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Button on Praxis Getting Hot

I have a Praxis clone and the button on it seems to get warm/hot depending on how much I vape on it. Also I've had issues where the body around the button gets warmer/hot too, especially near the back of the button. I've disassembled it, and I've found that there were scorch marks both on the button and the negative end of the button. I've cleaned everything with some rubbing alcohol, and I picked off a lot of the scorch marks on the battery and the button but I'm still getting some issues. Anyone out there who can help me out?

The mod I'm using:
http://brokevapers.com/praxis-mechanical-mod-clone/
 

State O' Flux

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I'll tell you the exact same thing I just told someone else...

You have a continuity issue with your clone mech switch. When the mod heats up, particularly in the switch assembly, it's a indication that you have a substantial resistance, causing a "Joule heating" condition. This resistance can come from a small contact surface area, metals with high resistance, a general sloppy fit... or any/all combined.

If you have a DMM, you can test the mod for resistance... should be zero Ω. If you have an inline volt meter, you can test for voltage drop.

If you can't sort it out, or it seems uncorrectable, I would suggest raising the atomizer resistance a few tenths of an ohm at a time, until the switch cools down.
 

Eric DeCastro

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I work in electronics and what @State O' Flux had said is correct. if your build is lets say .2 ohms and there is dirt on the contacts that will disrupt the continuity of the mod anywhere like between tubes or in the switch that is like .3ohms it will glow just like your coil. so if you are using really low resistance make sure your connections are solid. use a graphite pencil and run it over all your threads and make sure they are clean before you do it.
 

Warhawk-AVG

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You can also try and use some 800-2000 grit sandpaper (or 0000 steel wool) to clean off the carbon/high resistance deposits

Corrosion on those connections also cause high resistance contact points...current + resistance = heat

Might also try some NO-OX-ID, help prevent corrosion on non-aluminum threads, is electrically conductive and might help
 

Robert B

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The authentic uses a brass hybrid cap, and have no hot button problems that I have heard of. (I know mine doesn't) This clone from Fasttech is more like the authentic, and for all I know, may be the authentic since Praxis has no "made in the usa" etchings on it, and don't claim they are.

Don't rule out this Smpl mod either. I own this mod and it is fantastic. I have the authentic on it's way and will be comparing the two. I love both of these since the only thing you have to make sure about is the contact pin protrudes out of the 510 on the atty so it doesn't short.
 

Surgikill

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I have this same problem. I just fixed it by taking the button apart and snipping about half a turn off the spring. As the insulator pushes down the spring tends to bunch upp creating a weak connection with the negative terminal. This leads to increased resistance. Happy vaping.
 

Robert B

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I have this same problem. I just fixed it by taking the button apart and snipping about half a turn off the spring. As the insulator pushes down the spring tends to bunch upp creating a weak connection with the negative terminal. This leads to increased resistance. Happy vaping.
You don't have this problem with the authentic Praxis since the spring is a flat type spring vs a wire spring.

Praxis.jpg
 

Surgikill

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You can probably find that spring on eBay.
 

Robert B

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You can probably find that spring on eBay.
Wonder what you call this type of spring. ribbon spring, flat spring? no idea. Would help to know the nomenclature to search.

***edit***
That didn't take long. It looks like they are called "Wave Springs".... Now to find the correct wave spring !!
This spring is .48" OD(housing), .395 ID(shaft), travel is about .25"
 
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Panther1911

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has anyone came across a magnet upgrade for this mod?
 

Panther1911

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Wonder what you call this type of spring. ribbon spring, flat spring? no idea. Would help to know the nomenclature to search.

***edit***
That didn't take long. It looks like they are called "Wave Springs".... Now to find the correct wave spring !!
This spring is .48" OD(housing), .395 ID(shaft), travel is about .25"
scroll down to high-load compression spring, see if one meets the specs

http://www.mcmaster.com/#wave-springs/=vvpvsf
 

Surgikill

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Pretty sure you could retro fit some magnets to this
 

Robert B

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I just ordered a 3 pack of those springs, so we will see. I have a clone praxis as well as an authentic to compare and test. Hopefully they will be strong enough
 

Surgikill

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I just ordered a 3 pack of those springs, so we will see. I have a clone praxis as well as an authentic to compare and test. Hopefully they will be strong enough
Let me know how it works. I'm still having trouble with mine firing.
 

Robert B

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Good news and bad news. Good news is the spring is the correct size. Bad news is the spring is way too stiff. McMaster's website is easy to use, except after you order, they say "shipping will be added on when it ships". Before I hit the order button I thought, how much could it possibly cost to ship 3 tiny springs? was thinking 80cents and a bubble pack. I get the invoice emailed to me and they charged 7.71 to ship. It came UPS in a big box.

Anyway, I believe the correct springs would be the second one up from the one highlighted. The one with the 5lb load. I might try contacting Smalley Wave Springs and see if we can get some samples instead of paying another 16 bucks for something that doesn't work.

wavespring1.jpg
wavespring2.jpg
 

Surgikill

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Good stuff. That shipping is crazy. I only use McMaster for big orders. I think a 2lb spring would be sufficient. Maybe even 1 or 1.5.
 

Robert B

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Good stuff. That shipping is crazy. I only use McMaster for big orders. I think a 2lb spring would be sufficient. Maybe even 1 or 1.5.
I talked to an engineer over at Smalley. I told him McMaster's was raping me for samples, so he's sending me some free !! Should have the lower tension springs in a couple days. It may be the 5lb spring that Praxis actually uses.
 

Surgikill

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I talked to an engineer over at Smalley. I told McMaster's was raping me for samples, so he's sending me some free !! Should have the lower tension springs in a couple days.
Sweet!
 

Robert B

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It looks like the 5lb tension spring is the right one. I received a 5lb and 10lb sample from Smalley Steel Ring Corp.
McMaster pn# 1561T17
Smalley pn# CS050-L2

Installed it on a Brass Praxis clone, and it seems to work smoother than the round wire coiled spring without being overly stiff. This may help solve the over heating button problem. The other thing that might help is the brass hybrid cap vs the steel hybrid cap.

Praxis spring.jpg
 

Panther1911

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thanks for sharing!
 

Surgikill

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I have a brass hybrid cap on mine. I also found cleaning my coil helped a lot.
 

Panther1911

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On a side note: i am LOVING my derringer clone on my praxis clone.
 

Robert B

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On a side note: i am LOVING my derringer clone on my praxis clone.
The derringer is such a simple atty and easy to clone well. Praxis screwed themselves by releasing so few before the attack of the clones. Doesn't make any sense to buy an authentic anymore since the clones are 1/10th the price. Praxis could have sold 10 times the number of authentics had they ramped up prior to release.
 

Panther1911

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after using the clone i tried to buy an authentic for a rdna40 i have coming soon, only ones i could find were on ebay....not taking a chance getting ripped off......so i bought another clone
 
Hi, just bought the Praxis Clone from Infinite in Stainless steel. How do you get the rubber piece off the button? Do you just pry it off?
 

Surgikill

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Well my mod has stopped firing so I'm trying to find out why.
 
Well my mod has stopped firing so I'm trying to find out why.

Your button may have misaligned form the delrin piece, try to take the button out and use said tutorial above to disassemble it. I bought the spring also mentioned above and it fixed my "hot button " issue, well it at least takes much longer to get hot. That's taking into consideration the RDA heat transferring to the mod then to the button. It still gets hot but that's it.
I bought a general clone and had to return it because the craftsmanship was terrible, I returned it and bought an Infinite Praxis clone and it is definitely higher quality, and with the new spring it's damn near perfect.
 

Surgikill

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Your button may have misaligned form the delrin piece, try to take the button out and use said tutorial above to disassemble it. I bought the spring also mentioned above and it fixed my "hot button " issue, well it at least takes much longer to get hot. That's taking into consideration the RDA heat transferring to the mod then to the button. It still gets hot but that's it.
I bought a general clone and had to return it because the craftsmanship was terrible, I returned it and bought an Infinite Praxis clone and it is definitely higher quality, and with the new spring it's damn near perfect.


Note to self, I am an idiot. My coil had so much built up shit on it that it could have passed for a cesspool. New coil and it's hitting like a train again.
 

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