BEST BATTERIES? Does ANYBODY KNOW?

[MWRoze]

Ok so I run an IPV3 with a .20ohm build. I have 2 LGHE2 in it, never had any problems but Id like to try some other batteries to see what would perform better and last longer. After plenty of research I decided to go with the purple Efest 3100mah. I was looking online for a place to purchase them when I came across a thread claiming Efest lied about the max output of 30a and that tests have been shown it is actually less then a 4a continuous output. This seems ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS TO ME! Is this real??? WHAT BATTERIES CAN I TRUST????

 

[BoomStick]

I would not trust those efest's. At all. I personally don't use any efest cell as it's widely accepted that they lie about specs. Fuck them. Just my opinion.

 

[JerryOden]

MXJO's are what everyone I know says are the best. I haven't been vaping long, but Ive had good luck with them so far.

 

[efektt]

MXJO's are what everyone I know says are the best. I haven't been vaping long, but Ive had good luck with them so far.

I am pretty sure mxjos are rewrapped lg he2.

 

[BoomStick]

The max input current is 30 amps for that device just so you know.

 

[Ryedan]

Ok so I run an IPV3 with a .20ohm build. I have 2 LGHE2 in it, never had any problems but Id like to try some other batteries to see what would perform better and last longer. After plenty of research I decided to go with the purple Efest 3100mah. I was looking online for a place to purchase them when I came across a thread claiming Efest lied about the max output of 30a and that tests have been shown it is actually less then a 4a continuous output. This seems ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS TO ME! Is this real??? WHAT BATTERIES CAN I TRUST????

First, it doesn't matter what resistance builds you use, if you set it to 150 watts, it's gonna take 150 watts from the battery plus another 15'ish% to cover power chip loss. It's for all intents the same for a 0.1 ohm or a 2.0 ohm setup.

As BoomStick said, at max power you will draw up to 30 amps from each batt. Samsung 25R and LG HE2 are very good 20 amp batteries, but if I were vaping at 30 amps I would not use them. The only batts I know of that are rated 30A are the Sony VTC series and you can't get authentic VTC5 at 2600 mAh anywhere that I know of so the VTC4 at 2100 mAh is the best available. The best buy I know of now is from IMR Batteries for $9.00 a piece.

I stick with Sony, Samsung, LG, Panasonic, AW, the big names that I know give me accurate specs on their batteries. I stay away from the others. Buy from known, good suppliers and you'll have authentic batts. IMO there are no real 35A, or 40A Li-ion 18650 on the market today. Those numbers are burst specs and I ignore those. Works for me, but as always, YMMV

I don't know the purple Efest 3100mah, but if 3100 mAh is correct it's nowhere near 30A capable and if it is 30A capable then it's no where near 3100 mAh, so something's off there. Efest rebrands batts from other manufacturers. Panasonic has a NCR18650A (the one I linked to is protected, but most of time these are not) that is rated if I remember correctly at around 7 amps max. Could be that one, or not. If it is that one, at least it's a very safe battery.

 

[madmonkey]

I'd go with the VTC 4's first choice, VTC 3's second, Samsung 20R or 25R for a third, and HE4's fourth, and AW's new 20 amp battery 5th because of price....If you go to the Pegasus Vapor Academy channel on youtube he's recently started two series on testing batteries, just straight numbers and no opinions, the 25R's did better in the stress tests than the LG's, and the 20R's are a 22 amp battery and are the closest thing to 30 amp continuous you're going to get with 2000 mah or over, VTC 3's are also 30 amp continuous and then the old AW 1600 mah everyone forgets about these days....that battery is a 24 amp continuous drain...it's not the longest mah life but it's a solid batt

 

[BoomStick]

How are they testing the cells?

 

[muth]

I'd go with the VTC 4's first choice, VTC 3's second, Samsung 20R or 25R for a third, and HE4's fourth, and AW's new 20 amp battery 5th because of price....If you go to the Pegasus Vapor Academy channel on youtube he's recently started two series on testing batteries, just straight numbers and no opinions, the 25R's did better in the stress tests than the LG's, and the 20R's are a 22 amp battery and are the closest thing to 30 amp continuous you're going to get with 2000 mah or over, VTC 3's are also 30 amp continuous and then the old AW 1600 mah everyone forgets about these days....that battery is a 24 amp continuous drain...it's not the longest mah life but it's a solid batt

What are people paying for HE4s lately? imr has them for $7. Should I grab a couple? MXJOs 35A are $7.50

 

[madmonkey]

@muth that's what imrbatteries has them listed for. $7 dollars

@BoomStick ...he inlisted a guy that is a professional that has the proper testing and graphing equipment. Got the The Pegasus Vapor Academy Youtube channel and watch "the amp hour" videos...hell...here's the link...

he also states why I say VTC5's are not 30 amp batteries

 

[muth]

@muth that's what imrbatteries has them listed for. $7 dollars

@BoomStick ...he inlisted a guy that is a professional that has the proper testing and graphing equipment. Got the The Pegasus Vapor Academy Youtube channel and watch "the amp hour" videos...hell...here's the link...

he also states why I say VTC5's are not 30 amp batteries

Yep, $7 plus $1.99 S&H. Have you seen a better price? I think I saw this vid but I'm gonna watch it again. Thanks.

 

[madmonkey]

@muth ...sure, no problem...I don't mind backing up what I state with where I got my information...and if I think someone is full of it I won't quote them as fact either...safety first right?

I haven't seen a better price but I haven't been looking either...I've been thinking about buying some HD2's to try them out...but I just bought some more 25R's and VTC4's as my friend never charges the first set of batteries I gave him so he is slowly acquiring all my old stock...so I am looking at my new dozen unused batteries going "do I really need another one? These things are going to die from old age before I cycle them out"

 

[BoomStick]

The vtc5 spec sheet uses 2.5v as the cutoff. Regulated devices shutoff above 3v and mech users swap them above 3v so for our purposes they are 30 amp cells. You can run a vtc5 from full charge to 3.1-3.2 volts constantly pulling 30 amps and they never exceed 80 degrees celcius. Repeat someone else's conclusions about data or look at the data yourself and come up with your own conclusion based on your specific application.
Because regulated devices shutdown when battery voltage is above 3v, 20a cdr is inaccurate. And since resistance in a mech is fixed, as the battery voltage drops so does the current. A build that pulls 30 amps at 4.2v pulls less current as soon as voltage starts going down. Saying that a vtc5 is not a 30a cdr cell is inaccurate when applied to vaping.

 

[Anus Braun]

Ok so I run an IPV3 with a .20ohm build. I have 2 LGHE2 in it, never had any problems but Id like to try some other batteries to see what would perform better and last longer. After plenty of research I decided to go with the purple Efest 3100mah. I was looking online for a place to purchase them when I came across a thread claiming Efest lied about the max output of 30a and that tests have been shown it is actually less then a 4a continuous output. This seems ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS TO ME! Is this real??? WHAT BATTERIES CAN I TRUST????

I try to get the Sonys...by their rep, to suit your device.

 

[madmonkey]

The vtc5 spec sheet uses 2.5v as the cutoff. Regulated devices shutoff above 3v and mech users swap them above 3v so for our purposes they are 30 amp cells. You can run a vtc5 from full charge to 3.1-3.2 volts constantly pulling 30 amps and they never exceed 80 degrees celcius. Repeat someone else's conclusions about data or look at the data yourself and come up with your own conclusion based on your specific application.
Because regulated devices shutdown when battery voltage is above 3v, 20a cdr is inaccurate. And since resistance in a mech is fixed, as the battery voltage drops so does the current. A build that pulls 30 amps at 4.2v pulls less current as soon as voltage starts going down. Saying that a vtc5 is not a 30a cdr cell is inaccurate when applied to vaping.

so what you're saying is even the spec sheet, which I read and came to my own conclusions before i ever saw that...is wrong and it's ok do what you want with a battery....80c isn't exactly cool...100c is 212f and that boils water remember? why would I want to push a battery in the the upper 100f's when I can get a battery with less mah that is designed for it? I understand about fix voltage, voltage drop, power reduction and battery life decreases in mechs. If you want to push your battery's and test their safety margins then fine...even that video says there is a little room build into them for safety...but I am not going to tell someone to as good advice because it's not safe...just because nothing has happened to your's yet doesn't mean it cant. The battery isn't measured and designed for are what we do with it to begin with...it's drained in a continuous shot, not pulsed, and

using your logic of pushing a battery vs. it's temperature then you could say a lot of the 20 and 25 amp batteries are 30 or even 40 amp batteries because they "only get so hot"....thats not right and you know it...you're just trying to bend data to support your own believes because you want it to be true.

you're basically saying "I can touch a stove that's on but it's ok because i just turned the burner on for a second and turned it back off so I won't get burned" turn it on and off enough it will still get warm....you don't vape for everyone...the safety guidelines are there for a reason.

You can have your opinions and I can disagree with them...but a battery pushing 100c at 30 amps isn't happy even if it just a bench test. Whether we pulse it so it doesn't have time to get that hot or not...you can do whatever you want. You wanna push your batteries thats fine with me...but I am not going to tell anyone, especially someone learning about them...that it's ok to just ignore what is basically their instruction guide just to blow a little bigger cloud...that's just stupid and doesn't change what they are.

 

[BoomStick]

I never said the data is wrong. I pointed out that the conditions of a bench test don't replicate the conditions of our usage therefore the results of the test aren't directly applicable to our usage. Consider a vtc5 a 20 amp cell if you want.

 

[MKPM]

I primarily use my fleet of VTC5's...but am slowly phasing out my VTC4's in favour of MXJO's. Superb batteries, but approximately .25mm longer than the Sony VTC series.

 

[MWRoze]

The max input current is 30 amps for that device just so you know.

The IPV3?

 

[MWRoze]

First, it doesn't matter what resistance builds you use, if you set it to 150 watts, it's gonna take 150 watts from the battery plus another 15'ish% to cover power chip loss. It's for all intents the same for a 0.1 ohm or a 2.0 ohm setup.

As BoomStick said, at max power you will draw up to 30 amps from each batt. Samsung 25R and LG HE2 are very good 20 amp batteries, but if I were vaping at 30 amps I would not use them. The only batts I know of that are rated 30A are the Sony VTC series and you can't get authentic VTC5 at 2600 mAh anywhere that I know of so the VTC4 at 2100 mAh is the best available. The best buy I know of now is from IMR Batteries for $9.00 a piece.

I stick with Sony, Samsung, LG, Panasonic, AW, the big names that I know give me accurate specs on their batteries. I stay away from the others. Buy from known, good suppliers and you'll have authentic batts. IMO there are no real 35A, or 40A Li-ion 18650 on the market today. Those numbers are burst specs and I ignore those. Works for me, but as always, YMMV

I don't know the purple Efest 3100mah, but if 3100 mAh is correct it's nowhere near 30A capable and if it is 30A capable then it's no where near 3100 mAh, so something's off there. Efest rebrands batts from other manufacturers. Panasonic has a NCR18650A (the one I linked to is protected, but most of time these are not) that is rated if I remember correctly at around 7 amps max. Could be that one, or not. If it is that one, at least it's a very safe battery.

Ok, i am kinda new to this. Your saying with my batts on the ipv3 .1-2.0 ohm would perform the same?

 

[Robert B]

 

[BoomStick]

Ok, i am kinda new to this. Your saying with my batts on the ipv3 .1-2.0 ohm would perform the same?

If the watt setting was the same for both builds the batteries would have the same load applied to them. Mechs and devices with dc-dc converters don't operate the same way.

 

[MWRoze]

If the watt setting was the same for both builds the batteries would have the same load applied to them. Mechs and devices with dc-dc converters don't operate the same way.

Ok but the vapor production would still be different right?

 

[BoomStick]

The IPV3?

Yes. 30amp max input current. Since the batteries are in series, the amp load is not split between them.

 

[MWRoze]

Yes. 30amp max input current. Since the batteries are in series, the amp load is not split between them.

So whats the point in having two batteries? To last longer?

 

[BoomStick]

Ok but the vapor production would still be different right?

Vapor production has to do with the amount of contact area between coil and juiced wick, temperature of the coil and airflow. Resistance measurements alone mean nothing.

 

[MWRoze]

Vapor production has to do with the amount of contact area between coil and juiced wick, temperature of the coil and airflow. Resistance measurements alone mean nothing.

Is it not the lower the resistance the higher the temperature? Maybe Ive done my research in the wrong place..

 

[MWRoze]

Vapor production has to do with the amount of contact area between coil and juiced wick, temperature of the coil and airflow. Resistance measurements alone mean nothing.

Ok so tell me this... what would you recommend for a build, im looking for good flavor, with good vapor production... as it is now, im running a dual parallel, 26g, 4 wrap, 3mm. At 68w. Its good but I actually want great...

 

[BoomStick]

Is it not the lower the resistance the higher the temperature? Maybe Ive done my research in the wrong place..

It's not that simple. Quad 20g coils with a low resistance won't get near as hot as a single 32g coil with higher resistance with both setups having the same voltage applied. Resistance is one variable in the power equation. It doesn't tell the whole story. Watts alone don't tell the whole story either. Applying the same power to different amounts of metal has different results.

 

[MWRoze]

It's not that simple. Quad 20g coils with a low resistance won't get near as hot as a single 32g coil with higher resistance with both setups having the same voltage applied. Resistance is one variable in the power equation. It doesn't tell the whole story. Watts alone don't tell the whole story either. Applying the same power to different amounts of metal has different results.

So what setup would you recommend for best vapor and flavor?

 

[BoomStick]

What atty?

 

[MWRoze]

What atty?

Either mutation x V2... or Plume Veil V1.5.... the flavor is kinda muted in the Mutation but im not sure if there is a way around that.

 

[BoomStick]

Yeah, the mutation is pretty much designed to be a cloud machine. Big chamber and big airflow doesn't produce the best flavor. I don't own either atty so I can only offer general advice. If you want help with specific device build suggestions for specific results you might want to start a thread asking for help from others with experience setting up the particular atty you're building. Only thing I can say is adjust surface area and/or heat or maybe adjust airflow. A device specific thread would probably help you more.

 

[MWRoze]

Yeah, the mutation is pretty much designed to be a cloud machine. Big chamber and big airflow doesn't produce the best flavor. I don't own either atty so I can only offer general advice. If you want help with specific device build suggestions for specific results you might want to start a thread asking for help from others with experience setting up the particular atty you're building. Only thing I can say is adjust surface area and/or heat or maybe adjust airflow. A device specific thread would probably help you more.

Ok, so more surface area... and more heat would be a higher wattage? And ill try a new thread, thank you.

 

[madmonkey]

I never said the data is wrong. I pointed out that the conditions of a bench test don't replicate the conditions of our usage therefore the results of the test aren't directly applicable to our usage. Consider a vtc5 a 20 amp cell if you want.

I've been gone and away for a few days...maybe I should have worded it better...you can push any battery the way you want, it's up to you...but the way we pulse batteries is actually kinda hard on them and if you're going to go by thermal warming vs. amps then you have to also think of increased battery stress, increased internal resistance overtime, and overall loss of performance...all I am saying is you have to look at all the factors and not just the ones you want to support your statements...pushing the battery "the way we use it " like that over time can stress it out and wear it down...even the best batteries don't last forever.

 

[Daniel]

I am pretty sure mxjos are rewrapped lg he2.

If this is true, is this a bad thing? I use Vulcan RDA's & my coils are built at .5 & above. I do have one at .46, but since Vulcans were designed to be a flavor producing RDA, that is pretty much all I am after. I do get some respectable clouds, but that's not what I strive for. I'm thinking seriously about trying a couple of the MXJO batteries out, but I don't want to go to cheap knock offs. Currently I use the Efest 18650 2500 mah 35A, & some Samsung 25R's. But I'm always looking to improve or upgrade my batteries.

I still have about 8 VTC4"s, but they are nowhere near maxed out on the recharge capacity.

 

[BoomStick]

The pulse ratings show certain batteries handling 60+ amps for 80 seconds before overheating. We don't run batteries down to 2.5 volts from a full charge continuously. Bench tests don't factor in the batteries being in a metal tube that could increase cell temp. That graph that junior uses in the video to validate the statement vtc5's are whatever cdr is bullshit. The conditions are completely different. I agree with your last post. I shouldn't have said "our" purposes. Using the test graph as a basis for forming my own opinion, I have chose to consider vtc5's completely safe to use in a setup that draws no more than 30amps. Some kid on an Internet video interpreting results of a test while ignoring a great many factors and then declaring something that is easily picked apart is ridiculous. Earlier I cherry picked certain points to show the test conditions don't replicate the conditions present when they're used in vape gear. There are certainly other factors I left out. This gear requires you understand it and show it a certain level of respect. Acting like a typical ecf'er and being afraid of this gear is not necessary though. (Not saying you are.) I'm just tired of people making definitive statements based on inconclusive data. If I did that I shouldn't have. My intention was to express an alternate opinion for others to consider before they decide for themselves how to use certain batteries.

 

[BoomStick]

If this is true, is this a bad thing? I use Vulcan RDA's & my coils are built at .5 & above. I do have one at .46, but since Vulcans were designed to be a flavor producing RDA, that is pretty much all I am after. I do get some respectable clouds, but that's not what I strive for. I'm thinking seriously about trying a couple of the MXJO batteries out, but I don't want to go to cheap knock offs. Currently I use the Efest 18650 2500 mah 35A, & some Samsung 25R's. But I'm always looking to improve or upgrade my batteries.

I still have about 8 VTC4"s, but they are nowhere near maxed out on the recharge capacity.

The efest's you mention are said to be rewrapped lghe2's as well. As you can see there is a ridiculous amount of uncertainty regarding many of the batteries we use. Frankly I think it's bullshit. We shouldn't have to deal with speculation at this point. I personally prefer batteries that are believed to not be rewraps. That's just me. I have lghe2's (not rewraps) and vtc4's. For now I trust them and won't use anything else.

 

[Daniel]

The efest's you mention are said to be rewrapped lghe2's as well. As you can see there is a ridiculous amount of uncertainty regarding many of the batteries we use. Frankly I think it's bullshit. We shouldn't have to deal with speculation at this point. I personally prefer batteries that are believed to not be rewraps. That's just me. I have lghe2's (not rewraps) and vtc4's. For now I trust them and won't use anything else.

Well, I'll second that opinion on the uncertainty of the batteries. While I haven't had any problems with my Efest batteries, I do have a certain amount of hesitation in using them. It's just gonna depend on how much hesitation I have to continue to buy & use rewraps. Really, my opinion is that we should not have to worry about the dependability of the batteries if the manufacturer were truthful & honest in their reports, and in the manufacturing process. Too many times I think corners are cut to save operational costs, & we, the consumer, end up with the after effects of shoddy workmanship....It's just my opinion though....

I think I will get a couple of the LG's & try them out..

 

[efektt]

Well, I'll second that opinion on the uncertainty of the batteries. While I haven't had any problems with my Efest batteries, I do have a certain amount of hesitation in using them. It's just gonna depend on how much hesitation I have to continue to buy & use rewraps. Really, my opinion is that we should not have to worry about the dependability of the batteries if the manufacturer were truthful & honest in their reports, and in the manufacturing process. Too many times I think corners are cut to save operational costs, & we, the consumer, end up with the after effects of shoddy workmanship....It's just my opinion though....

I think I will get a couple of the LG's & try them out..

Heh, you already have them.. but they are a good 20 amp batt.

 

[madmonkey]

Either mutation x V2... or Plume Veil V1.5.... the flavor is kinda muted in the Mutation but im not sure if there is a way around that.

For what it's worth, I've got a Mutation X V2 and I seem to get pretty good flavor from a 6 wrap 24 gauge single parallel coil build with a 3.2 mm id. Leaving one airflow completely open and the other hole completely closed. It's not the biggest clouds you can get from the thing but I think the flavors better that way paralleling the coil than having two single coils...just my opinion...feel free to disagree.

 

[18650battery]

What about Brillipower IMR26650 3500MAH? Recently is production IMR26650 4500MAH 60A High capacity

 

[BoomStick]

Hey china man, quit spamming the forum trying to sell your companies shit. You guys think we're fucking stupid don't you? Piss off.

 

[madmonkey]

So whats the point in having two batteries? To last longer?

The reason why many regulated box mods need two batteries in series is because most of the earlier high wattage Yihi chipsets are "step-down" based DC-DC converters which basically means that they need the higher voltage from two batteries ran in series to convert the input voltage down to a lower voltage that you set your device at to give it your desired results. Meaning to give it it's range of 1.5-7 volts output voltage it needs an imput voltage of 6.4-8.4 volts so it can convert the power down to the desired level.

It's the opposite of the DNA20/30 boards which are "Step Up" only DC-DC converters that worked on the max input of 4.2 volts and it's lowest output voltage was 4 volts because it couldn't convert the power down, only higher than it's input voltage.

Most newer chipsets coming out are "Step Up/down" converters meaning they can go both ways but they're just now coming to market. I am not sure if Yihi's have been put out in a mod yet but they show specs for "up/down" chipsets on their website and the DNA 40 is "step up/down" which makes a big difference in it's versatility.

 

[MWRoze]

The reason why many regulated box mods need two batteries in series is because most of the earlier high wattage Yihi chipsets are "step-down" based DC-DC converters which basically means that they need the higher voltage from two batteries ran in series to convert the input voltage down to a lower voltage that you set your device at to give it your desired results. Meaning to give it it's range of 1.5-7 volts output voltage it needs an imput voltage of 6.4-8.4 volts so it can convert the power down to the desired level.

It's the opposite of the DNA20/30 boards which are "Step Up" only DC-DC converters that worked on the max input of 4.2 volts and it's lowest output voltage was 4 volts because it couldn't convert the power down, only higher than it's input voltage.

Most newer chipsets coming out are "Step Up/down" converters meaning they can go both ways but they're just now coming to market. I am not sure if Yihi's have been put out in a mod yet but they show specs for "up/down" chipsets on their website and the DNA 40 is "step up/down" which makes a big difference in it's versatility.

Very interesting and way out of my league. But thank you very much for your help. I will definitely be trying the build you recommended. Thanks!

 

[90quattrocoupe]

These test were done by a friend of mine. If you have any questions, don't ask me, as I will not know. The equipment used here is pretty good and the testing is better than any others I have seen by anyone else. So this may answer some of your questions.

This is the reason I only use Samsung 25Rs. You can't seem to get VTC5s any more and the mAh on VTCs4s is only 2100, VTC3s even lower. The Samsungs can be hard for less money.




Battery Load Testing
This a start of load testing of some of the popular high current batteries. The batteries tested so far are all new 18650 and conditioned, with the exception of the Sony VTC5.
A series a tests will be performed on the batteries that are tailored toward the way it is used in vape gear.

The equipment used is a Maynuo Electronic load, connected to a PC. The PC controls the electronic load and logs the data from the tests performed. I built the battery rig, which incorporates small fans to pull heat from the battery if needed at high current drains. It is also used for after cooling to help bring the battery back to normal state and ready for charging.



This first test places the battery under a constant current load, but pulsed for 4 seconds on, and 5 seconds off. This cycle continues until the battery reaches a 2.5 volt cutoff.
Batteries tested:
Sony US18650VTC5
Samsung INR18650-25R 2500 mAh
LG - 18650HE2 2500 mAh
Efest 18650 (Purple 35A)
MXJO 18650 2500 mAh
SubOhmCell 35A 2800 mAh







Of note is the SubOhmCell 18650. This battery runs hot. Doing a 30 amp discharge test was very iffy. Also, this battery is very slow to recharge.

Since mech mods do not run at constant current, the next set of test will be with a constant resistance, but pulsed for X amount of cycles.

.4 Ohm Load Test.
This test loads the battery at .4 ohms for 4 seconds on, and 4 seconds off. It is run for about a total period of 13 minutes.
The actual data numbers are shown for the Samsung-25R battery. at this load, all batteries performed very close, all within .1 volts.
I didnt run the batteries down to its cutoff, as I dont think anyone would when actually vaping.







Here are the data numbers from the .3 ohm test. Although the chart makes some batteries look bad, I'd say there is no winner. They all perform very close. If another battery was used, or different charger used, that battery could easily be higher than all the rest.







So, given the test process that is closer to to way you vape, all of these higher current batteries will perform well. But at very low ohm builds, the more influence the mod and atty will have. A mod/atty with a .1 volt loss, can lose 20 watts of power.

 

[18650battery]

Very professional

 

[Ryedan]

Thank you @90quattrocoupe, that is fascinating.

I know you can't answer questions so this is more of a comment rather than that. It would be very interesting to know about battery temperatures at the higher drain rates and/or which had to have cooling and how much.

 

[90quattrocoupe]

^^^ That is interesting. The one problem I see is that is would require more test equipment and you would have to replace the small cooling system he is presently using. Plus you would have hot batteries to contend with. I don't know if I would want to handle hot batteries or for that matter, be anywhere near them. Depending upon the battery manufacturer, there is no data out there for knowing at what temperature batteries would fail. This could be a safety issue for him. He did note the problem with the SubOhm cell.

Over the last couple of years, my friend has provided a lot of data on mod and battery testing. He has gone above and beyond providing the funds and time needed to provide data to us vapers, not guesses. He is the only person I have seen do this type of mod and battery testing, and is pretty unbiased in his testing.

I would not want for him to subject himself to a possible unsafe environment.

 

[Ryedan]

I would not want for him to subject himself to a possible unsafe environment.

I understand and completely agree

Please pass on that I really appreciate him doing this stuff and sharing the data with us

 

[BoomStick]

The temperature at which specific materials start to break down is known. Manufacturer is irrelevant.
Using cooling fans to regulate cell temp greatly affects performance and provides conditions that are completely different than the conditions that are present when actually using the batteries in a mod. Auxiliary cooling may make things safer for the tester, but it skews any performance or safety data that is collected.
The data collected is certainly worthy of consideration, but the difference in conditions between the test and actual use is pretty drastic and must be noted.