Help understanding terminology etc

[Mr. Black]

Hi everyone, new to vaping here and was hoping people might help me understand what VW, ohms and other things to help me get the most out of my setup. I'm currently using a Reuleaux 2/3 (2 batteries) and an Avocado tank with two coils that a friend put together for me. I haven't had any success building coils so I bought a Coilmaster jig set, wire cutters and an ohm reader. Many thanks, everyone was very welcoming when I introduced myself!

 

[RubenAlonzo]

Hi there, I'm new myself and I have the SMOK AL85, I will try to answer your questions from little I know but here goes:

VW = Variable Wattage. This means ANY atomizer (Mod or device) that has this feature, you adjust the wattage to your liking, for example my mod can be adjusted all the way to 85 watts. I normally vape at 35. Some pre-made coils work better at different wattages compared to others. For example my mod came bundled with a coil and a spare. One coil works best between 50-65 and the other between 40-55. Personally I still vape them at 35 because that is I feel is best for ME. Your mileage may vary.

VT = Variable Temperature. This means exactly like the VW, the temperature can be adjusted to your liking to burn hotter.

Ohms = This has to do with resistance. Every time you wrap, every single wrap adjusts increases the resistance, note too that the gauge of wire will provide its own inherent resistance due to thickness. Thicker wire will resist an electrical current more so than a thinner wire.

I just started last week, have been smoke free for 7 whole days and enjoying the benefits. I hope my limited understanding helped you out.

P.S> Congrasts on your new tank, I was looking at that BUT I want to start building my own coild with a single coil tank apart from the dual like you have, I am getting the AMMIT RTA myself along the Coil Master DIY kit which is bundled with the Tab 2 Mini and the Jigs.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this video tutorial:

 

[Mr. Black]

Awesome, thanks man! Can you help me out with how resistance is relevant to how I vape? Or what's optimal? I've found 40 watts works for me.. Thanks for your help and congratulations on being smoke free! I'm still working on it..

 

[Mr. Black]

Hi there, I'm new myself and I have the SMOK AL85, I will try to answer your questions from little I know but here goes:

VW = Variable Wattage. This means ANY atomizer (Mod or device) that has this feature, you adjust the wattage to your liking, for example my mod can be adjusted all the way to 85 watts. I normally vape at 35. Some pre-made coils work better at different wattages compared to others. For example my mod came bundled with a coil and a spare. One coil works best between 50-65 and the other between 40-55. Personally I still vape them at 35 because that is I feel is best for ME. Your mileage may vary.

VT = Variable Temperature. This means exactly like the VW, the temperature can be adjusted to your liking to burn hotter.

Ohms = This has to do with resistance. Every time you wrap, every single wrap adjusts increases the resistance, note too that the gauge of wire will provide its own inherent resistance due to thickness. Thicker wire will resist an electrical current more so than a thinner wire.

I just started last week, have been smoke free for 7 whole days and enjoying the benefits. I hope my limited understanding helped you out.

P.S> Congrasts on your new tank, I was looking at that BUT I want to start building my own coild with a single coil tank apart from the dual like you have, I am getting the AMMIT RTA myself along the Coil Master DIY kit which is bundled with the Tab 2 Mini and the Jigs.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this video tutorial:

Thanks for the link! The tank so far is awesome, it's the easiest to build on from what the guy at the vape shop said. It also comes with ceramic plugs so you can run a single coil if you like, I did and it was awesome with the vent all the way open right where the coil is..

 

[Khassy]

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/awesome-video-for-vaping-101-for-beginners.207549/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/my-first-electronic-cigarette-kit-tip-and-tricks.195/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/quick-start-vapor-guide-for-a-new-vapor.204757/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/vape-terminology-and-definitions.114848/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/vapers-glossary.231/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/definition-of-electronic-cigarettes.182/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/ecigs-from-a-z-terminology.199/

http://vapingunderground.com/#builders-corner.136

 

[IMFire3605]

Hi there, I'm new myself and I have the SMOK AL85, I will try to answer your questions from little I know but here goes:

VW = Variable Wattage. This means ANY atomizer (Mod or device) that has this feature, you adjust the wattage to your liking, for example my mod can be adjusted all the way to 85 watts. I normally vape at 35. Some pre-made coils work better at different wattages compared to others. For example my mod came bundled with a coil and a spare. One coil works best between 50-65 and the other between 40-55. Personally I still vape them at 35 because that is I feel is best for ME. Your mileage may vary.

VT = Variable Temperature. This means exactly like the VW, the temperature can be adjusted to your liking to burn hotter.

Ohms = This has to do with resistance. Every time you wrap, every single wrap adjusts increases the resistance, note too that the gauge of wire will provide its own inherent resistance due to thickness. Thicker wire will resist an electrical current more so than a thinner wire.

I just started last week, have been smoke free for 7 whole days and enjoying the benefits. I hope my limited understanding helped you out.

P.S> Congrasts on your new tank, I was looking at that BUT I want to start building my own coild with a single coil tank apart from the dual like you have, I am getting the AMMIT RTA myself along the Coil Master DIY kit which is bundled with the Tab 2 Mini and the Jigs.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this video tutorial:

Minor correction highlighted in red. Wire gauge, thinner wire has more resistance than thicker wire, analogy, 32awg very thin wire is a residential street road, very little traffic can go throught it, single lane each way, where 24awg thicker wire has less resistance and can handle more traffic flow, analogy a 4-lane highway in both directions.

 

[Mr. Black]

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/awesome-video-for-vaping-101-for-beginners.207549/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/my-first-electronic-cigarette-kit-tip-and-tricks.195/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/quick-start-vapor-guide-for-a-new-vapor.204757/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/vape-terminology-and-definitions.114848/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/vapers-glossary.231/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/definition-of-electronic-cigarettes.182/

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/ecigs-from-a-z-terminology.199/

http://vapingunderground.com/#builders-corner.136

Very helpful, thank you!

 

[RubenAlonzo]

Awesome, thanks man! Can you help me out with how resistance is relevant to how I vape? Or what's optimal? I've found 40 watts works for me.. Thanks for your help and congratulations on being smoke free! I'm still working on it..

Both your Mod (Reuleaux 2/3) and mine (SMOK AL85) are what what are commonly known as "Regulated Mods", they have circuitry in place to operate them relatively safely. If we place the battery in them incorrectly for example, we will get an error message on the display. If we use a coil in them that is somehow 'off', we will get an error message as well. Our mods are for beginners and veterans alike that simply want to reap the benefits of vaping without having to do 'too much math' when it comes to rebuilding our coils etc.

This of it this way: You have a couple of cars and you want to drag race them both. One is has a manual transmission and you have to watch your know your torque curve in order to pop the clutch at the right RPM in order to not peel out excessively at launch.

The other has an automatic transmission with the flappy paddles and launch control. With that one, you push a couple of buttons on the dash, hold the brake and gas pedals down, and the onboard computer does the rest. It holds the RPM's at optimal so when you let go of the brake the car launches perfect every time.

THANK YOU for the correction IMFIRE3605!​

Ours is the flappy paddle car with launch control. No muss, no fuss, perfect everytime.

Unregulated mods are the manual tranny cars, they can be tricky because you REALLY need to know what you are doing. Very little if ANY margin for error BUT the reward is generally, a manual transmission can wipe the floor against an auto-tranny car simply because you have control of every variable when it comes to launching. BUT, and here is the kicker, you REALLY know to know your stuff because if your don't know what you are doing, you can blow your engine, burn out your clutch, stall at launch etc.

Don't worry about rebuilding your own coils, as long as you are using the regulated mod, you are in good hands. Do a little YouTube persusing like I have and get to know how to built them properly. I still do not understand all of it really, but I get a little wiser everyday, especially with the help and support and from the good people here in this forum. I have included a link to the STEAM CALCULATOR which will help you understand a bit more, as well as calculate for you the number of wraps for each coil you will need.

As far as what is optimal, there is none, we are all different, I like to Vape at 35 to no more than 40 watts, others prefer 100 + watts because their mods allow them to.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?

 

[Mr. Black]

Both your Mod (Reuleaux 2/3) and mine (SMOK AL85) are what what are commonly known as "Regulated Mods", they have circuitry in place to operate them relatively safely. If we place the battery in them incorrectly for example, we will get an error message on the display. If we use a coil in them that is somehow 'off', we will get an error message as well. Our mods are for beginners and veterans alike that simply want to reap the benefits of vaping without having to do 'too much math' when it comes to rebuilding our coils etc.

This of it this way: You have a couple of cars and you want to drag race them both. One is has a manual transmission and you have to watch your know your torque curve in order to pop the clutch at the right RPM in order to not peel out excessively at launch.

The other has an automatic transmission with the flappy paddles and launch control. With that one, you push a couple of buttons on the dash, hold the brake and gas pedals down, and the onboard computer does the rest. It holds the RPM's at optimal so when you let go of the brake the car launches perfect every time.

THANK YOU for the correction IMFIRE3605!​

Ours is the flappy paddle car with launch control. No muss, no fuss, perfect everytime.

Unregulated mods are the manual tranny cars, they can be tricky because you REALLY need to know what you are doing. Very little if ANY margin for error BUT the reward is generally, a manual transmission can wipe the floor against an auto-tranny car simply because you have control of every variable when it comes to launching. BUT, and here is the kicker, you REALLY know to know your stuff because if your don't know what you are doing, you can blow your engine, burn out your clutch, stall at launch etc.

Don't worry about rebuilding your own coils, as long as you are using the regulated mod, you are in good hands. Do a little YouTube persusing like I have and get to know how to built them properly. I still do not understand all of it really, but I get a little wiser everyday, especially with the help and support and from the good people here in this forum. I have included a link to the STEAM CALCULATOR which will help you understand a bit more, as well as calculate for you the number of wraps for each coil you will need.

As far as what is optimal, there is none, we are all different, I like to Vape at 35 to no more than 40 watts, others prefer 100 + watts because their mods allow them to.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?

Thanks very much for your help! Coming around every day

 

[Synphul]

Everyone pretty much covered the various info on the mod. So long as ohms are within spec of the mod it should be fine and being a regulated mod the device can be adjusted to work with a variety of resistance. It's good to have at least a general idea of what resistance your coils are reading at, if nothing else for reference in case it starts acting up.

When vaping, does the vape suddenly feel cooler? hotter? Does the mod throw up a warning of some sort? Looking at the ohms, if you notice a variation that could indicate an issue like the atomizer needing removed, the mod reset and reattach the atomizer to get fresh readings off the coils. Maybe a loose coil or something else. As an example in that pic your coils are coming out to .44 ohms. If something seems 'off' in your vaping and you look down at the screen, is it still .44 or did it change to .54 or .6ohms. If no other reason that's why it helps (for me anyway) to have an idea where resistance is at.

That's about the same resistance my coils are at on my avocado, I tend to run mine around 45-55w. Nothing fancy just single spaced coils with 6 wraps of 26g ss316L wire at the moment. If the vape seems too hot, adjust the wattage down. If you'd like it warmer, raise it up a few watts. More watts = more heat and can sometimes alter the flavor of the vape, making it a fuller flavor or bringing particular flavors out more than a cooler vape would.

The resistance somewhat goes hand in hand with how much wattage to apply to heat it up. Higher resistance coils don't need as much power in watts, lower resistance builds require more power. Since you don't have to build exact with resistance like with a mech mod (where resistance is the only way to control the heat) it's not as much of an issue.

Where it does somewhat come into play is with coils. Rather than building low on purpose you may find that a larger or more complex multi wire coil ends up being a lower resistance by the nature of more wire mass and therefor requires higher wattage. Instead of building low to get a specific type of vape you may end up choosing a specific type of coil and it ends up being lower resistance.

Right this minute I'm using an ammit tank with a single coil and it's set at 42w. My resistance is .22 ohms. I didn't purposely make a coil to achieve .22 ohms, I installed a coil that's made of several wires, a half staggered fused clapton. The choice was made to go with a coil that has several irregularities and nooks and crannies to more efficiently vaporize the juice for flavor. In doing so, the additional wires that make up the coil over a single plain coiled bit of wire dropped my resistance and therefor needs additional wattage to get it heating up. Lower resistance was just the byproduct of going that route. If it was a simple plain coil made by wrapping a single strand of wire in roughly the same gauge wire and I pushed 42w to it, it would probably singe my wick.

Another aspect I've found with more complex coils along with the lower resistance, it gives finer control over the vape. When using smaller single wire coils with a mouth to lung setup (or even somewhat in direct lung like the avocado), the amount of watts between no vapor and too hot (burnt juice/wicks) is a lot less. Maybe at 18w there's little vapor but at 30w it's bordering on burning the juice. With a lower resistance multiwire coil like I've got in the ammit (.22ohm) 25w there's very little vapor. 42-44w is a mild warm enjoyable vape (for me). 50w is a slightly warmer vape. 60w is starting to get fairly warm and my drags are shorter to prevent scalding the vape. 70w and it's getting pretty warm for me, not all that enjoyable personally but not completely burnt so long as I limit my pulls to around 1.5-2 seconds. In contrast to a thinner coil a heavier or multi wire coil gives me a wider 'window' of wattage to choose from, around 30w or so vs maybe 12-15w between 'not enough' and 'too much'.

Thicker or more wires making up a coil, increasing the mass, generally means slower to heat up and slower to cool down. Thin single coils heat up quickly and cool down quickly and don't hold as much heat. The settings I'm using for mine is just what I enjoy, not the only way to go about it. I just pointed it out for reference and to try to give examples. Sorry for the long winded post, hopefully the examples from my experiences help you out a bit in terms of adjusting to your own preferences.