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mike-c

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Ok so, I've been reading a bunch of posts and watching/reading reviews praising the DNA chips out there.

I have a GI2 100watt box that I absolutely love, but really don't want to shell out that much money for a 100 watt box again. I've started too get really interested in the DNA technology, specifically the temperature control side of it. However, being used to the heat from 50-70watts on a .20-.27 ohm kanthol macro coil, can I really get that from a temp controlled nickel set of coils? I suppose I could step up the pg in my mix to get a little better throat hit at lower heat but will that be enough? I'm sort of a flavor chaser so I'm in between a 50/50 to a 70vg/30pg mix as it is now.

Let me hear from you guys and gals. What is your favorite DNA mod? What rda do you enjoy the most on that device? What kind of builds are you doing with the nickel? Can you even get it in guages to compare with 24 and 22 awg kanthol?

School me on what you like. I'm going to get one chance this year at a kick ass mod/rda rig and i think i might be leaning tward DNA. Is this the right step for me? Would I be better off getting a simpler 100-150watt box?
 

Scuba-Matt

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If you like a displayed read out with power and reliability, find something with the YiHi SX350 board in it.
 

mike-c

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Well I pretty much get that with my GI2. It has the largest "read out" on the market still yet. It also has power. 100watts of power, which is more than enough.

Im curious about temperature control. Do users get the same heat using nickel wire and temp control that I like from a .25 ohm kanthol build? If so how, and which set up do they prefer?
 

BoomStick

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Just thinking out loud here, but for an experienced builder that can do a build and apply the power required to achieve the level of performance, which includes the amount of heat, that they want, I see temp control as only being useful for ensuring you don't vape your wick dry and get a dry/burnt hit. Maybe I'm overlooking some other benefit.
 

mike-c

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That's really what I'm interested in. I was wondering if I can still get the heat without burning my wick up. See I have a very hectic life with work and 4 kids and sometimes don't have the presence of mind to remember to drip exactly when needed. Next thing ya know, I pick up my mod and get choked out on a high wattage dry burn. Lol I really hate that, but love the heat and flavor I get when I can just sit, relax, and vape.
 

BoomStick

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I've seen dna40 users say that if they set the temp right, they can hit their rda until it's completely dry and never get a burnt hit. The control kicks in and simply won't let the coil get hot enough to burn cotton. That alone sounds pretty cool. The problem for me is really the 40w limit and the learning curve involved in using a completely different kind of wire that seems to require using completely different coil geometry. If a dna100 temp control chip is released, I'll consider it. Until then I'll just watch, wait and see. I know I haven't been very helpful, but...
Good luck.
 

mike-c

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Well, the misses gave me permission to pull the trigger on two high end box mods so I'm trying to learn more about the DNA setups before I decide which ones to buy. So far I haven't heard anything from DNA owners, but I know there are a few here in the underground. Thank you though!
 

BoomStick

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Have you considered something like a REO for an out and about rda that doesn't require actually dripping?
 

dre

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Ive built and have dna40 mods and the Simple answer a well set up dna40 RDA build will give the same warm vape kanthal can. I bitched at first it was to cool but after some trail and error I love it.
 

Bow2King

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i haven't had the chance to use the nickel wire but i am using the tempature coils from vapor shark because I'm waiting on some vapemail, but you can still get heat from them their .3ohm coils!!
 

mike-c

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Ok cool thanks guys. Also I've read that these types of mods can be finicky as far as what types of attys work well with them. Do you know of anything I should stay away from?
 

dre

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Only Atty is the lemo is kinda touchy everything has to be tight or the readings are off.
 

mike-c

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what do you mean by they don't work well @mike-c

Well I've read that DNA boxes have to have very good connection with atty's. That and wire connections in their posts have to be very tight and very stable or it will kick the chip out of temperature control mode. As soft as nickel is, I figured that certain atty's might present a problem.
 

driver379

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Only Atty is the lemo is kinda touchy everything has to be tight or the readings are off.
I haven't had any troubles with my LEMO it was that damned orchid.LOL
 

Niji

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I picked up a couple kepler copper heatsinks from FT and slapped one on my DNA 40. It's adjustable, so you can then fit atties without adjustable pins on it. Though I mostly did it to preserve an ultra expensive mod by keeping it cool and not screwing things into the connector over and over.

For me, the BIGGEST thing about the DNA 40 is I can FINALLY use stainless steel tanks!!! No dry burnt hit when it runs out cause you can't see your juice. The temp control kicks in and the vape just trickles off and you know it must be empty. No more ordering replacement glass, no more dry hits from SS, no more questionable cracking/leaching plastics, no more cutting up syringe barrels for better plastic!!

Now how do I convince them to make a temp control kick so I can convert all my mechs?
 

mike-c

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ok so it just kinda seems like atty's and the troubles with them are roughly as unique to each ans finger prints are to people. So I expect to have a sort of trial and error period with issues with them.

What do you all feel like is you personal favorite DNA mod though? I kinda have my eye on a green Hana DNA with dual 18650 batteries. Anyone have any bad experiences with these?
 

Niji

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I'm just using my vaporshark until the PVA-40 ships. Never looked at the Hanas seriously, ugly as heck IMO and not ergonomic. But really, a little box is a little box. Pick the one you like the color of best. :p It's never going to look as good as a custom patina on a copper or brass tube. What matters is the authentic chip inside, and that it's the new version with bug fixes.
 

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