Battery help

[gman]

Hello everyone am some what new to vaping and wanted to know what would be a good 18650 battery for sub ohms but not super low max 0.2 ohms and as high as 1.0 I use Samsung INR 18650-25R 2500mAh Battery and found a trust worthy shop with authentic sony vtc5 should I go with sony or samsung I use both mechanicals and vw devices or is there something better



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[JXN]

At .2 and 4.2 volts you're nearing the Sammies amp limit. Sony would give you more headroom but for the price/performance I would recommend Samsung and to be aware of their limits. I don't like to build under .4 for that reason.

 

[Whiskey]

Moved to battery section

 

[Neunerball]

I think, due to not trusting the authenticity of the Sony VTC4/VTC5, next time I have to buy batteries for my mech mods, I'll try the new Xtar XTVTC4.

 

[NemesisVaper]

Why not cut out the middle man and go for a known, actual manufacturer like LG, Samsung etc? If that Xtar battery has higher than a stated 30A limit it's probably a completely fabricated number.

Assuming 4.2v then that's 21A, technically over the amp limit of the 25r and HE2/4. Sourcing Sonny batteries is a pain in the assessment and IMO the Vtc 5 never was a 30A battery, not with the kind of heat they generate when you load them up like that.

The LG HD2 seems a perfect choice at 25A continuous and not bad at 2000mAh. That is if you're comfortable with 4A of headroom. Looking at the Xtar mentioned it may well be a HD2 with a couple hundred mAh capacity added ie lied about. Can't see the positive cap verybwell but it looks possible that it's an LG battery.

A 0.4 ohm limit is a bit conservative (just over 10A at 4.2v) but everyone has a limit they feel safe at, fair play.

 

[martinelias]

Lightningvapes has vtc4s.

 

[BoomStick]

IMO the Vtc 5 never was a 30A battery, not with the kind of heat they generate when you load them up like that.

The testing showed pulling a continuous 30 amps from 4.2v all the way to below 3v before the vtc5 broke 80 degrees Celsius. You can't replicate those conditions with any mod. However, the testing didn't involve encasing the battery in a metal tube or box with an attached heating element either. I consider the testing data when deciding how to use a high drain battery, but I don't blindly accept a number determined by someone else to be the magical line between safe and unsafe especially when they're picking that number based on testing that doesn't come anywhere close to replicating the conditions that exist when I'm using one of these types of batteries for vaping. Just some of my 'down in the weeds' thoughts as I see the safe/unsafe line to be blurry, not fine.

 

[NemesisVaper]

I understand your thoughts.

I've had one instance of autofiring on a mech and it was a bit of an adrenalin rush to be honest.

During normal use I'm not too worried about my own.personal safety. It's when the crap hits the fan that I believe I'll need the best shot I have at sorting things out safely. Imagine walking back into a room to find a mod that's been autofiring for a while and it's so hot you can't even touch it, not just from the atty but from the battery too. Could I pick it up and unscrew something to break the connection or even to toss it? I wouldn't know to use other means of handling it because perhaps I wouldn't expect it to be so hot. I don't know if the cell being so hot would contribute to an issue or if it would be red hot anyway to be honest , I'd just rather not risk it.

I'm definitely not saying blindly take other people's word as Gospel or to be a worrier and think that the worst possible scenario is just round the corner. Just saying that personally I found that kind of heat generation excessive and without some form of passive or active cooling a battery that gets that hot during something it's specced to be doing bothersome for me.

Is it a continuous 30A cell if you're unable to physically touch it while it's being discharged? That was my thinking behind choosing not to use them or seek them out. If I did come across some.I'd treat them as decent 20A batteries myself.

Since the autofiring experience I had, caused by a rather short battery needing me to adjust the bottom pin, I tend to go with safety and I make judgement calls based on what I deem reasonable. Others may disagree and I have no right to tell them any different. People need to do what feels safefor them.

 

[BoomStick]

Sounds like we're on a similar wavelength. Knowledge and judgement. The 'oh shit!' situations are definately what concern me the most and are the hardest to predict what will happen. Say you have a 20a cell in a tube mech and have the atty built to draw 18a with a fresh battery. You could say that since the volts will fall off as the battery drains and the resistance is fixed, the current will fall off so an auto fire situation shouldn't be an issue since you're starting below the cdr and continue to drop farther away from it during the auto fire. However, with the battery being encased in a thermally conductive and insulating tube with an atomizer containing a heating element attached, the battery could very well overheat even though you're under the continuous amp limit. And of course if nothing goes wrong, it's possible to safely vape above the cdr. Again, knowledge and judgement.

 

[NemesisVaper]

Totally agree with everything you said there.

I know of people using 25r's for 0.08 builds. I wouldn't even do a 0.15 one. To be honest I wouldn't really trust a cheap chappy ohm metre to even be accurate to 0.01 of an ohm. Big Lou on YouTube super sub ohms on single cell mechs for instance. That kind of thing isn't for me, but good luck to him. He's really cool to watch actually, and he does say not to replicate what he does.

 

[BoomStick]

Wow. That's a little out of my comfort zone. I'd want two batteries in parallel supporting builds that low.

 

[Jon@LiionWholesale]

The VTC5 is only rated 30A if you have temperature cut circuitry set to 80C, under normal circumstances it's rated 20A. They get crazy hot really fast running them at 30A. The 25R and VTC5 are direct competitors and the 25R is a lot cheaper. If you really need 30A, go with the VTC4, that can actually comfortably handle 30A.

 

[BoomStick]