I'm new to Temp Control and I need help!

[Jack Merridew]

I'm considering buying a Sigelei mini 75W along with an Orchid V6. Problem is I don't know a thing about Temp Control. I do know that resistance is extremely low with nickel build and that kind of scares me, since I usually vape at around 1ohm.

Could somebody please explain the difference between nickel and kanthal? I don't want to make the switch and regret buying the mod. Also are dual coils suitable for temp control?

Thanks in advance!

 

[conanthewarrior]

I own the Sig 75Watt, IPV D2, and Smok Xcube 2. Out of the 3, the Sig75 does TC the worst (Thats not to say it does not work though, it just doesn't do it as well).

For the price, you could get a D2 which is actually cheaper, 75 watt/50 joule in TC mode.

Getting onto your question,buy TEMPERED NI200. It is not soft like normal NI200, so It will feel like you are building with kanthal. Get some 30, 28, and 26 gauge (I use 26 for Single coils, 30 for dual coils as it is otherwise too many wraps).

It takes about 13 wraps a side for dual coil with 30 gauge, with 26 gauge it is about 30 so not possible really lol, that is round a 2mm driver so if you want less wraps use a 3MM, but I found 2mm to be the best as I only have 30 and 26 gauge at the moment. 28 Is more ideal as it will be about 10 wraps.

Its not scary, do not be scared. Your device is simply stepping down the voltage when it hits your set temp, to try and keep it around that temp, once it is reached, it will drop power, untill it reches heat again, then drop, and this happens multiple times in one 5 second pull (or 3 Second, whatever you like really)

With 30 gauge it is 6 wraps around a 2MM driver, to get 0.1 which is within TC's working range. If I want it lower, I simply remove one wrap and it usually is between 0.06-0.08 Ohms.

Its not any more dangerous than vaping normally, they are designed for using really low builds, thats how the TC works, they are working on TC with kanthal but it is hard as the resitance is much higher.

I hope this helped, I was also scared myself at first, even though I owned a 150 sig and such, but there is nothing to fear.

I only use a 25R now, they are the best all round battery, and going over a few amps should not be bad I have been told by a battery expert as samsung is liberal in their battery ratings.

As long as you follow safety advice, charge safely, and try to keep within amp Limits, you will be fine.

If you have any questions feel free to ask more on here, or I don't mind a PM if you want more peace of mind. I do have more of an understanding of standard regulated devices, but also now know TC devices due to another forum I visit.

Enjoy your new vape! Please dont get the Sig 75, they are releasing a sig 75 watt pluss to rectify issues in the original, like only getting 20 or so full pwer pulls, they are using a 26650 in the new one which makes more sense, and 18650 does work fine, but you will not get long at 50 watts +.

I usually use mine in TC at 40 watts max, usually 30 watts set at 250C and I get a fair battery life, but the D2 beats it easliy. I would either get the D2 or wait for the new Sig 75.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I forgot to add, the sig 75 only does NI200, some people have an allergy, the D2 also does titanium TC , and does it well.

I guess this will be added in the Sig 75 Plus when it is released. Not sure how long that will be, but I doubt it will be a long time.

As an honest sig owner, the D2 does actually win In TC mode. There is a simple workaround as there is no step down in power mode, you keep it in joule mode, select a NI200 coil, and whack the temp u to 300C.

It realises it is kanthal not in TC range, and allows you to fire from 7 Watts to 30 watts, if you want to use more use power mode.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

All mods that will do temp control with ni200 will also work with titanium. Just subtract roughly 100°.
Also throwing out the evic VT or VT mini.
Don't worry about building so low. Like was already stated it will constantly drop wattage or joules. It won't put out a constant power. Besides, they're regulated devices which have safety features built in.

Ni200 or Titanium grade 1, the device senses the slight change in resistance when heated and calculates the temp based on that. Kanthal is a composite metal and isn't consistent enough to do this.

 

[conanthewarrior]

All mods that will do temp control with ni200 will also work with titanium. Just subtract roughly 100°.
Also throwing out the evic VT or VT mini.
Don't worry about building so low. Like was already stated it will constantly drop wattage or joules. It won't put out a constant power. Besides, they're regulated devices which have safety features built in.

Ni200 or Titanium grade 1, the device senses the slight change in resistance when heated and calculates the temp based on that. Kanthal is a composite metal and isn't consistent enough to do this.

CurlyxCracker you are right, I forgot to include that. I just felt that the IPV D2 is better for out and about, and battery life. I do also use the sigelei out and about, but if I want it to last all day I have to keep it under 30, with the D2 I can go to 40 if I want.

I wasn't really into the TC boat myself, but after realising I wasn't allergic to nickel and just had a throat and chest infection, it has revolutionised my vaping. My lemo V2 would very rarely dry hit, now this possibility is eliminated, it never did when I first got it but started to. Figured out the problem, the lemo likes a LOT of wick, while on a lot of other tanks less is more in a kind of way, so had been adding too little wick for a month or so due to getting easily confused.

BUT, It is lovely now with the Lemo on TC, that works nicer on the SIgelei or the IPV D2 as you can adjust wattage, on the smok it just gets up to temp real quick, and was a bit too airy for my liking, but it does do TC 'the best' out of my 3 (so far) TC mods.

 

[conanthewarrior]

All mods that will do temp control with ni200 will also work with titanium. Just subtract roughly 100°.
Also throwing out the evic VT or VT mini.
Don't worry about building so low. Like was already stated it will constantly drop wattage or joules. It won't put out a constant power. Besides, they're regulated devices which have safety features built in.

Ni200 or Titanium grade 1, the device senses the slight change in resistance when heated and calculates the temp based on that. Kanthal is a composite metal and isn't consistent enough to do this.

Do you know what 100F to celscius is? We are a weird country who uses a mixture of metric and imperial, we sell our meat and food By the KG And Gram, but tell our temperature in Celscuis and use MPH on our roads lol.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Do you know what 100F to celscius is? We are a weird country who uses a mixture of metric and imperial, we sell our meat and food By the KG And Gram, but tell our temperature in Celscuis and use MPH on our roads lol.

37.777°C so I'd go 37 or 38 tbh. It's not EXACTLY 100° (meaning the ni/ti difference) but it's very close.

 

[Jack Merridew]

Thanks for all the info! I'm glad I posted here before buying the mod. Right now, I'm looking at the IPV, but I only see the IPV 4S and IPV 3Li on the site I'm ordering from. Which is better?

 

[Jack Merridew]

Also I'm kind of confused. Should I target 0.1 when I build coils? How does that affect the vape? I know resistance will change as I vape, but it's kinda scary for someone who doesn't subohm.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Also I'm kind of confused. Should I target 0.1 when I build coils? How does that affect the vape? I know resistance will change as I vape, but it's kinda scary for someone who doesn't subohm.

Don't think of this as subohming. They are designed to take extremely low resistances safely, and wont draw more amps from your battery due to the way regulation works.

It needs to be a low resistance wire for the device to be able to detect minute changes in temperature. Standard Kanthal is much to high, and it just wouldn't work.

Using a TC build subohm is different to a kanthal subohm, as in you wont get hotter vapour, or bigger clouds, but when you up the temperature you do.

Yes, I would aim for 0.10 and below, as when temp increases if you make it too high, on one of my devices it can go past 0.3 and then TC no longer works, even after locking in the resistance, but as long as the coil is 0.10 and under it never does this.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Thanks for all the info! I'm glad I posted here before buying the mod. Right now, I'm looking at the IPV, but I only see the IPV 4S and IPV 3Li on the site I'm ordering from. Which is better?

Li all the way. Great mod.

 

[fq06]

Depends on the device, most will fire down to 0.05 ohms and those like to be built to 0.065 ohms to work the best.

Some only go down to 0.1ohms so build slightly higher than 0.1 (these are the minority)
Don't worry about the safety, thousands of people are using TC mods with builds below 0.1 and no one has blown up Just use a quality battery (25r, LG he2/4 to name a couple) and you should have no concerns.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Depends on the device, most will fire down to 0.05 ohms and those like to be built to 0.065 ohms to work the best.

Some only go down to 0.1ohms so build slightly higher than 0.1 (these are the minority)
Don't worry about the safety, thousands of people are using TC mods with builds below 0.1 and no one has blown up Just use a quality battery (25r, LG he2/4 to name a couple) and you should have no concerns.

I use 25R's and HG2's in mine, and have no problem at all. I even used the Smok app with my Xcube and it shows in real time amps being pulled and such, and it never went over 20, most of the time it was from 9 to 18 amps.

All mine fire down to 0.06 ohms, I haven't got one that can do 0.05, which mod is this? I only ask as I am due a new mod in 2 weeks (I am buying a mod a month for a year, as regulation takes place in may. If they become hard to get hold of, I will still have plenty to keep me going, plus who doesn't like a nice big collection of mods and RTAS, RDAS and batteries,Loads of wire and lovely tasting juices MMMM

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Also I'm kind of confused. Should I target 0.1 when I build coils? How does that affect the vape? I know resistance will change as I vape, but it's kinda scary for someone who doesn't subohm.

It's not necessary I'm almost certain the li fires down to 0.05 ohms but if it makes you feel safer sure shoot for 0.1 ohm. Again you're not pulling the same amperage you would say from a 0.1 ohm coil @50w as you are on a regular regulated device. The 50w is constantly decreased the closer to temp you get. And being a regulated device, there are built in safely features, you're good man! Btw, my technic for wrapping ni200 is wrap, stretch it out to space it then pinch the coil against the lip of your tool with your finger nail, perfect spacing

 

[Jack Merridew]

Alright so I'm gonna get two of those batteries : Samsung INR18650 25R 30A 2500mAh High Drain Battery .

As for the mod the choice will be Pioneer4You IPV 3 Li 165W with an Orchid V6 atty and some 28 gauge Ni200 ( I couldn't find tempered on my website)

How does that setup sound?

 

[Jack Merridew]

Darn, the IPV3 Li is out of stock. Is the IPV 4S decent?

 

[fq06]

I haven't used the 4s, maybe others that have will chime in but its a yihi chip, check. Will buck power down to 1v, check. Replaceable 18650 battery, check.
Sounds like it has the main requirements of a good mod, from there it's the form if you like it or not. The D2 looks like a good mod too, my buddy just ordered one.

Orchids rock, there are many variations besides v1-1000. The silverplay, goblin, a bunch of others that have built upon the orchid design and improved it with more air flow and deeper juice channels.

My favorite is still a cheap orchid mini from fasttech though the air holes do need to be drilled out to keep up with what the fat chimney can flow
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...hid-mini-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer

 

[conanthewarrior]

I order my tempered NI200 from ebay, I get it from greece. Takes a couple of days to get here, but their prices are super cheap and it works just as good as the stuff I have bought over here.

I also buy my kanthal from there, 100 Feet is like £4.40, no post and packaging either.

 

[fq06]

That's like lightening vapes here, no shipping charge. That's nice because it doesn't kill you to just order a small spool to try the next gauge up or down or Ti or whatever. You can be out the door for $6 instead of doubling the product cost with shipping.

 

[Jack Merridew]

IPV4s has a minimum of 0.12 ohms for temp control though. Isn't it a bit high? I'll definitely be checking the goblin reviews.

 

[NobleExcalibur]

I order my tempered NI200 from ebay, I get it from greece. Takes a couple of days to get here, but their prices are super cheap and it works just as good as the stuff I have bought over here.

I also buy my kanthal from there, 100 Feet is like £4.40, no post and packaging either.

When you use your NI 200 do you do anything to it once it's wrapped?

I've noticed mine has a strange taste for a while on a new build coil?

Also could you post a link to where you buy it? I bought 4 metres of kanthal today for £2!


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[fq06]

IPV4s has a minimum of 0.12 ohms for temp control though. Isn't it a bit high? I'll definitely be checking the goblin reviews.

Definitely check around here and do your homework, lots of people around here with a serious problem and have bought a majority of the mods available lol. You can get a lot of insight and buy right the 1st time.

Most of the sub tanks are up around 0.1 but that will be pretty high for a orchid build or something else that doesn't have a ton of room to build in with Ni, Ti maybe not.

 

[conanthewarrior]

When you use your NI 200 do you do anything to it once it's wrapped?

I've noticed mine has a strange taste for a while on a new build coil?

Also could you post a link to where you buy it? I bought 4 metres of kanthal today for £2!


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I don't notice a taste if I am honest, and I will PM you right now with where I get it (I am in the UK BTW, I do not know if postage will be free to USA or not)

EDIT: Looking at my ebay, I am really sorry but realise mine is a UK seller, it is because of the black and blue reel it comes on I thought it was the same seller. I will send you a link to the NI200 and the kanthal, two different sellers, one UK one in greece)

 

[NobleExcalibur]

Cheers mate. I'm in the uk too hence why I paid British for my kanthal yesterday lol

Are you meant to burn it or something before you vape with it? I had the same thing with my kanthal coil I made yesterday


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[conanthewarrior]

Cheers mate. I'm in the uk too hence why I paid British for my kanthal yesterday lol

Are you meant to burn it or something before you vape with it? I had the same thing with my kanthal coil I made yesterday


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Hi mate, as your in the UK you will be fine with it then . If I am honest, as long as it is well juiced up, it should taste fine. You could always do a few fires and not inhale it to eliminate the taste (with wet wicks of course) and are you using a dripper or a tank?I always do a few fires before I inhale anyway incase there is any machine oil or anything that needs extra burning off after the inital heating without a wick when I build it.

If you are using a tank maybe the horrible taste is that the wick hasn't had long enough to soak up juice, and you are getting a slightly burnt hit with Knathal?

 

[Jack Merridew]

When I build standard coils, I always use a lighter to get rid of machine oil before wrapping them. Is it safe to do the same with Ni 200?

 

[fq06]

A lighter shouldn't get the wire terribly hot but you dont want to get Ni too hot or it releases gasses or some shit like that.

That will probably also soften the wire and make it more unruly to wrap.

I wipe mine down with rubbing alcohol and then wrap.

 

[conanthewarrior]

When I build standard coils, I always use a lighter to get rid of machine oil before wrapping them. Is it safe to do the same with Ni 200?

I wouldn't. On your device I would do a quick 1-2 second dry burn, like you would to heat the coils to shape them with pliers. Go careful though, as the NI200 (Especially 30 gauge for dual coils) breaks easy when you do this, don't try and move the coil about when you do this. That should burn anything off, then wick it and wet the wick and do a few more fires, don't inhale yet if you are worried, then vape away!

That should work fine, and is what I do, plus the coils don't get too hot due to the temp control (I set it to 220C when I do the unwicked coil burn).

Its just a thing I do, you probably don't even have to do it to be honest.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

IPV4s has a minimum of 0.12 ohms for temp control though. Isn't it a bit high? I'll definitely be checking the goblin reviews.

Another reason to get the ipv li. That is a high resistance for temp control, doesn't give you any "room"

 

[CurlyxCracker]

When you use your NI 200 do you do anything to it once it's wrapped?

I've noticed mine has a strange taste for a while on a new build coil?

Also could you post a link to where you buy it? I bought 4 metres of kanthal today for £2!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No might want to wipe it with vinegar or lemon juice before you wrap. Idk if lightning vapes ships international but that's where I get all my wire except ti g1

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Cheers mate. I'm in the uk too hence why I paid British for my kanthal yesterday lol

Are you meant to burn it or something before you vape with it? I had the same thing with my kanthal coil I made yesterday


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Absolutely not! Space it wick it and go

 

[CurlyxCracker]

When I build standard coils, I always use a lighter to get rid of machine oil before wrapping them. Is it safe to do the same with Ni 200?

No

 

[NobleExcalibur]

I wouldn't use lemon or vinegar lol. I tried the burning bit and it didn't do anything so space and wick all the time from now on


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[CurlyxCracker]

I wouldn't use lemon or vinegar lol. I tried the burning bit and it didn't do anything so space and wick all the time from now on


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It's just used to remove any machine oil. You wipe it dry then. I do this for titanium builds frequently

 

[NobleExcalibur]

I'm not using titanium lol would do it if I was


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[CurlyxCracker]

I'm not using titanium lol would do it if I was


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Just a suggestion to remove any machine oil or what ever. Can use isopropyl too but be sure that's dry before use

 

[fq06]

I use 90% isopropyl on all wire, dries before you can even start coiling it. You know the people that pull that wire from huge 10,000 ft spools to package for us are not cleaning it and besides left over oil from producing the wire, I'm sure there's plenty of dirt/dust and who knows what else on that wire.

Then the only thing left on the wire after you coil it is some finger oil. I guess you could use a soft tooth brush to dip in some 90% isopropyl and brush the coil when you're all finished but I don't bother with it.