Genuine DNA 40 or SX350J ??!!

[Mroutlaw]

I've got a vs rdna40 and a Hana v4d and I love the,. Guess I have to get one of these now. I can only find the red and grey ones. Anyone know if the red is a deep red or a rose/pink? I wouldn't mind red, but no interest in pink


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[Mroutlaw]

Try twisting kanthal with ni200 to make your temperature coils easier to work with. I twist 28gauge ni200 with 30gauge kanthal and get .15ohm coils with 6 wraps on a 3mm rod. Makes working with ni200 much easier. Here's a video

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[f1r3b1rd]

I can Def understand that for sure. I couldn't get thus thing out if the box fast enough. Lolol

I did I dri

I've got a vs rdna40 and a Hana v4d and I love the,. Guess I have to get one of these now. I can only find the red and grey ones. Anyone know if the red is a deep red or a rose/pink? I wouldn't mind red, but no interest in pink


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to me it looks pink.
the black frame and gold frame should be out next week

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Try twisting kanthal with ni200 to make your temperature coils easier to work with. I twist 28gauge ni200 with 30gauge kanthal and get .15ohm coils with 6 wraps on a 3mm rod. Makes working with ni200 much easier. Here's a video

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tempered ni200 works just like kanthal also. Only you cant dry burn it.

 

[Mroutlaw]

tempered ni200 works just like kanthal also. Only you cant dry burn it.

I know, but I can't find it. The nice thing about twisting the ni200 with the kanthal is that you end up with a little more ni200 per inch, you end up need a couple less wraps. Usually I'd need 8-9 wraps to get .15ohms but with this twisted coil, I only need 5-7 depending on the device


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[Mroutlaw]

I did I dri

to me it looks pink.
the black frame and gold frame should be out next week

They says its rose but coval vapes website pic looks fire engine red


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[f1r3b1rd]

I know, but I can't find it. The nice thing about twisting the ni200 with the kanthal is that you end up with a little more ni200 per inch, you end up need a couple less wraps. Usually I'd need 8-9 wraps to get .15ohms but with this twisted coil, I only need 5-7 depending on the device


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i may give the twisted a shot. With yihi board you only need 0.065 which put me at 7 wraps of the 28g tempered.
I got it from a buddy who went through amazon. Said it was quick with shipping and all.
Sorry for the typos my phone is all kind of crazy here's the co its from.
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/index.php?route=mobile_store/product&product_id=389

 

[f1r3b1rd]

They says its rose but coval vapes website pic looks fire engine red


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I saw that, then saw someone on the ecf place (was just banned again so I cant post a link) just put up a pic earlier and it looks way chick pink
....then again I'm partially colorblind but damnit if it didn't look like a Barbie mod

 

[Mroutlaw]

I saw that, then saw someone on the ecf place (was just banned again so I cant post a link) just put up a pic earlier and it looks way chick pink
....then again I'm partially colorblind but damnit if it didn't look like a Barbie mod

Thanks. Definitely don't want Barbie pink. Guess I'll go with grey. Two of my suppliers have it. Now just Have to decide which to buy it from. And if I want to pay $20 for overnight shipping. I want this thing nowwwww.


Are you enjoying it? How does it compare to the dna40. I've never had issues with my Dna devices at all


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[f1r3b1rd]

Thanks. Definitely don't want Barbie pink. Guess I'll go with grey. Two of my suppliers have it. Now just Have to decide which to buy it from. And if I want to pay $20 for overnight shipping. I want this thing nowwwww.


Are you enjoying it? How does it compare to the dna40. I've never had issues with my Dna devices at all


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I bought a second one, and am ready to sell all my dna40s.
These things make evolv seem so far behind the times its not even funny.
To say its the best mod I've ever used is an understatement.
The build quality reminds me of something provape would put out but nice. The tech is the same leap forward that evolv was with the first DNA.

 

[Rommel]

I would hope for a more simple interface on the YiHi chip. I love my DNA40s for being so simple and straightforward. Never had any issues with temp control, and i have a mod with the small screen (older chip) and a mod with a big screen (newer version) and they both work pretty much the same.

That being said, im getting an SX Mini M Class as soon as i can

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Hahaha... Yeah I have every variation of the dna40,-9mods they all work as there supposed to
I also looked at the s class sxmini, at a local b&m and passed on it because you had to use the gyro sensor only when in the menu system, which made me feel like I was directing planes on an aircraft carrier.
The m class you can use the sensor or the buttons.
Which makes it so much easier.
The thing is so fluid that after a week with it I'm still enamered.

 

[Mroutlaw]

Hahaha... Yeah I have every variation of the dna40,-9mods they all work as there supposed to
I also looked at the s class sxmini, at a local b&m and passed on it because you had to use the gyro sensor only when in the menu system, which made me feel like I was directing planes on an aircraft carrier.
The m class you can use the sensor or the buttons.
Which makes it so much easier.
The thing is so fluid that after a week with it I'm still enamered.

Wish I new of a local b&m that sold them. I'm in south Florida and can't find anyone who carries it


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[Giraut]

I would hope for a more simple interface on the YiHi chip. I love my DNA40s for being so simple and straightforward.

Funny, I'm the exact opposite: I wish the DNA40 had more settings and fine-tuning options available to the user. Just for that, the SXmini M-class attracts me very much. Having said that, whenever I get frustrated with the DNA40's overly simplified "menu" and options, I remember my short stint with the Provari P3 and its atrocious one-button affair, and I immediately feel better

 

[Mroutlaw]

Funny, I'm the exact opposite: I wish the DNA40 had more settings and fine-tuning options available to the user. Just for that, the SXmini M-class attracts me very much. Having said that, whenever I get frustrated with the DNA40's overly simplified "menu" and options, I remember my short stint with the Provari P3 and its atrocious one-button affair, and I immediately feel better

I agree with you. Same experience with provari. I was so excited to get the p3. Got it when it first came out. Multiple battery option, multiple led colors, memory settings, Then I hated the menu. Plus the iq thing was always off. I'd use it for 20 minutes and it would say my battery was dead (I was only vaping at 10 watts). After just 3 weeks I put it down and went back to my 2.5 edition. That is until I got my rdna40 a couple months ago


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[f1r3b1rd]

I'm so glad I didn't go for the p3. I had just gotten a dna30 when they announced it. So I had "seen the light" so to speak.
After getting away from them I started seeing it a fascist mod... Hahaha
You can vape anyway you want so long as its how we want you to.

 

[Vlad1]

There's so little in common on these two devices it's like comparing apples to oranges. About the only thing that you could really compare would be temperature limiting. I think there will be more devices coming around the corner that will be more similar to the feature set of the SXmini m.

 

[2c5000]

i am looking for real temp control.

do the DNA chips do this?

or is the sx350j the only chip currently that can provide this function properly?

im only worried about temp control functionality and reliability. all the other bells and whistles dont really matter.

sx350j or DNA?

 

[Tom_Pulliam]

Honestly couldn't tell you about the DNA chip, however I received my nickel wire yesterday and whipped up a coil after work and it does exactly what I was hoping it would. Forgot to mention I'm using the SX Mini M class

 

[Mroutlaw]

i am looking for real temp control.

do the DNA chips do this?

or is the sx350j the only chip currently that can provide this function properly?

im only worried about temp control functionality and reliability. all the other bells and whistles dont really matter.

sx350j or DNA?

The DNA is all in the build. The better your build and connections, the better it will work. I have a Hana v4d and a VS rdna40. Both work really well. I've put YouTube videos reviewing and with both, I've put it to 20 watts at 420 and fired and the cotton didn't even char a little. Never had a dry hit.

The coils do go faster, especially with darker or sweet juices. and it's easier to wrap a new one than to try and rewick.

Btw, the kanger nickel heads for the subtank mini are awesome, but they're expensive


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[Vlad1]

i am looking for real temp control.

do the DNA chips do this?

or is the sx350j the only chip currently that can provide this function properly?

im only worried about temp control functionality and reliability. all the other bells and whistles dont really matter.

sx350j or DNA?

There is a difference in "Temperature Control" and "Temperature Limit" I don't believe there are any devices available for temperature control presently. Just depends on what you really mean when you say "temp control" I know they're being used interchangeably even by myself at times but there is a difference. Here's the links to some information to them both for you to decide what fits your needs best.

http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf
http://www.yihisxmini.com/Manual-page15.html

 

[Giraut]

There's so little in common on these two devices it's like comparing apples to oranges.

No it isn't. The devices have many things in common. Let's analyze your comparison chart shall we?

View attachment 18979

- Temperature control max: 600F vs 580F. Pointless comparison point. Anything about 530F is stupid in temperature control mode.

- Temperature control min: 200F. Pointless. Anything below 380F yields no vapor in temperature control mode.

- Max power regular mode: 40W vs 120W. If you like power, sure why not.

- Max power temp limit mode: 40W vs 50J. Ignoring the fact that, again, joules means nothing here, and assuming it means watts... well, 10W difference... Woohoo!

- Min atomizer resistance, standard wire: 0.16 ohm vs 0.15 ohm. One hundredth of an ohm difference... Woohoo!

- Max atomizer resistance, standard wire: 2 ohm vs 3 ohm. Yeah okay, the SX350J is better. When was the last time you used an atomizer that has a resistance above 2 ohm though?

- Min atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 0.1 ohm vs 0.05 ohm. Yep, that's a real improvement in the SXmini, to run dual nickel coils.

- Max atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 1 ohm. Both chips are equal here, but nobody gives a shit: because a 1 ohm nickel coil wouldn't even fit inside a normal atomizer.

- Software upgradable: N/A vs yes. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Memory locations: N/A vs 10. I assume "memory locations" are presets. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Auto rotary display: N/A vs yes. SXmini is better, but I must admit I don't feel the need for it myself.

- Gravity sensor: N/A vs yes. Same as above really. Unless it means the ability to adjust things by tilting the mod: if you like that, then yes, SXmini is better. I hate that feature's guts personally.

So, aside from a few software niceties, a couple of meaningless specs, a really useful minimum resistance spec and more power, the devices are quite similar. The SXmini is better, sure, but it's not earth-shatteringly different.

 

[Mroutlaw]

i am looking for real temp control.

do the DNA chips do this?

or is the sx350j the only chip currently that can provide this function properly?

im only worried about temp control functionality and reliability. all the other bells and whistles dont really matter.

sx350j or DNA?

What do you mean by "control". Neither device controls the temperature. What they do is read the nickel and if the coil gets to a certain temp (whatever you set), the chip stops providing power to the coil or throttles it back depending on situation. So if I set my Dna to 450 degrees and 18 watts, the device will throw 18watts but if the coil reaches 450 degrees, the DNa will throttle back the power. It will continue to fire, but not necessarily at 18watts. If it can't throttle back the power enough (for example it reaches 1 watt and the coil is still 450degrees, then it will stop firing and enter temperature protection. This generally happens when you don't have enough airflow or the wick is completely dry. Remember, airflow and juice will help cool the coil..

It's also possible to not hit the temperature limit. For example, if I put my juiced kayfun on my Hana and set it at 420degrees and 13 watts, I never hit temperature limit. With no airflow , it stays around 340degrees

I believe the sx works in a similar fashion but I haven't received mine yet so until I test and review it, I can't speak for more than I've read. Maybe someone else can chime in on the sx side of it

 

[Mroutlaw]

No it isn't. The devices have many things in common. Let's analyze your comparison chart shall we?



- Temperature control max: 600F vs 580F. Pointless comparison point. Anything about 530F is stupid in temperature control mode.

- Temperature control min: 200F. Pointless. Anything below 380F yields no vapor in temperature control mode.

- Max power regular mode: 40W vs 120W. If you like power, sure why not.

- Max power temp limit mode: 40W vs 50J. Ignoring the fact that, again, joules means nothing here, and assuming it means watts... well, 10W difference... Woohoo!

- Min atomizer resistance, standard wire: 0.16 ohm vs 0.15 ohm. One hundredth of an ohm difference... Woohoo!

- Max atomizer resistance, standard wire: 2 ohm vs 3 ohm. Yeah okay, the SX350J is better. When was the last time you used an atomizer that has a resistance above 2 ohm though?

- Min atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 0.1 ohm vs 0.05 ohm. Yep, that's a real improvement in the SXmini, to run dual nickel coils.

- Max atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 1 ohm. Both chips are equal here, but nobody gives a shit: because a 1 ohm nickel coil wouldn't even fit inside a normal atomizer.

- Software upgradable: N/A vs yes. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Memory locations: N/A vs 10. I assume "memory locations" are presets. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Auto rotary display: N/A vs yes. SXmini is better, but I must admit I don't feel the need for it myself.

- Gravity sensor: N/A vs yes. Same as above really. Unless it means the ability to adjust things by tilting the mod: if you like that, then yes, SXmini is better. I hate that feature's guts personally.

So, aside from a few software niceties, a couple of meaningless specs, a really useful minimum resistance spec and more power, the devices are quite similar. The SXmini is better, sure, but it's not earth-shatteringly different.

I would also say that the dna will run a .05 coil, it just starts stepping back and limiting. I saw a review video, believe it was busardo but don't quote me on that, where they used a .06coil

 

[Vlad1]

No it isn't. The devices have many things in common. Let's analyze your comparison chart shall we?



- Temperature control max: 600F vs 580F. Pointless comparison point. Anything about 530F is stupid in temperature control mode.

- Temperature control min: 200F. Pointless. Anything below 380F yields no vapor in temperature control mode.

- Max power regular mode: 40W vs 120W. If you like power, sure why not.

- Max power temp limit mode: 40W vs 50J. Ignoring the fact that, again, joules means nothing here, and assuming it means watts... well, 10W difference... Woohoo!

- Min atomizer resistance, standard wire: 0.16 ohm vs 0.15 ohm. One hundredth of an ohm difference... Woohoo!

- Max atomizer resistance, standard wire: 2 ohm vs 3 ohm. Yeah okay, the SX350J is better. When was the last time you used an atomizer that has a resistance above 2 ohm though?

- Min atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 0.1 ohm vs 0.05 ohm. Yep, that's a real improvement in the SXmini, to run dual nickel coils.

- Max atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 1 ohm. Both chips are equal here, but nobody gives a shit: because a 1 ohm nickel coil wouldn't even fit inside a normal atomizer.

- Software upgradable: N/A vs yes. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Memory locations: N/A vs 10. I assume "memory locations" are presets. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Auto rotary display: N/A vs yes. SXmini is better, but I must admit I don't feel the need for it myself.

- Gravity sensor: N/A vs yes. Same as above really. Unless it means the ability to adjust things by tilting the mod: if you like that, then yes, SXmini is better. I hate that feature's guts personally.

So, aside from a few software niceties, a couple of meaningless specs, a really useful minimum resistance spec and more power, the devices are quite similar. The SXmini is better, sure, but it's not earth-shatteringly different.

Negating a feature because you don't find it useful or meaningful does not invalidate it. It just means you have no need or desire for it. It sounds to me like you'd be content with a mech mod. The reality is regardless if you have a need for the features or not there are many more on the SXmini that are nice to have. I mean why would you even consider comparing a 40w mod to a 120w mod? The overwhelming power output alone is enough to put it in a different class not even considering all the other features. It's like comparing a mech mod to a mosfet mod, they both put out vapor but one has more features than the other.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

No it isn't. The devices have many things in common. Let's analyze your comparison chart shall we?



- Temperature control max: 600F vs 580F. Pointless comparison point. Anything about 530F is stupid in temperature control mode.

- Temperature control min: 200F. Pointless. Anything below 380F yields no vapor in temperature control mode.

- Max power regular mode: 40W vs 120W. If you like power, sure why not.

- Max power temp limit mode: 40W vs 50J. Ignoring the fact that, again, joules means nothing here, and assuming it means watts... well, 10W difference... Woohoo!

- Min atomizer resistance, standard wire: 0.16 ohm vs 0.15 ohm. One hundredth of an ohm difference... Woohoo!

- Max atomizer resistance, standard wire: 2 ohm vs 3 ohm. Yeah okay, the SX350J is better. When was the last time you used an atomizer that has a resistance above 2 ohm though?

- Min atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 0.1 ohm vs 0.05 ohm. Yep, that's a real improvement in the SXmini, to run dual nickel coils.

- Max atomizer resistance, temperature sensing: 1 ohm. Both chips are equal here, but nobody gives a shit: because a 1 ohm nickel coil wouldn't even fit inside a normal atomizer.

- Software upgradable: N/A vs yes. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Memory locations: N/A vs 10. I assume "memory locations" are presets. Yep, SXmini is better.

- Auto rotary display: N/A vs yes. SXmini is better, but I must admit I don't feel the need for it myself.

- Gravity sensor: N/A vs yes. Same as above really. Unless it means the ability to adjust things by tilting the mod: if you like that, then yes, SXmini is better. I hate that feature's guts personally.

So, aside from a few software niceties, a couple of meaningless specs, a really useful minimum resistance spec and more power, the devices are quite similar. The SXmini is better, sure, but it's not earth-shatteringly different.

the biggest difference for me is how they actually vape... and im a HUGE fan of evolve in general for multiple reasons.

the dna40 unlike the 30 or any other variation of the dnaboards, ramps up to its wattage setting, I didn't notice it much when that's all I was using but using the sx with the same atty, same build same juice its a GLARING improvement for me.
you hit the magic button and it just immediately puts out like my ex-wife when we were dating.
the soft/standard/powerful and powerful plus modes are just plain awesome!!
the dna40 feels to me like its somewhere between the soft and standard mode of the sx350j chip.
no more waiting those few seconds for it to heatup, is such a huge improvement on the vape experience

 

[Giraut]

Negating a feature because you don't find it useful or meaningful does not invalidate it. It just means you have no need or desire for it. It sounds to me like you'd be content with a mech mod. The reality is regardless if you have a need for the features or not there are many more on the SXmini that are nice to have. I mean why would you even consider comparing a 40w mod to a 120w mod? The overwhelming power output alone is enough to put it in a different class not even considering all the other features. It's like comparing a mech mod to a mosfet mod, they both put out vapor but one has more features than the other.

Did you not read what I wrote? I said the SX350J is nicer (more features, more power) but it's not wildly different.

I was responding to your claim that comparing the SX350J to the DNA40 is like comparing apples to oranges. It's not. More like comparing oranges with mandarines: same thing, only better.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

dude, im going to have to google mandarine


I feel stupid

 

[Vlad1]

I would also say that the dna will run a .05 coil, it just starts stepping back and limiting. I saw a review video, believe it was busardo but don't quote me on that, where they used a .06coil

IDK I was going off their datasheet

Did you not read what I wrote? I said the SX350J is nicer (more features, more power) but it's not wildly different.

I was responding to your claim that comparing the SX350J to the DNA40 is like comparing apples to oranges. It's not. More like comparing oranges with mandarines: same thing, only better.

They both do temperature limiting that's it. There is nothing else they both do the same.... What is the comparison your coming up with???? Please list your line items for that.

 

[2c5000]

as long as i can keep the coil from ever going over set temp that is all im worried about.

as in, i set the temp, fire the device, and it will not allow to let the coil go over my set temp for as long as i fire it...?

 

[Mroutlaw]

as long as i can keep the coil from ever going over set temp that is all im worried about.

as in, i set the temp, fire the device, and it will not allow to let the coil go over my set temp for as long as i fire it...?

That's what they do.

 

[Mroutlaw]

Having 2 Authentic Dna devices, I'm still getting the sx just to see the difference. The sx does have extra features, the best and most important being the upgradable board. That's the reason I'm willing to get it early.

Wth that said, some of the other features don't mean much. They're nice, but not necessary.

The 60 watt is nice, but honestly, it's not going to be much help with TEmpertaure limit. You will hit that limit so fast it won't matter and no need for the 120.

If you're buying for temp, u don't need 120 watts

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Having 2 Authentic Dna devices, I'm still getting the sx just to see the difference. The sx does have extra features, the best and most important being the upgradable board. That's the reason I'm willing to get it early.

Wth that said, some of the other features don't mean much. They're nice, but not necessary.

The 60 watt is nice, but honestly, it's not going to be much help with TEmpertaure limit. You will hit that limit so fast it won't matter and no need for the 120.

If you're buying for temp, u don't need 120 watts

I may be wrong here and if so I apologize- kinda under the weather and my brain is broken today, but the T.Limiting doesn't use the 120w that's only usable in power mode.
as to not needing it because you'll hit the limit so quick, that's not necesarrily how the wattage/temp/vape play together. if someone like a warm hard hit, or a full cool hit, the build and combination of power and temp settigs come into play there. as well as the way it fires. the power in the sx mod when youre in Tlimit mode dictates how the vape hits you, it may hit your limit quicker but youre going to stay there at a more consistent experience throughout where the dna 40 seems to slowly build up, hit and slowly build down. and all of mine fluctuate at temp.

I have a 0.11 build in a lemo 2 and with the same setting on the dna 40 and sx, you would swear it was two differet attys, the sx packs such a much harder punch for whatever reason, and its not a jellyfish deal with it being tuned to mean. its the absence of the dna40 ramp up.

you can see seething similar if you have a dna30 or any other sxchip mod. put a kanthal build and bounce back and forth you'll feel a sluggish at the start thing from the dna40.

 

[Mroutlaw]

I may be wrong here and if so I apologize- kinda under the weather and my brain is broken today, but the T.Limiting doesn't use the 120w that's only usable in power mode.
as to not needing it because you'll hit the limit so quick, that's not necesarrily how the wattage/temp/vape play together. if someone like a warm hard hit, or a full cool hit, the build and combination of power and temp settigs come into play there. as well as the way it fires. the power in the sx mod when youre in Tlimit mode dictates how the vape hits you, it may hit your limit quicker but youre going to stay there at a more consistent experience throughout where the dna 40 seems to slowly build up, hit and slowly build down. and all of mine fluctuate at temp.

I have a 0.11 build in a lemo 2 and with the same setting on the dna 40 and sx, you would swear it was two differet attys, the sx packs such a much harder punch for whatever reason, and its not a jellyfish deal with it being tuned to mean. its the absence of the dna40 ramp up.

you can see seething similar if you have a dna30 or any other sxchip mod. put a kanthal build and bounce back and forth you'll feel a sluggish at the start thing from the dna40.

i know that the 120 is only available in power mode. My point is, you are buying that mod for the Temperature Limiting , at least myself and most people that i know, so why do you need the 120watts. If you arent planning on using the TL, then why buy that mod,? You can get other ones much cheaper.

as far as the ramp up, the DNA does have a ramp up. I vape around 15-18 watts and 420 degree. when I hit the fire button, it puts out abut 26 watts hits the limit then goes back to my set wattage and never hit my temp limit when actually vaping.

I believe the SX has a much faster ramp up, at least I've heard, which is why its a better vape experience. I'll know more when I get mine, which is hopefully tomorrow. eciggity sent mine express today, but Hawaii to florida can take 2 days even with express.

Even though I love my DNA, i'm excited to get my SX mini m. I'm most excited about the fact that you can lock in the atty ohms. I own a landscape company and spend my day in the truck. I've found that now that its hot here, when I get out of the truck for a job and get back in, the dna thinks my atty is a different temp and starts reading it at .25ohms instead of .14. Thus it provides more power and I get burnt hits. so to counteract that, I now use kanthal coils at work, which I hate having to deal with


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[f1r3b1rd]

Well, for me going from the dna40 to this was kind of like when I went from ego to provari. As far as the worlds apart with the same topper, you'll see, hopefully tomorrow. I got one from yeti and the other from VapinArt. I hate oompa loompa Florida by the way, they hid ever one of my vaporsharks for days, that place is like the usp lost n found.

As to the why this one for 120w- all the extra features for one, the display, memory, and versatility but the different firing modes, mainly. the sx330 chip doesn't have that.
My adv is usually an aquav2 at 38w if in Kanthal and 36w 500°in ni200 so yeah 60w power is more than enough and the ramp up from the dna is muchh more noticeable. granted I didn't notice it after using it for so long. But, while I hate the girth of dual battery box, I keep a married pair of vtc4s and the extension tube in my bag, with a cloud chasing atty rather than a separate mod altogether. When I wanna be an annoying vapor I just switch this one around and good to go. Or I have the optionn ov using It that way for the extended run time. Gotta love options!!!

That's probably my singular favorite part of this mod, its the only one on the market right now that is versatile enough for someone to vape any style they are in the mood for. A person Like me, with schizophrenic vape habits its perfect for .
Like said earlier I test drove the s Class so I knew the build quality was out of sight.

 

[vapinclouds]

Try twisting kanthal with ni200 to make your temperature coils easier to work with. I twist 28gauge ni200 with 30gauge kanthal and get .15ohm coils with 6 wraps on a 3mm rod. Makes working with ni200 much easier. Here's a video

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Just tried this... Man what a difference. So much easier to work with and LESS WRAPS!

 

[Valkyrie]

sx mini joule mode evaluation...
kanger premade nickel coil resistance .13 ohms
temperature limit set to 420 degrees...joules set to 20...
initial voltage sx mini presented,,,1.78v
voltage presented at end of 6 sec draw...2.44v
temperature swing ...176 degrees to 422 degees back to 417 degrees to 422 degrees back to 416 degrees to 422 degrees...
once the temperature started into its minimum to maximum window the voltage applied range was 2.38 to 2. 44 v at button release...
the vape was on the cool end of warm if that makes any sense
the vape was very smooth and very consistent from beginnning to end
the temp limit you set allows you to get the warm or cool vape of your choosing...
the joules you select allow you to maximize the efficiency of your coils surface area (that window of voltage min to voltage max before going back to voltage min and doing it all again...
the more coil wrapps you have ie...11, 12, 13 , the higher your joules setting should be
the less wraps your coil has, ie....5, 6,7 the lower your joiles setting should be to maximize that coils surface area efficiency...
you will determine these yourself as everyones taste is different...
the point here being ...do not tell yourself that 20 joules is equivelant to 20 watts and set your vape style in that manner...
set the temp limit to achieve the warmth you like, use the joules to set a small swing instead of a large swing in temp minimum to maximun and voltage applied range smaller from min to max
end result is a very smooth, very consistant vape... with the dna 40 i noticed a distinct change in vape as the board reached temp limit and reduced the voltage or throttled back and started its ramp up again...

hope this makes sense and hope this helps explain how and why yihi chose to do what they did..i cannot wait for busardos evaluation of the m class, but it will not change my mind that if used properly can provide a far superior vape quality than the evolv dna40...
this is just my experience and you will find your settings will vary from mine slightly due to the vape you like

 

[Mroutlaw]

Well, for me going from the dna40 to this was kind of like when I went from ego to provari. As far as the worlds apart with the same topper, you'll see, hopefully tomorrow. I got one from yeti and the other from VapinArt. I hate oompa loompa Florida by the way, they hid ever one of my vaporsharks for days, that place is like the usp lost n found.

As to the why this one for 120w- all the extra features for one, the display, memory, and versatility but the different firing modes, mainly. the sx330 chip doesn't have that.
My adv is usually an aquav2 at 38w if in Kanthal and 36w 500°in ni200 so yeah 60w power is more than enough and the ramp up from the dna is muchh more noticeable. granted I didn't notice it after using it for so long. But, while I hate the girth of dual battery box, I keep a married pair of vtc4s and the extension tube in my bag, with a cloud chasing atty rather than a separate mod altogether. When I wanna be an annoying vapor I just switch this one around and good to go. Or I have the optionn ov using It that way for the extended run time. Gotta love options!!!

That's probably my singular favorite part of this mod, its the only one on the market right now that is versatile enough for someone to vape any style they are in the mood for. A person Like me, with schizophrenic vape habits its perfect for .
Like said earlier I test drove the s Class so I knew the build quality was out of sight.

I'm looking forward to it. But 38watts, I could never handle. I only went from 10-15 when I got my DNA. For my first 2 years, I never went over 8. I tried 40 watts for a review video and it kicked my ass.

I do love the options though. Probably won't get the extension tube, cause I'll never hit 60, but u never know.


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[Zamazam]

as long as i can keep the coil from ever going over set temp that is all im worried about.

as in, i set the temp, fire the device, and it will not allow to let the coil go over my set temp for as long as i fire it...?

Yep.

 

[mero16]

Try twisting kanthal with ni200 to make your temperature coils easier to work with. I twist 28gauge ni200 with 30gauge kanthal and get .15ohm coils with 6 wraps on a 3mm rod. Makes working with ni200 much easier. Here's a video

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great video outlaw, gonna try it when i have time.thanks again

 

[Anson]

I was going to jump right on the SXmini bandwagon but the pulse width modulation in temp limiting puts me off.
Then there's the fact it eats 18650's and has an easily damaged finish.

Definitely unsure about getting it now.

 

[Mroutlaw]

I was going to jump right on the SXmini bandwagon but the pulse width modulation in temp limiting puts me off.
Then there's the fact it eats 18650's and has an easily damaged finish.

Definitely unsure about getting it now.

I think busardo is exaggerating it a little. Other than the slight noise that the pulse width modulation makes, I really don't notice it. As for battery, it's not that big of a deal. I'm a heavy vaper. Been using mine all day since 6 am (it's now 7pm). Gone through 2 kayfun4 tanks and I've dripped at least 3 ml. I'm at 19000jules used and I usually get about 23000 with my Samsung 25r batteries.
In regards to finish, mine looks awesome. I have 6 friends with them and 4 have had theirs since day one. No one has any issues with the finish.

I will say busardo is right on with the battery cap though. It's a bit of a pain. Wish it was a cap, similar to the 510 cap. Put knurles on it and I'd be happy. I also wish you could turn off the gravity thing. When I try and change setting sometimes it works against what I'm trying to set.

The joules thing is a pain, but honestly, in all my testing and vaping, it's similar to watts. I find you set it at a little less than you would watts. For example, on my Hana v4d, I run at 420degrees and 20watts, to get a similar vape on the sx mini m class, I have to run around 16.5 joules


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[vapinclouds]

I was going to jump right on the SXmini bandwagon but the pulse width modulation in temp limiting puts me off.
Then there's the fact it eats 18650's and has an easily damaged finish.

Definitely unsure about getting it now.

I'm not sure where you're getting your information but until you own it I would think it is hard for you to know these things. If it is pulse width in temp mode I don't really care. The vape in temp mode is amazing, sometimes. In my experience so far with it there has been no consistency in temp mode. I have tried multiple builds with some sucess' but it has been impossible for me to get that amazing vape all the time, or it will start off great and then suddenly it isn't vaping the same. I vape strictly tanks and I wonder if this has something to do with it? I have ordered some nickel coils for my Subtank to try out and see if I get better results.
I don't think it kills batteries any faster/slower than any of my other dozen mods.
The finish is definitely NOT easily damaged as I have already knocked it over a couple of times and it has no signs of even microscratches on it even on the bottom.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

I think busardo is exaggerating it a little. Other than the slight noise that the pulse width modulation makes, I really don't notice it. As for battery, it's not that big of a deal. I'm a heavy vaper. Been using mine all day since 6 am (it's now 7pm). Gone through 2 kayfun4 tanks and I've dripped at least 3 ml. I'm at 19000jules used and I usually get about 23000 with my Samsung 25r batteries.
In regards to finish, mine looks awesome. I have 6 friends with them and 4 have had theirs since day one. No one has any issues with the finish.

I will say busardo is right on with the battery cap though. It's a bit of a pain. Wish it was a cap, similar to the 510 cap. Put knurles on it and I'd be happy. I also wish you could turn off the gravity thing. When I try and change setting sometimes it works against what I'm trying to set.

The joules thing is a pain, but honestly, in all my testing and vaping, it's similar to watts. I find you set it at a little less than you would watts. For example, on my Hana v4d, I run at 420degrees and 20watts, to get a similar vape on the sx mini m class, I have to run around 16.5 joules


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ahhhhhhhh..... 16.5 X 1.2=19.8
I know its not scientific or anything I just like it when I can brag about being onto something

 

[Mroutlaw]

I'm not sure where you're getting your information but until you own it I would think it is hard for you to know these things. If it is pulse width in temp mode I don't really care. The vape in temp mode is amazing, sometimes. In my experience so far with it there has been no consistency in temp mode. I have tried multiple builds with some sucess' but it has been impossible for me to get that amazing vape all the time, or it will start off great and then suddenly it isn't vaping the same. I vape strictly tanks and I wonder if this has something to do with it? I have ordered some nickel coils for my Subtank to try out and see if I get better results.
I don't think it kills batteries any faster/slower than any of my other dozen mods.
The finish is definitely NOT easily damaged as I have already knocked it over a couple of times and it has no signs of even microscratches on it even on the bottom.

Those were all points busardo brought up in his review.

Personally, my biggest complaint with the sx mini m is the battery cap, the gravity sensor (which I know a lot of people like) and the joules thing. Just put it in watts. We also know that nonsense on their website about joules being vapor produced is just a ploy to avoid problems with evolve


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[f1r3b1rd]

I was going to jump right on the SXmini bandwagon but the pulse width modulation in temp limiting puts me off.
Then there's the fact it eats 18650's and has an easily damaged finish.

Definitely unsure about getting it now.

its not PWM in the vamo kid of way at all. its actually way they use to monitor heat in some other applicaions as im coming to discover. i'm struggling to find a way to explain it accurately but think of a welder trying not to get the metal he's trying to fix to bend and disform while heating in to hold a weld. the mod is pulsing the coil in such a way to maintain the temp within a margin of error.
side by side with a dna mod, to me and with my experience its a lot smoother. it would be like going from a vamo to a provari only in temp control mode.

 

[Mroutlaw]

I'm not sure where you're getting your information but until you own it I would think it is hard for you to know these things. If it is pulse width in temp mode I don't really care. The vape in temp mode is amazing, sometimes. In my experience so far with it there has been no consistency in temp mode. I have tried multiple builds with some sucess' but it has been impossible for me to get that amazing vape all the time, or it will start off great and then suddenly it isn't vaping the same. I vape strictly tanks and I wonder if this has something to do with it? I have ordered some nickel coils for my Subtank to try out and see if I get better results.
I don't think it kills batteries any faster/slower than any of my other dozen mods.
The finish is definitely NOT easily damaged as I have already knocked it over a couple of times and it has no signs of even microscratches on it even on the bottom.

Depending on the juice you use, My personal experience is the ni200 coils don't last as long. They seem to get dunked up more, but thats just my experience. I will say that I've found it very difficult to duplicate my builds though. Probably because of the spacing so they're always a little different. Im trying out screws now to see if that helps stay more consistent.

If you're having problems with the same build where sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, check your connections. Both the atty to device and the contacts of the coils. Sometimes after you use a coil, the ni200 softens a little and if you check, your connections may be a little loose. Try and trap your leads under screws instead of using post holes. I just ordered screws and washers to replace the grub nuts on my freakshow and mad hatter.

Lastly, the kanger coils are awesome. They all hit very consistent. they last me about 2 weeks or about 50 ml before i notice any degradation in vape

 

[vapinclouds]

Depending on the juice you use, My personal experience is the ni200 coils don't last as long. They seem to get dunked up more, but thats just my experience. I will say that I've found it very difficult to duplicate my builds though. Probably because of the spacing so they're always a little different. Im trying out screws now to see if that helps stay more consistent.

If you're having problems with the same build where sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, check your connections. Both the atty to device and the contacts of the coils. Sometimes after you use a coil, the ni200 softens a little and if you check, your connections may be a little loose. Try and trap your leads under screws instead of using post holes. I just ordered screws and washers to replace the grub nuts on my freakshow and mad hatter.

Lastly, the kanger coils are awesome. They all hit very consistent. they last me about 2 weeks or about 50 ml before i notice any degradation in vape

Thanks. Now I'm glad I ordered some!

 

[Mroutlaw]

Thanks. Now I'm glad I ordered some!

The only thing I would say is that they're a little expensive, but its convenience . Plus, you spent $200 a temperature limiting mod, you might as well have the right experience and get the coils that always work.

If you like them, fast-tech sells them for around $11 https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009412/2284300-authentic-kangertech-ni200-occ-coil-head-for

Which Kanger do you have? Do you have the rda head?

 

[vapinclouds]

Yes I have the mini w/ rba. Slowtech is where I ordered them from...