Help with ipv3 and ohm readings??

[RahPat21]

So I've recently got a Ipv3( about 3 weeks now), and when I first got it, I got my coils built for me and it was working fine. Then after about a week I put in new coils which I built myself and for some reason the ohm readings kept jumping. So I went back to the shop had them re-build it and it's the same thing. It was a .7, but it jumps anywhere from .7 to 1.2 ohms. I've tried, tighting up my posts, and even making sure my atty was screwed on proper still the same problem. I'm not new to vaping and have been using RDA's for a while now and have never had this problem. I can't even test out my Tobh atty on any other mod because I sold everything I owned to buy my ipv3 and new Tobh atty.
So has anyone else had this problem on their ipv3? I haven't been able to find anything on it anywhere.
Also does anyone know a fix to this or why it's happening?

 

[travanx]

I notice this happens if the 510 connection isn't making good enough contact. Can you adjust that?

 

[RahPat21]

I can adjust the pin on my Tobh atty. I'll just do one turn( unscrewing it).
But when I had my other Tobh atty and I would adjust it, the center post would come loose and sort of just be out of the screw, so even if it fixes my ohm problem, another problem may arise(the center post unscrewing and becoming loose).
But I'll try it and see how it goes so thanks.

 

[RahPat21]

I notice this happens if the 510 connection isn't making good enough contact. Can you adjust that?

Yea so that didn't, work I put in a dual 26 gauge 12 wrap and unscrewed the pin on the Tobh a little. It stayed the same around .7 for a while then started jumping again. It went from .7-1.5 ohms.
I'm just going to put the pin back as it was clean everything and put in a new build and see what happens now. Thanks

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

Yea so that didn't, work I put in a dual 26 gauge 12 wrap and unscrewed the pin on the Tobh a little. It stayed the same around .7 for a while then started jumping again. It went from .7-1.5 ohms.
I'm just going to put the pin back as it was clean everything and put in a new build and see what happens now. Thanks

I have had an IPV3 for a bit more than two weeks now. I had this happen on one tank after a re wick, and the positive lead was loose when I disassembled. Sounds like you've eliminated that possibility, though. If ohms are wandering up, as has been said, it's usually a poor connection somewhere, usually 510, but can be a lead. Are your leads secure after wicking, and not shifting at all? My solution on my finicky kayfun was to do a full loop around the the screw post, but rda's usually have holes for the wire. Make sure they're secure, though I know that is obvious. Took me too long to figure out such a simple solution, lol. Good luck man! The IPV is awesome!

 

[RahPat21]

I have had an IPV3 for a bit more than two weeks now. I had this happen on one tank after a re wick, and the positive lead was loose when I disassembled. Sounds like you've eliminated that possibility, though. If ohms are wandering up, as has been said, it's usually a poor connection somewhere, usually 510, but can be a lead. Are your leads secure after wicking, and not shifting at all? My solution on my finicky kayfun was to do a full loop around the the screw post, but rda's usually have holes for the wire. Make sure they're secure, though I know that is obvious. Took me too long to figure out such a simple solution, lol. Good luck man! The IPV is awesome!

So basically tighten the leads as much as possible, making sure the screws don't break the leads? The thing is this only started happening when I built it myself, I did a dual 26 gauge 11 wrap, and when I went to fire the coils and fix them up one of the leads burned out, so I had to make a new one but after that it started jumping and every build I put in just jumps with each hit.
Do you think it might be a problem with my Tobh rda or even worse the ipv3? If it's with the rda I can buy a new one but if it's with the ipv3 I'm gunna be pissed, does their warranty cover anything like a replacement maybe? Well thanks for the advice though.

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

So basically tighten the leads as much as possible, making sure the screws don't break the leads? The thing is this only started happening when I built it myself, I did a dual 26 gauge 11 wrap, and when I went to fire the coils and fix them up one of the leads burned out, so I had to make a new one but after that it started jumping and every build I put in just jumps with each hit.
Do you think it might be a problem with my Tobh rda or even worse the ipv3? If it's with the rda I can buy a new one but if it's with the ipv3 I'm gunna be pissed, does their warranty cover anything like a replacement maybe? Well thanks for the advice though.

You want those leads secure, and you also want to check resistance after wicking, since it can shift them and possibly loosen the post screws, too. What are you using to check resistance?

It could be the atty, or the device. I think you should go to the shop that you purchased it from that built it for you and ask for help, and have them run through some troubleshooting with you. I don't know how long you've been building, but I know even after close to a year I suck at dual coils. Maybe try a single coil and see what happens. If it's jumping and everything's secure, try another using the other negative post and see what happens. You might find that one of the posts is having issues. Kinda work through all possibilities, but honestly, a trip to the shop sounds like a good plan.

If it is the IPV3 they should cover it. You should have a warranty card and it is through Asmodus, though I've heard bad things about dealing with them. I'm thinking it's probably something besides the device. Do you have any other attys, and an ohm reader, or multimeter?

 

[RahPat21]

You want those leads secure, and you also want to check resistance after wicking, since it can shift them and possibly loosen the post screws, too. What are you using to check resistance?

It could be the atty, or the device. I think you should go to the shop that you purchased it from that built it for you and ask for help, and have them run through some troubleshooting with you. I don't know how long you've been building, but I know even after close to a year I suck at dual coils. Maybe try a single coil and see what happens. If it's jumping and everything's secure, try another using the other negative post and see what happens. You might find that one of the posts is having issues. Kinda work through all possibilities, but honestly, a trip to the shop sounds like a good plan.

If it is the IPV3 they should cover it. You should have a warranty card and it is through Asmodus, though I've heard bad things about dealing with them. I'm thinking it's probably something besides the device. Do you have any other attys, and an ohm reader, or multimeter?

I've been vaping for around 2 years and building for about a year. I've never really had a problem with building coils since I'm used to using lower gauges(26,24,22) since their easier to work with. And I can't do single coils I'm more of a dual coil user. I'm using my ipv3 and my ohm reader to check resistance and they both have different readings so I don't know what's going on there either I also can't test out any other RDA because I sold all I had in order to get the ipv3 and new Tobh. And the guys at the vape shop said things I already knew(tighten posts and RDA...). But I guess until I have the money for a new RDA I'll just have to keep messing around with this I'll figure it out eventually.

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

I've been vaping for around 2 years and building for about a year. I've never really had a problem with building coils since I'm used to using lower gauges(26,24,22) since their easier to work with. And I can't do single coils I'm more of a dual coil user. I'm using my ipv3 and my ohm reader to check resistance and they both have different readings so I don't know what's going on there either I also can't test out any other RDA because I sold all I had in order to get the ipv3 and new Tobh. And the guys at the vape shop said things I already knew(tighten posts and RDA...). But I guess until I have the money for a new RDA I'll just have to keep messing around with this I'll figure it out eventually.

Gotcha, maybe see if the shop will let you put some attys on that you all are certain of the resistance and see if they react the same? Another troubleshooting method there. Also, how secure is your adjustable 510. My kayfun blacks would screw in when I screwed the attys on, so I put fill hole gaskets on them to hold them snug. If your atty has a 510 that's a bit easy to turn, once it makes contact with the spring loaded pin it might be turning in as you screw it flush.

I'd really attempt to try some other attys, if you got it at the shop they should let you do so. Then you will know for sure if it's the device or not. Just a thought or two. I hope you figure it out.

 

[CgS_Drone]

Do you have a DMM to test the ohm's on the RDA, this way you can see which one of your devices is giving the false reading. Even when it appeared to be working right where you getting any weak hits from it? Not saying it is the ipv3 but I'm leaning towards a bad connection in the device somewhere that is causing the issue, possibly a cold soldier joint.

 

[RahPat21]

Well I guess I kind of figured it out. This time I put in the same build but I made sure that the leads in the positive post were next to each other rather then on top of each other. I screwed it down tight with them next to each other and its stayed at .7 ohms all day, no more jumping. But I won't be able to have it like that with my 24 or 22 gauge. And I'm still getting different readings on my ohm tester and ipv3, I'll just pick up DMM and test out different builds and wires but for now it's good.

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

Well I guess I kind of figured it out. This time I put in the same build but I made sure that the leads in the positive post were next to each other rather then on top of each other. I screwed it down tight with them next to each other and its stayed at .7 ohms all day, no more jumping. But I won't be able to have it like that with my 24 or 22 gauge. And I'm still getting different readings on my ohm tester and ipv3, I'll just pick up DMM and test out different builds and wires but for now it's good.

Sounds like you might need a different atty for your preferred build, but glad your device is good. It shouldn't be far off, but your ohm reader might differ +- .1 or so from the IPV3. Multimeters are cheap, though, I mainly use mine to obsessively check my batteries.

 

[Blues]

I've been wondering the same thing with my IPV 3.. My unit is consistently about .06 to .08 ohms from what my DMM, ohm reader, and Provari.. Is this normal ?? Is anyone else having this problem with the IPV 3 too ???

 

[RahPat21]

I've been wondering the same thing with my IPV 3.. My unit is consistently about .06 to .08 ohms from what my DMM, ohm reader, and Provari.. Is this normal ?? Is anyone else having this problem with the IPV 3 too ???

Not that I've found, I tried looking at other forums but haven't found anything on ipv3 with this problem. I'm not sure if I fixed the problem or if my ipv3 just stopped jumping. But you could try what I did, if your building dual coils make sure that the leads in the positive post are side by side not on top of each other so the screw makes a good connection with both leads, and have all the post screws tightened as much as possible and make sure your atty is screwed on securely as well. And I guess for single coils have all screws tight and the atty securely tightened on. Hopefully your problem will stop like mine did.

 

[Detta85]

I just got the IPV3 last week, and I noticed a difference in resistance which has led me to this thread.

Basically I have a quad coil set up on my Wotofo Sapor RDA, and each coil is a 6-wrap of 24g Kanthol (2.5mm diameter). When I have the IPV3 set to wattage mode, it says the resistance is .12, which sounds about right. But when I switch to TC mode, it says it's .54 ohms. I don't have an ohm-reader at the moment to check, but I feel like the .12 reading is correct. The odd part is that it's doing this reliably: without touching or tightening any part of the RDA, it still reads differently just from switching modes.

Anyways, I looked at the instructions and noticed that it says that the recommended resistance (in TC mode) is between 0.05 ohms and 0.3 ohms. Possibly something gets thrown off if your resistance is significantly higher than that? I mean it'd be kinda stupid, but 0.7 IS much higher than 0.3 if that's the actual range. I don't know. Mine seems to be firing fine even though it's not reading correctly.
Seems like a slightly different problem, but thought I'd post here anyways.

 

[5150sick]

It could be because kanthal doesn't work (properly) in TC mode maybe?
For TC you need Nickel (NI200) Titanium, or Stainless
Some mods only do NI some have NI & TI and some have all 3.
The only mod that supposedly works in TC with kanthal is the ijoy asolo and it doesn't really work how the other wires do.

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

I'm assuming it's the ipv3 Li and if so, you can do TC with NI200 or Titanium. If that coil you describe is one of those wires, you need to lock the resistance of the atty when at room temperature by pressing plus and minus simultaneously. Do this prior to firing at all. The mod requires you to lock in the resistance for TC. If it is a kanthal build, as it sounds, it's already been said. TC doesn't work for kanthal. The only explanation for the resistance changes I can think of is that it is a nickel or titanium coil, and your not locking resistance. In that case, as the wire heats, resistance will increase, and it will display as such when fired.

What is the coil built with? Your wraps gauge and id lead me to believe if it's a quad coil it's definitely kanthal. If you can build a quad coil with nickel, you have serious talent. Lol. Hope this helped somehow.

 

[Detta85]

I was talking to my friend yesterday after posting and he told me the same thing about Kanthol. This probably is responsible for the discrepancy in TC mode, and yes the quad coil build is Kanthol. Do you need to lock in resistance for the wattage mode? I didn't see anything about it in the instructions.
Regardless, I'll just be using it in wattage mode. At some point I might try the same build with nickel to use the TC function, but in my experience so far I prefer Kanthol wire.
Aside from that, though, I'm pretty happy with the IPV3. =)

Thanks for the info guys!