Drip Box RDA Help

[Rangertrix]

I just received my Drip Box 2 today, and it won't squonk, lol. It apperasr as though the center pin on the factory supplied RDA has not been drilled all the way through.
When attempting to push a pice of kanthal through the center pin after removing it from the RDA, the wire will travel up the center pin deep enough that it is at the very end and stops. When blowing through the pin it is airtight.
Mt question is to anyone who has experience the Drip Box factory RDA. Is the pin drilled all the way through straight through, or is it drilled most of the way up it and then have a horizontal hole through it?
If it just drilled al the way straight through, I can just finish drilling the rest of the way. It only lacks less than a 1/16" of being all the way through.
Thanks.

 

[RCressler]

That's straight through. It's not an uncommon problem. Just drill it, but make sure you get the shavings all cleaned out.

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[Rangertrix]

I tried drilling it straight through and that didn't work either.
Because the rda has the decks that can be screwed out and replaced like a atomizer coil in a tank the bottom of the deck contacts the top of the pin as an electrical contact and because both are flat it won't allow the liquid to pass through.
I went ahead and drilled a horizontal hole through pin and that seems to be working just fine. I'm still curious what it looked like from factory though.

I believe I will still replace this factory rda with a better quality one though. It rather sucks. I knew that going in, but ordered it anyway.
I figured a regulated squonker for $26 couldn't be beat for a first timer.
I had actually just bought 4 Freakshow Minis about a week ago, only because I got them for $4 each, and thought about trying to find a bottom feed pin that would work with one of them, or just finding a good single coil bottom feed RDA.
Thanks

 

[MyMagicMist]

You may want to try an Odis style rda, sir. Recently, ordered one for myself. It costs less than $11 USD. Also, look up Fat Daddy Vapes. They carry two versions of squonking pins, one is M2.5 the other is M3. They sell them in three packs for around $3/$4 each. These seem to work well to convert a lot of various RDA to squonkers. The Odis is single coil, although I would imagine a gremlin could use dual coil if he were clever enough. Run 'er slow.

 

[Rangertrix]

You may want to try an Odis style rda, sir. Recently, ordered one for myself. It costs less than $11 USD. Also, look up Fat Daddy Vapes. They carry two versions of squonking pins, one is M2.5 the other is M3. They sell them in three packs for around $3/$4 each. These seem to work well to convert a lot of various RDA to squonkers. The Odis is single coil, although I would imagine a gremlin could use dual coil if he were clever enough. Run 'er slow.

Did you mean an Odin style RDA?
I will check out the Fat Daddy pins again. I had gone there once before to look at conversion stuff and wasn't' entirely sure what I needed so I decided to wait until I got the Dripbox 2 in hand to see if I wanted to bother.
I have been vaping for a lot of years and always wanted to try "squonking" but never did. The number of budget squonkers available now made me decide now was as good a time as any.
Apparently there is a fair number of RDA's and clones that come with a bf pin, but rarely do the websites tell you if they do or not. Would definitely be easier if they would include this helpful little tidbit.
Kanger seems to have taken what should have been an easy squonking experiment and made it complicated, lol. The Dripbox 2 has a lot of unadvertised features that can only be adjusted through their e scribe clone software. I know I could have left all of that alone and kept it simple, but how can someone have the option to play with all that stuff and ignore it? Just wish whomever did their English translations on the program were a little better at it, and it says the manual won't be included in software until next update, lol.
Thanks mate.

 

[Rangertrix]

I tried drilling it straight through and that didn't work either.
Because the rda has the decks that can be screwed out and replaced like a atomizer coil in a tank the bottom of the deck contacts the top of the pin as an electrical contact and because both are flat it won't allow the liquid to pass through.
I went ahead and drilled a horizontal hole through pin and that seems to be working just fine. I'm still curious what it looked like from factory though.

I believe I will still replace this factory rda with a better quality one though. It rather sucks. I knew that going in, but ordered it anyway.
I figured a regulated squonker for $26 couldn't be beat for a first timer.
I had actually just bought 4 Freakshow Minis about a week ago, only because I got them for $4 each, and thought about trying to find a bottom feed pin that would work with one of them, or just finding a good single coil bottom feed RDA.
Thanks

After some thinking, I believe I have come to the conclusion that maybe a bottom air flow RDA isn't the best choice for an inexperienced squonker such as myself. I wonder how well I would do at not over squonking it and causing leakage? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[nightshard]

Sounds like DOA to me, have it replaced where you got it.

Drilling the pin is really not worth the effort since it's a crappy RDA to start with.
Quite a few BF RDAs available on the market and most of them are much better then the one supplied by Kanger.

 

[RCressler]

Like Nightshard said, it's really not worth the trouble to mess with it too much. Those dripbox 60 mods have other issues as well. DON'T LEAVE BATTERY IN IT UNATTENDED! But it is a rather good thought if your happy with it. I know for a fact that the Tobecco velocity clone uses the same pin as the dripbox rda because I used the one out of my girlfriend's to fix her velocity (which she note uses on a Dripbox 160)

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[MyMagicMist]

Did you mean an Odin style RDA?
I will check out the Fat Daddy pins again. I had gone there once before to look at conversion stuff and wasn't' entirely sure what I needed so I decided to wait until I got the Dripbox 2 in hand to see if I wanted to bother.
I have been vaping for a lot of years and always wanted to try "squonking" but never did. The number of budget squonkers available now made me decide now was as good a time as any.
Apparently there is a fair number of RDA's and clones that come with a bf pin, but rarely do the websites tell you if they do or not. Would definitely be easier if they would include this helpful little tidbit.
Kanger seems to have taken what should have been an easy squonking experiment and made it complicated, lol. The Dripbox 2 has a lot of unadvertised features that can only be adjusted through their e scribe clone software. I know I could have left all of that alone and kept it simple, but how can someone have the option to play with all that stuff and ignore it? Just wish whomever did their English translations on the program were a little better at it, and it says the manual won't be included in software until next update, lol.
Thanks mate.

No sir, I meant the Odis. There is a few differences between them. For a mod to put under the RDA I would suggest either a Reo Grand clone from Fast Tech, or an authentic Coppervape which is being dubbed CuV on this forum. The CuV is a lot more ergonomic imho.

Both are mechanical mods, no wires or circuit boards to go bad. Both take a single 18650 battery. You can build dual coils with plain Kanthal A1 on a single battery. I tried dual with Clapton wire and found out it was not feasible, only single coils with Clapton wire on a single battery.

The CuV is also on Fast Tech. The Coppervape is just a little more expensive than the ~$25 Reo Grand clone but to me is worth an extra ~$5 - $10.

You'll only need the Fat Daddy pins for when you go to converting RDAS over to being squonk-able RDA. There are though some RDA like the Odis which either come good to go right out of the box or require only minor adjusting from the box to be 5x5 for squonking. I think if irrc the Odis has a squonking pin come with it in the box. You just pop out the regular pin and pop in the squonk pin and off you go.

I had a dummy fumble when I got a Velocity V2 clone. I kept squonking away yet not getting any juice. There was a real tiny grub screw in the center of the pin on the bottom end. Took that out of the pin and juice flooded the deck of the RDA. *chuckles* I had even read that this was how the RDA came in the product description. *shaking my head* My mind at times wanders, making me wonder. *grin*

 

[Rangertrix]

*Update
Immediately after fixing the issues with the RDA that came with my Drip Box 2, half the threads of the 510 on the mod stripped off. I got the kit replaced and bought a Velocity V2 clone while waiting for replacement to come. New Drip Box 2 and Velocity work great other than an insane amount of residual liquid build up in top cap which drips out of air holes.
Things are working well otherwise. I did see what appears to be a bottom feeding mini RDTA that looked really nice in a Youtube review of the Drip Box 2, but the video was in French (which I don't speak) and I could not figure out what the name of it was.
Does anyone have any idea what this atomizer could be?
I also have an Odis clone on the way (thanks MorelyMagicMist), so we'll see how that one works out once the old "slow boat" makes port.

 

[Rangertrix]

Like Nightshard said, it's really not worth the trouble to mess with it too much. Those dripbox 60 mods have other issues as well. DON'T LEAVE BATTERY IN IT UNATTENDED! But it is a rather good thought if your happy with it. I know for a fact that the Tobecco velocity clone uses the same pin as the dripbox rda because I used the one out of my girlfriend's to fix her velocity (which she note uses on a Dripbox 160)

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A little late to reply, but it's not the Drip Box 60 watt regulated/mechanical mod. Its the new 80 watt regulated version.
Thanks for the info on the center pin, but my Velocity and the RDA that came with my Drip Box 2 aren't the same. The pin on the Drip Box 2 RDA has a pressure fit (not threaded) center pin.

 

[MyMagicMist]

*Update
Immediately after fixing the issues with the RDA that came with my Drip Box 2, half the threads of the 510 on the mod stripped off. I got the kit replaced and bought a Velocity V2 clone while waiting for replacement to come. New Drip Box 2 and Velocity work great other than an insane amount of residual liquid build up in top cap which drips out of air holes.

I figured out a method of avoiding the residual splattering out of the air holes on the Velocity V2 RDA. When you put your coil/s on the deck ensure that you raise the coil up above your air holes. This can be done as an eyeballing job and work out alright.

You might need to build newer coils and be sure to keep extra leg length on them to allow for bending the coil/s upward. Might also need a little bit longer wick to reach down into the juice well. All in though, this does help avoid getting splatter out of the air holes and for me it seems a better vaping experience over all.

Presently, using dual coils and netting an ohm reading of about 0.5. I wrapped 28awg round Kanthal 4 times around a 3mm Inner Diameter to get this resulting ohm reading. Seems I always buy good Kanthal from Temco at a fair price. I've some 30awg here as well I'm trying to ponder what to use to do. Might wrap on the 28awh for some homemade Clapton although that seems like too much work for my notions. *chuckles*

 

[Rangertrix]

I figured out a method of avoiding the residual splattering out of the air holes on the Velocity V2 RDA. When you put your coil/s on the deck ensure that you raise the coil up above your air holes. This can be done as an eyeballing job and work out alright.

You might need to build newer coils and be sure to keep extra leg length on them to allow for bending the coil/s upward. Might also need a little bit longer wick to reach down into the juice well. All in though, this does help avoid getting splatter out of the air holes and for me it seems a better vaping experience over all.

Presently, using dual coils and netting an ohm reading of about 0.5. I wrapped 28awg round Kanthal 4 times around a 3mm Inner Diameter to get this resulting ohm reading. Seems I always buy good Kanthal from Temco at a fair price. I've some 30awg here as well I'm trying to ponder what to use to do. Might wrap on the 28awh for some homemade Clapton although that seems like too much work for my notions. *chuckles*

It's not splattering, it's just the accumulation in the top cap from vapor returning to liquid state that all RDA's experience. Mine not only seems to accumulate more than normal, but the design of the top cap (I think) causes it to become trapped between the inner and outer top and it accumulates until it finally comes out of the airflow holes and runs down the out side. I'm rather anal about residue and leakage and even carry alcohol wipes to wipe down tanks and mods throughout the day, lol. Just something my OCD and I feel the need to do.

I have used left over 30g by twisting 2 strands together. Acts like 27 to 28 gauge in impedance. Flavor is only marginally better, and there is the spitting annoyance caused by a twisted pair.
Seems I still have leftover 30g from when Christ was a mess cook.

 

[MyMagicMist]

Ah, I'll have to try twisted 30awg now. That might do good for me if it ramps up quickly. That was my issue with Clapton wire, it doesn't ramp up quick, or as quick as I'd like.

 

[Rangertrix]

It works pretty well, and making the wicks a little tighter in the coils than normal helps to minimize the popping.