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Eliminating Ramp-up Time on Tube Mod Setup

jmcostales

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Hi Guys!

I'm new to this forum, currently vaping for almost a month now, and I'm into full mech tube mods.

I currently have a Hitman Mod & Plume Veil Atty (clone), with a dual-coil build on 24g kanthal, 8 loops on 3mm guide (.28 Ohms). I'm relatively satisfied with the flavor and cloud production, but I noticed that at times, there is a ramp-up time of less than a second before it sizzles and fires. It does not affect the vapor production once it gets going, but I'm just a bit disturbed at times when it does not fire immediately (I'm a bit OC).

Any advice on the build/wicking and airflow, or is there a factor I do not see or notice? I'm using an Enook 18650 3100mAh 40A battery BTW.

Some pics for your reference:
 

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Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
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Use SS wire instead. Really fast ramp up time. Make sure you wrap your coils, not exceeding the resistance for your batteries continuous discharge rate. This site will help with the calculations: http://www.steam-engine.org/

That battery is not 40 amps at 3100 Mah, more likely 20 amp continuous draw rating (CDR) or below.

If you are serious about mech's and safety, the battery is the first part of the equation. Get some VTC4 batteries, they are lower Mah, but they can handle 30 amp loads. Just my 2 Cents.
 
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r055co

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Use SS wire instead. Really fast ramp up time. Make sure you wrap your coils, not exceeding the resistance for your batteries continuous discharge rate. This site will help with the calculations: http://www.steam-engine.org/

That battery is not 40 amps at 3100 Mah, more likely 20 amp continuous draw rating (CDR) or below.

If you are serious about mech's and safety, the battery is the first part of the equation. Get some VTC4 batteries, they are lower Mah, but they can handle 30 amp loads. Just my 2 Cents.
Mooch rates the vtc4's at 23a.

If you want a 30a battery you need LG.



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r055co

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Member For 4 Years
Hi Guys!

I'm new to this forum, currently vaping for almost a month now, and I'm into full mech tube mods.

I currently have a Hitman Mod & Plume Veil Atty (clone), with a dual-coil build on 24g kanthal, 8 loops on 3mm guide (.28 Ohms). I'm relatively satisfied with the flavor and cloud production, but I noticed that at times, there is a ramp-up time of less than a second before it sizzles and fires. It does not affect the vapor production once it gets going, but I'm just a bit disturbed at times when it does not fire immediately (I'm a bit OC).

Any advice on the build/wicking and airflow, or is there a factor I do not see or notice? I'm using an Enook 18650 3100mAh 40A battery BTW.

Some pics for your reference:

There are No 40a batteries, get rid of that pipe bomb battery now! Only get batteries recommend by Mooch, especially if you're using it in a mech. That is unless you want to blow your face off.

Get yourself a LG, Samsung or Sony from legitimate sources. That probably is the source of your issues.



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Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
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I guess he does, I've been running them at 26amps. LOL. Bad Zam, Bad Zam. :oops:
 

r055co

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Since you just started Vaping and jumped into Mech's (bad idea for a newbie), here's my lecture.

If you ignore it, so be it but you only have yourself to blame when you blow your face off.

1. Ohm's law, http://www.steam-engine.org/ makes it easy and there's even an app on it for Android
2. Batteries, fucking batteries, take good care of your batteries and know them!!!!!!!!
a. Avoid shit batteries like eFest who rewrap rejects with grossly inflated amp ratings. Stick with authentic LG, Sony or Samsung from reputable (not ebay or amazon) sources, great places to get authentic are from
http://liionwholesale.com/
https://www.imrbatteries.com/
b. Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"
c. Keep up to date with what Mooch tests and battery ratings, follow his posts on Facebook and his Blog
d. In Mod's with multipule batteries, marry them.
e. Get some battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to re-wrap batteries. Any nicks,tears or what ever don't be stupid and just re-wrap.
3. Don't build stupid low a good builder can chuck and get awesome dense vape from a good build. It's simple, with 20 CDR Amp batteries -
a. Single battery mod's you're fine with .2 ohms on up
b. Dual Parallel you're fine with .15 on up. Parallel you take the full CDR of one battery and you can add 1/2 the amp rating of the next battery
c. Series you double the voltage but you share the amp. So a series you build high with a lot of wire, no lower that .4 ohms.
4. Make sure you don't have any shorts. For an extra caution any new build I vape on a regulated mod for a few drips or with a tank about a 1/4 tank. This is to insure nothing wonky with my build or any shorts.
5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button and you pit it in your pocket (which I really don't recommend) insure nothing else is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front jeans pocket and blow your dick off ya know ;)
6. Last but certainly NOT the least, keep it clean! Clean it when you first get it "before" you even use it and clean it on a regular basis.
a. Ultrasonics are a very good investment, got mine off Amazon for around $25.

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robot zombie

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I agree on you having a poor battery for mechs. With regulated devices, any old 20A cell will do. But mechs have no safety nets and they like high-current builds, so only the best 20A or 30A cells will do. They don't even cost more to get. Take the advice given and get either sony VTC4's or Samsung 25r's... ...preferably VTC4's if you want to do fast, high-mass builds. VTC4's can be had from illumn.com for $6 a peice.

LG HB6's are arguably the best in terms of voltage and really the only true 30A cells worth talking about. But the 1500mah capacity can be hard to get past. The runtime on them is ridiculously short, though the performance for that short time is as good as it gets. VTC3's are similar in that regard.

Low sub-ohming is the way to go for speed on a mech, but it's important to do it the right way. The battery is the most important thing to not be lazy and skimp out on. Not just for safety, but because voltage drop is a big deal with unregulated power. An inferior quality battery outputs less power under load, meaning a slower vape. It's also a sign of the battery being more strained.

If it's in and out, then it could be a button or contact issue. Make sure everything is clean and check out the button to make sure it's throwing down evenly every time. You may have to change the way you press it to make it come down right every time. It may be the mod.

Once you get all of that worked-out, I say shoot for a .18-.24 with that dual 24... ...it just has to be a little smaller: 5 or 6 wraps around a 2.5mm. The vapor and flavor will still be there, but it'll be much warmer and faster. On tube mods, there comes a point with the mass/power ratio of the coil where it's too big to be powered optimally, meaning that if you make the coils too big, you won't be able to take advantage of the surface area because it's not getting adequate heat pushed out. Smaller is often better with tubes... ...for speed, flavor and vapor.

Those were my personal favorites starting off. But again, if you're gonna do a .18, 30A batteries are not optional. The .24 is perfectly okay with 20A cells and performs great.

For speed, 28g is handy in the .28-.32 range. 6 or 7-wrap, 2mm dual parallel 28's produce a lot of flavor and vapor really quickly. They're little coils that pack a nice punch. Faster than dual 24's even. You can also try twisting them instead if the parallel is too difficult, but it will alter the texture. Some like it, some prefer parallel.

If you can do the dual-parallel 28, then you'll love the triple. Lotsa clouds and flavor for that. Perhaps more than a dual 24g. Faster, but also hotter. Maybe 6 wraps @ 2.5mm. Should be around .18.

I dunno, these are really just my preference. There are always compromises.

@Zamazam mentioned SS. Personally, I'm not a fan of it, but it is very snappy. Another option is nichrome, though some people claim it has a funky taste. I haven't experienced any difference in flavor and it has lower resistance for it's mass/thickness, meaning a nichrome coil of given size will pull more power than a kanthal coil of the same size.
 
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r055co

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Batteries available in most of the world are produced by the Big 4, Panasonic/Orbtronics/AW, Sony, Samsung, and LG. Most companies like Efest and such buy up the B and C quality discards from these Big 4 manufacturers, read the spec sheets of the A Bin authentics cells, slap the Pulse Discharge Rating on the label as the Continuous Discharge Rating (or just grossly exaggerate ratings) and double the price. PDR is a dangerous rating to base things off of, you do not know if that PDR is 500 milliseconds or 10 seconds, where the CDR rating is the current a battery can hold and maintain the entire charge without much incident.

Companies like enook and eFest are criminally malicious and should prosecuted for what they are doing.

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mach1ne

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
i like tiny coils on the tube. my favorite tube build is 28 gauge fused claptons at 2 to 2.5mm, 4 wraps.
 

r055co

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Member For 4 Years
i like tiny coils on the tube. my favorite tube build is 28 gauge fused claptons at 2 to 2.5mm, 4 wraps.
Currently enjoying a 0.54 ohm duel 28g 317L SS 8 wraps around 2.5 di in my Omerta on my Bandit tube.

Nice smooth vape and very responsive, but then again I've got a Samsung 20R in it ;)

88e1e7339546007151ca5f0141671037.jpg


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