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Help - Steam Engine And Real Life Coil Specs Don't Match

CrazyChef

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I made a couple of staged fused Clapton coils for a buddy of mine, but I can't pulse them on my iStick 100W. It won't go lower than 0.15Ω. Steam Engine says that one coil should be approximately 0.358Ω, so a dual coil setup should be half of that (0.179Ω), right? This dual coil setup is coming in at 0.11Ω...

I need to pulse these, but I can't. My buddy has a Sigelei 150 TC so I can pulse it for him on his mod, but that's still not going to solve the problem.

Any ideas on what went wrong? 0.11-0.179 is a big difference...

Here's a few pics of what I entered into Steam Engine and the coil setup.

Wire-Wizard.png

Mike1.jpg

Mike2.jpg
 

CrazyChef

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I know the one positive lead on the right (going through the post hole) looks like it's touching the top coil, but it's actually about 3mm below it.
 

zaroba

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Honestly, I've never found steam engine to match the coils I've made. And these were just plain standard coils. Probably a lot more variables with the fancier clapton etc coils so could be more inaccurate with them.
 

CrazyChef

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Yeah, kinda sucks though when I'm running so close to the lower limit.
 

Maximumoverdrive

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That's a good looking build Crazychef. I noticed 2 things. First is I see is that the build is actually 5.5 wrap on the 26ga & 6.5 wrap on the Clapton but Wire Wizard is set to 7wraps. Also the leg length is set to short @2mm that would mean each leg on the coil is only .040"! 5mm is more likely or .100" per leg. The other big factor here is that the coils have not been oxidized/dry burned yet so basically your .11Ω includes the hot legs/shorts etc. When I'm getting close to the lower limit I torch the coils to a nice glow before installing them. The coils ohm a lot closer to where they should from the beginning when torched.

The longer version is that from my experience contact coils/claptons etc. don't read rite until they have been dry pulsed or in other words fully oxidized.
Think of the thin oxidized layer that forms when you glow the coils as electrical insulation. That thin oxidized layer is what makes contact coils possible.
For Ref I just did 2 builds last night with 2 versions of NiFe 52. 1st build should have been .35Ω per Steam Engine, but started at .23Ω before pulsing. Once oxidized it is a steady .36Ω. The second build (plus 1 wrap) different alloy should be lower at .33Ω per S.E. but started at .27Ω before oxidize & ended at .32Ω after pulsing.
 

robot zombie

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There are a lot of factors that can affect readings. Steam engine is more detailed than it even appears to be, but even it is not capable of perfect accuracy.

Claptons, I've noticed, tend to have shorts that jump from section to section before everything is properly oxidized. Simply working out the shorts can change your resistance significantly. Very rarely will a fresh clapton read as it does initially. Sometimes, it gets a little worse after the first few pulses, when the pathways between semi-oxidized patches form a mainline for current to jump through.

I will say that I've had some builds that sat literally .004 away from the projected resistance right off of the bat and stayed there. It tends to happen most often with my dual and triple parallel builds. Maybe it has something to do with the straightening of the wire. Or maybe it's because the two or three leads that are touching are each carrying their own current at similar resistances. No clue, there.

Another thing that can happen is a connection short. A coil can ohm lower than it should if the current is being split at the connection. Or perhaps it's more accurate to call it uneven contact across the surface of the wire in the post. When this happens, you will see numbers that seem mathematically impossible for a coil that's firing evenly. I've seen a coil's resistance be cut in half after pulsing only to double back up to where it should be with a quarter-turn of a screw.

Sometimes, you have to tighten it down a little more or back it out and bring it back down to get it to read and fire enough for you to oxidize. As you work the kinks out and continue slightly tamping the connection down while the leads are still hot, the resistance should get back up to where it should be. You just have to be very gradual to avoid clipping anything. It can take some time.

I've noticed that I have this problem quite a lot with the Mutation X v4 that you're building on. It performs great, but it has connection problems. I hate building on the thing, myself. The posts themselves are bored-out too deep (I'm talking about from the holes the screws go into,) the tolerances for the threading don't quite match the screws, and the post holes are as thin as they are jagged. They have a tendency to essentially require you to pull too much wire in to get a secure grip and really mess up the wire inside the post holes in the process. Sometimes, it takes some doing to get a coil to properly settle in.

I'm sure that this all sounds like nonsense, but I'm telling you, I've seen it happen!
 
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CrazyChef

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Actually, that all makes perfect sense. Thanks! :)
 

dre

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You could back out the negative screws so the resistance is high enough to work out the hot spots. Then tighten them back up. Do at your own risk.

from Tapatalk
 

mkhilario

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I usually add an extra wrap to the steam engine results. The temperature data is the most important thing I get from their coil page.
 

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