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Atlantis joules settings
- Thread starter smacksy
- Start date
I gave up on joules, just not my style of vaping..Went back to power mode and the Starre at 60w.... Back in the clouds again!,, I wouldn't have it any other way, lol
from my Droid Maxx via Tapatalk
TL will never compete in the cloud comp area...
that being said...pre built .15 ohm coils (atlantis) / .12 ohm (kanger) are heading toward the upper limit for "sweet spot"...
still doable and usually a pretty descent vape
but, try building down to .065-.090 and its a whole different ball game
i also realize that alot of folks dont build and just want to enjoy a good vape with the disposable heads...
and if you are looking for a kanthal style hot vape with NI, it most likely wont happen...its warm, consistent, but not hot IMO
that being said i only can speak for the sx mini m and rdna40...dont own the ipv4 nor the m80 so i have no idea if they are accurate or if they even work
dont give up on the technology, its in its infancy
im no expert and still learning, just thinking out loud...sorry your experience was not what you expected and im sure others will chime in and get you off to a better experience
that being said...pre built .15 ohm coils (atlantis) / .12 ohm (kanger) are heading toward the upper limit for "sweet spot"...
still doable and usually a pretty descent vape
but, try building down to .065-.090 and its a whole different ball game
i also realize that alot of folks dont build and just want to enjoy a good vape with the disposable heads...
and if you are looking for a kanthal style hot vape with NI, it most likely wont happen...its warm, consistent, but not hot IMO
that being said i only can speak for the sx mini m and rdna40...dont own the ipv4 nor the m80 so i have no idea if they are accurate or if they even work
dont give up on the technology, its in its infancy
im no expert and still learning, just thinking out loud...sorry your experience was not what you expected and im sure others will chime in and get you off to a better experience
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I know Ni200 is almost no resistance, and very different from kanthal, as is using TC. However, I must admit resistances like .08 just naturally trigger a don't do it for me. I wouldn't dare build that with kanthal. Hope to be building with Nickel around there soon, though.
The cold (resting) resistance is not the resistance you are vaping at so don't stress too much about the low resistance with NI200. The resistance rises dramatically when you heat the coil, so you are vaping at a significantly higher resistance with nickel once it reaches vaping temp. I would agree that 0.065 would be concerning with a kanthal build, but with nickel it's ok since that isn't the resistance you are really vaping at. Just takes a different view of resistance with the different coil material.
Yup, I'm starting to grasp all of this. Ni200 is very different it seems. Even Kanthal shifts a tiny bit when hot. Just a new way of doing things to play with, that hopefully works.
f1r3b1rd
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The best thing to do is put the atty on the ipv4 and leave it alone for a good 20-30 minutes.
Then pair them together (+&&-) button to load in the resistance.
I vape mine at 480-500 degrees and 45j
Then pair them together (+&&-) button to load in the resistance.
I vape mine at 480-500 degrees and 45j
Low atty resistance can be a safety issue with mechanical and variable voltage mods because battery amp draw in those setups goes up as resistance goes down. With variable wattage mods it doesn't work that way. Amp draw is directly related to power (watt) output from the mod. If you set say 40 watts, battery amp draw (as opposed to device amp output) will be almost the same at 0.1 ohm as for 3.0 ohms.
ETA: Unless you were talking about something else entirely, in which case forget I ever said that
IMO you may be temperature limiting your power (watts) with a setting of 400 deg F. If you raise the temp I think the IPV4 will give you the power you're looking for and your vapor production will improve a lot.
I don't have a IPV4, but this reasoning is working for me with a DNA40 and I think the systems are pretty similar. I have vaped as high as 480 F with good results. Best of luck with it
IMO you may be temperature limiting your power (watts) with a setting of 400 deg F. If you raise the temp I think the IPV4 will give you the power you're looking for and your vapor production will improve a lot.
I don't have a IPV4, but this reasoning is working for me with a DNA40 and I think the systems are pretty similar. I have vaped as high as 480 F with good results. Best of luck with it
I agree with this Ryedan. Too high a power setting for the temp leaves the mod not firing more than it's firing leaving a lackluster vape experience. Kind of like using the pulse mode on a microwave to defrost some meat. It will pulse enough to defrost, but the pulses are far enough apart that it won't really cook the meat. I like to set the temp so I get the warmth of vape I like and then set the power level so it stays on enough to maintain at that temp or very slightly below so the power delivery stays more constant. I think that is even more important on the YiHi method of temp control than it is on the DNA40 method. But with either chip that's the way I get the best vape for both flavor and vapor. Just setting the power as high as it can go without balancing the power to temp doesn't give me anywhere near as good a vape.
f1r3b1rd
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Low atty resistance can be a safety issue with mechanical and variable voltage mods because battery amp draw in those setups goes up as resistance goes down. With variable wattage mods it doesn't work that way. Amp draw is directly related to power (watt) output from the mod. If you set say 40 watts, battery amp draw (as opposed to device amp output) will be almost the same at 0.1 ohm as for 3.0 ohms.
ETA: Unless you were talking about something else entirely, in which case forget I ever said that
^^^ what he said'
On the SXM I'm running the Atlantis NI200 coils at 40j and 475 degrees in the eclipse
Or
43j and 500 degrees in an Atlantis.
The way I look at it is I can run either temp limited or power limited. So far I find I get a more consistent vape when it's power limited and the mod only pulls down the power if I do something wrong that lets the coil run too dry to handle the power I've set.
Then again, I've been vaping mech mods for a couple of years and I'm still learning the intricacies of VW and temperature sensing. Mech mods are of course completely power limited and I've become very comfortable with designing setups that will run well for me at a given power level. I'm going to experiment a bit more with temp limiting to see if there are any advantages in it.
Yow! Try 30 Joules and 475 degrees. Then work your way up with the Joules