Can not get 316L to work in tc on all 3 DNA200's.

[conanthewarrior]

Your fine. I just meant if it's intermittent then a problem going aways doesn't mean the change is what fixed it.

A CVS isn't some mysterious coded file. It's a table with 8 points. You can make your own. Seems a lot of folks think a file works or doesn't. It's a TCR table. Either the TCR is correct for your wire or it isn't.

SS has a very narrow range of change. Very small changes matter. And then, you have to be positive your wire is what they say it is. And yes 316 could be 317, and alloys may have minor differences... Big picture isn't going to make a huge difference. So you can increase or decrease TCR if you like.

Also, just understand... Someone saying it works better, doesn't mean it's accurate. They might like it hotter, but it doesn't mean it's accurate. So if steam engine give the TCR for 317, then that is the TCR for 317. If that TCR doesn't work, then it isn't 317. Does that make sense.

Also, all you have to do is plug your mod in with atomizer and press the atomizer analyzer button on the profile page. When mine is good, ohm jump 1 or 2 thousands at the most. When it's bad, it can be hundreds. And if your ohms are jumping around by the hundreds, no TCR is going to be right. All connections MUST be tight and solid to use SS in TC with such a narrow range of operation.

That is very true points you have raised. BTW, I wasn't trying to be nasty or anything in my previous comments, as I looked and they could seem a bit sharp, so I apologize if you thought I was being abrupt or anything .

Yeah it does make sense. I bought the current 316L SS I have from a craft store, NOT a vape store, 26 Gauge SS316L, I guessed it was all the same-but as you mention,it could be different alloys affecting it.

I have made sure to save the original CSV that come with the efusion, as I have ordered some from crazy wire which is intended for vaping.

I must add-I have found a CSV that works 'better'. I understand what you are saying some are hotter than others as its just a table with 8 point of refference-now the one provided yesterday WORKED, but was a much hotter vape, and caused slightly dry hits.

I did some searching, and found a group called DNA themes. It had a mini guide for SS, with a new CSV. This one if even closer to my NI200 and TI temp settings(I want them to be the same across the board if that is possible-so 220C IS 220C ETC if you get what I mean?

The one I have now still produces plently of vapour, but seems 'softer'. It is also recommended to be used with the preheat set to 0 S, with no preheat power and minimum punch, as SS gets to temp very quickly.

I have only loaded it onto one device-but I need to experiment today to find which is the 'best' for me. I have a feeling this one could quite well be-plumes of vapour, temperature seems bang on, and NO dry hits.

Again-I am saving all the CSV's with different names, as when I get the SS from crazy wire actually made for vaping-maybe the original and steam engine profiled will work, instead of just dropping straight to 4 watts.

Anyone who wants to take this new CSV for a spin let me know and I will either link it, or PM me you email and I will gladly send it.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK I have found that the Efusion TI setting is also much better and inline with my NI200 settings-so all wires at the same temp I.E 230C seem to be the same temperature.

So, new CSV from a facebook group I found, DNA themes, and the Evolv created TI CSV for TI works much better-before I had to use 25W with my haze tank and a 0.4 single coil, otherwise there would be hardly any vapour produced, but it would lead to dry hits, this Evolv created CSV works with the same coil at 20 W, and is not giving dry hits.

This it what I love about the DNA200-tuning it to find YOUR perfect vape. I am going to set up all three with the same profiles for TI and SS316L for now-But a lot of people were having trouble with the Evolv created Efusion 316L profile on the evolv forums, so I think that one might be off as its not just me with the issue.

I will keep this open as I have some 317L and 304 on the way-I will update if the Evolv profiles work well and produce vapour, or if they do not, then the hunt begins for a good profile, that provides constistent temp with those wires as well.

I want all wires to be as close as possible, so 220C is 220C wether its NI200, TI, and all types of SS. I may even try some funky wire like NIcr8020, but TC would not work with that would it seeing as it is a type of nichrome, or would it? I am not sure if it has a completely flat curve like kanthal or not if I am honest with you all.

I am pretty new to using SS, I only ever used NI200 and TI before, but seeing as I can use different wire types I am trying different ones. I like SS as I do not have to be worried I accidently use a TI build in power mode, I have so many tanks and drippers its hard to keep track now.

Thanks everyone for your help, Conan.

 

[conanthewarrior]

This is the profile I am using. Copied from Jaquith on the DNA forum... he used 24ga 316L from UD when creating it. It very much corrects the need to max out the temp to get a worthwhile vape. It operates down in the normal ranges (and sometimes below). http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv4

MikeSully, I have found a profile from a DNA200 themes group that included a custom CSV file-it is less powerful than yours but in a good way, like vapour production is there and temp seems the same as my NI200 and TI settings, if you want to try it just ask and I will email you it, or if many people want it I will link the file. It needs to be used with a preheat of 1,punch of 1, and 0S preheat as TI and SS heats up so quickly, the preheat actually makes the curve in escribe not smooth when vaping-set to this it is a very smooth curve whilst vaping, and I have now loaded this version onto all 3 of my DNA200's for SS316L, but I have saved all the others just in case the crazy wire works with the OG settings.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Ok my Xcube 2 works with the correct coefficient and seems the temp is correct, but all 3 of my DNA200's now have a few CSV's that work well. I recommend either mike sully's if you like a slightly more powerful vape, or the one I found today if you want something that is dead on with your other TC profiles regarding temp.

Personal preference, but those are the two that I think work the best-as long as you redrip you will not get a dry hit with mike sullys link under 230C, and can let the cotton get quite dry, the one I am now using the cotton can get completely dry without burning but still produces.

So, use either according to your taste , or the TCR setting.

I have also changed from the steam engine file to the Evolv created efusion file for TI-I have just lowered the preheat from 150W to 60W and its lovely and smooth.

 

[Powerman]

So the thing is I think we, maybe just me, are not used to what temp is. With more air, if a wire is 400F, the vape seems very cold. I mentioned Crown cause it raised problems. They say it's 316, but using that TCR it's very cold. So we use 304. I've done some burn tests and think it's relatively accurate.

So now, I got some 430 from crazy wire. I belive them to say it's 430. I set up my file... It's cold. I can't get it to hit. I have preheat at 120,hard for 1.5 and temp at 550. No hit, no heat, and I'm at a loss. I know how to juke ohms. Over ride to shift the scale. Keep turning up power and heat. If it is accurate, then it's much hotter than I intend. Past the point of what TC is for. Lower Temps to prevent possible formation of bad stuff at high Temps of full power. So I'm at a bit of a loss

 

[conanthewarrior]

So the thing is I think we, maybe just me, are not used to what temp is. With more air, if a wire is 400F, the vape seems very cold. I mentioned Crown cause it raised problems. They say it's 316, but using that TCR it's very cold. So we use 304. I've done some burn tests and think it's relatively accurate.

So now, I got some 430 from crazy wire. I belive them to say it's 430. I set up my file... It's cold. I can't get it to hit. I have preheat at 120,hard for 1.5 and temp at 550. No hit, no heat, and I'm at a loss. I know how to juke ohms. Over ride to shift the scale. Keep turning up power and heat. If it is accurate, then it's much hotter than I intend. Past the point of what TC is for. Lower Temps to prevent possible formation of bad stuff at high Temps of full power. So I'm at a bit of a loss

Ahh I will be honest-if you are using a tank with mega airflow, it WILL seem pretty cool across the temp with only a minor change. However-if you use a tank such as an old SMOK RSBT2 or a billow, or a dripper with not much airflow-there is a very distinct difference between temperatures.

I am using the tanks with massive airlow-as I got about 6 or 7 new tanks in the past 2 weeks and want to test them all, but mostly even shut off nearly entirely is more than enough for me, I like a semi restrictive lung hit due to my style of vaping, I.E lower watts, I don't need huge airflow and find it detracts from the flavour.

 

[Powerman]

Yep, all that. More air flow needs more power. I'm doing more now than my Crown which can handle a lot. Part of it is just more coil. Dual 24g, with 9 wraps coming out at 0.17 ohm. It produces plenty of vapor, just different trying to dial it in. I'll have to play with preheat more. Next I'm trying 27g twisted so it will be more.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Ok after testing, the CSV I found today is a bit less harsh-but aneamic. I think for now, the link in this thread is the closest I am getting-TC works, just above 230C I get burn't cotton. No problem if I remember to redrip all the time-and when I have the wire from crazy wire, it may well work with the Evolv or steam engine CSV.

It also DOES work if I set the coefficient to 0.008500, but it goes far too high at higher temps and results in burn't hits. I suspect my wire to be a bit of a strange alloy, in a few days we will find out. Glad how easy it is to change yout CSV files or your Coefiicient.

I will admit I can not make my own curves for the DNA 200-I know how to move it to change the curve, but don't know where to set it-so that's why I am using preset .CSV's.

But seeing as both a Evolv SS316L and a steam engine 316L version does not work-I suspect it may not be completely 316L wire.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Hi there-thank you, I tried these exact settings from steam engine-unfortunately it does not work for me, like many others on the Evolv forums. I have found a CSV that does work well though and the issue is now solved .

I think it is down to the alloy my wire is made of, and others experiencing the problem have a similar alloy-if I use those settings, it drops to 3-5 W immediately and outputs no vapour .(All 3 DNA200's, even Evolvs settings for 316L did not work with the efusion. I have saved them though so when I hopefully have the correct alloy-it will work. Although it works perfectly now, if there is a alloy change I may need to change the CSV file .

 

[conanthewarrior]

Here is a image of the nice curve I am getting with 316L and the profile provided by Mikesully, and credit to the original creator. It works best with preheat-but I turned that off too show how nice and smooth the curve is .

As you can see nice and smooth for SS. With preaheat and punch on, it works near perfectly. Just wanted to show how nice this one seems to work.

EDIT: It did not fully reach 220C as I was using a lower wattage than usual to show the curve. Its the second red line in case you didn't know.

 

[Powerman]

The curve you get from steam engine is 8 points. That may be plenty, who knows. A TCR is just a constant. Your 85... Resistance will rise 0.00085 ohms for every 1 degree Celsius rise in temp. Completely linear. To actually test a wire, you would have to measure every degree and ohms to see that it is completely accurate. It may not be, but close enough.

If you input a TCR, you see its just one point and a straight line. You can add points. On the CVS, you can add, or even move points on the curve. I double my points by splitting them. But I can't tell you if it's better. And you can't do that for every profile because you will quickly run out of memory. I do that for my 2 main wires.

So again, you can move and juke stuff however you want, but that doesn't mean it's accurate. So for us, with cooler anemic vape... You would move points up or put in a higher TCR. Meaning it takes a higher resistance rise to get to a temp. You could move points up to give more power at a part of the curve.

However, if the wire is right, and the TCR is right, then all we are doing is saying we want 450F, but in reality it could be 600F. All good if it gives you the vape you want, and no burnt hits/too much for coil and wick.... But it isn't accurate TC. At that point we might as well just stick to power and let it rip.

At this point, regardless of accuracy, I still like TC. It is consistent and you have more control over beginning middle and end of pull. And it does provide more over power/burnt hit protection than power alone.

 

[conanthewarrior]

The curve you get from steam engine is 8 points. That may be plenty, who knows. A TCR is just a constant. Your 85... Resistance will rise 0.00085 ohms for every 1 degree Celsius rise in temp. Completely linear. To actually test a wire, you would have to measure every degree and ohms to see that it is completely accurate. It may not be, but close enough.

If you input a TCR, you see its just one point and a straight line. You can add points. On the CVS, you can add, or even move points on the curve. I double my points by splitting them. But I can't tell you if it's better. And you can't do that for every profile because you will quickly run out of memory. I do that for my 2 main wires.

So again, you can move and juke stuff however you want, but that doesn't mean it's accurate. So for us, with cooler anemic vape... You would move points up or put in a higher TCR. Meaning it takes a higher resistance rise to get to a temp. You could move points up to give more power at a part of the curve.

However, if the wire is right, and the TCR is right, then all we are doing is saying we want 450F, but in reality it could be 600F. All good if it gives you the vape you want, and no burnt hits/too much for coil and wick.... But it isn't accurate TC. At that point we might as well just stick to power and let it rip.

At this point, regardless of accuracy, I still like TC. It is consistent and you have more control over beginning middle and end of pull. And it does provide more over power/burnt hit protection than power alone.

I do agree with your above points. If I am honest, I find titanium to be my favourite wire to work with, and this has a nice smooth curve in Escribe and seems to be at the correct temp. I will have to get a heat sensing gun to test though, that is one thing that is on my soon to buy list.

I'l be honest-I like SS in the way that it can be used in both power mode and TC, but it seems NI200 and TI are much more accurate at the moment. Maybe in the future we will have much more accurate SS control-either on the DNA200 via updates allowing more points of reference for the increase in resistance according to the rise in temperature, or another board entierely.

I do Find my DNA200 devices offer the smoothest TC experience possible.

I DO still use kanthal, and love good old kanthal, and regular power mode. But I see it as with the DNA200, and its potential for accuracy-I will use it in TC mode. My other TC mods I use in power and occasional TC, but the SIG150TC and the IPV 3 LI also offer a very good TC experience at a lot less money.

But do I regret the DNA200's? Hell no-I love them and the ability to change almost everything to get the vape YOU personally find perfect. I vape in the 15-40W area, if I feel mad 60-80W with the correct build, but that is rare.

I do not see the point of using a TC device at silly watts when it will hit TC at a much, much lower level. I also enjoy the preheat feature-with NI200 and TI the curve is basically a dead straight line.

I understand where you say it may not be accurate, thats why I want a heat sensing gun-I know about being able to move points around, but you mention memory? My Efusion come preloaded with 8 different profiles-is there a memory limit to the device then so you can not use 8 points of reference across all 8 profiles? I am sure mine come with the preset points of reference-in fact I double checked with evolv, evolv provided the profiles for the Efusion.

But, it is my most enjoyable vape that seems to be the most accurate-and that I am more than happy with .(Although my Yihi equipped devices also do a pretty good job at TC, the only 'bad' one I would say is the Xcube 2.)

 

[Powerman]

I don't know the total amount of memory. I built some profiles with a bunch of points. When I went to upload, said not enough memory. So I had to keep cutting back and cutting back till I could upload what I wanted. I have a power mode and turn TC off others. I think you can load 8 profiles with 8 points. But it seems like64 points is it. You have to take some to give some. I have 2 profiles with double points. 2 profiles with mello preheat and regular CVS. And that's it for TC

 

[conanthewarrior]

I don't know the total amount of memory. I built some profiles with a bunch of points. When I went to upload, said not enough memory. So I had to keep cutting back and cutting back till I could upload what I wanted. I have a power mode and turn TC off others. I think you can load 8 profiles with 8 points. But it seems like64 points is it. You have to take some to give some. I have 2 profiles with double points. 2 profiles with mello preheat and regular CVS. And that's it for TC

Ahh fair enough. I will see if I come across that-I have yet too, but I am not doubting what you are saying. If/when I come across it I will let you know.

Another question here-on the theme screen, I notice a "kanthal max power setting". I have created a profile for kanthal-uploaded the kanthal CSV, turned off TC, and thought that was it. But I have not been able to come across this screen during use on any of my devices-how do I access that mode?

 

[MrScaryZ]

Ahh fair enough. I will see if I come across that-I have yet too, but I am not doubting what you are saying. If/when I come across it I will let you know.

Another question here-on the theme screen, I notice a "kanthal max power setting". I have created a profile for kanthal-uploaded the kanthal CSV, turned off TC, and thought that was it. But I have not been able to come across this screen during use on any of my devices-how do I access that mode?

You do not needs to upload CSV file for kanthal man you seem to still be struggling with understanding TC.. And if you did upload the kanthal CSV you are just eating up memory spance on your DNA 200.. kanthal will not work at all with the current chipsets

 

[conanthewarrior]

You do not needs to upload CSV file for kanthal man you seem to still be struggling with understanding TC.. And if you did upload the kanthal CSV you are just eating up memory spance on your DNA 200.. kanthal will not work at all with the current chipsets

Ahh fair enough mate. I will take off the kanthal profile CSV then. I understood TC would not work with kanthal, but saw there was kanthal CSV's so assumed you needed to load them on to use it lol.

So I just keep the profile blank, and turn the TC off to run a kanthal profile?

I will remove the CSV's now if they are doing nothing at all, no point having them on there-but I will keep a profile for Kanthal. (Unless this is also unnecessary, then I wont)

I do understand how TC works(It reads the cold resistance, and as temp increases so does the resistance of the wire, allowing the mod to estimate the temperature the coil is at by the increase in resistance. I do not know how the calculation is done however), and have learnt quite a lot-but I am brain damaged so do get confused, so this type of information is helpful to me.

Just as I saw the CSV, I thought it was necessary.

I've also only gone TC the past 3 months or so-I owned TC mods before but was using it wrong. Now I know how to use it I love it, and I wanted the DNA200's for the customization options and being able to run multiple wire types.

Also-you mentioned memory, is it good to keep enough free then? Like my kanthal profile is not needed? Could I just use the NI200 profile and it will detect it is not a TC coil?

Thanks for your help

 

[conanthewarrior]

Answered my own question-even escribe says with preheat IF a temperature controlled atomiser is connected.

I am using Kanthal on the standard profile it comes with, NI200. It automatically shuts off TC and works how it should.

Time to do some tidying of my DNA200's then if there is no need for a kanthal profile lol!

 

[MrScaryZ]

Answered my own question-even escribe says with preheat IF a temperature controlled atomiser is connected.

I am using Kanthal on the standard profile it comes with, NI200. It automatically shuts off TC and works how it should.

Time to do some tidying of my DNA200's then if there is no need for a kanthal profile lol!

I wish kanthal worked .. yeah well I will send mine over to you so you can clean mine after you are done

 

[conanthewarrior]

I wish kanthal worked .. yeah well I will send mine over to you so you can clean mine after you are done

Haha yeah me too, unfortunately I do not see that anytime soon unless they figure out another way to do TC.

So-should I keep a kanthal profile with no CSV, just the standard evolv NI200 profile and use that, or should I just use my NI200 profile to save space? As it senses its not a suitable wire so TC shuts off straight away, I am struggling to see a reason to keep a kanthal profile if I am honest, and now understand why my Efusion come with TI, all types of SS, NI200, but no kanthal for power mode.(I knew kanthal did not work in TC mode, but I thought you had to have a kanthal profile and CSV just because they was available)

To use it in power mode-do I essentially do nothing, or is it best to have a profile with no CSV and temp control set to off?

And I will gladly clean them of the chips for you lol

Thanks man.

 

[MrScaryZ]

use all 8 profiles if you need to man the way I remember what each is .. I make a custom screen (image)for every profile so I know what da fuck it is when not hooked up to escribe

 

[MrScaryZ]

Conan,

Someone check me here, something I gleaned from the Busardo DNA Trilogy...

The "Kanthal Max" is a system wide parameter setting to limit power in case you get kicked out of TC with a build that would fry at higher wattages.

You got it you win the "Local DNA 200 expert leve certification"

 

[conanthewarrior]

Conan,

Someone check me here, something I gleaned from the Busardo DNA Trilogy...

The "Kanthal Max" is a system wide parameter setting to limit power in case you get kicked out of TC with a build that would fry at higher wattages.

Ahh, I get what its for now. As I had never seen it -I wondered where the hell it was lol. Thanks man.

 

[dj_g]

I'm interested. I'll pm you my email. TY

Also interested I'll pm too

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[dj_g]

You can try it mate, PM me your email and I will send it to you-I am not sure which is better I need to do some testing between the two, but I will send it for you to test.

You mind if I pm you too so I can try it? I've been struggling for months

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[conanthewarrior]

You mind if I pm you too so I can try it? I've been struggling for months

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Hi mate.

The best CSV I have found now is actually the one for SS 316 provided by Evolv, that comes with the SP3 update.

It beats every CSV I have, and temperature is very stable once reached, whereas before it looked like a jagged mess on the graph. Now, there is a smooth line until temperature is hit, then a nice, flat and stable line.

Have you updated to the newest version of Escribe and installed SP3 to your DNA200? It really makes SS work, and makes me feel like my DNA devices are worth every penny now-the latest is a DNA75 and this works very nicely too.

Unfortunately, my mac failed a few months ago, and I lost everything, and now I have to run windows via virtual box instead of bootcamp, so I only have CSV's from steam engine and the Evolv standard ones.

I only use the SS 316 profile from Evolv though as it works so well. What type of coils are you trying to use as I may be able to help there? Sorry I can't provide the Mike Sully CSV, but none of my devices have it on there anymore due to the standard one working so much better.

 

[arby]

I don't mean to necro a dead thread but I tried to DL that file Mike posted and the file is missing any values in it for me. Does anyone have these values?

 

[MannyScoot]

316L is working on my Triade

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[conanthewarrior]

I don't mean to necro a dead thread but I tried to DL that file Mike posted and the file is missing any values in it for me. Does anyone have these values?

Hi mate.

That file was good at a time-but the profile provided by Evolv I feel really stops it being needed. What is happening when you try to use SS 316/316L in temp mode?

 

[lordmage]

they may not be needed but i uploaded copies of some of the csv i have gathered to me google drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Q-LBAAD5FcNi1heGdUSEtDQms

which they are not hard to edit either in notepad or in escribe

 

[conanthewarrior]

they may not be needed but i uploaded copies of some of the csv i have gathered to me google drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Q-LBAAD5FcNi1heGdUSEtDQms

which they are not hard to edit either in notepad or in escribe

Thank you . I lost my CSV's when I had to replace the Hard drive on my mac, and as the CSV was not on any of my devices, lost a fair few.

I find the standard Escribe SS 316 profile works well enough for me, but it is always handy to have others to test out. Before SP3, I used the Jaquith CSV I believe, which worked the best for me.

Do you use the standard Evolv SS 316 profile, or different? Also, on the files you shared, I recognise the first is from steam engine, where are the others from?

 

[lordmage]

the ones in the UD folder i found on a UD site. Also got the Jaquith Files from the man himself thur the evolve forums, for me when i use SS316 TC i use the 3.25. as i was told the higher the version number the hotter he made it and his profiles are designed with no preheat,no punch in mind. it has been a while but when i have time i am going to test the sp3 profiles.

the rest either thur a facebook group or some other place hold on for a sec and i will edit in the points for reference

google point for battery and other profiles
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0uqr_CFVmx6bHJNSnNVZ0VGOXc

Facebook group that links to above
https://www.facebook.com/groups/dna200themes/

also added my current homemade theme to a theme folder in my csv link share

 

[conanthewarrior]

the ones in the UD folder i found on a UD site. Also got the Jaquith Files from the man himself thur the evolve forums, for me when i use SS316 TC i use the 3.25. as i was told the higher the version number the hotter he made it and his profiles are designed with no preheat,no punch in mind. it has been a while but when i have time i am going to test the sp3 profiles.

the rest either thur a facebook group or some other place hold on for a sec and i will edit in the points for reference

google point for battery and other profiles
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0uqr_CFVmx6bHJNSnNVZ0VGOXc

Facebook group that links to above
https://www.facebook.com/groups/dna200themes/

also added my current homemade theme to a theme folder in my csv link share

Doh! I didn't notice they was in a folder named UD lol.

I found the Jaquith profiles to be very good, but since the SP3 profile I have used that exclusively, as it just seems to work each time, before it seemed my DNA200's would pick and choose if they would work or not, sometimes they would recognise the wire as SS316, other times they would get kicked into power mode.

The Battery profiles you have are very handy indeed! I use LG HE4's in my Reuleaux, will have to give the profile a try to see if it makes the battery meter any more accurate.

Where do you set your soft cell cut off with 18650's? It has been a while since I checked on my 18650 DNA200's, but know on my DNA75 I have it set at 2.75V.

 

[lordmage]

2.75 is the cutoff for lipo packs , in my case. i set it to 3.09 to maintain a better battery health. just to be clear nothing i posted is mine originally most came from others. beside the theme posted in my google drive link under theme. everything else is a collection of others work found thur the facebook group , evolve forums at one point or other

the battery profiles were compiled by the facebook group and i am simply sharing the link to them

 

[conanthewarrior]

2.75 is the cutoff for lipo packs , in my case. i set it to 3.09 to maintain a better battery health. just to be clear nothing i posted is mine originally most came from others. beside the theme posted in my google drive link under theme. everything else is a collection of others work found thur the facebook group , evolve forums at one point or other

the battery profiles were compiled by the facebook group and i am simply sharing the link to them

Ok, I think I have mine set to 3.09V on my Li-Po packs too, but understand my 25R's and HE4's are fine down to 2.5V, which is why I use the standard 2.75V on the DNA75.

I think it is a good thing you have collected these things together and are sharing them, they will be helpful to many people and I thank you for sharing them.