends to be more rugged and worry free. I have this one and could not be happier with solid performance:

http://www.fasttech.com/product/1425200

Daniel · Jul 23, 2014

Chowder said:
In either case, it really depends on the quality of the build and wicking. That being said, I do tend to get more flavor from my drippers. However, it is not necessary to by a mech specifically for dripping. You can use a dripper on a regulated APV with really good results. Try to get a cheap dripper (IGO-L/W, Stillare clone, etc. usually around $10) and try it on your regulated. Of course you are limited on the coil(s) you can put into a dripper on a regulated mod by the ohm rating of the APV. If it's something that works for you, then I highly suggest an all brass, telescoping, M-16 clone instead of the Neme. It tends to be more rugged and worry free. I have this one and could not be happier with solid performance:

http://www.fasttech.com/product/1425200

Chowder,
I like the looks of this mod. 1 question...if I wanted to just use my Taifuns & Kayfuns on it, can I do that? And do I need to buy other batteries than my Efest IMR's, & AW's? All are 18650.

Daniel.

Chowder · Jul 23, 2014

Daniel said:
Chowder,
I like the looks of this mod. 1 question...if I wanted to just use my Taifuns & Kayfuns on it, can I do that? And do I need to buy other batteries than my Efest IMR's, & AW's? All are 18650.

Daniel.

You can use just about any topper on the M-16 and just about any 18XXX series battery. And yes you can use your Efest and AW IMR's. I use Sony VTC4's and 5's exclusively in all my mods, but as long as your coil builds are within the safe ohm reading for the amp rating for the batteries, Efest and AW's are just fine. Here's what the KayFun 3.1 looks like on the M-16 in '650 mode:

bsoplinger · Jul 28, 2014

I grabbed the Stingray X from focalecig USA warehouse. Paid extra but ordered last Monday evening and received it in Thursday mail. Best $38 I've spent on a mod. Its gorgeous.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

KamenRider · Jul 29, 2014

Like others have stated in this thread, if you're looking for a sleek 22mm mech that hits well, has a great switch, and is cheap, the brass GP Paps clone is hard to beat. Not perfect, but it does what it's supposed to and does it very well at an awesome price point.

It's actually made me look into possibly getting an original Paps.

Dj Xy · Jul 29, 2014

I'm really pleased with the Turtleship V2 brass clone from Fasttech
Hits hard, can handle anything from a 18350-18650 with or without a kick.
It did need some serious cleaning when I got it as it was coated in machine oil residue.

buffaloguy · Aug 1, 2014

Im gonna say the same as alot of others. The all brass M16. If you are after a workhorse that functions well this is it. I am going to buy the stainless/brass next. I would stay away from the aluminum/brass tho. The threading on the aluminum goes bad quick.

If you go with the brass m16 I suggest buying a magnet upgrade for the switch and also putting a small ball of plumbers/teflon tape in the firing pin head before you screw the switch in. This will help keep it from loosening by itself.

Daniel · Aug 1, 2014

I need to make an error correction on the battery I am using. It's the Sony C4. I bought 2 of them, & I'm planning on grabbing a couple more, so I won't run into a problem, if I need one, and don't have one charged. Does anyone know just roughly, how long these last with heavy vaping practices? Probably gonna carry the spare around with me just in case, but would be great to have a rough idea of their time limit. Ok, tanks guys, I'm loving this mech mod, feel like I should have had one a long time ago. lol.

kuma · Aug 1, 2014

Dj Xy said:
I'm really pleased with the Turtleship V2 brass clone from Fasttech
Hits hard, can handle anything from a 18350-18650 with or without a kick.
It did need some serious cleaning when I got it as it was coated in machine oil residue.

I just got the V3 and V3 special (which is the 2013 special that was meant for the v2's) they both hit like champs although I think the regular v3 is just a slight bit better with the silver plated contacts

Galaxyrider · Aug 1, 2014

jeremy said:
I'm a sucker for cheap Nemmies. Having said that, my beautiful brass Nemesis is completely shot at the 510.

Can't you get another top cap? That might be a stupid question.. but I have no idea. I was given a Sentinel M-16, the brass and aluminum type.. Can a new top cap and fire button be gotten for that? It was a gift.. or should I just replace it, The fire button is constantly unscrewing from the Pos contact slug.

Galaxyrider · Aug 1, 2014

Daniel said:
I need to make an error correction on the battery I am using. It's the Sony C4. I bought 2 of them, & I'm planning on grabbing a couple more, so I won't run into a problem, if I need one, and don't have one charged. Does anyone know just roughly, how long these last with heavy vaping practices? Probably gonna carry the spare around with me just in case, but would be great to have a rough idea of their time limit. Ok, tanks guys, I'm loving this mech mod, feel like I should have had one a long time ago. lol.

I learned back in the days when I was using an EGO.. always keep a charged battery with you Ive only sapped one of my sony batteries once, but that was a very long day. My granpappy always said "It's infinitely better to have and not need, than to need, and not have." $#!+ my granpaw said.. lol

Dj Xy · Aug 3, 2014

kuma said:
I just got the V3 and V3 special (which is the 2013 special that was meant for the v2's) they both hit like champs although I think the regular v3 is just a slight bit better with the silver plated contacts

I feel the V2 with the brass contacts hits perfectly, its the only mech I own that has required no maintenance aside from polishing when I feel like it, I use it mostly for work so I don't really care how it looks, I use my ZNA when I'm not at work.

Jhonnix · May 14, 2015

Lets say i want a mod that already comes with the RDA on the FT site which one you guys recommend??

-From a guy who is coming in the vaping community.

OBDave · May 15, 2015

Jhonnix said:
Lets say i want a mod that already comes with the RDA on the FT site which one you guys recommend??

-From a guy who is coming in the vaping community.

I would buy them separately. I don't know of any regulated mods (unless you're counting an eGo) that come with a topper. Asking a question like this, I've got to strongly recommend against getting a mech as your first mod - actually, I strongly recommend against getting a mech as anyone's first mod.

retic1959 · May 16, 2015

I have the SS 26650 Panzer from FT . It's an absolute monster mech , it's big , solid and heavy , it'll double as a shillelaigh if needed . But the machining and threading are excellent , silky smooth lock ring and button on it . Some archaeologist will be scratching his head over it a thousand years from now .

Best fasttech mech clone

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