Hcigar AQUA dual twisted 28... HELP needed please

[BUDKISS]

I have a number of APV tanks (ie...Kayfun lite plus v2, Taifun GT, Fogger v4, Kaiser) and recently got a Hcigar Aqua clone (after heard good things). I confess, I have never struggled with other builds or tanks as much as I have with this particular one.

Would someone PLEASE offer me some insight and experience.

My first build was a dual micro coil Kathal A1 28 gauge with organic cotton (2mm coil). It registered 1.4 on my iPV2. I followed the wicking advise in online tutorials (and made sure the cotton was filling the juice channels). I made sure the coils were not touching the posts or the chimney (because it is a rather small space). I was SO disappointed at the flavor and vapor production. On top of that i noticed my tank got super warm (actually hot) to the touch.

SO... today i tried a new and different build. I did a twisted 28 (2mm) and made them vertical to keep the coils further away form chimney wall (thinking the small space was causing the heat). Wicked it, juiced it, etc etc. It looked good and tested at .7 ohms. Result? SAME issues... lousy flavor, poor vapor and super HOT.

So dear friends, i am open to suggestions. Am I expecting too much from this atty (like my Kayfun or Taifun) or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Oggy]

I tried the Hcigar Aqua clone also and was NOT impressed. I did get it to vape and the vapor was better than on a Kayfun, but could never get over the heat issues. I never tried one of the poly tanks because I didnt want to spend any more money on it. But i was able to get a good flavor/vapor build on it. Just didnt like the really warm vape or the capacity.

 

[Lefty]

I went to 30ga for my Aqua to resolve the heat issue. Usually come in at 1 ohm but I'm using it with an Origen. Much cooler than any 28ga build I tried. Be sure to not overwick it i.e. get the channels packed too tight. I usually pull them as tight to the posts as I can when coiling (with the drill bit still in) then pull them away from the posts after tightening. I don't want them closer to the bell than they have to be. Just enough to bring them over the airflow. Works for me anyway.

 

[BUDKISS]

SO is the heat issue just something i need to deal with or do you suggest a different build?

 

[Lefty]

Using 30 gauge cools it right down. I just do a standard dual micro, 7 to 8 wraps on a 7/64th. You can adjust wraps and/or diameter to suit.

 

[BUDKISS]

i will try the 30 (or 32).

7 or 8 wraps of 30 kanthal a1 on 7/64th (dual coil set up)... so you end up with about 1ohm?
If my calculations are right 5/64th with end up around .8 (which is about where i am aiming).

SO you think coil size (lower ohm) is causing the heat?

 

[Saddletramp1200]

I am way out of my zone on this one, but if your using a VV/WW you might have it too high. I use my Kayfun @ 3.5 watts. All it wants. 3.7 Volts to 4.2. It gets mad if I crank it up. Tanks are made for crusin' not racin'. IMO

 

[Lefty]

Certainly lower ohms produce more heat as a general rule. Wire gauge also plays a part. Thinner wire will heat up and cool down faster. .8 with 30ga will produce less overall heat than .8 with .28 etc etc.. Yes I used more wraps for 1 ohm, I suggested 7-8 as a starting point, adjust to preference. 32 gauge can be done, I wrapped a 32ga sleeper just playing around that worked quite well but it's not very durable. It's also harder to get a nice tight micro with. 30ga has been a good compromise for me - removed the heat issues but still durable and reasonable vapor and taste.

 

[BUDKISS]

So i decided to rebuild my Aqua coils and rewick.
I did two vertical coils (Kathal 28) at .5 ohms. I wicked around the coils and stuffed juice channels as advised.
I found the flavor better, still not tons of vapor though. Thankfully no leaks or gurgles this time but this sucker STILL gets hot as you know what.
SO... i think i will probable have to use a smaller diameter coil and go with smaller gauge kanthal.
I will try this monday and let you guys know.
(since I am getting 32 I plan to try a clapton coil for one of my RDAs too)

 

[KKen]

I tried the Aqua with a variety of build resistances and wire gauges, and for me, find that it really shines at .7-.8ohms. Its a warmer, denser vape than the Kayfun, but then again, I find the optimal build for a Kayfun is 1.1-1.25 ohms, so hard to really compare the two and say which one is "better."

Going back to the Aqua though, here is a pic I posted in another thread that might be useful:

 

[BUDKISS]

Thank you. I will give that a try.
Right now I have dual coils (twisted 28). It come in at .5ohms
Maybe i made some improvements on wicking because i am not leaking but it still gets really warm and the vapor production is really low (but flavor is ok). Maybe I am expecting too much from this tank (compared to taifun or kayfun).

KKen, what gauge was the photo? and can you tell me more about your wicking process.

 

[KKen]

Its 28g wire, the coil pictured came out to .77ohms, 12 wraps apiece. Diameter is 1/16th so the cotton wick was just the right size for the juice channels. The tail end thins out a bit and doesn't go beyond the bottom.

Vapor is noticeably denser than my Kayfun, but I wouldn't say flavor is better or worse; just different since the tanks are running at different resistances.

I will edge the Kayfun as my favorite though, but still enjoy using the Aqua.

 

[CaFF]

I have two Aqua's from Angelcigs. Made by Ivogo.

I have this build on both of 'em.

Twisted 33 AWG, 7 wraps on 1.8mm screwdriver for 1.0-1.1 ohms, wicked with cotton usually but I've used Tencel and Cellocotton too.

You'll find that the 1.8mm size fits the channels perfectly when wicked. This ain't a dripper, ya need a nice "loose" wick in the coil to allow it to swell up and fit well and still allow wicking. It's a pretty small RTA.

I fill the vertical channel loosely when dry so it has room to swell, but not the horizontal one.
I also taper the ends slightly like KKen does.

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/post-your-builds.737/page-5#post-39633

 

[BUDKISS]

thanks. You seem to have it down. Im still experimenting a bit.

I get a lot of heat on atty. do you?

 

[CaFF]

thanks. You seem to have it down. Im still experimenting a bit.

I get a lot of heat on atty. do you?

Thanks! it was a battle at first.

Nah, not really hot. I also don't sub-ohm the thing. There's really no need to.

Be sure the airflow under the coils isn't blocked. I build my coils as high up as possible off the deck - you also don't want to melt that positive post insulator...I have. It's a PITA to remove then and there are no spares. (you can use the insulator from a protank head in a pinch though)

How I vape mine is the opposite of the Fogger: chimney closed and airflow open to halfway exposing the holes. Seems to work for me.

Remember too, when you twist that tank to open the air, you probably are opening the chimney too, so check it.

 

[Lefty]

wicked with cotton usually but I've used Tencel and Cellocotton too.

I didn't have much luck with the cellucotton on this one but it was early on with the cellucotton. Tendency to dry hit I think caused by too much in the channels caused by needing more in the coils. Considered thinning it for the channels only but took the lazy route and just used cotton. Glad to know that thinning it does work. I like the rayon but it is a little harder to handle and seems to have a narrower sweet spot. Now if the Japanese stuff ever gets here...

 

[BUDKISS]

Just rebuilt the coils in my aqua. I did a standard horizontal dual coil build of 30 gauge kathal A1.
(Replaced the twisted 30 vertical dual coils i had in there before. I was trying to do a chimney thing over those airholes).
I also cut back a bit on my wicking and made sure air holes were not obstructed.
I ended up with 1.3 ohms. I will likely take a couple wraps off and try it again when i finish this tank of juice.
It does seem to be hitting better and not as hot. So far no leaks.